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☛ Official ☚ The Big & Dandy Storage Thread

I have a question...I would like to store my collection outside, there is deep snow where I live and I want to use it as a hiding place. Compounds go into thier own individual plastic ziplock bags (blotter in foil) labeled and air sucked out. Baggies go into opaque white prescription bottles. Silica dessicant in the bottles. All bottles go in a larger opaque airtight container. Bury in snow. I am concerned about fluctuations in temperature(-20f to+40f range is typical this time of year) causing condensation...any advice? Should I get a vacuum sealer?
 
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How good/bad option are ziplock bags for long term storage (months, years)? I'm mostly talking about MXE and 3-MeO-PCP HCl which both seem pretty stable (I have left a large amount of 3-MeO-PCP spread on a glass plate in the open air for over 24 hrs with no loss in potency). I've been thinking about getting some vials for ages, but tbh I'm a lazy fuck and quite pleased with the ziplocks so far.
 
I have quite a lot of mxe (afraid it will go illegal) in a few separate bags that are placed into one giant bag with a few of those O2 absorber packets (they come with food/shoes sometimes). ... Is this a sufficient method for long term storage? I plan on having this stash for well over 5 years ...

ok so I decided to go amber vials placed into a giant bag with O2 absorbers.. CHA CHING
 
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Bear in mind that oxygen absorbers require a little moisture to work.

I have a question...I would like to store my collection outside, there is deep snow where I live and I want to use it as a hiding place. Compounds go into thier own individual plastic ziplock bags (blotter in foil) labeled and air sucked out. Baggies go into opaque white prescription bottles. Silica dessicant in the bottles. All bottles go in a larger opaque airtight container. Bury in snow. I am concerned about fluctuations in temperature(-20f to+40f range is typical this time of year) causing condensation...any advice? Should I get a vacuum sealer?

Fluctuations wont 'be an issue and neither will condensation with silica. I think your method is probably overkill and unless they are in a locked place I think you're risking discovery.
 
Here is what i would do for long term storage:
1. Put the powder inside a 1/4 dram glass vial like this:
9109-2.jpg

2. Put the glass vial inside a vacuum bag with blue silica and oxygen absorbers and vacuum it! Blue silica turns pink when it absorbs moisture, so its possible to check if it`s still dry.
3. All that goes inside this box to keep curious people away (and to be cute too):
Leitz%20cd%20storage%201%20Drawer.jpg

4. All that in the freezer.

My question is: I think those vials are not hermetic, and even if they were, I don't like the idea of putting silica mixed with the powder, since blue silica doesn't come in packets, but loose in a big bottle. So i thought in just leave the vial`s lid a little loose, so that the dissecant outside the vial could dry-up the content inside it.

Any thoughts on that?
 
Personally I would just dry it out first if necessary, then seal it.

You can get really good "vial-o-file" or "cryobox" storage containers for 1 dram vials. 1 dram is about a gram of powder.
I do recommend lockable storage for anyone with children or anyone who hosts parties.
 
Quick question. I may be getting my hands on some crystal LSD soon and don't need to use all of it immediately. Would it be better to mix the whole lot up in solution and keep the unneeded stuff in a separate vial (in the freezer in a vacuum bag with silica), or would I be better to only mix the portion needed in the more immediate future and keep the rest in vial still as crystal (similarly in the freezer ect...). Thanks
 
I will be getting some sterile 10ml amber vials for DMT storage and would like to know the minimum EtOH % content to keep the DMT sterile for injection.
These are rubber stoppered injection vials and i'll be mixing the DMT to a strength of 200mg/ml...2 grams per bottle.
Any suggestions?
 
Sorry to ask again, but can anyone advise on whether it is better to store lsd in crystal form or in solution. My guess is solution, although it's mostly a gut feeling.
 
I think keeping it in crystal would be better, because there is less chance for it to react with stuff. Put it in a glass vial, or split it up into vials so you don't have to expose your whole stash every time you access it. Keep it dark and cold of course.

If you do use water make sure it's distilled/lab grade. But you probably knew that.

I'm jealous btw.
 
