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[MEGA]Community Growing advice, tips, tricks, & experiences Part 5 (2012-2013)

Grow them all and then after you flip them inspect them for pollen sacks daily. Remove the males and if you have a safe place well away from the females,different no adjoining room that doesn't have any air shared with the grow room, I would just throw them in any room away from the grow room, you will not need to have a grow light over them I have even don it under a normal 60 what light bulb on a timer, you can keep a few and let it mature. Then you can use a plastic bag to collect some of the pollen. Then bring the bag makeing sure that you or the bag arent coverd in pollen back to the females, Then you simply carefully slip the bag over a couple of the buds on a few of the plans. Mark the buds you pollinate. If done correctly with any fans temporarily stopped to prevent air flow spreading the pollen to other parts of the plant then you will have a bunch of seeds when the plant matures but only in the buds you pollinated. This is a good way to do a little genetic mixing if you have more than one strain.

Also when you take clones make sure you label which plant they came from as genetics and quality vary greatly in seeds of the same strain. So as your plants matrure and you get to see which ones are the best you can keep these clones and get rid of any ones that apeare to be less desirable.

Edit: I would clean your grow room up as leaving allot decomposing plant matter around is a good way to increase your chances of getting some pathogens. Plants look pretty good though:) Also it looks like you are recycling your medium, if this is the case it is important to flush and then PH the medium as it collects salts which will become detrimental to your operation.
 
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Jibult said:
Technically, this is an ID thread. Against BLUA and all that.



I also think those plants are fairly young to determine the sex, with a terrible picture quality for the kind of precision detail a photograph would have to capture for anyone to accurately sex. I don't even want to guess on it as that's all it would be, but I can tell you that, in the pictures you show, I don't see any telltale signs of a male plant. It's up in the air, though, as I don't see any pictures of where branches meet the main stem, and that's pretty much the place I've been taught is best to look for signs of a male pollen sac.



I'm not an expert here, though. I smoke the stuff, haven't put in much of an effort to grow.




[EDIT: For reference, here's a picture, in NSFW tags because of the picture size, of a hermaphroditic plant with both male and female "genitalia" (lol, I don't know what to call it on plants) clearly labelled:

NSFW:
hermaphrodite-cannabis.jpg
]
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Thank you for censoring your porn
 
^ This waiting for conclusive evidence of sex is killing me. Been a few months already.

But as one poster there are no signs what so ever that any of them are male which is spot on as I scour ever plant everyday for any trace of masculinity. So I guess I should be happy about that. Also they are growing well with affordable fert.
 
Whosajiggawaaa said:
^ This waiting for conclusive evidence of sex is killing me. Been a few months already.

But as one poster there are no signs what so ever that any of them are male which is spot on as I scour ever plant everyday for any trace of masculinity. So I guess I should be happy about that. Also they are growing well with affordable fert.
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My last plant I put outside went over 2 months without showing and ended up being a male. But from the picture it doesn't look like it has shown yet. And also, this is obviously cannabis, he is just asking what sex it is. This is not a substance ID thread. Maybe if he had some shit in a bag and asked if it was pot, but yeah this is definitely not a substance ID thread in my eyes. I'll leave it up to the other mods to decide.
 
In a thread I told someone to germinate their seeds in March (a guy in the US) when I actually meant May. Can't be bothered to find it just now.
 
freehugs said:
My last plant I put outside went over 2 months without showing and ended up being a male. But from the picture it doesn't look like it has shown yet. And also, this is obviously cannabis, he is just asking what sex it is. This is not a substance ID thread. Maybe if he had some shit in a bag and asked if it was pot, but yeah this is definitely not a substance ID thread in my eyes. I'll leave it up to the other mods to decide.
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Guess until I see those ball sacks it's anyone's guess. I'll try get close-ups of the pistil-LIKE things I'm seeing if I can be bothered later.
 
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Help me

EDIT: I did put in nsfw tags but they didn't work so: NSFW

So here are the pics of the "pistil-like" things I'm seeing on each plant. Also keep in mind that I'm a pessimist to the core.

What I want to know is do I have reasonable expection of at least 1 nice female ? Maybe more ?

Here are the pics:
NSFW:


1.)

