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[MEGA]Community Growing advice, tips, tricks, & experiences Part 5 (2012-2013)

^ These babies are growing stronger everyday. No trace of the 2 insects I probably incorrectly called spider mites. Gave them all a thorough exam today and yesterday. A long with a lil more Seagrow concentrate.

Before I used to water (I use a really nice hosepipe fitting so I make it as close as possible to gentle rain) then once they've had a good soaking (usually after a sweltering day 35 C +) apply the SeaGrow to the leaves and soil. Nowadays I'm playing around with a bit of Seagrow before and after on the leaves and soil. Thinking of expanding my ferts when I've achieved a bit more growth.

Still absolutely no signs of masculinity. More and more "pistil-like" things everyday. Hopefully one of these days I'm going to see some irrefutable evidence of femininity. When that happens I'll post as clear as pics possible.

:)

Happy tokin
 
Once you get what a female preflower looks like - the two pistil things - it's absolutely unmistakable. Don't mistake undifferentiated primordia with pistils though.

You really have to be very patient - that's one of the unavoidable aspects of growing. I can tell just by looking at your plant that it probably won't show it's sex for a good while yet, so don't expect to see anything any time soon.

neversickanymore - here's a description of how sulphur works - "sulphur forms a protective barrier on the leave surface. This barrier kills fungi by interfering with cellular respiration, inhibiting the electron movement within the fungi and preventing it from accumulating the materials and energy it needs to survive and thrive".
 
Well the biggest of the 3 plants I've posted pics of is now showing conclusive signs of femininity (proper pistils at the top and between the stems). The other 2 I have a bad feeling about as there are small lil not ball sacks (yet) but tightly compressed young bud's (best explanation) developing right in between the branches where the "pistil like shoots are".

But I can't CONCLUSIVELY decide whether the other 2 are male yet. If they are, I will most likely cull them, unless one of my friends wants one in which case I'll make it into a bonzai.

The eventuality I haven't prepared for is what if one or 2 are hermaphrodites. Does one cull them too ?

Will post more pics when it's daylight again.
 
Are you sure you can see definitive signs it's a female? If so, that's good news.

Anyway, yes, you should definitively chuck the hermaphrodite because even with obsessive removal of male flowers you can easily end up missing some and pollinating your whole room.
 
^ Cool. Yep (pity bout the hermies). This is not my first grow and I know what long white hairs near the top of the plant mean (+no signs of masculinity).

Disappointing (but also educating) as I had 13 plants in the beginning. All the other plant's I used bought potting soil and funnily enough they all came out dwarfs (like proper, proper dwarfs - after 2 months or so they will still tiny while the 3 in the pics where much bigger) so I culled them :( (risk/reward ratio did not justify them). WHile the 3 successfully growing plants were planted in natural African soil I dug up my self (only use potting soil to fill it up a bit when the levels shrink. So all in all I don't think I'll be getting anywhere close to what I was aiming for yield-wise. Will have to try make up for that with quality. Pics incoming tomorrow.

+I USED VERY OOOLD SEEDS.
 
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Here is the plant I strongly suspect is female Plant 1:

Here is one that could be female, might be too early, help needed Plant 2:

Plant 3 either a male or too early:


Input appreciated.
 
Here is the plant I strongly suspect is female Plant 1:

Here is one that could be female, might be too early, help needed Plant 2:

Plant 3 either a male or too early:


Input appreciated.

Plant 1 - maybe a female because I can see something that looks like pistils but it's too hard to say for sure. I need better pics close up of the pistils.

Plant 2 - I can't see any pistils at all but I need a closer pic. Still, there are no signs it's a female from what I can see in that pic.

Pic 3 - I see no pistils in that pic either.

If you're unclear about what the pistils actually look like, here's a diagram, you can see there are two whitish pistils that come out of the calyx and should not be confused with the stipules. If there's something that looks like a calyx but not two pistils, then you can't definitively ID it as a female. Hope that helps a bit. If you can get closer, more definitive pics then I can give you a better idea.

flowers8.jpg
 
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^ I know what pistils look like. They the yellow-ish white-ish whispy hairs in plant 1 (that I strongly suspected was female).

In plant 2 I made no mention of pistils *scroll up*, just am an optimist to the core. Plant 2 has no male inclinations, that's almost entirely what I'm basing my hopes on. Need to go in there with a magnified glass.

