The Big & Dandy Basic Mescaline/Cactus Questions Thread - Round Two!
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Bluelight Crew
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well It doesn't appear to have any visible mold. The little bits of floating cactus that I didn't strain very well seem to be larger than I remember. The smell is that awful smell that you can never forget...
I might just heat it up in a pot tonight and drink it warm. that would kill any mold, wouldn't it?
I might just heat it up in a pot tonight and drink it warm. that would kill any mold, wouldn't it?
daysonatrain
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first off, imo ayahuasca is wayyyy worse than san pedro snot. but to each his own i guess...
i stored a dose of san pedro in the fridge for a week once and though it still works the taste and consistency were much worse. like you stated, the unstrained chunks had expanded in size. the most negative difference was that the snot like consistency had increased ten fold. it was way more "stringy" than any batch i had had before. my suggestion would be (depending on how much volume you have) to add some water and reboil it for another couple hours, this would destroy any molds or whatever, and hopefully decrease a bit from the consistancy.
good luck drinkin that stuff
and have a good trip.
oh, also, im sure you have plenty of experience, but i have found it much better to drink cold than warm.
i stored a dose of san pedro in the fridge for a week once and though it still works the taste and consistency were much worse. like you stated, the unstrained chunks had expanded in size. the most negative difference was that the snot like consistency had increased ten fold. it was way more "stringy" than any batch i had had before. my suggestion would be (depending on how much volume you have) to add some water and reboil it for another couple hours, this would destroy any molds or whatever, and hopefully decrease a bit from the consistancy.
good luck drinkin that stuff
and have a good trip.oh, also, im sure you have plenty of experience, but i have found it much better to drink cold than warm.
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I've made the tea three times; each time, I either have the heat too low, or I cook it for too short a duration-- the amount of liquid left over is far too much. In the past, I've just drank what I could get down (a cup, maybe?).
The first time I drank it, I had my fridge temperature too low, so it froze. I drank it in a semi-melted state, which was terrible. The consistency was horrendous, and the flavor was crippling. The second time I drank it wasn't as bad, as I didn't freeze it.
I think I'll do what you suggested, and add a little water and boil it off.
PS. I haven't made ayahuasca, but plan to, so I cannot compare the two.
The first time I drank it, I had my fridge temperature too low, so it froze. I drank it in a semi-melted state, which was terrible. The consistency was horrendous, and the flavor was crippling. The second time I drank it wasn't as bad, as I didn't freeze it.
I think I'll do what you suggested, and add a little water and boil it off.
PS. I haven't made ayahuasca, but plan to, so I cannot compare the two.
daysonatrain
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make sure you boil it down to about nothing. i made the mistake the first time of having to drink like 4 cups of the shit! not cool. you can boil it down to like a few shots worth, with something to chase it with its not so bad... though far from good.
haha, aya is something else, both in taste and trip.
enjoy your trip dude
haha, aya is something else, both in taste and trip.
enjoy your trip dude
Black
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yep, but your problem isn't living mold but the toxins in mold. and you can't get rid of them that easily. even if there isn't mold in there it could have started fermenting...
i'd do an acid base extraction on the whole thing.
next time why not freeze your tea?
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Well, I guess I can feel comfort in the fact that I didn't die on this trip. I did end up heating the tea up and drinking it. Holy fucking shit are the only words that can describe my trip.
I'll post it up in Trip Reports after I can make any kind of sense of it.
I'll post it up in Trip Reports after I can make any kind of sense of it.
ahura999
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mescaline hci
below is a dream i had i dont know what it means but it seemed so real maybe others have had similar dreams about stuff........................weird kind of colourful .....great dream should be a movie ...
• A buchner vacuum flask with buchner cup and #101 or #103 filter disc paper.
* A vacuum source for the above vacuum flask, be it an aspirator and faucet or a deluxe food saver or other
dedicated vacuum source.
* epsom salts
* A sep funnel
* lab hot plate
* sand
* cake plate
* xylene
* acetone
* lye
* measuring cup
* jars
* MEK (methyl ethyl ketone)
* boiling stone
* erlenmeyer flask
* glass carboy & stopper
* long glass pipette to siphon up xylene from carboy
* distilled water
* blender to chop up the cactus
* empty alcohol HDPE bottle for the gasser
* Calcium Chloride for the gasser
* muriatic acid for the gasser
* mip adapter for the gasser
* hose for the gasser
* home made fume hood
* pyrex brownie dish
* fan
* refridgerator & freezer
pieces of cactus are dried allready, then they are put into a blender and ground up to a fine powder.
Then the powder is put in the glass carboy with 1.5 gallons of water.
I've never had any emulsion problems...everything runs as smooth as glass.
If you ever notice any "clumping" of cactus powder together, you just stick in a metal rod and poke at it for a few minutes, and the clump will seperate and the pieces will re-distribute. I noticed one clump in the beginning, but it broke it up in a few minutes, and all went fine after that.
But I always prepare my lye water by adding 9 oz of lye to 1/2 to 1 pint of hot water very slowly with stirring...then when it's all good and mixed, I pour it into the carboy.
Then I add about 40 ounces of xylene. Then the carboy gets rolled around on carpet pieces for a few minutes, and then left to sit upright undisturbed for 2 days...then I just pull off the top xylene layer, it seperates just fine.
Summary:
1) 2.5 to 3 gallon water jug (carboy) + 1.5 gallons water + 27 ounces of lye <mix> + 1 kg powdered torch + 48 ounces xylene <mix repeatedly then let sit 2 days> 27 ounces of lye = about 3 and 1/2 cups of lye 48 ounces xylene = about 1400 mL Mix your carboy by rolling it around on carpet or carpet pieces, back and forth for a few minutes, repeat this a few times during the better part of a day, then let it settle for 2 days at least.
I ordered one of those 3 gallon glass carboys from a beer making supply place
2) siphon about 40 to 44 ounces of the xylene off the top put into a vacant 1 quart (1000 mL or 1 liter) jar
Use a long glass pipette and it will take you about 15 to 30 minutes to siphon off the top xylene layer .
By using a glass pipette, you will experience no dribble or splashback of get away drops back into your carboy as you are pulling...very effective but takes some time.
3) Add 8 to 9 ounces of lye to about 300 to 500mL of water in a jar, add very slowly with stirring...after it is all mixed, add it to your carboy using a funnel. I like to heat a jar half full of water in the microwave for 2 minutes,then take it out and place it on a cement floor and then add your 8 to 9 ounces of lye very very slowly to it with stirring so it mixes together faster. Wear gloves & safety glasses...it will bubble a little bit in the beginning...just pour the lye in VERY slowly. As the jar cools down, you will be able to add the lye a little bit faster.
4) Now add 40 to 44 ounces (1100 to 1300mL or so) of fresh xylene to the carboy.
5) Roll the carboy around on the carpet to mix everything up real good...roll the carboy around every now and then during the day, then let it sit for 2 days undisturbed (very important).
