• Psychedelic Drugs Welcome Guest
    View threads about
    Posting RulesBluelight Rules
    PD's Best Threads Index
    Social ThreadSupport Bluelight
    Psychedelic Beginner's FAQ

☛ Official ☚ The Big & Dandy Mescaline Extraction thread

haha, it is pretty nasty, especially when you have like 5 cups to drink (last time:eek:). good to hear, good luck with the extraction.
 
mescaline is very heat stable. i typically boil for over 4 hours when i make mine. and i make mescaline tea OFTEN
 
thanks all, love how i can ask a question as im cooking my san pedro and get several answers before its through :)

-mods, you can combine this with the big and dandy if you want. my question has been answered.
 
Out of the first two teks mentioned in this thread who has done them, and to what varying degrees of results? I would love to hear about the two and which is more fool proof without giving up yields.
 
problems with drying san pedro

I am doing an alchohol extraction on 3 ft of fresh san pedro. It was so fresh when i got it that cutting it into stars resulted in the cactus oozing slime. Drying it is taking 4ever! all 3 ft wont even fit in the oven so i have a separate portion in tupperware in the fridge that I havent even gotten going yet. Last night I cooked 2 trays for 4 hrs at 150 and it was still kind of wet. I put it in a bowl and left in in my room covered with plastic wrap and when i woke up there was water on the wrap and the cactus was wet again with a fairly rank smell. It has now been in the oven again for 4 hrs and some pieces seem almost dry others are still wet. Ive got it at 200 now. There is no sun in the forecast so drying outside is not going to happen. I've got to get this stuff dry pronto. Should I up the temp? also i left the skin on which seems almost impossible to remove at this point. If i make powder with the skins will the bad nausiating stuff from the skin end up in the tar extract? help please
 
pieeyedpiper said:
I am doing an alchohol extraction on 3 ft of fresh san pedro. It was so fresh when i got it that cutting it into stars resulted in the cactus oozing slime. Drying it is taking 4ever! all 3 ft wont even fit in the oven so i have a separate portion in tupperware in the fridge that I havent even gotten going yet. Last night I cooked 2 trays for 4 hrs at 150 and it was still kind of wet. I put it in a bowl and left in in my room covered with plastic wrap and when i woke up there was water on the wrap and the cactus was wet again with a fairly rank smell. It has now been in the oven again for 4 hrs and some pieces seem almost dry others are still wet. Ive got it at 200 now. There is no sun in the forecast so drying outside is not going to happen. I've got to get this stuff dry pronto. Should I up the temp? also i left the skin on which seems almost impossible to remove at this point. If i make powder with the skins will the bad nausiating stuff from the skin end up in the tar extract? help please
Click to expand...


dry it at a higher temp
 
Non toxic food safe extraction of mescaline using d-limonene (orange oil)

What you need:

* 100 grams of died cactus, preferably dried green outer flesh with the core, spines, and the thin waxy skin removed from it.
* 25 grams of edible calcium hydroxide (hydrated lime).
* 300 ml of any type of drinking water. Tap water is just fine.
* 900 ml of food grade non-toxic d-limonene (orange oil is about 95% d-limonene and works just fine).
* 150 -225 ml of vinegar.
* 3 coffee filters.
* A large container to hold the cactus mix. It's best to use glass or metal. If plastic is used, HDPE or PP is best. Do not use polystyrene because it dissolves in d-limonene.
* A dish for evaporating your final alkaloid extract in.

Here's the procedure
1 - Powderize your dried cactus. Mix 100 grams of dried powderized cactus with 25 grams of calcium hydroxide. Add 300 ml water to make it feel wet but not watery. Mix for about 5 minutes.

2 - Add 300 ml of d-limonene. Mix well. Let sit a few hours.

3 - Pour off the d-limonene through a filter. (It's really cool if you use a French Coffee Press for this. Using a French Coffee Press you press the cactus mix and squeeze out the d-limonene to get every last drop of d-limonene out. Then filter it through a paper coffee filter.)

4 - Add 25 ml of vinegar to the d-limonene. Mix thoroughly.

5 - Separate the vinegar from the d-limonene (the vinegar is at the bottom, the d-limonene at the top). This vinegar will contain mescaline acetate. Evaporate your vinegar in a food dehydrator at 155 F to get waxy amber slightly impure mescaline acetate.

6 - Repeat steps 4 and 5 at least 2-3 times.

7 - Repeat steps 2 - 6 at least 2 times.

Comments

The great thing about this tech is that is it 100% food grade and non-toxic. You can buy food grade calcium hydroxide at many places, it's often called hydrated lime and is used in cooking (making pickles, tortillas, etc.). Make sure to use non-toxic food grade d-limonene, that way if any d-limonene residue is left behind its safe to ingest it. Use regular white vinegar that is 5% acetic acid.