Just throwing out a bunch of data points based on the experience of my group of friends: Methoxetamine, kept for 3 years in the freezer at -20'C/4'F in glass vials produced no noticable deterioration. Cubensis shrooms kept under the same conditions for 12 years were still potent also. LSD blotter for 15 years under the same conditions and likewise, 2C-B for 20 years - no difference in potency noticed. Prepared ayahuasca (the brewed tea), bottled cactus snot and cut fresh Trichocereus stars frozen solid in the freezer for a year all were still potent. Dried Wavy Caps shrooms, in a plastic supplement pills jar with a snap-on lid and a pack of silica gel, kept in the dark at room temperature for 3 years, retained at least 2/3 of its potency.
 
I know this is PD but since OD doesn't appear to have an equivalent thread (unless my search skills have failed me) I'm going to ask:

I accidentally exposed a large amount of benzodiazepines to large amounts of heat and moisture (unsealed in a hotboxed shower room while the shower was going for 30+ minutes) - most of the tablets have taken on a crumbly consistency and the bags have stained with the colour of the benzodiazepines in question, specifically I'm referring to Pyrazolam, Clonazepam, and Nifoxipam (3-hydroxy-desmethylflunitrazepam). I didn't really think about it at the time because as far as I was aware benzodiazepines were incredibly stable like phenethylamine psychedelics.

However I was able to take 25 tablets the other day with only minimal effects (and that was in combination with alcohol) when only a week or two ago one or two was doing it for me and I'm worried that I destroyed the active components - is this likely what happened or is tolerance simply to blame?

Normally I'd have blamed tolerance quicker than I'd have blamed the active ingredients degrading but I've taken these same compounds along with other benzos in high doses for months in the past with very little raise in tolerance at all.
 
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Sorry, jesus, dont have an answer to your question, but i have another question related to yours =D!
Right now i have access to good benzos, but later i might not have. Since i use only very sporadically(to kill a stimulation), i would like to make some long term storage...
Would it be better to freeze the pills in a vacuum sealed bag, protected from light, or should i just keep it in the original package?
 
Benzos are pretty stable, especially in pills. I would be shocked if 40*C even with high humidity caused problems. For long term storage a cupboard is fine.
 
Using an inert atmosphere was covered, but sources of inert gas were inhibiting. Sealed potato chip bags contain dry nitrogen. The bags are filled with nitrogen as this limits oxidization of the oils used and prevents moisture from making the chips go stale.

www.google.de/search?q=potato+chip+bag+nitrogen

T.I.L. Sealed potato chip bags are a source of inert gas.
 
LSD blotter for 15 years under the same conditions and likewise.

Blotter in a glass bottle in the freezer for 15 years? No damage to the blotter? No ice on the inside of the glass bottle affecting the paper?
 
OK so from everything Ive read. Ive come up for this for storing my 4-sub tryptamines long term, 5- till i die years.
vaccum seal 1G with a silica pack , place that in the smallest dram vial I can fit it in, fill dram vial with argon and also with a silica pack.vaccum seal the vial and then throw that in the freezer.

Now I was wanting to know even with a really ambitious storage method like above. Are some chems just prone to breaking down (primarily speaking about 4 sub tryptamines) to the point that even with the storage method I outlined, would expecting them to be near tip top shape 20 years down the line ridiculous?
Im not worried about my lysergamides because I dont expect to store them more then 10 years and Ive read DOC is insanley stable and I dont have many other Phens. benzos ive eaten 8 year old pills just out of a blister pack so no worries storing them. What im most worried about is the 4 substituted tryptamines.
 
I would expect them to store just fine in such conditions, probably even overkill. I presume you aren't planning to open them for all this time?
 
My Storage Setup

MY STORAGE SETUP.