6) Just pull off the top 40 ounces (1000mL) or so of the top xylene layer and put it into another 1 quart jar.
7) Repeat this entire process two more times, each time adding 8 to 9 ounces of lye to your carboy and more xylene...
In the end you will have four 1-quart jars full of xylene containing Mescaline freebase.
9) Now just dry your jars Combine your 4 jars into 1 single large glass jug to dry if you want.
10) Now just gas your jars Combine your 4 jars into 1 single large glass jug to gas if you want.
11) Bubble air through each of your jars for 5 minutes to "bleed" off any excess hcl gas lingering in the xylene.
Use an aquarium pump..connect the tubing to the narrow end of a glass pipette and insert the wide end of the pipette into the jar.
12) Let the 4 jars sit for 1/2 hour, you will see a layer of Mescaline hcl collect on the bottom of each jar. Add the bottom containing xylene with the Mescaline hcl (decant off most of the top layer of xylene into a jar to dispose of) to your sep funnel.
13) Add 1/4 to 1/2 cup or less of hot boiling distilled water to the sep funnel. Let it sit for 10 to 30 seconds or less...decant off the clear bottom water layer...it contains your Mescaline hcl. You can also "shoot" the hot water into the sep to have it forcefully penetrate the xylene by using a water bottle with tip. The faster you collect your Mescaline , the better.
14) Put the water into a pyrex dish and put it in the oven for 30 minutes at 200 degrees F
15) Pull the pyrex dish out and let it sit under a fan overnight.
16) In the morning scrape up your Mescaline hcl and clean it with a 5 minute acetone wash, evaporate water overnight again, then scrape up the Mescaline hcl in the morning...it will be very clean now and ready for consumption in dreams.
This is the ghetto handheld gasser
Materials needed for the handheld ghetto gasser:
#1 91% isopropyl alcohol HDPE 32 fl oz (946mL) bottle
#2 Watts A-300A i.d. barb to mip adapter 3/8" by 1/2"
#3 25' roll of watts polyethylene 1/2" by 3/8" tubing used for food/water cut off a short piece.
#4 box (calcium chloride)
#5 jug of 31.45% muriatic acid
#6 measuring cup
#7 gloves
#8 gas mask
#9 safety glasses
#10 home made fume hood
#11 funnel (for pouring the CaCL & muriatic into the bottle)
DO NOT PROCEED WITHOUT READING THE FOLLOWING VERY CAREFULLY:
The procedure described below is potentially very hazardous. It uses anhydrous hydrogen chloride gas to salt Mescaline instead of an aqueous solution. Hydrogen chloride gas is an extremely noxious and potentially deadly compound. The procedures described herein are safe as written, however, accidents are possible. Do not even think about attempting this method without first securing a suitable gas mask or organic vapor mask capable of filtering hydrogen chloride fumes. Learn how to use the mask ahead of time and wear it at all times while the apparatus described is in operation. Work only in well ventilated areas. Do not attempt this procedure in a house where children or invalids are present.
Failure to follow all safety precautions can result is serious personal injury or death.
Hydrogen chloride gas is serious business people. Don't fuck around with this. If you are unable or unwilling to follow the safety precautions, then you would be better off not using this method.
All that being said, however, I believe the device shown below to be quite safe. It produces only small amounts of the gas as needed and anyone who can follow directions and has common sense can safely produce beautiful results with this method.
HCL gas is dangerous. Do not breath it.
This gasser produces small amounts of gas on demand by squeezing but you still must do this outside (still wearing your gas mask) or use it inside a fume hood. HCL gas will corrode metal stuff on contact, so keep it inside your fume hood. You must wear safety goggles, gloves, pants, and of course, the gas mask at all times when preparing the bottle and using it. But don't worry it is completely safe...this is even easier then the standard titration
Assemble the bottle, mip adapter & hose wand and practice "gassing" a jar of water with air to get a feel for how it operates. Each squeeze will let out 10 to 15 medium sized bubbles. Hold the "squeeze" while the wand is submerged and don't let go of the "squeeze" until you take it back out of the liquid.
It's very easy to operate.
Before beginning, make sure your fume hood is turned on and the fans are pumping air to the outside through the window. Make sure you are wearing jeans, safety glasses, gloves, and gas mask.
Have 2 to 4 of your 1000mL or so xylene pull jars (pull #1 and pull #2 jars) sitting in the fume hood with the lids off. Or you can combine all your pulls into a single gallon or bigger jar to be gassed.
#1) Add 500mL (2 cups) of Calcium Chloride to the empty alcohol bottle, then add 120 mL (1/2 cup) of muriatic acid to the bottle...you will see it bubble a tiny bit...screw on the barb adapter attachment. The barb adapter should have hose allready attached to it--no glue necessary--they fit perfectly together and will be extremely difficult to pull apart when together. The barb threads into the top of the bottle, perfect fit. Now just put the hand held gasser in the fume hood and let it sit for 2 minutes (wait for the cacl to do its thing and suck the water from the muriatic, leaving pure concentrated gas in the bottle). Now just pick up the gasser and press on it a little bit and you will see a "puff" of pure hcl gas exit the wand...do this a few times in the fume hood so you can make sure the fume hood is working really good...my fume hood has 6 brushless fans and immediately sucks any fumes in the hood and exits them out to the outside right away.
#2) Now insert the wand into the jar #1 --1000mL or so of 1st xylene pull -- make absolutely sure you have dried the non-polar with Mescaline freebase through a filter of dried epson salts first to capture any water from the non-polar--it needs to be dry, dry, dry to be gassed and leave us with sparkly white Mescaline right away.
Squeeze on the bottle while the wand is submerged in the non-polar, it will bubble about 10 to 15 medium sized gas bubbles, then pull wand out while still holding the "squeeze" on the bottle....Repeat this about 5 to 10 more times...this only takes a minute or two....you will immediately see a "snow" of Mescaline crystals form in the dried non-polar and they will sink to the bottom.
#3) the recipe given above will produce enough gas to gas all four of the xylene pulls .
#4) hook up the end of an medium power aquarium bubbler ($20 or so) to the narrow end of a long glass pippette and insert the pippette into each of the jars for 5 minutes to bubble air through the non-polar to "bleed" off any excess hcl gas that might be trapped in the non-polar--this will aid in case you decide you want to extract your mesc hcl off with water from the non-polar. It will keep your Mescaline pure white and not discolored by any excess hcl in the non-polar.
be sure to bubble air thru each collection jar after gassing for about 5 to 15 minutes to evacuate off any lingering hcl gas. I used a pretty strong medium level aquarium pump, so I bubbled air for about 5 min. This will ensure your Mescaline pull will stay white/clear/off white when you pull it...so long as your non-polar was dried properly as well.
IMPORTANT: when done gassing, screw the barb off the bottle, put the bottle under a sink faucet, and fill it up to the top with cold water to stop the reaction from producing gas inside the bottle. Then dispose of it properly.
