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Surfers Unite!

ch0psy

ch0psy

Bluelight Crew
Joined
Jan 31, 2004
Messages
6,773
Location
Sydney, Australia
So... do you surf???

what do you surf?

where do you surf?

any tips, advice, websites whatever!!!

Im only still new to it.

I got a 7S Aussie Fish 6'11" x 21 n 1/4's x 2 n 3/8's, with 3 Fin FCS G5's

Got the creatures Mick Fanning grip...

Surf at my local beach which is only 200 metres away.

im guessing this thread is going to go no where as i doubt there will be minimal surfers on BL
 
fuck no

i hate bondi

bondi is the dead end of the world to me...

but for some reason, its the only beach people know of in Sydney... so yeah, it sucks!
 
well captain, im from the shire... which doesnt leave you with much choice... espically to the fact that i said i surf at my local beach which is only 200 metres away

so i will give you one guess now!

it is hard... but its fun... and a great workout!

there were 3 hammerhead sharks spotted off the beach near my house last week, one that was approx 2.5 metres that was about 5 metres away from a surfer!
 
At present a large tropical low (not quite a cyclone ) is situated about 50km north of my weekender. Swell of 4-5m expected over the next couple of days. Too heavy for my mini mal... :(

Current state of affairs out the front door...
0,23816,5028546-17382-4,00.html



1/2 hour down the road at a Northly protected Noosa spot though...
0,23816,5028546-17382-48,00.html

and....
surf012_t520x340.jpg


At present down the coast only the pro's are being towed in at Kirra and Snapper... (note this is an old shot of Kirra, but you get the idea)...

8071.jpg


5hrs of work then I'm back up the coast.....:D
 
I surf a 6'10" Goodtime funboard shaped by Neil Purchase. I've been surfing about 3 years and I suck. Basically I can stand up and ride a wave but I'm still trying to do a big turns or anything half decent. I also lose my sack at about 5 foot and tend to go over the falls more than I should at waves bigger than that.

However I surf about twice a week, normally at either the The Spit, Tallabudera, Kirra, or Greenmount. My favourite at present is Tally as you can usually find a decent bank and there are not normally too many people to impale with my stick.

My favourite wave is Kirra. It doesn't always generate however the picture above is a good indication of what happens when it's good. The best thing is that most people think it's still shithouse from the sand pumping and never turn up. You can have barrels all morning and there will be just you and your mate. Perfect! Watching set upon set roll through with no one around is the bomb.

Tips....don't drink lot's before an early sesh...
 
Surfed Kirra today....or tried. My mate is borrowing my board for a photo shoot so had to use my spare booga. Bad idea.... I'm not used to fins at the best of times but today the paddle out was about 100m. It was 6 or 7ft but a little bit washy and closing out after a decent barrel. I got about 80m out before really starting to losing my breath and feeling really tired from the fins and also paddling. Two waves smashed me and I was held down for a bit and took on a fair bit of water. The third wave smashed me again and with more water on board I was sure I had taken my last breath. I tried to wave for help but there was a surfcomp on and no lifeguards close by so I was on my own. Luckily I made it back to shore and lay in the shallows for a while as I couldn't get up and was spewing water. It took me around an hour to feel better and to get my breath back.

I blame being pretty unfit after a months worth of drinking since christmas and also smoking like a chimney when normally I don't. Time to get fit! Otherwise the repercussions will be huge...

On the up side, MP signed my board! On the downside, it was my gay Bodyboard.
 
ugh, be careful man. shallow water blackout is not a fun experience.
 
chopped_chimp said:
On the up side, MP signed my board! On the downside, it was my gay Bodyboard.
Click to expand...

Micheal Peterson signed a boogie board? His mental illness must be worse than reported...;)

Swell should settle by this weekend... which without the kids means I should surf until the skin on my shoulders peal away.

Gotta get myself a smaller short board, too big for the mini mal of late. Been looking at a cool brand new twin fin retro job. They are almost cheaper than a second hand thruster from cash converters these days.
 
Busty St Clare said:
Micheal Peterson signed a boogie board? His mental illness must be worse than reported...;)
Click to expand...

I know! I'm considering putting it on ebay....I bet it's the only booga in existence with his sig on it! lol %)

I've gotta say.....he's put on some beef. Can't see him finding a board that would even hold his weight these days....

I'm thinking about a shorter board too. Can you post a pic of the one you're looking at?

atri said:
ugh, be careful man. shallow water blackout is not a fun experience.
Click to expand...

I'll bet. Do you know from experience...? I got out as fast as I could but it was still pretty slow going as I was completely wrecked.
 
yeah, when i was in the military we had to do SWB's as a training exercise so that we wouldnt freak out when/if it happened to us in the field.
 
Something like this CC...

twin_3_bottom.jpg


twin_3_deck.jpg


These ones from Byron Bay's morning of the earth are custom painted so cost a little more than what I'want, but you get the idea.

Not great in huge surf (they say fine up to 6 foot) which is fine with me as I'm lazy and unfit and never plan to catch monsters. Being twin fin means they do slide and turn a bit, but I'm after something that I can manouvre in the surf a little faster than the mal but still in keeping with my old man hipster, cool vibe ;) .
 
^That looks sick man! I like the idea of that type of board but would love to test one before I purchased it. No idea if I could control it with only two fins...
 
A shaper here on the Sunny coast has a few demo boards that you can take out for a spin.

As for control it's a little like having loose trucks on a skateboard... the tail slides more. There is a reason the pro's all compete with thrusters though so you have to factor that in.
 
Fuck all of you who dont like bodyboards/ers, your all fat, old men who can only get up on a mal! Id love to see one of those smartass standup surfers do an invert after being spat out of a heaving 8ft barrel. Its not going to happen.
 
^^"Smartass standup surfers" lol, are we smartass's because we can stand up and you can't?

You sound like my mate.... He's always trying to justify why bodyboarding is better too... You all seem to have a complex over it. I've got to admit, it is a lot easier. I'd rather be standing on top of the wave though. I have both and much prefer surfing. I generally only use the booga if it's closing out or I don't feel like trying too hard.

Do you want a buy an MP signed Manta Cobra off me...?
 
I dont think either are easier or harder, I dont think either are better and its the person riding the board that matters, theres a bunch of bodyboarders that I fuckin hate and some stand up surfers are some of my best friends, I can stand up but I choose not to because I can only get barrelled and do turns on a standup, no airs. On a bodyboard I can drop-knee(IMHO definitely harder than surfing) get barrelled, do airs and turns. I agree surfing is fucking hard, but real bodyboarding is in no way easy. Their both just different.
 
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