Fashion Designers, Seasons, Trends, Models, & YOU.

[Kenickie]

well well well what the fuck is up in this dead ass thread? no matter i'm here now.

 

[Kenickie]

just a dump because i'm new here.

from hooligans magazine ---

dress from Komodo Boston, photographer Meg Stacker. The credits are dumbshit to look through, but from her instagram she owns a 210 so i assume that's what these photos are. Being buying a lot of weird european nudie magazines because I like rare shit.

i appreciate that while magazines like this are 50$ a print copy, they are free for download. most of this stuff are things i've saved from instagram, because i feel like thats where i spend all my time now a days. i've got more, but i need more coffee. feel bad that this thread has fallen into such disrepair! i stopped coming to bluelight but fucking shit i miss this thread terribly. for a minute there it was all i was interested in on the internet.

 

[Jabberwocky]

Hah that little dress is very Bostonian

Says the only-briefly once Bostonian

I look forward to seeing more of the stuff you like Kenickie. We also need some more good drag fashion in this thread.

 

[Kenickie]

hi hi hi so i said i would come back and write about fashion because this thread deserves more. joe, you wanna talk this? this is kind of just a weird practice run for something else.

got the elements of style aperture issue after talking about it with hydrozuanacaine, and there was some good stuff. despite having the command of all of aperture's resources, it's not very well curated or executed. we talked about it in the office and we all decided that no one could be sure if it was trying to be about the photography or about the clothes, and so it's not about anything. but. one!!!

mainly Monika Mogi.

another thing they refuse to do, is credit anything at all related to the model or clothing. i am assuming its fernanda ly. with a pink fitbit. literally can't credit anything else because this magazine doesn't credit shit.

Monika does take some wonderful, wonderful, Kiko photos, and pretty often.

Kiko for and wearing UNIF

also wearing UNIF

Kiko and her sister in UNIF for FREE magazine

and for "Playboy Weekly"(???)

Monika Mogi has no website of any use. Whatever.

 

[Kenickie]

Azzendine Alaia has died in Paris at the age of 77.

On the 3rd of April this year, the space currently occupied by the Guyotat show formed the backdrop to a very different kind of presentation. The Paris Ready-to-Wear ended almost a month before it took place but, as is his wont, Alaïa chose to delay his show. The designer retired from the official schedule as far back as 1992. “It’s ready when it’s ready,” was the simple explanation behind any apparent tardiness this time, as always, according to his press office and as if it were the most natural thing in the world. It’s worth noting, however, that he is the only fashion designer who appears, long-term, to be in control of his own timing, often showing only days after the main event closes but certainly never in the throes of it. “I live with the climate. I am like fruit. When I’m ready, I’m ready,” he will say later. “There are no rules, it’s a way of life.”

In 2011, Azzedine Alaïa was rumoured to have turned down the position of Creative Director at Dior following John Galliano’s departure. Not long after, the designer told Women’s Wear Daily that the output now expected from many of the industry’s designers was “inhumane”. Anyone who has had any connection at all with the workings of Azzedine Alaïa – the company, the clothes and the man – will know that a respect for humanity is an integral part of the story.

all shot by Alasdair McLellan, styled by Katy England. Wanna tell you who the models are but I'd rather stab my eyes out than continue reading through the make up artists agency credits to find them.

 

[Kenickie]

that's from last year's fall/winter issue, but flipping through (god, this magazine is huge) this winter's AnOther -- found some more. nothing online of course, but joe related.

 

[Kenickie]

the end of my miu miu perfume and my balenciaga rollerball has come. a full year later, if not longer. starting to appreciate joe's scent philosophy of just buying a bunch of whatever smells good and rocking a new one as the mood strikes. i wore balenciaga almost exclusively towards the end, because i liked how much meaner it smelled.
so decided to go with something wild ---

Etat Libre D'Orange. named after the free state of Orange -- a mixed race Boer state in South Africa -- it's logo is a modified Rosette -- like the one Marianne wears (see: Kenickie's Marianne costume circa 2013?) in the images of French liberation and on French version of euro coins. The packaging is nuts.

with my phone case for comparison. this is just to hold 7, 2ml sample bottles.

i'd be lying if i said i wasn't desperate for jasmin et cigarette to be my scent.

