sekio
Bluelight Crew
Toss and wash? Dissolve it in alcohol and hold it under your tongue for a faster onset.
-
CD Moderators: someguyontheinternet
[Mega]Synthetic Cannabinoid Discussion
- Thread starter Tryptamine*Dreamer
- Start date
Hey!
If you want to know how to flavour your own herbs with synthetics here is a recipe. I guess it is not illegal to tell someone how it works...
(All I tell you is self tested and made by myself. You could use for example an other solvent and other herbs. That is in your hand. I tested some and tell you the easiest, cheapest und fastest way!)
You need:
1.
A substrat, I mean any herb. For example Damiana, Catnip(if you like the mint-taste), Tobacco, or (I dont know where you are from, but when you are from Germany, Austria or Switzerland: "KNASTER" is very useful! Especially if you arent someone who smokes nicotine!, if you arent from these countries: ) a herbmix/blend often purchased by headshops or the internet, for persons who won't mix their Weed/Cannabinoid with nicotine-contending tobacco. ---->25-30g would be enough.
2. A synthetic Cannabinoid, JWHs are more useful then the CPs and WINs (why? CPs and WINs are harder to dosage + CPs are instable!)
For a good blend, similar to good Weed, I would take:
250mg of JWH-073 ( A5 B6 )
200mg of JWH-018 ( A7 B8 )
100mg of JWH-122 ( A9 B9 )
150mg of JWH-250 ( A2 B7 )
130mg of JWH-200 ( A2 B8 )
150mg of JWH-081 ( A5 B7 )
A = Duration of Action
B = Strengh of the Herb Mix
1 is SHORT and LOW --- 10 is LONG and STRONG!
3.
Next you need Acetone. Acetone is easy to get and cheap. You could use Diethylether, Trichlormethane and Benzine as well, but Acetone is the best, cheapest and is very fast evaporated without any residue.
50ml is the amount of the solvent.
You take the Cannabinoid, do it mix with the acetone in a small glass/chemical-resistant plastic bottle and shake it. It will solute then.
Than you take the "blend" and do it i a soup-plate http://www.ludgerusbrunnen.de/images/suppenteller.jpg .
Do that acetone-cannabinoid-mixture all over the herb and mix it with your thump and forefinger very fastly (if you arent very sensitive to solves!) Hurry up in this process, maximumly 15seconds and wash immediatly your hands.
Let the plate stand on a place, where it doesn't matter, that it smells after acetone (open window!). A radiator will be perfect for fast evaporating !!!
After some Minutes till maximumly 24hours you have your own flavoured blend Mix, which is (approximately!) 20-35 Joints (if you used 25-30g of blend mix!).
I take the blend after evaporating in an tabacco package, where I store it together with 3-5 apple/potatostick in the size of a cigarette filter. I do this because acetone makes your herb fart-dry, that its often getting to powder when I make a Joint. After 24hours you can take the fruit-sticks out, so your blend is ready.
When you do this at first time, make it with 1/10 of all the amounts...
5ml acetone, with 3-4g blend and for example 25-30mg of JWH-073!!! Not more, because you dont have practise and the amount is not so much if you do something wrong!!!
Have fun.
If you want to know how to flavour your own herbs with synthetics here is a recipe. I guess it is not illegal to tell someone how it works...
(All I tell you is self tested and made by myself. You could use for example an other solvent and other herbs. That is in your hand. I tested some and tell you the easiest, cheapest und fastest way!)
You need:
1.
A substrat, I mean any herb. For example Damiana, Catnip(if you like the mint-taste), Tobacco, or (I dont know where you are from, but when you are from Germany, Austria or Switzerland: "KNASTER" is very useful! Especially if you arent someone who smokes nicotine!, if you arent from these countries: ) a herbmix/blend often purchased by headshops or the internet, for persons who won't mix their Weed/Cannabinoid with nicotine-contending tobacco. ---->25-30g would be enough.