2.)

3.)

4.)

5.)

Everything is being done on my smartfone (pic too).
 
freehugs said:
My last plant I put outside went over 2 months without showing and ended up being a male. But from the picture it doesn't look like it has shown yet. And also, this is obviously cannabis, he is just asking what sex it is. This is not a substance ID thread. Maybe if he had some shit in a bag and asked if it was pot, but yeah this is definitely not a substance ID thread in my eyes. I'll leave it up to the other mods to decide.
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Got ya. Substance ID is different than sub-groups of cannabis identification.

I thought the spirit of the guideline was to keep people from receiving misinformation, assumptions, and guesswork as fact, regardless of what a person was attempting to identify. My B. To you too, Seyer, I'm not gonna quote you, though.
 
IMO you will need to take the light down below 12 hours a day before the sex can easily be determined.
 
Whosajiggawaaa, in that post #809, from those photos because they're blurry it's impossible to tell the sex. Your really need a clear shot to tell for sure.

My personal advice is to use the genefinder method, if the plant is large enough to take a cutting from. What you do is you take a cutting and either put it in a glass of water or plant it in a grow cube, soil or coir in the normal way you would propagate cuttings. Put this in a light proof box, or light proof cupboard (as long as there are no light leaks) and put under 12/12 using a single 12W CFL with a CFL bulb holder (clip on or using a bulb holder). The cutting will show it's sex eventually if you leave it and keep checking.

If the plant is small and hasn't branched out enough to take cuttings, you can use the top when you top/FIM the plant as the cutting instead of a side branch. However what I would not recommend doing is flipping the plant itself to 12/12, determining sex and then going back to 18/6, 20/4 etc to grow vegetatively. The best approach is to simply not even think about switching to 12/12 before the plant naturally shows its sex. Many people are too impatient to wait for this and flower before the plant shows pre-flowers which is a mistake in my book since large scale clandestine trials using many plants in greenhouse back in the day in Holland showed pretty definitively that bud from plants flowered when sexually mature were usually about as much as twice as potent as their counterparts.

So please be patient, wait for the plant to show its sex but if you don't want to wait, take a cutting and just put that under 12/12. Remember, once you've grown the plant out that first time from seed and you have a cutting from a sexually mature plant, from then on you can flower your cloned plant as early as you like. The early investment of time is worth it. If it's a serious grow and you have a good strain you've paid money for and you get a good phenotype, it's worth the wait since that mother plant can provide excellent weed for years to come, not just for that one grow and it would absolutely be a waste to lose out on all that potential just because you wanted a crop to finish a few weeks earlier. Just my two pence.

If you're thinking of doing future grows and not just one off, it's worth putting the effort into finding a good few mothers so you can be self sustainable. A bonsai mum takes up such a small amount of space and light.
 
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Artificial Emotion said:
Whosajiggawaaa, in that post #809, from those photos because they're blurry it's impossible to tell the sex. Your really need a clear shot to tell for sure.

My personal advice is to use the genefinder method, if the plant is large enough to take a cutting from. What you do is you take a cutting and either put it in a glass of water or plant it in a grow cube, soil or coir in the normal way you would propagate cuttings. Put this in a light proof box, or light proof cupboard (as long as there are no light leaks) and put under 12/12 using a single 12W CFL with a CFL bulb holder (clip on or using a bulb holder). The cutting will show it's sex eventually if you leave it and keep checking.

If the plant is small and hasn't branched out enough to take cuttings, you can use the top when you top/FIM the plant as the cutting instead of a side branch. However what I would not recommend doing is flipping the plant itself to 12/12, determining sex and then going back to 18/6, 20/4 etc to grow vegetatively. The best approach is to simply not even think about switching to 12/12 before the plant naturally shows its sex. Many people are too impatient to wait for this and flower before the plant shows pre-flowers which is a mistake in my book since large scale clandestine trials using many plants in greenhouse back in the day in Holland showed pretty definitively that bud from plants flowered when sexually mature were usually about as much as twice as potent as their counterparts.