Jasmine absolute, tobacco notes, apricot, tonka bean, curcuma, cedarwood, amber, musk…

It is the era of the grand studios when Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich magnetized men with a Hollywood look in the eye, smoking a cigarette in a smoky black and white ambiance. Jasmin et Cigarette is the smell of a woman’s skin when she exposes her freshness to the dark seduction of night. A hazy atmosphere. The reminder of a fantasy, of an indelible trail she leaves on a dress at the break of day or in the intimate memory of the man who made love to her. It is elegance seen by Gainsbourg, the woman from the 80’s who smokes Gitane cigarettes and wears jeans and who, with astounding naturalness, claims her sensuality as a right.

Transparency in sophistication, just a trace of jasmine mingled with the so far neglected smell of a cigarette. Jasmin et Cigarette is the twilight zone, the banned, the addiction. She is an icon, the longed-for woman.

bought my first pair of Calvin Klein jeans, which are due to be delivered today. I also ordered some Calvin Klein underwear, but it seems like if I go out wearing this smell tonight I'm not allowed to wear panties with them.

 

[Kenickie]

oh come on now, will this just be masturbation? miss y'all. but i can speak into the air.

but this isn't that much, just a couple of quotes because i'm finally getting some time to myself.

"The horse fucking and fist fucking videos? I don't think Caroline Herrera has those on her resume." It's June, a few days before the CDFA awards, and Rick Owens and I are sitting in his garden in Paris. "After Dadaism and Cubism and all of the aesthetic gestures that have been made in the past, how can anybody be surprised by anything like that [fist-fucking]?"

That reality was hardly imaginable when Owens first set up shop in Los Angeles in 1994. He dropped out of art school because "I didn't think I was cerebral enough."

"Oh, my father is a Nazi. He calls himself conservative."

He sighs. "I'm so obvious."

When asked about the state of his archival (minimal, not really existent), he shrugs. "My business plan was that I was going to keep on making stuff and selling it on my own and struggling until someone who came along who would notice it and then somehow help. Which is a naive approach but it sort of worked. It was just about survival, I wasn't even thinking about legacy."

Rick Owens' insane Triennale di Milano opens December 15th.

 

[Kenickie]

in my real life now i'm the facilitator for three book clubs, all reading wildly different things but still mostly about girls and horror. One is reading Lolita, one is reading Her Body & Other Parties and one is reading the biography of Oriana Fallici, which is turning out to be more unpleasant than I thought. Lolita is a great group read because 1) its a group of all women and 2) all young women, so the feedback i'm getting from them is amazing. But her body!!

i'm having nightmares trying to write up questions for the discussion on this book tomorrow. it's horror filled and queer and sexy and disgusting, which is all i want in a book woman life wonder.

it's like part of angela carter and also not. it's definitely one of the most queer books i've ever read, men and women and neither. the sex is believable which makes it even more horrifying. the book focuses on women, and the violence that is visited upon their minds and bodies, just out of their sheer existence as female forms. angela likes writing stories where there is a conclusion, be it a faerie tale or a novel, none of these stories end well, if they end at all. even more unsettling. a story of angela's appears several times (in passing or directly) in her body and that's wolf alice, a story "based on an obscure variant of little red riding hood" (ok?!). a feral wolf girl child is 'rescued' from a wolf pack when she is injured, and nuns and others try and get her to "behave" wear clothes etc. she will not be tamed, so she sent off to the home of a terrifying, daemonic vampire Duke. with him she discovers something more human (in the monster // all of us are monster) and i'm going to go see wolf alice next weekend. i need to make a flow chart to really explain what i'm getting at here, but it's all together and all one, all one monster girl child.

even the wolf alice album covers look so angela carter. in the magic toyshop, melanie climbs a tree in a beautiful dress and kills her mother by orgasming and bleeding all over it in the middle of the night.



all girls are the monster and all girls are lethal, as made by god.

everyone had such big dreams in this thread. hydro and publishing, joe abandoning the desert. and what became of those dreams? are you working on them? the wheel is turning.