2. A synthetic Cannabinoid, JWHs are more useful then the CPs and WINs (why? CPs and WINs are harder to dosage + CPs are instable!)
For a good blend, similar to good Weed, I would take:
250mg of JWH-073 ( A5 B6 )
200mg of JWH-018 ( A7 B8 )
100mg of JWH-122 ( A9 B9 )
150mg of JWH-250 ( A2 B7 )
130mg of JWH-200 ( A2 B8 )
150mg of JWH-081 ( A5 B7 )
A = Duration of Action
B = Strengh of the Herb Mix
1 is SHORT and LOW --- 10 is LONG and STRONG!
3.
Next you need Acetone. Acetone is easy to get and cheap. You could use Diethylether, Trichlormethane and Benzine as well, but Acetone is the best, cheapest and is very fast evaporated without any residue.
50ml is the amount of the solvent.
You take the Cannabinoid, do it mix with the acetone in a small glass/chemical-resistant plastic bottle and shake it. It will solute then.
Than you take the "blend" and do it i a soup-plate http://www.ludgerusbrunnen.de/images/suppenteller.jpg .
Do that acetone-cannabinoid-mixture all over the herb and mix it with your thump and forefinger very fastly (if you arent very sensitive to solves!) Hurry up in this process, maximumly 15seconds and wash immediatly your hands.
Let the plate stand on a place, where it doesn't matter, that it smells after acetone (open window!). A radiator will be perfect for fast evaporating !!!
After some Minutes till maximumly 24hours you have your own flavoured blend Mix, which is (approximately!) 20-35 Joints (if you used 25-30g of blend mix!).
I take the blend after evaporating in an tabacco package, where I store it together with 3-5 apple/potatostick in the size of a cigarette filter. I do this because acetone makes your herb fart-dry, that its often getting to powder when I make a Joint. After 24hours you can take the fruit-sticks out, so your blend is ready.
When you do this at first time, make it with 1/10 of all the amounts...
5ml acetone, with 3-4g blend and for example 25-30mg of JWH-073!!! Not more, because you dont have practise and the amount is not so much if you do something wrong!!!
Have fun.
Last edited:
eatface4life
Greenlighter
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2010
- Messages
- 39
I just roll it in a joint of dank/damiana/or tobacco and it all works fine without a mg scale, (YMMV) for me and it works amazing. Awesome to mix with bud but only in small amounts. Plus this shit will make you fall in love with Gravity bongs. the sensation is unreal.
Last edited:
Chainer
Bluelighter
merged into MEGA synthetic thread
Candy_Raver
Bluelighter
Anyone have any experience or planning to try JWH-019? That one is pretty new, and havn't read much about the experience on that JWH.
-PLUR
-PLUR
Why no Synthetic Cannabinoid Forum here?
Man, is there some animosity here for synthetic cannabinoids? I mean synthetics are much more complicated than weed -- and forcing all synthetic topics into one "mega thread" just screams "go-away!".
Yet, to help "prevent harm" we need to discuss these things in an orderly way. The mega thread is just an insult to this vital topic
Man, is there some animosity here for synthetic cannabinoids? I mean synthetics are much more complicated than weed -- and forcing all synthetic topics into one "mega thread" just screams "go-away!".
Yet, to help "prevent harm" we need to discuss these things in an orderly way. The mega thread is just an insult to this vital topic
embryonic
Greenlighter
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2010
- Messages
- 37
I had a little -073 "overdose" from a little chunk and powder vaporized in a vape bulb first thing this morning and it was quite odd. Pretty visually and enlightened psychedelic state actually, rather than the scary aural hallucinations I used to get from -018. Much easier to eyeball IMO. I only needed to have ~.35mg clonazepam to get rid of the short-lived anxiety. Not nearly as panic-inducing as -018 and I have quite the cannabinoid tolerance due to smoking ganja daily. I had to jump on the -073 bandwagon because it's gonna be banned pretty damn soon so I'll have to flush what I don't keep 
:slightly off topic: Luckily for me, I get benzos scripted. Temazepam really keeps the anxiety attacks/all night fiending at bay, but those are a nasty addiction I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy.