The bottle will be warm from the reaction and the water will also serve to cool it down. Don't worry--it doesn't get over 140 degrees.
How did the gassing go? Did you find it easy?
How many times did you submerge the wand in the non-polar and gas it?
About 5 to 10 times?
Also, you may find that you get a much cleaner product by using a sep funnel...pour your gassed xylene into the sep funnel, and allow the Mescaline to fall to the bottom over a period of 30 minutes...it will all collect at the bottom, from this point on you have 2 options:
1) Option #1 is to collect with boiling hot water....pour your boiling hot water into the sep funnel, then it will collect on the bottom and pull your Mescaline out...drain it all out within 30 seconds or so, then put it into a pyrex brownie dish, evaporate off the water overnight, then scrape it up and clean it with an acetone wash.
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2) Option #2 will give you very clean product....pour your gassed xylene solution into the sep funnel, and wait 30 minutes for all the Mescaline to fall and collect at the bottom of the sep funnel.
Then just drain out the bottom Mescaline layer
Pour the jar into a sep funnel.
Wait 30 minutes, and all of the yellow stained Mescaline hcl will collect at the bottom of the sep.
Drain out the yellow stained Mescaline into a buchner cup with a filter disc and put it on a buchner funnel vacuum setup.
Clean it with acetone and rinse with more acetone (at least 3 times)
the yellow goo ball that drops out of the lower part of the sep funnel...after a while the xylene evaporates off the product, but as it's evaporating you can see white Mescaline oozing out of it and collecting on the dish.
7.) The yellow goo ball must be cleaned and rinsed with acetone on a buchner cup Then you must use boiling hot water/acetone re-crystallization to drive off the solvent fumes from the white mescaline...this also gets it crystalline pure.
Post Gassing Clean-up
Filter the mescaline.hcl from the gassed xylene with a buchner funnel & vacuum. (or if you put it into a sep funnel, it will be the lower bright yellow layer, just drain it out into a small puddle). Wait a little white for the xylene to evaporate off the powder.
Then wash the powder with clean xylene. This flushes through any brown cactus crap that was also in the xylene.
Now disconnect the vacuum hose to break the vacuum. Then reattach it, but leave the vacuum turned off. This creates a sealed volume of air, so when you pour liquid on top of the filter paper,the trapped air will tend to keep it there instead of allowing it to drain through.
Now using a wash bottle, wash the powder with acetone until it's completely covered, and let it sit for a couple of minutes. Then turn the vacuum on, and filter through the acetone. Now rinse the powder with more acetone as it's being sucked through. This soaking and washing will remove the vast majority of the xylene.
Cover the filter funnel with a large oversized piece of filter paper, and suck air through the funnel for a couple of minutes, this will help dry the powder and protect it from dust.
Now remove the filter funnel and allow the white powder to completely dry.
This entire procedure on pull jars #3 and #4 from a cactus carboy tek took only about an hour and a half. Most of the time was spent taking pics. I decided to pull the Mescaline hcl out of the gassed jars with water in a sep funnel, as I didn't want to loose any Mescaline to the filtering process...last time I lost about 1 gram of Mescaline hcl to the #103 2.5 micron filter disc even though it collected about 4 grams on top. I then collected the 1 gram that got thru the filter disc with a sep funnel and water.
If you decide to collect with filtering and vacuum buchner instead, be sure to wash the heck out of the Mescaline several times (3 to 4 times) with acetone and rinse it liberally.
You just have to experiment using the 2 collection methods, and find which one you like best. I like using a sep funnel, 1/2 cup of boililing hot water (the traditional way) the best. Don't worry your water is neutral and not acidic so it won't pull out other cactus ca-ca like a typical xtraction can do.
at the end of gassing the jars, the handheld ghetto gasser does get warm, but it doesn't get all that hot.
I submerged the wand and squeezed it to make bubbles anywhere from 5 to 10 times for each jar. At the end of the gassing which only took a minute or too, water from a nearby gallon of water was poured into the bottle with a funnel to extinguish it. After a while, the Calcium Chloride will turn rock hard at the bottom and won't come out. Fill the bottle all the way to the top with water when you are done, screw on the lid and put it into a single black garbage bag and dispose of it properly along with your normal trash.
It is so easy to use...it doesn't puff out gas until you need it--by holding the gasser and giving it a gentle squeeze, you will then see about a 4 to 5 inch puff of gas (when it reacts with the moisture in the air, it can be seen). It does not exit gas continuously like a locomotive or anything, it's only available when you need it,so it's very safe. If for some reason you need more gas, just swirl or shake the bottle a little bit...but I didn't have to do that at all...it made plenty of gas and exited the gas on demand just by squeezing...Even after gassing the 2 jars, it still was able to put out more gas easily by squeezing on it...this was all done inside of a fumehood. The fumehood was put in front of an open back window
the dried epsom salts after they were used -- they turn yellow after sitting in the xylene. Rinse your now yellow salts and filter disc with fresh xylene through a 2nd fresh #101 filter put on the buchner cup again to top off the jar. This will collect any lingering non-polar from the salts and filter you used.
Concerning the re-crystallization:
You should always do an acetone wash on your stuff no matter how good it looks. I've ALWAYS had excellent trips (over a dozen now) from acetone washed mescaline...my favorite.
1) Just put your Mescaline from the scraped up pyrex dish into a mortar & pestal, add ice cold acetone, and pestal it for a few minutes real good, this will "scrub" the crystals clean.
2) Put a cotton ball into a funnel mounted on your vacuum flask and pour your mixture from the mortar & pestal through it.
3) Turn on the vacuume and vacuume it for a few seconds to pull out any trapped acetone from the cotton.
4) Pull the cotton out of the funnel, and put it under a heater/fan to dry...this may take a few hours...make sure it is absolutely dry before going to the next step.
5) In a few hours when the cotton is all dry, I'll put it back into a clean funnel, then pour boiling hot water thru the funnel & cotton, collect the hot water that falls thru on a pyrex dish, then evaporate off the water under a heater/fan to re-collect the now cleaned up mescaline.
The bright yellow color washes away from the gassed product VERY EASILY and QUICKLY with acetone as you can tell. The product is indeed white, but it is not done yet! It needs to be added to boiling hot water to drive off any solvent fumes--this will eliminate all chemical residue, taste and smell from the product.
Just follow boiling hot water/acetone re-crystallization above or another method of re-crystallization of your choosing.
THE ULTIMATE COMPILATION OF DUAL and TRIPLE SOLVENT RE-CRYSTALLIZATION METHODS for Mescaline hcl :
I'm going to list and describe all the details of 4 popular methods below...also don't forget the 5th method above
Study and pick the re-crystallization method you like the most....experiment till you find the one you like the best. Once you read all the methods in this post, you will see how similar they are and have a better overall understanding of re-crystallization.
Refer to Chapter 13 "Recrystallization" pages 119 to 133 for an excellent description of how to re-crystallize with pictures from the book The Organic Chem Lab Survival Manual by James W. Zubrick.