Plant 3 is the one I'm pessimistic about as I think I could be seeing tiny petioles form between stems.

But if I get 2 females out of 3 I'll be happy.
 
^ What is the most humane way to put him down, when the time comes ? Fatal dose of oxy or morphine lol ?
 
In my world I treat the ladies like what they are.. queens, princesses, and goddesses... thier every need and whim catered to.. every desire lavished.. until one night I sneak in with the lopers and proceed chop them into little pieces, shave them good, and then cook, eat, vape and burn them all=D

The males get dumped under a 60 watt until they dump their genetics and then they are unceremoniously laid to rest collectively in what ever way is easiest. :(
 
^ yeah i'mma go with the easiest route when the time comes. I just wrapped the male in a plastic bag as one post suggested, pulled it out and threw it in the trash, wrapped in several other bags - prob made some homeless mans day (they go through my garbage on garbage day) .
 
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I'm shockingly innumerate and was hoping someone could help me with something I'm puzzling over.

I've been reading about using CFL's in confined spaces. The guide I've been looking at advises that you want to achieve between 3000-10000 lumens per square foot. They then describe a simple formula, measure the length and height of the space and multiply the two to get the square area. Then they use a HPS as an example, saying that one 1000 watt lamp produces around 107,000 lumens, so if you had a 4'x4' space you'd have 16' square, divide the number of lumens to get a rate of 6687 lumens per square foot.

So I started looking around at a few CFL lamps to gauge a typical 125w lamp, seems 9000 lumens is typical. A few scribbles later and I figure 4'x5' space with 20' square means only 450 lumens per square foot, meaning a space that size would require ten lamps at a minimum!

So can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong?

I'm thinking it's something to do with the fact you have to keep CFL's within inches of the plant, so the total area being lit is much less?
 
OK, so I figured out that I was measuring height, when really I need to be measuring width and breadth, but even taking that into account it still works out to about 14' square - which means one lamps is about 600 lumens per square, that's still ten lamps to get decent light coverage by my calculation which still seems absurd, there's be more lights than there'd be space for plants.
 
I told you all I'm innumerate

Revised calculation - the sq foot figure was based on when i was including height. So 2' x 3.5' (the more accurate dimensions) is 7' sq, so a 125w lamp producing 9000 lumens would give 1285 lumens per square - so three lamps would give about 3857 lumens per square, which is still on the low side but a lot more feasible.
 
Do you want to use cfls to save space and cut down heat?
If I was to grow indoors I would want maximum lumens, I dont have any experience regarding this or 3 vs 10 cfl lamps. But more would equal more space and more heat. Surely mh or hps would also deliver the lumens you seek. Apparently spectrum is also important?
 
CFLs have gotten pretty good over the last few years - you can get lamps that produce up to 66 lumens per watt and the plants absorb the spectrum a lot more efficiently than they do from MH or HID, high lumen 80w CFLs can be equivalent to a 250w HID - or so I've been led to believe, been doing a lot of reading tonight.

But, yes, I would choose CFLs simply because of the heat issue, much easier to control in a confined space, cheaper to run too which is a high priority.

What I am thinking currently is to get a few four-socket adapters and some 65w globes attached to a 300w clip-lamp - so should have 260w giving (a low-ball estimate not based on the high lumen ratings above) 13000 lumens, run three of those it it should give at least 39000 lumens or about 5500 lumens per square foot, which should adequately cover my needs.
 
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I'm shockingly innumerate and was hoping someone could help me with something I'm puzzling over.

I've been reading about using CFL's in confined spaces. The guide I've been looking at advises that you want to achieve between 3000-10000 lumens per square foot. They then describe a simple formula, measure the length and height of the space and multiply the two to get the square area. Then they use a HPS as an example, saying that one 1000 watt lamp produces around 107,000 lumens, so if you had a 4'x4' space you'd have 16' square, divide the number of lumens to get a rate of 6687 lumens per square foot.

So I started looking around at a few CFL lamps to gauge a typical 125w lamp, seems 9000 lumens is typical. A few scribbles later and I figure 4'x5' space with 20' square means only 450 lumens per square foot, meaning a space that size would require ten lamps at a minimum!

So can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong?

I'm thinking it's something to do with the fact you have to keep CFL's within inches of the plant, so the total area being lit is much less?