:slightly off topic: Luckily for me, I get benzos scripted. Temazepam really keeps the anxiety attacks/all night fiending at bay, but those are a nasty addiction I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy.
I found a someone that has decalin jwh?
Anyone know anything about that? I originally ordered a small amount of jwh-018 from there, and it seemed legit and pure. I am just wondering what decalin jwh means? I just ordered some after he said his batch was most similar to 073.
Anyone know anything about that? I originally ordered a small amount of jwh-018 from there, and it seemed legit and pure. I am just wondering what decalin jwh means? I just ordered some after he said his batch was most similar to 073.
Presumably JWH-018 with a decalin ring instead of the naptha ring (no double bonds)
If 1) he's not making shit up and lying about what he has and 2) "decalin JWH-018" is active, that's pretty damned surprising.
A decalin group is a lot bigger, way the hell bulkier, and all floppy, vs naptha being planar... For such a sensitive area of the molecule (addition of an ethyl to the side of the napthyl ring of 018 gives 210, increasing potency by a factor of ~20), switching napthyl moiety for decalinyl (?) moiety and retaining about the same potency would be quite a surprise
If 1) he's not making shit up and lying about what he has and 2) "decalin JWH-018" is active, that's pretty damned surprising.
A decalin group is a lot bigger, way the hell bulkier, and all floppy, vs naptha being planar... For such a sensitive area of the molecule (addition of an ethyl to the side of the napthyl ring of 018 gives 210, increasing potency by a factor of ~20), switching napthyl moiety for decalinyl (?) moiety and retaining about the same potency would be quite a surprise
purple_cloud
Bluelight Crew
We have a thread for this, I'm going to merge it because it got answered and perhaps someone has the same question elsewhere.
stuckinaloop
Bluelighter
I think 19 is very forgiving compared to 18
dionysus69
Greenlighter
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2010
- Messages
- 1
First off, many thanks to Chainer for all the knowledge you've shared; I've made good use of it.
I'm going to detail my method of creation as it does NOT use acetone. We were wary of using acetone because it just seems like a terrible idea. Especially as I tend to be impatient and do not want to ever smoke it. It also meant we were not limited in out choice of spray bottle and were able to use one with a very fine mist. Anyways, here goes...
Before we started we got the following supplies:
1. Herb - damiana and peppermint
2. Shot glass or small boiling flask
3. Low temp hot plate - we picked up a candle warmer from a thrift shop, but I'm pretty sure even a coffee cup warmer would be sufficient
4. Grain alcohol - we used Everclear, but any brand will work
5. Spray bottle - I actually bought a bottle of tobacco flavoring spray and just dumped the contents, size of the spray bottle is 30ml
6. Metal thermometer - one used to check meat temp is ideal
And directions:
1. We mixed 10g of damiana with 5g of peppermint leaf (gives a nice menthol flavoring and really cuts the harshness of the damiana)
2. Pour 20-25ml of everclear into a shot glass and add your active ingredient. Don't do more than 0.5g at a time, and I found 1/3g is about the best. Just be aware you may need to redose.
3. Place the shotglass on the hot plate and take it up to 140-160 degrees F. Stir ocassionally while heating, but when it hits the target temp the powder just disapears. Okay, that might be a slight understatement, but, less than 5 min of stiring once you hit the target temp.
4. Pour liquid into spray bottle, spread your herbs out in a thin layer and spray 1/3 of the bottle onto the herb. Try to spray evenly and not miss any spots.
5. At this point I like to let everything dry. Drying only takes about 10 min as everclear evaporates extremely fast. Using a fan or light would likely speed things along a bit.
6. Throw on a rubber/latex glove (no powder) and mix the herbs around and then respread them into a thin layer.
7. Spray the next 1/3 of the bottle and again wait for it to dry.
8. Again mix the herbs around and again respread and then spray the last of the bottle. If there is any left in the bottle feel free to dump it onto the herb. If you do end up dumping some on, then I would don a glove and mix by hand. Otherwise just leave it. The less you handle the damp herb, the more active ingredient is left on it.
