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[MEGA]Growing advice, tips, tricks and experience: Mark 3

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Question about humidity. What is the ideal humidity (percentage wise). Currently mine runs between 40 and 50 %

Question about leaf tips curled under... my plants are very healthy and green. A "few" of the fan leaves on the bottom of "some" plants have tips curled under... is this normal? I am currently just watering, have not started feeding yet. The temp and light is ideal. Any info?
 
he thought it may be Nitrogen fixing bacteria, but, didn't really find a match there either, so , I have no clue, just hoping its not bad for me...or the plant....

No way, it's definitely not this as you're not growing clover, peas, broad beans or other leguminous plants. It's hard to say without seeing it properly tbh.

HIDs are cheaper than fluorescents, since they're more efficient. Even a 100W HPS will piss all over a 150W fluorescent.

A metal halide will always produce less heat than a fluorescent light or CFL watt for watt. It's a common misconception that fluorescents are cooler watt for watt. They usually use less power, giving the illusion of producing less heat when you compare it to high wattage MH or HPS lamps commonly in use.

That said, you must replace MH and HPS bulbs at least every second grow, as they become less efficient over time, and might give the impression to some that the technology is only as good or worse than fluoros.

Question about humidity. What is the ideal humidity (percentage wise). Currently mine runs between 40 and 50 %

Question about leaf tips curled under... my plants are very healthy and green. A "few" of the fan leaves on the bottom of "some" plants have tips curled under... is this normal? I am currently just watering, have not started feeding yet. The temp and light is ideal. Any info?


The ideal RH depends on the temperature, leaf temperature etc. If you want a really accurate answer, you'll need to buy an infrared thermometer gun (the type you can buy in electronic stores quite cheaply these days which you aim at an object and it gives you an instant temp reading) and calculate the 'vapor pressure deficit' using tables you can find online. I enjoy doing this, and it's a method employed by serious multibillion dollar greenhouse businesses in Holland who grow tomatoes, chillis etc. It's easier than it sounds and will improve your yield over the long term compared to a haphazard approach most people use. You control the RH once you know the target range using a dehumidifier or a humidifier. An evaporative humidifier can increase the RH cheaply up until a certain point, depending on wet and dry thermometer readings. The best way to measure RH is with about 5 digital thermometers/hygrometers, taking an average of the 5 readings. Sling psychrometers are usually not as accurate as digital hygrometer technology these days, fortunately.

However, roughly speaking in veg the ideal RH is from 50-70% and in flower, 30-50%. The only reason lower RH is better in flower is because it can prevent botrytis mold from taking hold; it does not improve growth. Plants generally grow better in high humidity environments, even if in some instances it can increase the chances of mold taking hold.

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Lotus Bloom, I love your setup. Must have been expensive (I don't know how much it cost in pounds, but I see it must have cost a load). If you don't mind me asking, are you growing just for yourself and your partner, or are you supplying a collective of patients?
 
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Just got 10 bubba clones, and some of the tips are brown/burnt. Should I snip these right away?

No do they have good roots? Try flushing the soil and giving them a while to see if they were overfed. If they start getting yellow if you can find some earthworm castings I would feed with that, at a handful a gallon of water. U can use less or more it wont burn. But remember less is more sometimes.

Also fish hydrolysate is good for all plants in veg. Go easy though because this can burn plants. Again less is more.

N-P-K numbers should always be low until you boost. Then u go hard.
 
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How do fluorescent do for budding, or do you use just for vegging? -edit- Sorry didn't read , 1000 watt hps, okay.
So, I take it T5s do just as fine as MH? Ive been wondering if I should switch , due to energy cost and heat...but, let me know how they work if you've worked with both, thanks. Nice set up.

and AE, as far as the product goes, its just a spray made from other plants, I sprayed the top soil then just watered hoping the spray would kind of settle in.

And I have no clue what it is either, Ive been searching for hours online and can't find anything, and its just my phone on my camera, my g/f has the phone that can take macro/micro and has adjustable settings, mines pretty crappy.