Depending on your bulb type you should work with watts per square foot rather than lumens (especially lumens quoted by the manufacturer, the figures of which are shockingly unreliable - you can guess which direction the error tends to fall - over inflated figures equals more sales). So unlesss you're going to get a light meter and specially constructed room, I would forget it. Rely on brand reputation - ask a great grower, or a number of great growers in your country which brand of bulb in your wattage range and bulb type which they would recommend.

Go by watts per square foot, rather than lumens per square foot. Trust me, it's a much better yardstick or rule of thumb to depend on.

The magic number for HID lighting is 50W/square foot. In an area of 16 square feet to get closest to the magic 50W/sq ft, an 800W HID is in order. Now of course they don't make them, or if they do they are rare and virtually unobtainable in mainstream grow shops. In terms of bulb types here are some options generally speaking - the 600W bulb which is the most efficient bulb there is, a bit more efficient than the 1kW, the 400W, less efficient than the 600W and the 250W bulb which although less efficient than the 600W gold standard it is more useful for small plants since it beats the equivalent in CFLs or even T5s (T5s are more efficient than CFLS). In a 4'x4 'area using a combination of a 250W and a 600W bulb is a total of 750W, giving you 47W/sq ft. The problem is, the 250W bulb would have to be much closer than the 600W, potentially blocking a lot of the 600W bulb's light. You could however buy a single 1kW HID bulb with a 1kW magnetic ballast, unless you can afford an electronic digital ballast. This would give you 62.5W/sq ft, an overshoot but not too much to cause an issue.

Now here's the important bit. The pros of having a 1kW bulb are much denser buds due to the light intensity and importantly, simplicity since there's only one light, one ballast and one contactor. With this wattage you need good ventilation and I would recommend mounting the bulb vertically - preferably with a parabolic reflector since they act a bit like a satellite dish in reverse, causing the heat to be dissipated very efficiently. Much easier to cope with than a horizontally mounted standard reflector that would beam all that radiant heat straight onto your plants, potentially burning them if the bulb got too close. As for the contactor, my advice would be to get a timer-contactor combo capable of handling 1kW. This saves you having to buy a contactor and a timer separately and it cuts down on the wires, making your grow tidier and safer.

Now the reason I'm going on about buying a 1kW bulb is because in a 5' x 4' (20 square foot) room, it's dead on 50W per square foot - bang on the ideal figure - and without looking it up would imagine a 1kW magnetic ballast would be cheaper than 10 125W CFLs. Relative to the HID counterparts, simply put, CFLs do not flower weed that well. Sure, it get the job done and is used to produce weed all the time for one's personal stash, but once you've used the bigger HID bulbs, there's just no comparison. It's like comparing a ferrari to a crappy old Ford Fiesta. My advice would be to keep costs down and forgo the more expensive metal halide bulb. Simply buy a 1kW HPS bulb and use from start to finish (except in the beginning stages when the plants are too small to handle the heat and light intensity. The whole thing about stretch being an issue when using HPS during veg is waay overstated. I've never really noticed a difference at all, but if there is one it's absolutely nothing to be concerned about.

high lumen 80w CFLs can be equivalent to a 250w HID

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but if a grow shop owner told you that it's not true. Honestly mate, even a 250W HID pisses over an 80W CFL. Please trust me on this one. I know a lot of growers that use a single 250W HPS to grow more than enough for one person in a closet. Works much better than CFLs.

Also, one word to the wise: an equivalent wattage of CFLs produces the same, if not more heat than HIDs. The only difference is the HID is a point source rather than more evenly distributed heat dissipation. As long as you have enough head room or are using a parabolic in particular, heat should not be an issue if your ventilation is up to the par. Remember, ventilation is as much for gas exchange as it is for moving out heat. Plants need a fresh supply of CO2 and removal of O2, which good ventilation fans are important for. This is an important one that many growers overlook. Don't be one of them.
 
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I appreciate the advice but seeing as though I live in a climate where 43°C. temperatures are not uncommon (we've had about 6 already this year 8o), combined with being on the 2nd storey of a less than energy-efficient home (i.e. it gets frigggen hot up here) anything other than CFL simply isn't an option.

Also, the bubbleponics set-up I'm looking at is designed with CFL in mind, so that's the route I've chosen and the route I will be following.
 
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