You will need a lab hot plate or similar (no flames), your solvent and product, and an Erlenmeyer flask, not a beaker. "If you recrystallize compounds in beakers, you may find the solid climbing the walls of the beaker to get at you as a reminder. A 125ml Erlenmeyer usually works."
HOW TO RE-CRYSTALLIZE:
EXPLANATION:
The MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) thing is a dual solvent recrystallization: MEK and water. The impurities are soluble in both water and MEK, but are slightly more soluble in MEK then the Mescaline is. That's why the Mescaline will drop out first.
This has to be done quite precisely because if you add too much water, then not all your Mescaline will precipitate out. But if you don't add enough water, then the impurities stay stuck to Mescaline powder instead of dissolving into the solution. So you have to use well dried MEK, and once it's boiling, you add 1 drop of water at a time, just until all the Mescaline powder dissolves. This gets both the impurities and the Mescaline dissolved in the MEK/water mix. And then the solution becomes clear instead of shimmery. It would help if you could stir the solution with a glass rod in between water drop additions, as this helps get everything mixed
round well, and would help to avoid adding too much water.
After getting the Mescaline powder to dissolve, you boil the solution to drive off the water (along with some of the MEK) until the solution becomes saturated (shimmery again). The loss of some of the water is what makes some of the Mescaline precipitates out as tiny seed crystals. When the solution is cooled down, the rest of the Mescaline grows on those crystals, forming large ones. The impurities stay in the solution.
THE PROCESS:
Put 3 grams sanchez in erlenmeyer flask with 150 mL boiling mek (a large excess of mek.) Use around 50 mL per 1 gram of sanchez. Put a boiling stone or chipped piece of porcelain in your flask too. Add water drop by drop until all the Mescaline dissolves, it will go from a "cloudy" appearance to a "clear" appearance when you have added enough drops of water, this means the last of the Mescaline has dissolved. You can stir it a little with a glass rod after each water drop addition to make sure it mixes in well. If your lab hotplate has a built in stirrer, then you can turn on the stirrer for a while after each addition. Then just boil down until the liquid begins to "shimmer" --- it will take on a shiny shimmering appearance. Stick it in the freezer for a couple of hours. If no crystals appear, simply boil it some more and shove it back in the freezer. Once you have crystals, simply filter them off and rinse with cold very anhydrous acetone. Let dry.
Add crystals to a minimal amount of boiling hot water in a pyrex brownie dish sitting under a fan to drive off any acetone fumes...When water has evaporated, scrape up the crystals. Eat crystals. Trip balls.
Make sure you use a laboratory style hot plate with a thin skillet or cake plate of sand with or without added mineral oil added to the sand, or an aluminum cup with mineral oil bath to hold your flask...and a fume hood is a must if this is being done inside.
Keep a fire extinguisher on hand, baking soda, a bucket of sand, wet towel, etc. for safety reasons. Don't have any open flames anywhere, not even a pilot light, and don't smoke. Wear full protective goggles, heat resistant chemical gloves, long sleeve shirt.
For really big crystals, put the flask in a pot of boiling water that has been taken off the stove and put on a mitten on a table, cover the top of the flask...the pot will take ages to cool down...this will help develop awesome crystals, then when the pot reaches room temp, put your flask in the refridgerator, then move it to the freezer overnight. In the morning you will have tons of beautiful pure white to see-thru transparent crystals depending on how clean your stuff was to start with. The gassing gives you pretty clean stuff anyways,
Your MEK will be brown to gold colored...just filter off your crystals over a #101 to #103 round disc filter sitting in the buchner cup of your vacuum filter flask and rinse them with ice cold anahydrous (dried) acetone.
To make the acetone anahydrous (remove the water) bake a thin layer of epsom salts in the oven at high temp 400 degrees F. for a couple hours. They will turn white. When it cools down crush it up a little, use a spatula to scrape it up. Throw a few hand fulls in your tin of acetone. Leave it for an hour or two and shake it every few minutes. Decant off the top layer of acetone above the rocks and filter it a few times thru a #103 filter disc on a vacuum flask before you use any. If your acetone is anahydrous you won't loose any product when you rinse the crystals.
Materials list:
* Ring stand
* Stainless steel mixing bowl to hold the water bath on the hotplate/stirrer
* Buret clamp (should have rubber jaws to hold grip on the flask, I don't like metal touching glass, or you can wrap plumbers tape around the jaws or the neck of the flask.) It's easy to find buret clamps with rubber coated jaws for about $7.
* 125 to 250 ML erlenmeyer flask
* distilled water and pipette to "dropper the drops of water in"* 150 ML of pre-dried MEK (dry the mek in the can with dried epsom salts, decant off the top portion of the MEK above the rocks and then filter it thru a #103 filter disc)
* 3 grams of non-pure or dirty mescaline
* boiling stones (alumina or teflon typical boiling stones)
* hotplate with built in magnetic stirrer
* stir bar
* home made fume hood
* open back window
* electronic temperature probe/thermometer (about $12 from dept store, kitchen section), not necessary but handy to measure temp of the water bath.
* fridge and freezer - allow the slow growth of large crystals, move your post-boiled MEK to room temp, then to fridge, then to freezer overnight for the best largest crystal growth.
* fire extinguisher (for safety reasons on standby, can never be too safe)
* sand/wet towel (on standby for safety reasons, can never be too safe)
* safety goggles and gloves
* remember no open flames, no lit pilot lights, no smoking.
The flask shouldn't be touching the bottom of the bowl. It does matter, because if it is touching, then the bottom of the flask will heat up hotter then the rest of the flask. This creates a heat gradient which stresses the glass,it's not as bad as just plucking it on a hot plate, but it's not good for it, and it's more likely to bump. Bumping is when the bottom of the liquid heats up hotter then the top, and then it super boils spraying stuff all over.Constant stirring, or boiling stones help stop this, but bumping is minimized by using a water or oil bath, rather then putting it on the heating element.
• A buchner vacuum flask with buchner cup and #101 or #103 filter disc paper.
* A vacuum source for the above vacuum flask, be it an aspirator and faucet or a deluxe food saver or other
dedicated vacuum source.
* epsom salts
* A sep funnel
* lab hot plate
* sand
* cake plate
* xylene
* acetone
* lye
* measuring cup
* jars
* MEK (methyl ethyl ketone)
* boiling stone
* erlenmeyer flask
* glass carboy & stopper
* long glass pipette to siphon up xylene from carboy
* distilled water
* blender to chop up the cactus
* empty alcohol HDPE bottle for the gasser
* Calcium Chloride for the gasser
* muriatic acid for the gasser
* mip adapter for the gasser
* hose for the gasser
* home made fume hood
* pyrex brownie dish
* fan
* refridgerator & freezer
pieces of cactus are dried allready, then they are put into a blender and ground up to a fine powder.
Then the powder is put in the glass carboy with 1.5 gallons of water.
I've never had any emulsion problems...everything runs as smooth as glass.
