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The Do-It-Yourself Tool Shed Thread vs Duct Tape Fixes EVERYTHING

felix said:
ahhh, you're just showing off with your fancy bigger tools. ;) i'm sure you're far more advanced than a noob like me (do you do it for a living or do you have those things at home?), but i definitely meant a jigsaw. (this one a few pages ago.) if you clamp something straight, parallel to the intended cut, and slide the jigsaw along it, there's no reason for an imprecise or raggy edge, unless you've got Parkinson's Disease. well, that's a good enough solution for those of us with limited tools and skills anyway. :D

(didn't even know what a sabre saw was until i googled it a minute ago... that might be an american term though. :\)
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in american usage as saber saw is a hand power tool. in the same lingo a jig saw is a stationary power tool through which the work piece is moved. jig saws are used to make ultrathin cuts - think ''wooden jig saw puzzle''.

the jig saw blade is supported at both ends. the saber saw blade at one only, thus it's propensity to wander as it cuts. a blade supported at one end will deflect, following the easiest path though changing grain structure and density.

i have earned my keep working as a cabinet builder, carpenter, furniture builder . i have a large, well equipped shop.
 
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hobhead said:
in american usage as saber saw is a hand power tool. in the same lingo a jig saw is a stationary power tool through which the work piece is moved. jig saws are used to make ultrathin cuts - think ''wooden jig saw puzzle''.

the jig saw blade is supported at both ends. the saber saw blade at one only, thus it's propensity to wander as it cuts. a blade supported at one end will deflect, following the easiest path though changing grain structure and density.

i have earned my keep working as a cabinet builder, carpenter, furniture builder . i have a large, well equipped shop.
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LOL, we can't/don't even spell 'sabre/saber' the same; let alone what it means. :D

i think your saber saw is maybe kinda similar to the popular (in the UK) Black and Decker "Scorpion" type of saw. at my workplace some of the guys use 'Cengar' and 'Spitznaz' saws which are kinda similar; not exactly used for precision model making. ;)

my/our/british jigsaws are moved through a stationary work piece, and i think my longest blade is about 120mm long. straight lines are what it does best, so this wikipedia article is just plain confusing:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jigsaw_(power_tool)

A jigsaw is a tool used for cutting arbitrary curves, such as stenciled designs or other custom shapes, into a piece of wood, metal, or other material
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sounds like a band saw, perhaps? fuck me, this is complicated enough with having to speak different languages too. :?
 
I would just bog the screw holes then use a belt sander to take it back 3-4mm at the most, but I have limited tools so I tend to free style.

We are about to move houses to a new place my brother owns and the washing machine, including plumbing is outside, down the side of the house, meaning the washer is exposed to the elements. My first job is to construct some sort of waterproof housing, a glorified doghouse if you will. Plans and pics to follow.....
 
Wood-Putty.jpg


When your house is held together by termite carcases this stuff is your best friend
 
right. so 'bogging' holes = using wood filler?

Picture059.jpg


I.M.O. those former hinge slots and screw holes need a bit more than some filler.

what they need is to be removed on a vertical axis from left to right, by their current depth +2mm or so, using a power tool, with or without a securely clamped straight-edged 'thing' to guide it; accurately capable of doing the job smoothly and in a straight and perpendicular line to the original edge of the door.

put simply: cut a thin slice off the front of the fucking thing neatly, straight up and down and from left to right, at 90 degrees to the ends. if that isn't the easiest and quickest thing to do, please educate me. ta. :D
 
Or we could be men in here and accept the aesthetic beauty of those screw holes and leave them as they are. ;)
 
that is also a good point, plus there is the added benefit that the fire door can still be quickly re-fitted in the event of a fire. ;)
 
felix said:
LOL, we can't/don't even spell 'sabre/saber' the same; let alone what it means. :D

i think your saber saw is maybe kinda similar to the popular (in the UK) Black and Decker "Scorpion" type of saw. at my workplace some of the guys use 'Cengar' and 'Spitznaz' saws which are kinda similar; not exactly used for precision model making. ;)

my/our/british jigsaws are moved through a stationary work piece, and i think my longest blade is about 120mm long. straight lines are what it does best, so this wikipedia article is just plain confusing:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jigsaw_(power_tool)



sounds like a band saw, perhaps? fuck me, this is complicated enough with having to speak different languages too. :?
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i added correcting language on the wikipedia discussion page for ''jig saw''.
others have made the same comment as i have.
what is pictured is a sabre( saber) saw and not a jig saw.