So guys, I have been pondering an hypothetical scenario:
You want to store say.. 25 hits worth of blotter for 40 years.
This is my proposal (of course you can store several more in the same setup)

beF8ucul.jpg


--------------
Analyze it a bit
________

1.The Glass Jar is Airtight and WON'T LET AIR IN THROUGH ITS GLASS.
2. Silica Beads will absorb humidity if water condensates inside after someone opens the jar without letting it reach Room Temperature after taking it out of the Freezer. They also change colour if they are saturated with water.
3. Thick "Mylar"Aluminized Ziploc. The dense plastic plus the layer of aluminum make this bag airtight for 2-3 years before it lets in a couple ml of oxygen in.
4. Thinner and a bit flimsier "Mylar" Ziploc. This bag could let 1ml of oxygen in after a year.
5. Regular street drugs clear plastic baggie, just big enough to hold 25 hits plus some space at the bottom. This bag has selective permeability, it will let small molecules through in a matter of hours, see:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wO1yq6YTJDI
6. Aluminium fit snugly around the blotter.
---------------

The idea of storage is to buffer as much oxygen and Humidity as possible.
The aluminum foil is enough to block light and the freezer cold enough to slow chemical reactions 8 times slower than room temperature. (double the time for a reaction to take place per every 10 degrees Celsius, I reckon the hypothetical minifridge will freeze at around -6 degrees [30 degrees under room temperatura], a regular freezer goes -18degrees [42 degrees under RT], which would be 16 times slower a reaction)
The thing is very little oxygen is needed to degrade very little LSD (micrograms after all).

----------------

ENTER X, Y and Z.

Hence I am pondering the use of OXYGEN ABSORBERS (X&Y) and SILICA GEL (Z) within the Mylar Bags. You can see the places in the image.
1. My OxySorb sachets are 100cc, meaning they will absorb 100ml of Oxygen, that is the oxygen of 500ml of air (oxygen is about 20% of air).
The air left in the ziplocks will be around 30ml which make these packets over-qualified which is not a bad thing, except for a little detail, which I will mention bellow.
2. My Silica Gel comes in orange beads (I have 40grams to dispose of) and 1/2 grams sachets (I have 20 of those).
Silica Gel absorbs 40% of its weight in water.

-----------------

Rationale:
Apparently OxygenAbsorbers carry their own amount of water in them, just enough to start the chemical oxidation of the iron in the packets. Originally they needed 65% Relative Humidity in the air to react, but now they carry their own humidity.

X and Y would absorb whatever oxygen slips in during the years.
Provided these OXYSORB sachets have some water in them, putting them in direct contact with the air in the final room where the blotter is, would rise humidity in unknown quantities.

I reckon the water in them is less than 1/8 of the weight of the sachet, but I will consider it 1/4 just to be safe (it could be as low as 1/20 of the total weight of the sachet, I know iron rusts with around 60% Relative Humidity, which in a sachet could be as low as a single drop of water).
So my idea to use the oxysorbs safely without rising humidity in the blotter is to buffer humidity within the clear baggie (Z).
Silica Gel saturates in a matter of hours (less than 10) according to a paper I found yesterday but cannot find again. Of course it saturates readily in abundant high humidity, if there is low humidity to begin with it will dry the space without saturating.
Oxysorb packets will rust completely if exposed to an open room in about 4 hours.

-----------------------------

My Theory:

If I put OxySorbs in X and Y and Silica Gel in Z, in the equivalent weight of the OxySorb sachet, then I can leave the whole jar at room temperature for a day so the OxySorb sachets deplete the oxygen in the Ziplocs, and after the Oxygen is gone (The OxySorb packets will have rusted to less than 10% of their capacity) they will still have humidity in them.
Then I can count on the Silica in Z to absorb whatever humidity is left after the oxygen in it is taken out by sachet Y.

I am sure there are still some loose ends there. I reckon though that the buffer of the clear ziploc will allow sachet Y to absorb all the oxygen before silica Z start drying sachet Y.
I think the safest bet is to go Overkill with Silica Z (1:1 the weight of sachet Y) just in case.


WHAT DO YOU THINK?
Will it last 40 years?
 
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Right now my stuff is double bagged, within a third bigger baggie, inside a cardboard box, inside an old smartphone box, wrapped in a sleeve to keep the box closed, in a drawer that is in a cold place with no light. Is this a decent way to store it? How can I improve it? Unfortunately putting them in the refrigerator/freezer is not an option. I bought these quarter dram amber vials the other day to carry smaller amounts of my collection, but would I be better off transferring all the contents into these vials? I know plastic bags aren't the best, but I cant imagine any air/condensation getting into my stash as it is and im afraid of losing a few precious milligrams during the transfer process.

MY STORAGE SETUP.
WHAT DO YOU THINK?
Will it last 40 years?

God damn.
 
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