So please be patient, wait for the plant to show its sex but if you don't want to wait, take a cutting and just put that under 12/12. Remember, once you've grown the plant out that first time from seed and you have a cutting from a sexually mature plant, from then on you can flower your cloned plant as early as you like. The early investment of time is worth it. If it's a serious grow and you have a good strain you've paid money for and you get a good phenotype, it's worth the wait since that mother plant can provide excellent weed for years to come, not just for that one grow and it would absolutely be a waste to lose out on all that potential just because you wanted a crop to finish a few weeks earlier. Just my two pence.

If you're thinking of doing future grows and not just one off, it's worth putting the effort into finding a good few mothers so you can be self sustainable. A bonsai mum takes up such a small amount of space and light.
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Thanks. I have grown before but never at the start of spring(i want big yield). Prob y i have to wait a bit longer than usual. This is an outdoor grow btw.
 
^ I think the last pic above shows SOME promise of femininity. I'm not looking for my cameras charger so these quality pics are all I can upload for the time being.

I just discovered 2 spider mite like insects that had nearly chewed their way through 2 fan leaves. I found them and threw em and combed for more, but I fear I going to have to buy some organic pesticide. Also^ I'm going to take that one posters suggestion on making the area cleaner in general.

More tips, answers to my questions and general comments very welcome!
 
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^ Aza-max is the only thing ive found that keeps the spidermites away... Also helps with whiteflies and aphids and thrips such ;)
 
depending on your views of growing with chems Florimite sends those little bastards running.. I used to sit and smile as they freaked out and all climbed to the top of the plants and parachuted to their death in their little strands of web as paracutes.. it really was like they were jumping of a sinking ship. I have also found this to be extremely gentle on the plants and was one of the only pesticides I have ever used where my plants looked better after the application then before. If you go with this rought then you have to hit them twice as you will need to kill all the little fuckers and then hit them again in there days to kill all the eggs that have hatched before they lay more eggs. This stuff is a god send in my opinion. I think the damn spider mites have been one of the biggest pains im my ass until treatments like these finally came about. for years I tried everything.. predatory mites, neem, P bombs, this shit that shit. and then as I switched to growing organic a long time ago.. I would just rip the shit down after a while and start over if there was to much time left and the plants would likely end up[ looking like shit. but then this stuff came out and even though I couldn't call it organic when I would gt hit by these fuckers the quality of the bud was really no different. So yeah check it out it is top notch IMO. Best of luck with those fuckers.. get on them quick as they fucking explode.


Wait.. spider mites dont really chew through leaves.. especially only two of them.. I think you may be dealing with something else.. Were they eating the leaves.. post a picture of the leaf damage if you can.. but I doubt they are spider mites from what you are saying. from the fourth picture you have some really small yellow speckling and this kinda points out that you may have a thrip population. IMO the thrips will not really cause that much harm to your plant unless the slime trails they leave get pretty substantial as this can lead to real problems as this an increase your chance of getting certain funguses and mildews. But at this point If they are thrips I wouldnt go using any pesticides for them as the application of the pesticide will likely do much more damage than the thrips ever will.

These ar the thrips I usually encountered

919.400x400.jpeg


on this pick you can see the yellow specaling in the middle of the leaf and the silver slime shit on the edges and the little thrips all over the leaf

009-jpg.309765


lady bugs work well for controlling the thrips.. as I said before IMO thrips aint shit.. you can even cut them back by just washing your plants every so often with water.. remember never wash them when the sun is beating down on them or you will fry them.
 
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^ Thanks. What I think happened yesterday is high winds broke those 2 leaves and left em hanging it was then I inspected closely every plant and found 2 spider mites(out of all my plants) which I picked up by hand and threw over my wall then high pressure (gentle tho) all the leaves and undersides.

Will check out the above pesticide's. But am pretty sure I wanna go completely organic as I have been so far (only been using fish emulsion for fert on these plants (NASTY ASS SHIT)).
 