it is quite often that the names are confused. jig saw blades reciprocate and are held on both the driving and idling ends.
 
hold on a minute now, sparky!!! wikipedia isn't an American language only site; it's supposed to be universal. articles should state that things are given different names in different countries; neither of us is "wrong" here. in the UK, this is most definitely what we call a jigsaw:

800px-Decoupeerzaag.jpg


however, the article is all kinds of messed up by saying that a jigsaw (UK definition, as pictured) is used for cutting curves. it looks like two articles mixed together at random.

anyway, i love my jigsaw. it even has a L.A.S.E.R. - and so does my compound mitre saw, which is probably what Americans call a "hammer". ;)
 
We call that a jig saw in the South Pacific too. I have definite laser envy Felix.

You could always use a laser level across that door and even things up with these...

NSFW:
mallet-and-chisel-thumb5778174.jpg


It's what Jesus would do.
 
Pander Bear said:
that's what I (an American amateur) call a jigsaw too.
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this is from yahoo answers
''What is the difference between a jig saw and a sabre saw?
5 years ago Report Abuse

Applianc...
Best Answer - Chosen by Asker

It used to be that a jig saw was a saw with a blade fastened at both ends with a small table to lay the work onto and do intricate cuts and a sabre saw was a hand held device with a reciprocating blade and a base plate to do free cutting of patterns or straight cuts.

The terminology has changed now and what used to be called a jig saw is now called a scroll saw and what used to be called a sabre saw is now called a jig saw. Some still call them by their old names and some don't. I guess some terminology has come from ignorance and some to just confuse. Is a Sawzall a jig saw or a sabre saw or a saw of it's own?''

a jig saw is, in reality, a powered coping saw with a table across which the work piece is maneuvered. the blade is very thin and leaves a minuscule kerf .

again think of jig saw puzzles; it is not possible that they could be sawed by the tool that you and so many call a jig saw.

if you call a sabre saw a jig saw, then what do YOU call a jig saw? me, i stick to the old original words.
 
personally, i only make jigsaw puzzles with straight edged pieces. my laser guided jigsaw is the perfect tool for the job, funnily enough. :D

if i ever wanted to make them more difficult, i would chop them out with a hammer and chisel.

only joking, hehe. ;) i do know about the machine you describe, the original jig saw, but I've never really thought about why the same name was given to a totally different type of tool.

but i'm sorry, if i start calling it a sabre saw, no-one will know what i'm on about.

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hobhead, and everyone else: please give us a useful woodworking tip for beginners. or just some random advice. :)

i.e. I've only recently discovered how excellent knives are for marking up lines for cutting. pencils are fine for quick & dirty stuff, but a sharp bladed knife is far better if precision is important. plus if you're cutting with a hand saw it even starts the cut for you. excellent!
 
Im right handed with no real experience measuring, marking and cutting.
How do I do it? Where should I plan on drawing the line?........to the right or left of the measurment............do I cut on the line (I've seen those thick lead carpenter pencils) or to the right or left side...
 
beagleboy said:
Im right handed with no real experience measuring, marking and cutting.
How do I do it? Where should I plan on drawing the line?........to the right or left of the measurment............do I cut on the line (I've seen those thick lead carpenter pencils) or to the right or left side...
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depends on several factors. the main one is probably the width of the cutting blade, otherwise known as the 'kerf'. this could be a few millimetres wide and could be on either side of the blade, or even in the centre.

wiki said:
Kerf: Width of the saw cut. On most saws the kerf is wider than the saw blade because the teeth are flared out sideways (set). This allows the blade to move through the cut easily without getting stuck (binding). However, some saws are made so that the teeth have no set on one side. This is done so that the saw can lie flat on a surface and cut along the surface without scratching it. These are referred to as flush cutting saws. Although the term kerf is often used to refer to the width of the saw blade, it actually means the width of the cut, which is affected by the width of the blade, the amount of wobble created during cutting, and the amount of material pulled out of the sides of the cut. This distinction can be important because the use of a blade that is too thin can result in excessive wobble and a wider kerf.
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if you don't know, cut some test pieces.
 
