• Cannabis Discussion Welcome Guest
    Posting Rules Bluelight Rules

[MEGA]Growing advice, tips, tricks and experience: Mark 3

Status
Not open for further replies.
Some new pics. They seem to be enjoying this warm weather lately :)

3.jpg

22.jpg

21.jpg
 
Fuck, I wish I could just put my plants out in the garden like that. Still, I'll have completed my greenhouse by this weekend (touch wood), and with a bit of bubblewrap insulation, I'll be able to grow without anyone being able to see in.

So far the ground is level with sand and gravel and the base has been built. Now it's just a case of constructing the frame and cladding it.

This might be a silly question, but you see that mound of waste dirt on the left hand side? Where should I get rid of this? Can I just put it in bin bags and throw it out with the rubbish?

attachment.php
 
Last edited:
^ too hide the view inside? If you mean that, then no, as the louvre vents will be right next to the fence, at the bottom gable end. The bubblewrap insulation should block the view, hopefully. I'm hoping a single layer will work, however I may need to double up. This will let less light in, but will keep the heat in twice as well, meaning I might need to use a grow light (which would mean I would need less heat from a heater anyway).
 
Ahh ok sweet as. Ill look forward to seeing it completed :) As for that pile of dirt, just wheelbarrow it away and dump in somewhere.
 
I just doubled up on my methadone dose, so once it starts peaking in my bloodstream I'm going to start finishing it.
 
hi AE just pm you but you cant accept it you got to many your so popular ha, any way fuck it, im doing a detox off meth now im 5 days in, got britlofex, vallies, buscapan, and dfs but fuck i want some gear now, the wife is still in bed and ive been up inc 4 so we are very similar eh, wat dose of meth you on my friend?
 
60mg, so I just had a dose of 120mg! I do it every week, taking Sunday's dose on Monday and then every day up until the following Saturday, when I collect the whole week's worth of methadone, I delay the dose by 3 hours, so that by the time it's Saturday I'll be due to take my dose at 9PM. It's a little trick I learned and it works for me, even though I'm sure many would critisize it. But hey, I don't give a fuck - it's my life and I'm not hurting anyone. I have stability in my life doing this so why shouldn't I do it?

I'll try and empty my PM box of some messages. I need to reply to mindetergent anyway (sorry for the delay MD!).

Anyway, as for the wheelbarrow suggestion, I've decided to get one of these bad boys instead:
ST05472i.jpg


That way I can easily wheel it long distances and because it can be dismantled, it'll come in very useful for my guerrilla grow, I'm sure! If I can rig it up so that I can steer it, I'll be able to ride it down hills on the journey to and back from the guerrilla site along with all my equipment, compost, coir bales and possibly water if I need it. Talk about being handy - you get a form of transport and something that allows you to carry your stuff all in one!
 
Last edited:
Shit, I knew I saw one of these that was quite heavily reduced when I was shopping in Tonbridge. All the ones I can find online are usually really expensive. This one from Robert Dyas seems to be reduced from the cost of what they usually cost (expensive) to half price. I saw it in the shop and it was flat packed (good for storage I think) and seemed really good quality.

Here it is:
148837_a.jpg


I'll have a look around, but I think I might go for it when I can afford it.

I also want to buy a garden shredder so I can compost properly (you need to have a constant supply of shredded wood made with a garden shredder from garden twigs/brances) to maintain proper aeration of the compost and prevent it from becoming a soggy mess. This will cost me quite a bit. I just missed the sale at Lidl (they had one but I was 5 minutes late, as another customer got there first, the damn bastard!! lol). So I'll probably have to pay a double digit figure for it - not too expensive but not cheap.