9. Once it dries take a bowl pack and try it out for potency. Redose as needed. I used practically a full gram of jwh-250 for the last batch I made, but I also prefer my shit strong. I'd rather smoke one bowl than two or three. In college, the guy I bought weed from was growing it at 24% THC; just so you have a point of reference.
It is definitely a little more work to set up, and only for those who are 21 or older and live in states that sell grain. However, total time is significantly less (you can be smoking less than an hour after you start making), you don't have to worry about spray bottles, and you will never, ever, ever have to worry about smoking acetone.
I found directions on how to prepare it for an electronic cig. If that goes well I'll update.
I'm going to detail my method of creation as it does NOT use acetone. We were wary of using acetone because it just seems like a terrible idea. Especially as I tend to be impatient and do not want to ever smoke it. It also meant we were not limited in out choice of spray bottle and were able to use one with a very fine mist. Anyways, here goes...
Before we started we got the following supplies:
1. Herb - damiana and peppermint
2. Shot glass or small boiling flask
3. Low temp hot plate - we picked up a candle warmer from a thrift shop, but I'm pretty sure even a coffee cup warmer would be sufficient
4. Grain alcohol - we used Everclear, but any brand will work
5. Spray bottle - I actually bought a bottle of tobacco flavoring spray and just dumped the contents, size of the spray bottle is 30ml
6. Metal thermometer - one used to check meat temp is ideal
And directions:
1. We mixed 10g of damiana with 5g of peppermint leaf (gives a nice menthol flavoring and really cuts the harshness of the damiana)
2. Pour 20-25ml of everclear into a shot glass and add your active ingredient. Don't do more than 0.5g at a time, and I found 1/3g is about the best. Just be aware you may need to redose.
3. Place the shotglass on the hot plate and take it up to 140-160 degrees F. Stir ocassionally while heating, but when it hits the target temp the powder just disapears. Okay, that might be a slight understatement, but, less than 5 min of stiring once you hit the target temp.
4. Pour liquid into spray bottle, spread your herbs out in a thin layer and spray 1/3 of the bottle onto the herb. Try to spray evenly and not miss any spots.
5. At this point I like to let everything dry. Drying only takes about 10 min as everclear evaporates extremely fast. Using a fan or light would likely speed things along a bit.
6. Throw on a rubber/latex glove (no powder) and mix the herbs around and then respread them into a thin layer.
7. Spray the next 1/3 of the bottle and again wait for it to dry.
8. Again mix the herbs around and again respread and then spray the last of the bottle. If there is any left in the bottle feel free to dump it onto the herb. If you do end up dumping some on, then I would don a glove and mix by hand. Otherwise just leave it. The less you handle the damp herb, the more active ingredient is left on it.
9. Once it dries take a bowl pack and try it out for potency. Redose as needed. I used practically a full gram of jwh-250 for the last batch I made, but I also prefer my shit strong. I'd rather smoke one bowl than two or three. In college, the guy I bought weed from was growing it at 24% THC; just so you have a point of reference.
It is definitely a little more work to set up, and only for those who are 21 or older and live in states that sell grain. However, total time is significantly less (you can be smoking less than an hour after you start making), you don't have to worry about spray bottles, and you will never, ever, ever have to worry about smoking acetone.