If you ever notice any "clumping" of cactus powder together, you just stick in a metal rod and poke at it for a few minutes, and the clump will seperate and the pieces will re-distribute. I noticed one clump in the beginning, but it broke it up in a few minutes, and all went fine after that.
But I always prepare my lye water by adding 9 oz of lye to 1/2 to 1 pint of hot water very slowly with stirring...then when it's all good and mixed, I pour it into the carboy.
Then I add about 40 ounces of xylene. Then the carboy gets rolled around on carpet pieces for a few minutes, and then left to sit upright undisturbed for 2 days...then I just pull off the top xylene layer, it seperates just fine.
Summary:
1) 2.5 to 3 gallon water jug (carboy) + 1.5 gallons water + 27 ounces of lye <mix> + 1 kg powdered torch + 48 ounces xylene <mix repeatedly then let sit 2 days> 27 ounces of lye = about 3 and 1/2 cups of lye 48 ounces xylene = about 1400 mL Mix your carboy by rolling it around on carpet or carpet pieces, back and forth for a few minutes, repeat this a few times during the better part of a day, then let it settle for 2 days at least.
I ordered one of those 3 gallon glass carboys from a beer making supply place
2) siphon about 40 to 44 ounces of the xylene off the top put into a vacant 1 quart (1000 mL or 1 liter) jar
Use a long glass pipette and it will take you about 15 to 30 minutes to siphon off the top xylene layer .
By using a glass pipette, you will experience no dribble or splashback of get away drops back into your carboy as you are pulling...very effective but takes some time.
3) Add 8 to 9 ounces of lye to about 300 to 500mL of water in a jar, add very slowly with stirring...after it is all mixed, add it to your carboy using a funnel. I like to heat a jar half full of water in the microwave for 2 minutes,then take it out and place it on a cement floor and then add your 8 to 9 ounces of lye very very slowly to it with stirring so it mixes together faster. Wear gloves & safety glasses...it will bubble a little bit in the beginning...just pour the lye in VERY slowly. As the jar cools down, you will be able to add the lye a little bit faster.
4) Now add 40 to 44 ounces (1100 to 1300mL or so) of fresh xylene to the carboy.
5) Roll the carboy around on the carpet to mix everything up real good...roll the carboy around every now and then during the day, then let it sit for 2 days undisturbed (very important).
6) Just pull off the top 40 ounces (1000mL) or so of the top xylene layer and put it into another 1 quart jar.
7) Repeat this entire process two more times, each time adding 8 to 9 ounces of lye to your carboy and more xylene...
In the end you will have four 1-quart jars full of xylene containing Mescaline freebase.
9) Now just dry your jars Combine your 4 jars into 1 single large glass jug to dry if you want.
10) Now just gas your jars Combine your 4 jars into 1 single large glass jug to gas if you want.
11) Bubble air through each of your jars for 5 minutes to "bleed" off any excess hcl gas lingering in the xylene.
Use an aquarium pump..connect the tubing to the narrow end of a glass pipette and insert the wide end of the pipette into the jar.
12) Let the 4 jars sit for 1/2 hour, you will see a layer of Mescaline hcl collect on the bottom of each jar. Add the bottom containing xylene with the Mescaline hcl (decant off most of the top layer of xylene into a jar to dispose of) to your sep funnel.
13) Add 1/4 to 1/2 cup or less of hot boiling distilled water to the sep funnel. Let it sit for 10 to 30 seconds or less...decant off the clear bottom water layer...it contains your Mescaline hcl. You can also "shoot" the hot water into the sep to have it forcefully penetrate the xylene by using a water bottle with tip. The faster you collect your Mescaline , the better.
14) Put the water into a pyrex dish and put it in the oven for 30 minutes at 200 degrees F
15) Pull the pyrex dish out and let it sit under a fan overnight.
16) In the morning scrape up your Mescaline hcl and clean it with a 5 minute acetone wash, evaporate water overnight again, then scrape up the Mescaline hcl in the morning...it will be very clean now and ready for consumption in dreams.
This is the ghetto handheld gasser
Materials needed for the handheld ghetto gasser:
#1 91% isopropyl alcohol HDPE 32 fl oz (946mL) bottle
#2 Watts A-300A i.d. barb to mip adapter 3/8" by 1/2"
#3 25' roll of watts polyethylene 1/2" by 3/8" tubing used for food/water cut off a short piece.
#4 box (calcium chloride)
#5 jug of 31.45% muriatic acid
#6 measuring cup
#7 gloves
#8 gas mask
#9 safety glasses
#10 home made fume hood
#11 funnel (for pouring the CaCL & muriatic into the bottle)
DO NOT PROCEED WITHOUT READING THE FOLLOWING VERY CAREFULLY:
The procedure described below is potentially very hazardous. It uses anhydrous hydrogen chloride gas to salt Mescaline instead of an aqueous solution. Hydrogen chloride gas is an extremely noxious and potentially deadly compound. The procedures described herein are safe as written, however, accidents are possible. Do not even think about attempting this method without first securing a suitable gas mask or organic vapor mask capable of filtering hydrogen chloride fumes. Learn how to use the mask ahead of time and wear it at all times while the apparatus described is in operation. Work only in well ventilated areas. Do not attempt this procedure in a house where children or invalids are present.
Failure to follow all safety precautions can result is serious personal injury or death.
Hydrogen chloride gas is serious business people. Don't fuck around with this. If you are unable or unwilling to follow the safety precautions, then you would be better off not using this method.
All that being said, however, I believe the device shown below to be quite safe. It produces only small amounts of the gas as needed and anyone who can follow directions and has common sense can safely produce beautiful results with this method.
HCL gas is dangerous. Do not breath it.
This gasser produces small amounts of gas on demand by squeezing but you still must do this outside (still wearing your gas mask) or use it inside a fume hood. HCL gas will corrode metal stuff on contact, so keep it inside your fume hood. You must wear safety goggles, gloves, pants, and of course, the gas mask at all times when preparing the bottle and using it. But don't worry it is completely safe...this is even easier then the standard titration
Assemble the bottle, mip adapter & hose wand and practice "gassing" a jar of water with air to get a feel for how it operates. Each squeeze will let out 10 to 15 medium sized bubbles. Hold the "squeeze" while the wand is submerged and don't let go of the "squeeze" until you take it back out of the liquid.
It's very easy to operate.
Before beginning, make sure your fume hood is turned on and the fans are pumping air to the outside through the window. Make sure you are wearing jeans, safety glasses, gloves, and gas mask.
Have 2 to 4 of your 1000mL or so xylene pull jars (pull #1 and pull #2 jars) sitting in the fume hood with the lids off. Or you can combine all your pulls into a single gallon or bigger jar to be gassed.