No Problem I worked with fish emulsion based organics for years.. since you are going all organic do you mix any fertilizers in with your medium before you plant. There are some really cheap and really good one to think about doing this with.. once I masted my medium and first combo I was able to hand firt 1/3 the time, decrease my veg time buy a one week out of four or increase the size of my plants by over a third in the same time and increase the yield by generally over 25%.. buy this point I was already getting such amazing results and this really pushed my yield into the stratosphere. so i would explore this option if I were you. There are some really good organic fert addictions you can add to the medium right when you are filling up the bucket in the begining. They dont burn the plant as it only takes what it needs. These ensure the plant has everything it needs at all times for the first six weeks and requires just the a little individual adjustment buy hand with the liquid first and the addition of micronutrients as well. Then a week after they flip or a week after the daylight time gets below twelve hours you just re up these additions as a top dressing and water them back in. Then just add in any liquid that is needed. they will pretty much go through the top dressing before the plant is finished budding and will be ready to be flushed out nicely. There will also be plenty of time at the end to put the magic touch on them and make them shine. This method works well with low power organic fert as this is easily added for a controlled burst.

But if you are not yet adding a micronutrient I would add that into the mix.. earth juice has a really good organic in my opinion. Also if you dont have a PH meter I would get one as i have seen great fluctuation in the PH of fish emulsion fertilizers over the year and also with these it is really important to check and adjust you soil PH at least once a week.. I do it twice a week.

what oragic are you going to use to try and deal with the spider mites.. I just never had that much luck with the organics and mites.. especially if Iot them at such and early stage as you.. nut then again I was indoors and those fuckers were in heaven. the predatory mites probably worked the best.. also i think its important to realize that just because something is organic doesn't mean its desirable.. that neem oil is organic but is something you dont want to smoke..

Oh and a question to anyone out there that has ever dealt with white powdery mildew and had good success how did you go about it.. I have had reasonable success but if anyone has a magic bullet for that shit I would love to hear it.. that shit makes spider mites look like a christmas birthday party with free money and lovely ladies.
 
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I have eradicated powdery mildew (PM) using SB Plant Invigorator. It just so happens this product kills of spider mites (effectively too, I might add). Early detection is key to effectively treating PM.

Otherwise first things first - if you have a confirmed infection remove all the infected leaves first as soon as possible and dump outdoors where the spores won't be an issues. Then ensure the air circulation around your plants is sufficient. Things like potassium bicarbonate (not to be confused with bicarbonate of soda) works very well, but ideally it needs to be combined with a surfactant like yucca extract, or at a pinch, the cheap wetting agent from Growth Technology rather than any sort of washing up liquid or other detergent.

As you may know, milk works against PM. It's not entirely clear the exact reasons why it works as well as it does but there are some theories it has something to do with boosting the plant's own immunity to the disease. Try one part milk to nine parts water and mix in some yucca extract to act as a spreader, preventing the surface tension of the liquid from causing beading rather than wetting the whole leaf.

Remember, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, so make sure your conditions are not favorable to this disease:

Conditions favoring powdery mildew:

High relative humidity at night

Low relative humidity during day

70-80 F (22-27 C) temperatures (These conditions prevail in spring and fall)

The spores are carried by air currents and germinate on the leaf surface. Liquid water on leaves inhibits spore germination. The fungus grows on the leaf surface but sends fine threads (haustoria) into the cells to obtain nutrients. From the time a spore germinates to the time new spores form may require only 48 hr. High humidity favors spore formation while low humidity favors spore dispersal.

Some powdery mildew are inhibited by free moisture on leaves while others are favored by wetness on leaf surfaces.
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Thanks AE.. does the potassium bicarbonate work by the same process as powdered sulfur uses.. if im thinking correct I think sulfur can work by altering the PH on the surface of the leaves.. enough to create a negative habitat for the mildew but not significant enough to cause much damage to the plant. I would not use sulfur on grass plant unless they were not even close to flower but I was just wondering if you knew how it worked.. but thanks again, I like the sound of odorless and colorless.

But nothing that wipes the shit out? It would be nice if they would identify what ever chemical puts the mildew to dormant. I have seen it go from exploding the and absolute stop all by its own accord. washed it off and it was gone and never came back. This happened on all the different strains at exactly the same time and was obviously something to do with the life cycle of the mildew as it wasn't a reaction to any treatment or even any variance that I could ever identify. Or maybe something attacked the mildew... a virus or pathogen... who knows.

Light, temp, humidity, ph, it was all constant.. it just shut itself down and may have went spore dormant.
 
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