I found directions on how to prepare it for an electronic cig. If that goes well I'll update.
good...a little too good
I used to sprinkle it on a bowl every now and again. I used to just eyeball it and wait between each puff too make sure that I didn't end up with the fear. I liked it, pretty much only did it when i couldn't find Hash. I stopped doing it because it gave my gf the spins and she ralphed so we don't do it anymore. (you really have to pace yourself because with weed you don't get sick, JWH is a whole new Ballgame)
I used to sprinkle it on a bowl every now and again. I used to just eyeball it and wait between each puff too make sure that I didn't end up with the fear. I liked it, pretty much only did it when i couldn't find Hash. I stopped doing it because it gave my gf the spins and she ralphed so we don't do it anymore. (you really have to pace yourself because with weed you don't get sick, JWH is a whole new Ballgame)
david david
Greenlighter
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2010
- Messages
- 20
can anyone possibly PM me with a link to get the un-denatured acetone?
dumbstruck
Bluelighter
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2010
- Messages
- 58
Simple, Solvent Free Cleaning Method for Impure JWH-018/073/most but 250
The following is a solvent free method of cleaning naphthalene and naphthalene related impurities out of all kinds of JWH containing a naphthoyl moiety -- that is almost all of them except JWH-250. This is the most prevalent impurity in these JWHs and is a known carcinogenic. If your JWH smells like mothballs, this is a naphthalene impurity and you really should clean it.
The very last step in the synthesis of most of the JWHs except 250 involves the addition of the naphthoyl moiety. Naphthalene is a white, flakey, and carcinogenic substance. Due to JWH-018 being a notoriously simple synthesis and highly profitable, there are many sub-par chemists producing for the market. If the chemist did not explicitly wash out the remaining unreacted naphthalene, it will be left in your product. If your JWH smells noxious (or musty or like chemicals or like solvents) in any significant manner, then this should help clear it up with very little loss of actual product. Many thanks go to Opiyum on the Nexus for testing the procedure and taking pictures along the way.
JWH-018 melts between 60 and 62 degrees Celsius. Naphthalene melts at slightly over 80 degrees Celsius. Naphthalene is fairly volatile and will readily evaporate upon bringing its' temperature up above the melting point. The simplest method to accomplish this without risk of burning or vaporizing the JWH-018 is to use a double boiler. To make a double boiler you simply place a dish half submerged in a boiling pot of water -- this is so the top dish cannot exceed 100 degrees Celsius. You may need to line the pan with a dish towel or use a chopstick or something to hold the dish in place. We will only be leaving the JWH over heat for a couple minutes, so there is no time for significant degradation or vaporization to occur.
A few words on JWH-018. My understanding is that in it's purest, raw form, JWH-018 is actually a brownish powder -- much like cocoa powder. It changes color radically after undergoing a small amount of oxidation. This changes it to an off white / pale yellow. Pure JWH-018 is a slightly gummy material (like THC). This means that if you have non-gummy, brilliantly white reasonably sized crystals, then these are not pure -- they have been cut or bleached to become that way. From what I read two of the largest domestic suppliers were HPLC tested and found to contain food grade starch, in quantities up to 10%. Please note the raw form appearance and common cut data come from a single source, but one that I believe to be reputable -- so take that as you will. The purest JWH on the market being off white / pale yellow and slighty gummy, however, is fact. Pure JWH-018 has very little smell -- what smell there is comes from oxidation.
1. 500 mg of very badly smelling (of mothballs) JWH-018 was heated on a pyrex dish in a double boiler.
2. The JWH melted and was spread out with a tooth pick. It was stirred occasionally for one to two minutes.
3. Dish removed from heat and set on table to cool. The JWH resolidified in under ten minutes, looking identical to when molten. 476 mg of
odorless JWH-018 was scraped up with a razor blade -- the gummy material formed a clearish ball.
4. This ball was put in an air/moisture tight container and placed into the freezer. About an hour later (20 or 30 minutes should work) it was taken out and put into a mortar and pestle. Following picture is taken after a single light crush.
5?. To prevent the powder from sticking to itself as it warms up it may be necessary to spread it out on a flat surface. Once at room temperature it will act as normal, pure (slightly oxidized, which is good!) JWH.
If one has the freezer space and the ability to moisture proof the pyrex dish could be placed directly in the freezer. I suspect scraping it up with a razor blade this way would not require a crushing to get powder. The color of the JWH did not change, but the smell is entirely gone. The consistency changed from a fine talcum to a flakier but free flowing powder. It could be reduced back to extremely fine if wanted, but was undesirable in this case.
edit: Odds + Additions:
One can proceed directly after step 2 to dissolving in acetone and infusing into leaves.