#1) Add 500mL (2 cups) of Calcium Chloride to the empty alcohol bottle, then add 120 mL (1/2 cup) of muriatic acid to the bottle...you will see it bubble a tiny bit...screw on the barb adapter attachment. The barb adapter should have hose allready attached to it--no glue necessary--they fit perfectly together and will be extremely difficult to pull apart when together. The barb threads into the top of the bottle, perfect fit. Now just put the hand held gasser in the fume hood and let it sit for 2 minutes (wait for the cacl to do its thing and suck the water from the muriatic, leaving pure concentrated gas in the bottle). Now just pick up the gasser and press on it a little bit and you will see a "puff" of pure hcl gas exit the wand...do this a few times in the fume hood so you can make sure the fume hood is working really good...my fume hood has 6 brushless fans and immediately sucks any fumes in the hood and exits them out to the outside right away.
#2) Now insert the wand into the jar #1 --1000mL or so of 1st xylene pull -- make absolutely sure you have dried the non-polar with Mescaline freebase through a filter of dried epson salts first to capture any water from the non-polar--it needs to be dry, dry, dry to be gassed and leave us with sparkly white Mescaline right away.
Squeeze on the bottle while the wand is submerged in the non-polar, it will bubble about 10 to 15 medium sized gas bubbles, then pull wand out while still holding the "squeeze" on the bottle....Repeat this about 5 to 10 more times...this only takes a minute or two....you will immediately see a "snow" of Mescaline crystals form in the dried non-polar and they will sink to the bottom.
#3) the recipe given above will produce enough gas to gas all four of the xylene pulls .
#4) hook up the end of an medium power aquarium bubbler ($20 or so) to the narrow end of a long glass pippette and insert the pippette into each of the jars for 5 minutes to bubble air through the non-polar to "bleed" off any excess hcl gas that might be trapped in the non-polar--this will aid in case you decide you want to extract your mesc hcl off with water from the non-polar. It will keep your Mescaline pure white and not discolored by any excess hcl in the non-polar.
be sure to bubble air thru each collection jar after gassing for about 5 to 15 minutes to evacuate off any lingering hcl gas. I used a pretty strong medium level aquarium pump, so I bubbled air for about 5 min. This will ensure your Mescaline pull will stay white/clear/off white when you pull it...so long as your non-polar was dried properly as well.
IMPORTANT: when done gassing, screw the barb off the bottle, put the bottle under a sink faucet, and fill it up to the top with cold water to stop the reaction from producing gas inside the bottle. Then dispose of it properly.
The bottle will be warm from the reaction and the water will also serve to cool it down. Don't worry--it doesn't get over 140 degrees.
How did the gassing go? Did you find it easy?
How many times did you submerge the wand in the non-polar and gas it?
About 5 to 10 times?
Also, you may find that you get a much cleaner product by using a sep funnel...pour your gassed xylene into the sep funnel, and allow the Mescaline to fall to the bottom over a period of 30 minutes...it will all collect at the bottom, from this point on you have 2 options:
1) Option #1 is to collect with boiling hot water....pour your boiling hot water into the sep funnel, then it will collect on the bottom and pull your Mescaline out...drain it all out within 30 seconds or so, then put it into a pyrex brownie dish, evaporate off the water overnight, then scrape it up and clean it with an acetone wash.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2) Option #2 will give you very clean product....pour your gassed xylene solution into the sep funnel, and wait 30 minutes for all the Mescaline to fall and collect at the bottom of the sep funnel.
Then just drain out the bottom Mescaline layer
Pour the jar into a sep funnel.
Wait 30 minutes, and all of the yellow stained Mescaline hcl will collect at the bottom of the sep.
Drain out the yellow stained Mescaline into a buchner cup with a filter disc and put it on a buchner funnel vacuum setup.
Clean it with acetone and rinse with more acetone (at least 3 times)
the yellow goo ball that drops out of the lower part of the sep funnel...after a while the xylene evaporates off the product, but as it's evaporating you can see white Mescaline oozing out of it and collecting on the dish.
7.) The yellow goo ball must be cleaned and rinsed with acetone on a buchner cup Then you must use boiling hot water/acetone re-crystallization to drive off the solvent fumes from the white mescaline...this also gets it crystalline pure.
Post Gassing Clean-up
Filter the mescaline.hcl from the gassed xylene with a buchner funnel & vacuum. (or if you put it into a sep funnel, it will be the lower bright yellow layer, just drain it out into a small puddle). Wait a little white for the xylene to evaporate off the powder.
Then wash the powder with clean xylene. This flushes through any brown cactus crap that was also in the xylene.
Now disconnect the vacuum hose to break the vacuum. Then reattach it, but leave the vacuum turned off. This creates a sealed volume of air, so when you pour liquid on top of the filter paper,the trapped air will tend to keep it there instead of allowing it to drain through.
Now using a wash bottle, wash the powder with acetone until it's completely covered, and let it sit for a couple of minutes. Then turn the vacuum on, and filter through the acetone. Now rinse the powder with more acetone as it's being sucked through. This soaking and washing will remove the vast majority of the xylene.
Cover the filter funnel with a large oversized piece of filter paper, and suck air through the funnel for a couple of minutes, this will help dry the powder and protect it from dust.
Now remove the filter funnel and allow the white powder to completely dry.
This entire procedure on pull jars #3 and #4 from a cactus carboy tek took only about an hour and a half. Most of the time was spent taking pics. I decided to pull the Mescaline hcl out of the gassed jars with water in a sep funnel, as I didn't want to loose any Mescaline to the filtering process...last time I lost about 1 gram of Mescaline hcl to the #103 2.5 micron filter disc even though it collected about 4 grams on top. I then collected the 1 gram that got thru the filter disc with a sep funnel and water.
If you decide to collect with filtering and vacuum buchner instead, be sure to wash the heck out of the Mescaline several times (3 to 4 times) with acetone and rinse it liberally.
You just have to experiment using the 2 collection methods, and find which one you like best. I like using a sep funnel, 1/2 cup of boililing hot water (the traditional way) the best. Don't worry your water is neutral and not acidic so it won't pull out other cactus ca-ca like a typical xtraction can do.
at the end of gassing the jars, the handheld ghetto gasser does get warm, but it doesn't get all that hot.
I submerged the wand and squeezed it to make bubbles anywhere from 5 to 10 times for each jar. At the end of the gassing which only took a minute or too, water from a nearby gallon of water was poured into the bottle with a funnel to extinguish it. After a while, the Calcium Chloride will turn rock hard at the bottom and won't come out. Fill the bottle all the way to the top with water when you are done, screw on the lid and put it into a single black garbage bag and dispose of it properly along with your normal trash.
It is so easy to use...it doesn't puff out gas until you need it--by holding the gasser and giving it a gentle squeeze, you will then see about a 4 to 5 inch puff of gas (when it reacts with the moisture in the air, it can be seen). It does not exit gas continuously like a locomotive or anything, it's only available when you need it,so it's very safe. If for some reason you need more gas, just swirl or shake the bottle a little bit...but I didn't have to do that at all...it made plenty of gas and exited the gas on demand just by squeezing...Even after gassing the 2 jars, it still was able to put out more gas easily by squeezing on it...this was all done inside of a fumehood. The fumehood was put in front of an open back window
the dried epsom salts after they were used -- they turn yellow after sitting in the xylene. Rinse your now yellow salts and filter disc with fresh xylene through a 2nd fresh #101 filter put on the buchner cup again to top off the jar. This will collect any lingering non-polar from the salts and filter you used.
