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The Big & Dandy N,N-DMT Extraction Thread - Elves are watching

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I've always found recrystalizations to be strange...

Only time it really helped was when I had about 2grams of some pretty yellow stuff.

After recrystalizing I was left with a gram of nice white crystals, and some NASTY goo on the bottom, that was active once dried, just nasty.

I'd say not worth unless you have a few grams of oily product.
 
^Dissolve 1g per 30-50ml of hot heptane/hexane, let it cool slowly and the yellow impurities will quickly form at the bottom. Decant off the yellow, add 20% by weight activated carbon and reheat until the solution is no longer cloudy. Swirl it around for a couple minutes and filter the solution with a needle and cotton and place in a new jar. Let sit at room temp for a day or two and then in the freezer as usual.

The main keys to getting clear crystals are to separate the yellow oils and let it cool very slowly. If you just dissolve the impure dmt mixture and throw it in the freezer the dmt crashes out too quickly trapping oils. Using small amounts of hot heptane gives a super saturated solution that begins precipitating as soon as it is taken off heat.
 
Is there an advantage to using pure heptane as opposed to naptha for the pulls? Or is it just useful for recrystalization?
 
how long should one leave it in the freezer before all the DMT drops down.

Over night has worked for me in the past, but if working during the day how many hours should i leave it in the freezer before pulling it out.
 
Please, if you have the experience, I'd like some advice: the only things I can find as non-polar solvents are Zippo, Colibri and Ronson lighter fluids and petroleum essence sold at painter's supplies.

I have no idea what the petroleum essence is, other than a vague reference I found on a forum that states it is the same thing as Colibri LF whereas Zippo LF is naphtha. Also, the manufacturer's webpage lists it as "Refined petroleum distillate".

Does anyone know whether petroleum essence would be suitable? How about Colibri, has anyone used it? I'd rather not use Zippo as it is more expensive than MHRB where I live.

After recrystalizing I was left with a gram of nice white crystals, and some NASTY goo on the bottom, that was active once dried, just nasty.

That is probably mostly DMT N-oxide. There is a tek on the DMT Nexus for reducing it to DMT using zinc dust.
 
A great source of clean naphtha is Coleman camp fuel. It's available in gallon sized metal cans at any store that carries camping supplies. It's used to fuel those little camp stoves.
 
My main concern with camping fuel is that it contains anti-corrosion additives. Do you know whether they are toxic and may contaminate the spice? Have you used Coleman fuel successfully?

Ref. Petrol Fuels

Also, I'm not sure whether I can find Coleman fuel where I live but I can find Primus Powerfuel which I found a reference to on wikipedia stating that it is heptane. This is contained in naphtha too, but would it be a problem to use only heptane?
 
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I too and wondering about the heptane thing. I have access to pure heptane and I'm wondering if there is an advantage to using that instead of naptha?
 
If you can get known pure solvents by all means use that instead of the unknown substitutes we often use.

My last DMT extraction I used Ronsonol lighter fluid which many other people have had success with but I've also read of many people using coleman fuel. It's also a whole lot cheaper than those small bottles of lighter fluid.

If you have found a pure source of heptane or hexane the choice is clear though.
 
From what I've read there is a wide variety of substances used as corrosion inhibitors. Some are innocuous, some are very toxic and carcinogenic, some would probably stick to the spice and some not. Until I know what's in the camping fuel I would be wary of using it.
 
I love this thread. Great advice for what i am planning to do myself. That cool slowly and not just , THROW in the freezer part i did not know.

Of course nothing someone makes on our level is gonna be straight 100%. Just have to see how close i get it;)
 
I've ascertained that Primus Powerfuel does not contain corrosion inhibitors. So if you can find it there you have a cheap source of non-polar solvent. The MSDS stated it to consist of a mixture of naphtha and n-pentane.

I've also found a MSDS for Coleman fuel but it was probably an older one since it said nothing about dye or anti-rust whereas I've found several reports on the net saying that it was dyed green and it contained anti-rust. But just in case the hydrocarbon profile stayed the same, the MSDS said it also contained small percentages of aromatic HC's.
 
it would be interesting to see how pentane spice turns out.. .wonder what crazy shit that might pull
 
From what I've read on the Nexus, lighter naphtha (containing shorter-chain alkanes, from 5 to 10 carbon atoms), dissolves DMT less effectively but also freeze precipitates it and evaporates easier. Heavier naphtha and aromatic HC's absorb more DMT and also other alkaloids, giving 'jungle spice', but it can only be practically recovered by evaporation which takes a very long time.

So a pentane-enriched solvent would be less effective but quicker to precipitate the spice. If all goes well we'll see how it performs :D
 
Pentane would probably also be easiest to evaporate, as it has the lowest boiling point of the simple liquid hydrocarbons.

Something like a 1:1:2 mixture of pentane, hexane and heptane would probably work good...
 
Speaking of recrystallization, when you recrystallize multiple times, you're supposed to use new solvent every time, right?
 
I found a bottle of cas:64742-82-1. Anyone know which hydrocarbons does this contain?

The CAS index says it is "Naphtha (petroleum), hydrodesulfurized heavy". Is this the type of naphtha that is poor for precipitation?
 
^Well since it's heavy it would sound so, I don't know more.

When extracting the spice from the NaOH solution, is it better to save the non-polar solvent and use it in the next extraction or to use new solvent each time?
 
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