The amount of water boiled is inconsequential to the procedure -- the glass dish simply has to be in contact with the hot water for a couple minutes so use enough so that it doesn't boil away so quickly.
- Alternative (simpler?) methods of making a double boiler.
A shallow wide pan can be used so that no balancing on the rim is necessary. The glass dish can break if in direct contact with the bottom of the pan through conduction -- to solve this a hand towel or two can be placed between the pan and the dish. The dish only needs to be submerged very slightly, enough so that the bottom is in contact with the water. No balancing necessary.
Another simple method is to substitute the pyrex dish and simply use a shot glass resting on a dish towel that is lining a shallow pan. Like the above alternative method but using a shot glass. Primary disadvantage being unable to effectively scrape after melted and cooled. However if infusion into leaves is the desired goal one can go directly from cooling to dissolving in acetone and application to leaves. Another potential disadvantage is stability -- a strongly rolling boil can potentially cause the shot glass to tip over.
The following is a solvent free method of cleaning naphthalene and naphthalene related impurities out of all kinds of JWH containing a naphthoyl moiety -- that is almost all of them except JWH-250. This is the most prevalent impurity in these JWHs and is a known carcinogenic. If your JWH smells like mothballs, this is a naphthalene impurity and you really should clean it.
The very last step in the synthesis of most of the JWHs except 250 involves the addition of the naphthoyl moiety. Naphthalene is a white, flakey, and carcinogenic substance. Due to JWH-018 being a notoriously simple synthesis and highly profitable, there are many sub-par chemists producing for the market. If the chemist did not explicitly wash out the remaining unreacted naphthalene, it will be left in your product. If your JWH smells noxious (or musty or like chemicals or like solvents) in any significant manner, then this should help clear it up with very little loss of actual product. Many thanks go to Opiyum on the Nexus for testing the procedure and taking pictures along the way.
JWH-018 melts between 60 and 62 degrees Celsius. Naphthalene melts at slightly over 80 degrees Celsius. Naphthalene is fairly volatile and will readily evaporate upon bringing its' temperature up above the melting point. The simplest method to accomplish this without risk of burning or vaporizing the JWH-018 is to use a double boiler. To make a double boiler you simply place a dish half submerged in a boiling pot of water -- this is so the top dish cannot exceed 100 degrees Celsius. You may need to line the pan with a dish towel or use a chopstick or something to hold the dish in place. We will only be leaving the JWH over heat for a couple minutes, so there is no time for significant degradation or vaporization to occur.
A few words on JWH-018. My understanding is that in it's purest, raw form, JWH-018 is actually a brownish powder -- much like cocoa powder. It changes color radically after undergoing a small amount of oxidation. This changes it to an off white / pale yellow. Pure JWH-018 is a slightly gummy material (like THC). This means that if you have non-gummy, brilliantly white reasonably sized crystals, then these are not pure -- they have been cut or bleached to become that way. From what I read two of the largest domestic suppliers were HPLC tested and found to contain food grade starch, in quantities up to 10%. Please note the raw form appearance and common cut data come from a single source, but one that I believe to be reputable -- so take that as you will. The purest JWH on the market being off white / pale yellow and slighty gummy, however, is fact. Pure JWH-018 has very little smell -- what smell there is comes from oxidation.
1. 500 mg of very badly smelling (of mothballs) JWH-018 was heated on a pyrex dish in a double boiler.
2. The JWH melted and was spread out with a tooth pick. It was stirred occasionally for one to two minutes.
3. Dish removed from heat and set on table to cool. The JWH resolidified in under ten minutes, looking identical to when molten. 476 mg of
odorless JWH-018 was scraped up with a razor blade -- the gummy material formed a clearish ball.