Last night I placed an order for a compost tumbler. They allow you to compost organic waste materials like kitchen scraps and weeds, leaves and foliage in about half the time, as the tumbling action of tumbling it with the hand crank and the fins that agitate the material constantly aerate it more than a conventional compost heap. It's also all contained inside the tumbler so there are no smells and mice or other vermin can't get to it. Worms can't get to it, but this isn't a problem if it's used as a mulch, as the worms incorporate it into the soil naturally since it attracts them to the surface (good for your plants anyway). Alternatively it can be put into a normal composter so that the worms finish it off, or it can be vermicomposted in a wormery (I'm going to build a commercial-scaled wormery with an old chest freezer someone is giving me for free soon, so I'll be able to vermicompost on a large scale!). I got it so cheaply it's rediculous, since it was on sale on Tesco Direct's website (I got a load of clubcard points too, which was a bonus!).

SS10207-2128TPS581732.jpg


I'm also going to build a cheap and simple leaf mould bin, probably today or next weekend, using chicken wire and four fence posts. This is probably one of the most valued materials a gardener can have.

I think compost, composted manure and leaf mould are so important to the health of your plants that if you're a real gardener it is a necessity. If you're guerrilla growing, you'll never get plants that reach their full potential unless you ammend the soil or mulch it regularly with masses of one of these organic materials. The manure is very good for adding nutrients to the soil and improving structure, whereas the leaf mould offers little in the way of nutrients (typically having almost nutrients). However, it improves soil structure so much, by making it retain water whilst allowing it to drain more freely and sequestering carbon in the soil so much that it always will make your plants grow like crazy. Compost does add nutrients but is not so hot, and it also improves the structure. Ammending your soil with any of these will over the long term make your soil lovely to work with, so much that it will be crumbly and soft while being open and friable at the same time. It really is a must, especially since leaf mould and compost are so easy to make. All you need are free leaves (you can even make it just using bin liners, as I have said before) or a compost bin made from old bits of wood (like old pallets). Alternatively compost tumblers or plastic bins can be bought for very little money indeed, from DIY stores (they're usually cheaper in the larger DIY chains or from places online who will deliver for little cost).

Another important soil conditioner is seaweed. If you live by the sea, put on your wellies and wade into the shallow sea (not too far, as you don't want to get wet unecessarily). Pick out seaweed (any will do, but some are better than others, although this is not too important) and fill bin liners with as much as you can. When you get home, hose them off with water as much as possible. Then soak them, throwing away the water and refilling daily, to get rid of all the salt. Once it's clean enough, literally dig it into your soil. Within a few weeks (sometimes as little as 2 1/2 weeks), it will break down in your soil completely. Again, it improves the structure in a favourable way, but also is magical, since it adds amazing plant hormones that directly enhance plant growth (hence it's termed a 'biostimulant') by adding cytokinins, gibberellins and other plant hormones, as well as some plant-available nutrients - particularly potassium. Alternatively it can be used to make homemade, organic seaweed extract to use as foliar sprays (soil or hydroponic grows) or soil drenches or can of course be added to the compost heap to make supercharged compost.

I also wanted to share with you guys a recipe/method for making a special seedling mix that can be used to root cuttings. It's called 'cardboard mould', akin to leaf mould since it acts in a similar way but is also a good performing medium like peat, despite the way in which it is made and what it is made from. This method completely avoids the issue of stray weed seeds from homemade composts based on loam and garden composts. You make this seed compost by layering grass mowings with cardboard:

Alternate very thin layers (an inch or so) of freshly cut grass with a later of corrugated cardboard. At this ratio there is just enough air and absorption in the cardboard to mop up the juices from the grass and aerate the grass; you can do this in any garden composter.

* When it starts to slump down, dig it out, mix it up and re-stack it.

* Use two parts cardboard mould with one part silver sand (sharp sand) to make up your seed compost.

Water the seedlings with seaweed seaweed extract to provide essential minerals - they should be moved out (pricked out) of the seed compost into a potting mix when they have their first true leaves.