^ D'OH. massively simplistic answer to what is actually a huge subject and skill in its own right, and it all has to be done correctly before you cut anything. i've only just been finding out how important this subject is recently. :\

it really depends on what you're cutting; the type of tool; the required angle & depth of the cut; how many cuts you're making, etc. etc. etc.

look into techniques for 'squaring off' timber, to ensure you're making a straight cut.

if you want to get into woodworking, I can't recommend this book enough: The Complete Manual of Woodworking. clearly, i am still very much a noob at this game, but it's taught me an amazing amount of things this year.

FC9780679766117.jpg


i'm also expecting this one from amazon in a couple of days, can't wait!

Practical Design: Solutions and Strategies (Essentials of Woodworking)

51uzeDrYUXL.jpg


i can also sit on wikipedia for hours reading about things like screws and nails. it's all rather fascinating and interesting and enlightening and i'm probably developing a weird obsession about it all. ;)

======

also, a recent brilliant discovery is a site with top quality printable isometric paper, if you're into your design and techie drawing. lots of file types, blue or grey lines, in A4 or A3. this has made me extremely happy. :D

isometric-paper-1-214x3001-150x150.gif


CLICK HERE
 
felix said:
personally, i only make jigsaw puzzles with straight edged pieces. my laser guided jigsaw is the perfect tool for the job, funnily enough. :D

if i ever wanted to make them more difficult, i would chop them out with a hammer and chisel.

only joking, hehe. ;) i do know about the machine you describe, the original jig saw, but I've never really thought about why the same name was given to a totally different type of tool.

but i'm sorry, if i start calling it a sabre saw, no-one will know what i'm on about.

======

hobhead, and everyone else: please give us a useful woodworking tip for beginners. or just some random advice. :)

i.e. I've only recently discovered how excellent knives are for marking up lines for cutting. pencils are fine for quick & dirty stuff, but a sharp bladed knife is far better if precision is important. plus if you're cutting with a hand saw it even starts the cut for you. excellent!
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felix the cabinet maker scribes a line with a scratch awl. this can be tricky in soft woods as the large soft grain will do it's best to make the awl wander .

the framing carpenter uses the rectangular coarse pencil as the tolerance is far easier to live with .

for furniture and finish work, i use a very sharp hard lead pencil.

i have straight edges of varying lengths that are constantly in motion for scribing or penciling straight lines on panels.

if you get the shop rat bug then always, always, always be on the lookout for clamps of every description, ie: funiture, c-pattern, spring clamps,etc.
those and as many vises as can be had make all manner of work possible and so much faster and more accurate.

i have dumpster dove to fish out old stable hardwood damaged furniture .
old hardwoods have their moisture content stable and when resawn and assembled into another piece, don't crack, check or split.

my shop is a jungle of hanging, stickered wood that i am always aging. if the shit ever falls on me, i am so fucked.

another tip learned young and the hardway: unless you have previously fabricated a similar piece or project - find plans . somebody else will have scrapped a job more than once and finally got it right.

the first upholstered chair that i fabed was pretty but the fucking electic chair was more comfortable. now i have a chart with ergonomic dimensions on hand if i am scratch building .

there is a wealth of instructional wood working material published and judging from our public library, there are many in circulation. that's where the tips are for the taking.

also a set of tweezers and a good light source beats trying to chew the slivers out of your paws.
 
^ fantastic stuff, thank you. :D

i could probably shed a few tears thinking about all the nice wood i've thrown out myself or on behalf of others over the years.

i'm now up to 6 F-clamps and 2 massive sash clamps, but only one basic bench vice. clamping is unbelievably important, i'm realising now.

another tip learned young and the hardway: unless you have previously fabricated a similar piece or project - find plans . somebody else will have scrapped a job more than once and finally got it right.
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i totally get the logic of that. but i've learned a hell of a lot from the few bespoke and self designed things i've made. sometimes it's good to learn from your mistakes and understand why you've done something wrong. i get a lot of satisfaction from problem solving and improving my techniques, even if it does cost me extra in timber and frustration and keeps me in the shed for too long at nights. ;)

but i'm not a total masochist, so that's a good tip about the public library; why didn't i think of that already? 8) must be better than the internet. thanks. :)
 
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