The Do-It-Yourself Tool Shed Thread vs Duct Tape Fixes EVERYTHING

[hobhead]

all house paint is not equal. in the US sherman williams is the brand that most professionals use . i learned from them that 'you get what you pay for' rings true in house paint.

before i learned the above lessons, i used a house brand from builder's supply store and even though it claimed one coat coverage, i had to roll in on more than once. the store did stand behind the stuff and the additional cans needed for coverage were on them. labor was on me of course.

 

[felix]

What design of bench did you go for then?

this is it:

i'm thinking about replacing the blue box with another wooden leg.

all the timber is 144 x 44, so it weighs a ton.

 

[tambourine-man]

Looks great! What wood are you working with? If it's a garden bench, what are you preserving the wood with?

 

[hobhead]

it looks to be douglas fir . just common 2 x stock, 4ss. why 2 by lumber ? will weigh plenty as you said and where is the need ?

 

[addictivepersona]

all house paint is not equal. in the US sherman williams is the brand that most professionals use . i learned from them that 'you get what you pay for' rings true in house paint.

before i learned the above lessons, i used a house brand from builder's supply store and even though it claimed one coat coverage, i had to roll in on more than once. the store did stand behind the stuff and the additional cans needed for coverage were on them. labor was on me of course.

All house paint (interior and exterior) is certainly not equal. While I've never painted with it, I had to learn about it and sell it while working at a hardware store. Sherwin-Williams is excellent paint from what I've heard, though the store I worked at didn't sell it. They instead sold Pratt & Lambert. P&L is extremely good paint, but it is pricey! If I remember right, a gallon of flat white was almost $30! But yeah, awesome paint. Dutch Boy paint is also not that bad for a middle-of-the-road paint. Avoid Infinity brand at all costs unless you're painting something that does not need to last--Like primed walls that are going to get painted over eventually anyways.

If you can while you're at the store, ask the sales associate to open a few cans of different brands after they shake them. Take a paint stick and put it straight down in the center. The one that stays up the longest is the paint that you should probably get, as that is the one that is going to stick to the surface you're painting and is most likely going to give you the best coverage. The one that lets the paint stick fall right over, avoid at all costs!

 

[GoddessLSD-XTC]

Just finished remodeling this house (I own it), did lousy job on the floor NSFW for size:

NSFW:

It's near downtown and the party area.

My fav paint is Behr from Home Depot, two coats, 14-gallons of yellow on the outside.

 

[silentangst]

Very nice!

 

[addictivepersona]

Goddess, that transformation is amazing! Looks awesome. :D

 

[tambourine-man]

Very yellow! :D

Props on getting it to that stage. I saw the pre-photos and it's obviously been a lot of work.

 

[Arnold]

I don't think there's any chance of getting the wrong house when you come home from the pub.

 

[GoddessLSD-XTC]

Thx, everyone.

7-months of my life working on it but I'd only work about 6-hours/day, friend helped me and lived in the house.

Yellow is for the sun (Tucson is sunny 300-days/year), blue for the sky. My house is the same yellow with green for the trees.

I sold it to a craftsman because it was too much work, he did major work, got divorced from his wife and moved back to North Carolina. I gave him $1000 to give me the house back. Never added up all the $$$ I put into it but it was at least $20,000. He also left about $1000-worth of tools and a $300 sink, which I returned to Lowes. Everything is new, including the roof, which required new sheathing (had wooden shingles under three or four layers of asphalt).

I'm putting three coaxial/telephone jacks in the walls now (drilling in from the attic) and trying to find a good tenant who won't party there. One nice couple wants a washing machine but I never put in a drain for it. (No room in the house but a nice shed outside.) Grey water drain is okay but there is no vegetation to water except two trees. I may hook up a washing-machine to drain into a 20-gallon utility sink and they can use buckets to water the trees, I had a hookup like that before.

When we did the floors, staining, neither of us were thinking and neither of us did it before.

I hired a plumber & electrician, the latter put in new electric fuse/meter box and rewired the house.

 

[beagleboy]

You wrapped that house up real NEAT LsD!
cool motivation story bro'!
*did you peek my workbench ITT?

 

[felix]

Looks great! What wood are you working with? If it's a garden bench, what are you preserving the wood with?

Pine. It'll be treated with this stuff (sample piece with one coat above it):

it looks to be douglas fir . just common 2 x stock, 4ss. why 2 by lumber ? will weigh plenty as you said and where is the need ?

the client requested something 'chunky'. and what the client wants, the client gets.

 

[tambourine-man]

In. My. Humble. Opinion....

...you might want to avoid using stain. Wood stains - particularly those used for decks - tend to peel and flake when applied to wood that will come in contact with some form of friction. My understanding is it's because they apply a sort of veneer to the surface of the wood which, inevitably, doesn't flex very well.

A lot of people have learnt the hard way when the frost hits, the stain flakes off in chunks, and their deck looks like it caught a disease.

Have a look into it before you apply. You might want to look into using an oil, rather than a stain.

Of course, an oil won't completely treat wood.

 

[hobhead]

fir lumber, especially the most common commercial variety : douglas fir, unless quarter sawn and old growth appears extraordinarily repulsive if stained . it, hemlock and many varieties of pine are candidates for being veneered or painted or in dire straits sealed and sanded.
there is only so much one can do with most of the construction grade lumber and most often it is to bury it under an attractive veneer or coating.
it doesn't weather for shit, possesses only adequate strength and is certainly the cheapest material for framing.

 

[addictivepersona]

Hey, so, I'm really clueless when it comes to building things, let alone fixing them.

Long story short, I have a little wooden table (maybe two feet square by two feet high) with two broken legs. The legs themselves are intact but I cannot for the life of me get them back onto the table! They were originally attached with thin metal nails, about the thickness of a heavy-gauge staple. I'm hesitant to put nails into the legs as I'm afraid it'll crack the legs/table. I really don't know how to reattach the legs!

I tried re-affixing the one leg with one of the nails that was left and that led to the other one coming off, too. 8( I've debated using wood glue, but I have no way to clamp the leg to the table while it dries, and I don't know how much weight that would allow the table to hold. On that note, the table doesn't need to hold anything huge, though it'd be nice if it could hold a desk lamp, a landline phone, and a book or two.

Here are some pictures:

NSFW:

And in case you were wondering, vacuuming gets done tonight. It's gross, I know.

 

[GoddessLSD-XTC]

Assuming that the sides of that table are real wood too (as opposed to particle-board veneer*), I'd get some carpenter's glue (looks like Elmer's glue) and glue it all back together, glue everywhere where the pieces join. Take the legs off from the brace first might make it easier. U could also get some really skinny wood screws (instead of nails) to hold everything together until the glue dries. It doesn't look like a very sturdy table so I wouldn't put more than 10-pounds on it, especially if U bump into the table often.

*If it is veneer maybe another type of glue would work better, not sure about screws.

 

[Arnold]

Wood glue will hold that and will be stronger then the four little nails but you need to clamp it.

 

[addictivepersona]

Taking the legs off of the brace might work better! Now to figure out how to clamp it (aside from the obvious of going out and buying clamps)...

 

[felix]

I can't find a link to this, but I've seen a DIY clamp made out of rope. Tie it round the affected area, then use a big screwdriver (or something similar) to twist it very tight. Like a tourniquet, I suppose. You could do it twice or more if it needs to be clamped in more than one direction.

Never tried it myself, but it looked pretty straightforward.

edit: kinda like:

FWIW, I would drill pilot holes through the existing holes (or near them) and fix the braces into place with woodscrews *as well as* gluing them. you probably wouldn't need to clamp things if the screws were tight enough.