I can guarantee you that this medium will perform as well as or even better than any seedling mix you can buy from a fancy grow shop or even from the garden centre! Try it, you won't be disappointed! Just be sure to sieve it with a 1/4" riddle before use, to get the nice crumbly/airy/fluffy consistency required for seeds to flourish.
 
Last edited:
So I didn't finish building the greenhouse, but I'm about half way there.

I've built both ends, and all I need to do is construct the middle section, put them together and clad it. This should be completed by the end of tomorrow, hopefully.

attachment.php


attachment.php
 
Last edited:
It's really annoying that it gets dark so early. If the sun were out for longer I would probably have been able to finish it today!

I should get a floodlight or something, for general use so I can deal with this sort of thing after dark.
 
Hey guys i managed to score a 600wt haylight I've got a small shed out the back and was wondering what a good number of plants to grow under it? i've got about 100 seeds all the same strain as im growing with outdoor now really hardy plant can take alot of abuse :) also where can i get a ballest box and how much am i looking at?

@joshe your babys are doing well mate you should get some decent smoke off em ;)
 
Last edited:
Used to, But now cause im soon applying for a well paying job (mines). Gotta quit
 
that sucks.. i work with mines now and then and they dont do piss tests ;)
 
Last edited:
Hey guys i managed to score a 600wt haylight I've got a small shed out the back and was wondering what a good number of plants to grow under it? i've got about 100 seeds all the same strain as im growing with outdoor now really hardy plant can take alot of abuse :) also where can i get a ballest box and how much am i looking at?

@joshe your babys are doing well mate you should get some decent smoke off em ;)

Found this for you mate:

I think the easiest way to work out the best pot size and plant numbers is to first look at what bulb you are using, and I'm using hps bulbs as my base and a 3ft x 3ft or 4ft x 4ft space, and whether plant numbers are a concern for you or just not practical

Work out how many ounces that bulb could and will produce if your grow practices are good. Averaging 1grm/watt as a rough guide

EG..600grms = 21oz so if using 9 plants 600/9 = 66grms/plant which is just over 2oz. A 6.5ltr pot whether in compost or coco will produce that size of plant consistently if like I said earlier its grown in a good environment. I cant see the point of using big pots if only needing a couple of ounces per plant. By the time a large pot has rooted out the plant will probably be too big and you will have had to top or supercrop to keep the height down plus its just wasted time

If using 4 plants then you would look for them to yield over 5oz/plant so then you would need at least an 11-15ltr if in compost but you would get away with 11ltr in coco. Coco tends to out yield compost by more when you get to the bigger pots. Training would mostly be used for smaller numbers to fill the canopy

You also have to take into consideration vegging times. Obviously if you need a crop off quick then its no good using big pots because your vegging times would be longer so smaller pots would be the order of the day. Smaller pots are better also when height becomes a problem

If using sea of green then you could if practical fit 100 plants in there in 1ltr pots but it should still yield the same as 4 plants seeing its the light that governs your yield to a great extent but you would have no vegging time

At the moment I have a 1000w in a 4ft x 4ft space. Ive put 16 plants in coco in there and I'm looking at around 2oz per plant so chose 6.5 ltr pots

So there's a few things that you need to look at before deciding, and then decide on what's practical for you

Get a 600W magnetic ballast (I use a Maxibright ballast), so if you live in the UK go for this brand and you'll be okay. It's best if you make sure it can accept HPS and MH lights, so you don't have to buy two.

You'll also need a contactor (relay) to switch the ballast off and on, since the ballast will fuse the contacts of the timer together. In my opinion digital ballasts aren't worth the money they cost. When they're cheaper in the next couple of years they might start to be, although at the moment a magnetic one is perfectly okay.
 
Last edited:
^^^Thanks alot mate i live in australia so im not sure if that brand is here although i'll keep a eye out for it.....I'll go down to my hydro store sometime this week and see how much a 600W magnetic ballast will put me back.....Also i have a spare room in my house with a robe in it.Would it be better to grow in the robe or out the back in our shed????
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top