Concerning the re-crystallization:
You should always do an acetone wash on your stuff no matter how good it looks. I've ALWAYS had excellent trips (over a dozen now) from acetone washed mescaline...my favorite.
1) Just put your Mescaline from the scraped up pyrex dish into a mortar & pestal, add ice cold acetone, and pestal it for a few minutes real good, this will "scrub" the crystals clean.
2) Put a cotton ball into a funnel mounted on your vacuum flask and pour your mixture from the mortar & pestal through it.
3) Turn on the vacuume and vacuume it for a few seconds to pull out any trapped acetone from the cotton.
4) Pull the cotton out of the funnel, and put it under a heater/fan to dry...this may take a few hours...make sure it is absolutely dry before going to the next step.
5) In a few hours when the cotton is all dry, I'll put it back into a clean funnel, then pour boiling hot water thru the funnel & cotton, collect the hot water that falls thru on a pyrex dish, then evaporate off the water under a heater/fan to re-collect the now cleaned up mescaline.
The bright yellow color washes away from the gassed product VERY EASILY and QUICKLY with acetone as you can tell. The product is indeed white, but it is not done yet! It needs to be added to boiling hot water to drive off any solvent fumes--this will eliminate all chemical residue, taste and smell from the product.
Just follow boiling hot water/acetone re-crystallization above or another method of re-crystallization of your choosing.
THE ULTIMATE COMPILATION OF DUAL and TRIPLE SOLVENT RE-CRYSTALLIZATION METHODS for Mescaline hcl :
I'm going to list and describe all the details of 4 popular methods below...also don't forget the 5th method above
Study and pick the re-crystallization method you like the most....experiment till you find the one you like the best. Once you read all the methods in this post, you will see how similar they are and have a better overall understanding of re-crystallization.
Refer to Chapter 13 "Recrystallization" pages 119 to 133 for an excellent description of how to re-crystallize with pictures from the book The Organic Chem Lab Survival Manual by James W. Zubrick.
You will need a lab hot plate or similar (no flames), your solvent and product, and an Erlenmeyer flask, not a beaker. "If you recrystallize compounds in beakers, you may find the solid climbing the walls of the beaker to get at you as a reminder. A 125ml Erlenmeyer usually works."
HOW TO RE-CRYSTALLIZE:
EXPLANATION:
The MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) thing is a dual solvent recrystallization: MEK and water. The impurities are soluble in both water and MEK, but are slightly more soluble in MEK then the Mescaline is. That's why the Mescaline will drop out first.
This has to be done quite precisely because if you add too much water, then not all your Mescaline will precipitate out. But if you don't add enough water, then the impurities stay stuck to Mescaline powder instead of dissolving into the solution. So you have to use well dried MEK, and once it's boiling, you add 1 drop of water at a time, just until all the Mescaline powder dissolves. This gets both the impurities and the Mescaline dissolved in the MEK/water mix. And then the solution becomes clear instead of shimmery. It would help if you could stir the solution with a glass rod in between water drop additions, as this helps get everything mixed
round well, and would help to avoid adding too much water.
After getting the Mescaline powder to dissolve, you boil the solution to drive off the water (along with some of the MEK) until the solution becomes saturated (shimmery again). The loss of some of the water is what makes some of the Mescaline precipitates out as tiny seed crystals. When the solution is cooled down, the rest of the Mescaline grows on those crystals, forming large ones. The impurities stay in the solution.
THE PROCESS:
Put 3 grams sanchez in erlenmeyer flask with 150 mL boiling mek (a large excess of mek.) Use around 50 mL per 1 gram of sanchez. Put a boiling stone or chipped piece of porcelain in your flask too. Add water drop by drop until all the Mescaline dissolves, it will go from a "cloudy" appearance to a "clear" appearance when you have added enough drops of water, this means the last of the Mescaline has dissolved. You can stir it a little with a glass rod after each water drop addition to make sure it mixes in well. If your lab hotplate has a built in stirrer, then you can turn on the stirrer for a while after each addition. Then just boil down until the liquid begins to "shimmer" --- it will take on a shiny shimmering appearance. Stick it in the freezer for a couple of hours. If no crystals appear, simply boil it some more and shove it back in the freezer. Once you have crystals, simply filter them off and rinse with cold very anhydrous acetone. Let dry.
Add crystals to a minimal amount of boiling hot water in a pyrex brownie dish sitting under a fan to drive off any acetone fumes...When water has evaporated, scrape up the crystals. Eat crystals. Trip balls.
Make sure you use a laboratory style hot plate with a thin skillet or cake plate of sand with or without added mineral oil added to the sand, or an aluminum cup with mineral oil bath to hold your flask...and a fume hood is a must if this is being done inside.
Keep a fire extinguisher on hand, baking soda, a bucket of sand, wet towel, etc. for safety reasons. Don't have any open flames anywhere, not even a pilot light, and don't smoke. Wear full protective goggles, heat resistant chemical gloves, long sleeve shirt.
For really big crystals, put the flask in a pot of boiling water that has been taken off the stove and put on a mitten on a table, cover the top of the flask...the pot will take ages to cool down...this will help develop awesome crystals, then when the pot reaches room temp, put your flask in the refridgerator, then move it to the freezer overnight. In the morning you will have tons of beautiful pure white to see-thru transparent crystals depending on how clean your stuff was to start with. The gassing gives you pretty clean stuff anyways,
Your MEK will be brown to gold colored...just filter off your crystals over a #101 to #103 round disc filter sitting in the buchner cup of your vacuum filter flask and rinse them with ice cold anahydrous (dried) acetone.
To make the acetone anahydrous (remove the water) bake a thin layer of epsom salts in the oven at high temp 400 degrees F. for a couple hours. They will turn white. When it cools down crush it up a little, use a spatula to scrape it up. Throw a few hand fulls in your tin of acetone. Leave it for an hour or two and shake it every few minutes. Decant off the top layer of acetone above the rocks and filter it a few times thru a #103 filter disc on a vacuum flask before you use any. If your acetone is anahydrous you won't loose any product when you rinse the crystals.
Materials list:
* Ring stand
* Stainless steel mixing bowl to hold the water bath on the hotplate/stirrer
* Buret clamp (should have rubber jaws to hold grip on the flask, I don't like metal touching glass, or you can wrap plumbers tape around the jaws or the neck of the flask.) It's easy to find buret clamps with rubber coated jaws for about $7.