4. This ball was put in an air/moisture tight container and placed into the freezer. About an hour later (20 or 30 minutes should work) it was taken out and put into a mortar and pestle. Following picture is taken after a single light crush.
5?. To prevent the powder from sticking to itself as it warms up it may be necessary to spread it out on a flat surface. Once at room temperature it will act as normal, pure (slightly oxidized, which is good!) JWH.
If one has the freezer space and the ability to moisture proof the pyrex dish could be placed directly in the freezer. I suspect scraping it up with a razor blade this way would not require a crushing to get powder. The color of the JWH did not change, but the smell is entirely gone. The consistency changed from a fine talcum to a flakier but free flowing powder. It could be reduced back to extremely fine if wanted, but was undesirable in this case.
edit: Odds + Additions:
One can proceed directly after step 2 to dissolving in acetone and infusing into leaves.
The amount of water boiled is inconsequential to the procedure -- the glass dish simply has to be in contact with the hot water for a couple minutes so use enough so that it doesn't boil away so quickly.
- Alternative (simpler?) methods of making a double boiler.
A shallow wide pan can be used so that no balancing on the rim is necessary. The glass dish can break if in direct contact with the bottom of the pan through conduction -- to solve this a hand towel or two can be placed between the pan and the dish. The dish only needs to be submerged very slightly, enough so that the bottom is in contact with the water. No balancing necessary.
Another simple method is to substitute the pyrex dish and simply use a shot glass resting on a dish towel that is lining a shallow pan. Like the above alternative method but using a shot glass. Primary disadvantage being unable to effectively scrape after melted and cooled. However if infusion into leaves is the desired goal one can go directly from cooling to dissolving in acetone and application to leaves. Another potential disadvantage is stability -- a strongly rolling boil can potentially cause the shot glass to tip over.
Last edited:
dumbstruck
Bluelighter
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2010
- Messages
- 58
Man, is there some animosity here for synthetic cannabinoids? I mean synthetics are much more complicated than weed -- and forcing all synthetic topics into one "mega thread" just screams "go-away!".
Yet, to help "prevent harm" we need to discuss these things in an orderly way. The mega thread is just an insult to this vital topic
Seconded. I count five threads, on the first page, on k2 or JWH that have not been forcibly merged into this thread. I was rather hoping my guide above could be found through a search and help someone. It will accomplish no such thing here.
If anyone can recommend a place where this will be posted and potentially help people, please PM me.
Chainer
Bluelighter
Man, is there some animosity here for synthetic cannabinoids? I mean synthetics are much more complicated than weed -- and forcing all synthetic topics into one "mega thread" just screams "go-away!".
Yet, to help "prevent harm" we need to discuss these things in an orderly way. The mega thread is just an insult to this vital topic
You clearly have not read very much into this thread. It's filled to the brim with information provided by several intelligent minds. Hell, I've put up a few videos on purifying and binding JWH-018, 250, 200, 073, 81, and several non-JWH synthetics.
As of right now, this thread *only* covers synthetic cannaboids, NOT all RCs, so no, this is not to broad.
This is the place, and I have already posted a guide very similar to yours in this thread already. Not to say you wasted your time, but the info was already available to those who wanted it and looked well enough
Any questions regarding these synthetics gets direct to this thread, where 9 times out of 10, it has already been answered here.
Chainer
Bluelighter
^ That said, I'm not saying I am closed off to improvements. Currently, I have plans for the next thread (when this one hits 1k) to have a sub-directory to make the mega thread easier to navigate on the first page.
The perfect solution could be an entire forum dedicated to *all* RCs, but as it stands, this is not the case, nor is it in my hands to make such a thing happen. So, we'll make the best of what we've got, and for this exact second, it's this thread. In the further, it will be easier to navigate and more user-friendly.
The perfect solution could be an entire forum dedicated to *all* RCs, but as it stands, this is not the case, nor is it in my hands to make such a thing happen. So, we'll make the best of what we've got, and for this exact second, it's this thread. In the further, it will be easier to navigate and more user-friendly.