I even asked my grandfather what it was, he thought it may be Nitrogen fixing bacteria, but, didn't really find a match there either, so , I have no clue, just hoping its not bad for me...or the plant....

What kind of water are you using...I know it sounds funny but maybe calcium build up with algae on it? or is it literally like little balls you would see from an actual bug the picture is not clear at all.

"There it is, those white spots are bunches of little tiny whitish/yellow balls. they did have some what looked to be mold or whitish mildew on them (My guess is when the peatmoss would dry up, it shrinks, leaving a little bit of room for light to get in around the edges of the cup, leaving just enough moisture and heat for fungus to grow, I potted up and made sure to cover them all up in soil to make sure they dont receive anymore light. Anyone seen this before? Or know what it is?"

I missed this. Umm check this site out and see if it resembles any of this or any of this is pertaining. If not I would say carefully wash off and replant in good soil.

http://www.laspilitas.com/advanced/advroots.htm
 
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Prelude, from what I can see (and I can't see much as the photo is not too good), it does look like it could be eggs of some sort. If it turns out to be you could always take a cutting if it isn't contaminated and start again. In the meantime you must quarantine the plant, as you do not want your whole grow room and any other plants in it to be infected.

I honestly don't think it's a calcium buildup because IIRC you use RO water? Anyway, I don't think a calcium deposit would look like that (in fact I doubt you would see much of anything in the time frame it took to grow the plant to that stage. Imagine how long it takes to build up calcium deposits on your kettle).

A better quality picture would really help I/us diagnose the problem though.

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Climbing trees part one

Climbing trees part two

Very inspiring...
 

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Hey... Help me out! Here is the backstory. We got 10 bubba teens from a friend. We got them home, transplanted, watered. The next day they looked fine and perky. The next day they seemed to be drooping a bit so we felt the soil and it was a dry so we watered. We woke up today and noticed new shoots coming out of the top. The fan leaves were much bigger but they were drooping... felt like the branches were a bit weak? The soil is moist so it doesn't seem to need watering. I'd like to know why they are drooping like this, could they be OVER WATERED? Or is this normal? Here is a before and after picture to help you. (Keep in mind we are only feeding them water for the first week, no fertilizer or nutrients yet. The pictures look a bit yellow but its from the flash. They are all green.)


BEFORE:
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DSCF2067-1.jpg

AFTER:
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DSCF2081.jpg
 
Hey... Help me out! Here is the backstory. We got 10 bubba teens from a friend. We got them home, transplanted, watered. The next day they looked fine and perky. The next day they seemed to be drooping a bit so we felt the soil and it was a dry so we watered. We woke up today and noticed new shoots coming out of the top. The fan leaves were much bigger but they were drooping... felt like the branches were a bit weak? The soil is moist so it doesn't seem to need watering. I'd like to know why they are drooping like this, could they be OVER WATERED? Or is this normal? Here is a before and after picture to help you. (Keep in mind we are only feeding them water for the first week, no fertilizer or nutrients yet. The pictures look a bit yellow but its from the flash. They are all green.)


BEFORE:
NSFW:
DSCF2067-1.jpg

AFTER:
NSFW:
http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc441/lotusbloom000/DSCF2081.jpg

If you think the stems are weak you could try LST. That'll definitely strengthen them up.
 
Just out of curiosity, would anyone here know how to make a simple cheap easy pulley system for my plants? So get the full amount of direct sunlight possible, let me explain, I live in an apartment building and my balcony gets a strip of beautiful sunlight that's perfect but naturally it moves with the sun and there are long periods of no sunlight at all, so I was thinking there's got to be a cheap and easy conveyor setup to slowly move the plants with the sunlight. Any help would be much appreciated.
 
That's the thing... I dont know. The fan leaves are huge and can't tell if its the branches or what..