The result is a waxy amber colored slightly impure mescaline acetate approximately 85-95% pure. It might take a while to dry complete. Have patients.

SWIM has used this tech and got yields you cannot believe. Mescaline acetate is a little waxy, and tends to stick to things. It's texture is not as nice as mescaline HCl which is much more powdery in texture. However, SWIM has found that mescaline acetate is stronger by weight than mescaline HCl. He's not sure why. It should be weaker because it's heavier. I believe it absorbs faster and that's why it's stronger. It definitely comes on much quicker than mescaline HCl does.

The purity of this extraction is good enough for a great trip. You really don't need 99% purity. At about 90% pure, it's concentrated enough to put into gel tabs for a really nice convenient trip without all the bulk of the cactus. At this purity level mescaline acetate is still a little stronger than 99% pure white mescaline HCl. SWIM has both and has compared them many times already. The white 99% pure mescaline is prettier and is not waxy, so it's easier to deal with, but it's less potent with otherwise nearly identical effects.

Note that this tech was developed for San Pedro cactus but should work equally well for Peyote, Achuma, and Peruvian Torch.


Note: this is not my tek. But I have used it and by god does it work something fantastic!
 
8ft-Sativa said:
Non toxic food safe extraction of mescaline using d-limonene (orange oil)

What you need:

* 100 grams of died cactus, preferably dried green outer flesh with the core, spines, and the thin waxy skin removed from it.
* 25 grams of edible calcium hydroxide (hydrated lime).
* 300 ml of any type of drinking water. Tap water is just fine.
* 900 ml of food grade non-toxic d-limonene (orange oil is about 95% d-limonene and works just fine).
* 150 -225 ml of vinegar.
* 3 coffee filters.
* A large container to hold the cactus mix. It's best to use glass or metal. If plastic is used, HDPE or PP is best. Do not use polystyrene because it dissolves in d-limonene.
* A dish for evaporating your final alkaloid extract in.

Here's the procedure
1 - Powderize your dried cactus. Mix 100 grams of dried powderized cactus with 25 grams of calcium hydroxide. Add 300 ml water to make it feel wet but not watery. Mix for about 5 minutes.

2 - Add 300 ml of d-limonene. Mix well. Let sit a few hours.

3 - Pour off the d-limonene through a filter. (It's really cool if you use a French Coffee Press for this. Using a French Coffee Press you press the cactus mix and squeeze out the d-limonene to get every last drop of d-limonene out. Then filter it through a paper coffee filter.)

4 - Add 25 ml of vinegar to the d-limonene. Mix thoroughly.

5 - Separate the vinegar from the d-limonene (the vinegar is at the bottom, the d-limonene at the top). This vinegar will contain mescaline acetate. Evaporate your vinegar in a food dehydrator at 155 F to get waxy amber slightly impure mescaline acetate.

6 - Repeat steps 4 and 5 at least 2-3 times.

7 - Repeat steps 2 - 6 at least 2 times.

(This is not my tek) But have used it and by god does it work something fantastic
Click to expand...

because of the limonene, this tek is not suitable for the budget minded psychonauts, however, it's a great idea
 
Shit I found it for under US$17 a litre!

graphic.php


Citrus turpentine or d-Limonene is a pure, natural, bio-degradable oil solvent produced in Mexico from citrus peel. Once the orange has been juiced, the rind is distilled and then processed through a steam extractor to extract the essential oil.

D-Limonene is a safe and reliable solvent. A little goes a very long way. Just a couple of drops will remove chewing gum from carpet. It can be used to clean a wide variety of oil based substances. It easily penetrates and dissolves all of these substances: Adhesives, asphalt, lipstick, crayon, scuff marks, ball point ink, make up, shoe polish, grease, soap scum, glue, mascara, wax, tar, tyre marks, printer’s ink, oil based paint, putty, sap, hair spray, cooking fat and enamel paint.

As a straight solvent, d-limonene can replace a wide variety of products, including mineral turpentine, methyl ethyl ketone, acetone and toluene.

As with most organic solvents, d-limonene is not water soluble, but by combining it with a surfactant package, a water dilutable and rinsible solution can be made.

Can I post link?
 
8ft-Sativa said:
Shit I found it for under US$17 a litre!

Citrus turpentine or d-Limonene is a pure, natural, bio-degradable oil solvent produced in Mexico from citrus peel. Once the orange has been juiced, the rind is distilled and then processed through a steam extractor to extract the essential oil.

D-Limonene is a safe and reliable solvent. A little goes a very long way. Just a couple of drops will remove chewing gum from carpet. It can be used to clean a wide variety of oil based substances. It easily penetrates and dissolves all of these substances: Adhesives, asphalt, lipstick, crayon, scuff marks, ball point ink, make up, shoe polish, grease, soap scum, glue, mascara, wax, tar, tyre marks, printer’s ink, oil based paint, putty, sap, hair spray, cooking fat and enamel paint.