 

[Jabberwocky]

Definitely interested in reading Her body. Thanks Kenickie, that book is going to make someone a very good holiday gift

 

[Kenickie]

heading out now

what a stunning collection!

just saw ya post that on tumblr. so amazing. happy as heck ya got to see the exhibition and her in person.

remember seeing this photo with the first creation...

gonna grab a coffee and check on what i've missed.

awesome that exhibition was in your town. i've had that first dress in my tumblr drafts for a while.

by inez & vinoodh

edit:
nice timing, Joe.

hydro is at this exhibition now, or said they were. since my original links are broken ---

 

[hydroazuanacaine]

real shots were taken on 35mm and 120, but those won’t be developed for a week or two so my one iphone snap in the meantime to validate keni’s story ...

i was scolded for holding my light meter too close to the art.

they had a sign explaining that the lighting was so low because the dress materials are fragile. so i shot at f/2 and even some f/1.2 — yeah, i got that fast glass. giving me like a half centimeter depth of field. we’ll see if any of it is in acceptable focus.

 

[Kenickie]

i'm trying to write an article about walking for the art magazine i work for. my point of focus is rihanna. so many looks out there walking.

in the time since i started posting this and the time that i am coming back to it the point of the article has changed completely. doesn't matter, rihanna is still pretty. she will also be the cohost of met gala 2018; whose theme is "heavenly bodies ; fashion and the catholic imagination" which gets me off to be totally honest.

 

[Swerlz]

Rihanna is very pretty, I just feel like she's got too much real estate above the eye brows like there's too much head.. Regardless, she's very versatile and works pretty much anywhere you put her.

also HI KENICKIE!!! /waves

 

[Kenickie]

at the airport this morning to see hydroazuanacaine. in security line ? five of the most incredibly dressed black people. floor length pank foxes. velvet shirts. neon headwraps. just incredible. on the moving sidewalk with them and the beyonc? is loud in the headphones. felt like i was in a gang. a couture gang. wearing a knee length mink and still underdressed. atlanta has so much fashion.

 

[hydroazuanacaine]

one of the iris van herpen exhibit. nikon fa with fujifilm superia 1600. through that nikkor 50mm f/1.2 lens. this is either shot on f/1.2 or f/2 ...

 

[hydroazuanacaine]

daphne by alasdair mclellan for self service. dunno who she's wearing.

been trying to get this issue of Self Service since 2012. it's usually 100s of dollars. it's the issue immediately before i started collecting them, so i missed the retail price. just got it on eBay for $50. victory.

 

[Kenickie]

been trying to get this issue of Self Service since 2012. it's usually 100s of dollars. it's the issue immediately before i started collecting them, so i missed the retail price. just got it on eBay for $50. victory.

fucking sweet.

this year's met gala is heavenly bodies because fashion is responsive to my needs in times of trouble. i hope that anna winter's first cover girl (michaela barcu)'s outfit shows up at the gala aka on me.

i think guess marciano pants but i'm not sure. sweater christian lacroix.

 

[hydroazuanacaine]

^48 days.

i try to model dump in the "Bootyfull womenz" thread, but it's not always the appropriate place. this is katiusha feofanova.

while i do say the clothes look good on her, i can't get get passed how young she looks [...] would u say she is the epitome of a "russian doll-face” ?

when you find them young they last so long ...

https://instagram.com/p/BgUMsSOh25a/

the videographer and photographer, julian martin, says he?ll let me know when it?s uploaded on vimeo, but for now that what?s available to link.

for child of wild


in looking for an embedable copy of the video, i found a behind the scenes shot revealing the use of a canon 518. imagining katiusha on super 8 ...

 

[hydroazuanacaine]

campaign is on vimeo now ...

[video=vimeo;261920631]https://vimeo.com/261920631[/video]

rest is here: Vimeo.com/julianmartin

super 8 footage was temporarily on instagram but the videographer pulled it.

kodak was supposed to re-release ektachrome 100 on 35mm and super 8 end of 2017, but it’s still not out and last announcement i saw said on 35mm and 120 first quarter 2018. no mention of super 8 (or any other motion film format). too bad. a reliable color positive (projectable) super 8 would be amazing.