It just needed to be watered in all liklihood, that's all. It's just a bit of wilting. Nothing to be worried about and isn't a sign of a nutrient deficiency or anything. It could also be a sign of overwatering, yes. If the wilting doesn't go away in subsequent waterings then it could be this. The 'weak' stems sound as if the cells have lost some of their turgidity, which is consistent with wilting.

Or, if it had been in the dark, it is a natural response to the darkness. You'll notice that whenever your plants are under darkness during lights off, the leaves/foliage will always droop. For someone that isn't expecting this it can take them by surprise, as it did me when I first started growing.

If you were careful when they were transplanted I seriously doubt it would be transplant shock.

Just out of curiosity, would anyone here know how to make a simple cheap easy pulley system for my plants? So get the full amount of direct sunlight possible, let me explain, I live in an apartment building and my balcony gets a strip of beautiful sunlight that's perfect but naturally it moves with the sun and there are long periods of no sunlight at all, so I was thinking there's got to be a cheap and easy conveyor setup to slowly move the plants with the sunlight. Any help would be much appreciated.

Make a platform and suspend it with two ropes either end. Connect them to a curtain pole that's used to hold curtains over your window and suspend the pole on a frame so that it can spin around. You could attach a drill bit to it and spin it around with a drill so that it raises or lowers the platform and the plants on it. That's just one idea but I'm sure there are other ways.

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Prelude, I thought you might be interested in this. Today, I checked my indoor outdoor digital thermo-hygrostat that measures the temp inside the greenhouse as well as the temp outside the greenhouse, outside in the open. The temperature inside the greenhouse was about 29.5C (85.1F), whereas the temperature outside was only 16.3C (61.3F). That's a difference of 23.8F. So, when it's colder than cannabis or tomatoes etc is comfortable with, the greenhouse has a warmer, more cozy environment and when it's too hot inside the greenhouse the autovents release hot air through the vents in the roof, automatically regulating the temperature so that it doesn't get so hot it causes issues. This is one of the main reasons why your yields will be dramatically better than if you were to grow out in the open.
 
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i was wondering if someone could help me, i lost my address to TFM and was wondering if anyone could help by sending me the address, it would be greatly appreciated, thank you
 
UPDATE: So the drooping leaves were just caused by the plants sleeping. Nothing to worry about. I wanted to post this update to show you the substantial increase in size and health since Friday. Unbelievable changes. It's truly incredible watching them grow and caring for them. (Beats raising a fuckin kid anyday)

Here is a picture of the teens taken on Friday when they arrived.

BEFORE:
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And here is a picture of them today (Monday)

AFTER:
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You can see they are growing well and getting bushier! They are a beautiful green and in perfect health. We monitor the heat and humidity along with misting and turning the pots daily.

From this picture you can see the healthy leaves forming from the nodes. They are light green and rapidly turning into healthy darker green leaves.

NSFW:
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These, again, are being grown under T5 8bulb 4ft Fluros. They are doing an incredible job. We will keep you posted.
 
^ Looking good SpanoonapS :)

Guys, Heres an update of my lady..YES she's a she :D

I'm a bit worried though as we are coming into Winter here and mold could start to be an issue :\

Pics:

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:)
 
She's a beauty Josh :)

If you get some showers during her later weeks it might be worth putting some kind of shade cloth/tarp over her to keep the rain off the buds. It also works well when you get those cold mornings, and the due ends up on the buds.
 
^ Looking good SpanoonapS :)

Guys, Heres an update of my lady..YES she's a she :D

I'm a bit worried though as we are coming into Winter here and mold could start to be an issue :\

Pics:

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NSFW:
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NSFW:
1-6.jpg


:)

your in perth ay? why hasnt your plant started budding yet? 8o how old is she?

Im litterally pulling two clones that were givin to me 5 or 6 (TBH, I really have no idea lol) weeks ago.. there not gettin any fatter and 80% of the hairs have gone red... they seriously started budding a week after they were givin to me

I just took some photos, Im tryin to upload them now.. Keep in mind they were givin to me as clones very late in the season so their only about 8 inches tall haha but verrryyyy stickyyy =D
 
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