As a straight solvent, d-limonene can replace a wide variety of products, including mineral turpentine, methyl ethyl ketone, acetone and toluene.

As with most organic solvents, d-limonene is not water soluble, but by combining it with a surfactant package, a water dilutable and rinsible solution can be made.

Can I post link?
Click to expand...

You're sure that's food grade? Also, if that is indeed the cost, that's a lot of money to spend on an extraction.. eating the cactus is free, after all (and a nausea free tek can be performed if alotted a decent amount of time), and preparing it in other ways is also a lot cheaper.
 
The result will be Mescaline acetate 85-95% pure.

A good hit of Mescaline is say .. 300mg. Say our product is 90% pure that will leave 30mg of impurities that could/might contain a small amount of d-Limonene.

I'm sure even if it's not food grade the risk is very minimal.

I'll admit my chemistry knowledge is very limited, but if your really worried couldn't an acetone wash clean it up even more?
 
Oh, and the d-Limonene can be used a few more times over to save money but as with any extraction the yeild will be a little less and less with each use.

I like my mescaline to be in a single capsule rather than a glass of goo . . the taste makes me gag and I just can't stand it. That and it's easier too give your mates a single cap with a smile rather than a cup off goo with a disgusted look on their face :)
 
8ft-Sativa said:
Oh, and the d-Limonene can be used a few more times over to save money but as with any extraction the yeild will be a little less and less with each use.

I like my mescaline to be in a single capsule rather than a glass of goo . . the taste makes me gag and I just can't stand it. That and it's easier too give your mates a single cap with a smile rather than a cup off goo with a disgusted look on their face :)
Click to expand...

honestly, i'd do it this way every time if i had the money.
 
CONTINUING PROBLEMS WITH DRYING SAN PEDRO:

My 3 ft of cactus has spent up to 10 hrs in the oven at temps ranging from 145 to 250. In addition it spent all day in the sun today. It is still for the most part wet as ever. So I think the reason for this is because I although I did de-spine the cactus I left the skin on. Today after letting it roast on the top of my car for 6 + hrs I pulled off the skins on about 20 someodd cactus peices and found a drying in the white areas but found rotten smelling dark green sopping wet sludge underneath the skins. It would appear that the moisture has built up under the skins in the mescaline containing green flesh and concentrated there as the plant material gradually shriveled and decreased in size. Most of the green flesh looks and smells rotten. Some is a lighter shade of green and significantly drier. most however is a dark greenish brown wet sludge that smells like S**T. So my question is: is my cactus ruined? or can I still produce powder and do an alchohol extraction? I can probably strip all the skins off tonight although it will most likely take 5 + hrs. Should I abort a lost cause or proceed?
 
Cut it up into smaller pieces and keep the temp around 200F. That should dry it out. The smaller the pieces the better.
 
http://www.bluelight.ru/vb/showthread.php?t=445475

Re simple ISO/methanol ex, how clear do you usually get the alc before you stop pulling. First few results in extremely dark liquid. Followed by dramatic increase in transparency, and light-green. Is there any reason of continuing...thinking of making 2 batch and using only separate lighter quality liquid as a control test.
 
question about evaporation

SO my san pedro refused to dry entirely and I ended up steeping a sticky mash in 99% iso. I just did the first pull after a 3 day steep. It seems to be loaded since it has a dark black color to it. I will begin evaporation stage in 6 days and have some concerns. I have a gas stove so evaporation in the kitchen is out of the question. My head is currently spinning just from the fumes from the first pull, so I definately don't want this stuff sitting in a glass pan in my room. The weater here is very unpredictable and have no gaurantee of sun. lately it has been cool and raining alot. I can leave it in a dry remote place when it will not be found (abandoned train tunnel) but the temp will probably be a steady 60 degrees or so during the day, 40's at night. I can move it into the sun when it is available. So my question is will it evaporate eventually in a cool temp or does it need heat and/or sun. Like i said I used 99% iso so this stuff has got to be gone entirely before I consume. What are my options in this climate with no use of the kitchen?
 
^don't put it in sun. the iso should evaporate very quick, use a small room fan blowing air over the tray to increase. if you don't have a room with a fuck ton of windows, you coud try pointing the fan towards a window...

if you use something like 91%, then all the alcohol will evaporate quickly, with a small amount of water that takes forever to dry. when you can't smell acohol anymore, it's safe to put it in the over at like 150...but you have 99 so just use a fan.

have you had any results/luck so far? i started an iso extraction last week, got them all capsuled and took them tuesday morning. terrible results...major bubble gut, multiple vomiting, and very little effects. it was easier to get down more than the tea, but i never throw up with the tea. i ended up just brewing a batch of the tea and using that.... d-limonene, here i come!

kinda disappointed my body rejected it. :\
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top