* 125 to 250 ML erlenmeyer flask
* distilled water and pipette to "dropper the drops of water in"* 150 ML of pre-dried MEK (dry the mek in the can with dried epsom salts, decant off the top portion of the MEK above the rocks and then filter it thru a #103 filter disc)
* 3 grams of non-pure or dirty mescaline
* boiling stones (alumina or teflon typical boiling stones)
* hotplate with built in magnetic stirrer
* stir bar
* home made fume hood
* open back window
* electronic temperature probe/thermometer (about $12 from dept store, kitchen section), not necessary but handy to measure temp of the water bath.
* fridge and freezer - allow the slow growth of large crystals, move your post-boiled MEK to room temp, then to fridge, then to freezer overnight for the best largest crystal growth.
* fire extinguisher (for safety reasons on standby, can never be too safe)
* sand/wet towel (on standby for safety reasons, can never be too safe)
* safety goggles and gloves
* remember no open flames, no lit pilot lights, no smoking.
The flask shouldn't be touching the bottom of the bowl. It does matter, because if it is touching, then the bottom of the flask will heat up hotter then the rest of the flask. This creates a heat gradient which stresses the glass,it's not as bad as just plucking it on a hot plate, but it's not good for it, and it's more likely to bump. Bumping is when the bottom of the liquid heats up hotter then the top, and then it super boils spraying stuff all over.Constant stirring, or boiling stones help stop this, but bumping is minimized by using a water or oil bath, rather then putting it on the heating element.
when does mescaline/cactus tolerance start?
after consuming cactus, when does tolerance begin? in other words, when, after taking your first dose, can you take the second dose so the effects from the second dose are as strong as the first. i've read that unlike many other drugs, the start of the tolerance for mescaline starts later. not sure how many hours though.... anybody know?
after consuming cactus, when does tolerance begin? in other words, when, after taking your first dose, can you take the second dose so the effects from the second dose are as strong as the first. i've read that unlike many other drugs, the start of the tolerance for mescaline starts later. not sure how many hours though.... anybody know?
PepperSocks
Bluelight Crew
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Generally if you take your dose you should wait 2 hours to see how it hits you. By that time if you feel underwhelmed your best bet is to try again next week at a higher dose. Redosing in the middle of a trip to get to a higher state doesn't work; it just extends the effects.
Any problems with mescaline?
I was thinking of getting some San Pedro. I've heard mescaline is somewhat like a combination of acid and ecstacy. My question is whether there are any of the related problems like ecstacy. Does it cause brain damage? Is there ever a crash in the following days? What reassures me is that unlike ecstacy, it has been used by medicine men for thousands of years. It would be nice to hear from some people who have done it.
I was thinking of getting some San Pedro. I've heard mescaline is somewhat like a combination of acid and ecstacy. My question is whether there are any of the related problems like ecstacy. Does it cause brain damage? Is there ever a crash in the following days? What reassures me is that unlike ecstacy, it has been used by medicine men for thousands of years. It would be nice to hear from some people who have done it.
love_sex_desire
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You seem to be implying that ecstasy causes brain damage. MDMA has not been proven to cause brain damage, and its neurotoxicity is a controversial debate, but many studies seem to indicate that,
"After reviewing the new data reported by Fisher et al., I remain of the opinion that the risk of MDMA neurotoxicity is of no practical significance when typical or even somewhat larger doses of MDMA are used on an infrequent basis in therapeutic, sacramental or recreational contexts by people with normal brain function."
http://www.maps.org/news-letters/v06n1/06108neu.html
Sorry I just wanted to clear that misconception up.
Now onto mescaline:
It seems that it is the opinion of the majority that mescaline does not lead to a horrible crash. Many experience a nice afterglow.
I've only tried mescaline from peyote once and it was a light experience but a very worthwhile experience and I plan to dive deeper into the mescaline realm. I felt a glowing euphoria and everything had a golden glow to it so I could understand why people experience an afterglow.
I've never heard of mescaline being particularly neurotoxic. It doesn't seem to lead to a post-trip crash, but can sometimes cause nausea. It seems pretty safe, as you alluded to earlier:
It has been used by medicine men for thousands of years.
I recommend taking the medicine!
"After reviewing the new data reported by Fisher et al., I remain of the opinion that the risk of MDMA neurotoxicity is of no practical significance when typical or even somewhat larger doses of MDMA are used on an infrequent basis in therapeutic, sacramental or recreational contexts by people with normal brain function."
http://www.maps.org/news-letters/v06n1/06108neu.html
Sorry I just wanted to clear that misconception up.
Now onto mescaline:
It seems that it is the opinion of the majority that mescaline does not lead to a horrible crash. Many experience a nice afterglow.
I've only tried mescaline from peyote once and it was a light experience but a very worthwhile experience and I plan to dive deeper into the mescaline realm. I felt a glowing euphoria and everything had a golden glow to it so I could understand why people experience an afterglow.
I've never heard of mescaline being particularly neurotoxic. It doesn't seem to lead to a post-trip crash, but can sometimes cause nausea. It seems pretty safe, as you alluded to earlier:
It has been used by medicine men for thousands of years.
I recommend taking the medicine!
Feste
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PepperSocks
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It's likely one of the safest drugs there is. It's also incredibly gentle and benevolent. Definitely doesn't cause brain damage. No MDMA-like crash the next day. I find the day after any psychedelic experience I may feel a bit drained and want to just chill out.
Have a read through our Big & Dandy Mescaline/Cactus Thread. Be sure to check out the links in the first page.
Have a read through our Big & Dandy Mescaline/Cactus Thread. Be sure to check out the links in the first page.
I wouldnt really try to compare mescaline to LSD or MDxx, it does have some similarities to both chemicals but the magic of mescaline is definately not what you'd expect with prior experience with MDMA or LSD, its something more deep then either of the previous two really exhibit.
In my experience, there is no real crash assosiated with mescaline, but definately an afterglow.
If you do find yourself feeling sowhat down and out, scattered even, after or towards the tail end of a mescaline trip my advice is, roll a joint and go sit in a nice green park and smoke it. (Daytime if way more prefferable for mescaline IMHO)
If your not feeling very much at peace with the world and your existance after that, then its time for some downers and sleep.
I find the next day reflecting on the experience is almost as enjoyable as the trip itself. =)
In my experience, there is no real crash assosiated with mescaline, but definately an afterglow.
If you do find yourself feeling sowhat down and out, scattered even, after or towards the tail end of a mescaline trip my advice is, roll a joint and go sit in a nice green park and smoke it. (Daytime if way more prefferable for mescaline IMHO)
If your not feeling very much at peace with the world and your existance after that, then its time for some downers and sleep.
I find the next day reflecting on the experience is almost as enjoyable as the trip itself. =)
RhythmSpring
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Hi Daniel
Definitely agree there, definite afterglow. Very benevolent. That said, be respectful.
Definitely agree there, definite afterglow. Very benevolent. That said, be respectful.
pseudononamouse
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Just be careful that plan your sleeping and eating appropriately for the long duration of the trip. If you take it after like 2PM, you might not get much quality sleep. That is about all there is to worry about.
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