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[MEGA] Every Year's Community Growing advice, tips, tricks, & experiences

what medium are you using again?
this can affect the most stable, pure nutrients given, for starters by messing with the PH retaining too much water, rotting the roots.

you can get stuff that eats up dead roots, "fluffs" the soil, and promotes micro bio activity.
when you transplanted, how did the roots look?
i didnt notice if you use superthrive for shock treatment at all.

one last thing, you should try grow bags, or smart pots.ive been using the same variety of bags for many different plants over a year now... good stuff.
 
Try and buy a bottle of Biobizz fishmix. It hasn't deteriorated in quality like almost all of their other products over the years and will make the microherd go crazy with life but that's besides the point. It's particularly useful as a foliar spray and is used at a rate of 1ml/L to deal with issues like this. If you've been feeding it regularly and using enough nutrient then it could be a number of issues such as lockout. As such, if this is the case then a foliar spray would only be a temporary fix.

Foliar nutrient sprays are the best way of dealing with nutrient deficiencies in the quickest possible way.
 
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panic in paradise said:
what medium are you using again?
this can affect the most stable, pure nutrients given, for starters by messing with the PH retaining too much water, rotting the roots.

you can get stuff that eats up dead roots, "fluffs" the soil, and promotes micro bio activity.
when you transplanted, how did the roots look?
i didnt notice if you use superthrive for shock treatment at all.

one last thing, you should try grow bags, or smart pots.ive been using the same variety of bags for many different plants over a year now... good stuff.
Click to expand...


I've been suggesting that he get a bottle of Hygrozyme. That stuff is terrific. It is a medium cleanser..meant to eat dead roots and cleanse the soil of the plant's waste. Some people may not realize it, but plants do give off waste and it collects in the soil, so a product like Hygrozyme is terrific. I've been using it for years. Also, flushing with plain water after 2 feedings or so will really help as well..unless your 100% organic, then I suppose there is no need to flush every 3rd watering...I just happen to like giving a good watering of plain clean water after a couple of heavy feedings.

I agree foliar feeding your plants is essenstial. I foliar feed during veg and also a few weeks into flowering. During veg, I make up a spray with the Grow fert about a 150-200 PPM solution, there are other things like AE mentioned that you can foliar feed with as well. During flower, actually a week before I change to 12/12, I start to foliar feed w/ Humboldt's Ginormous, it helps speed the transition and then I use it til like the 3rd or 4th week, then I don't spary anything on the newly forming buds.
 
yeah, are you talking about Canna nutes? i use their "boost/accelerator"(vennese), and Earth Juice-Catalyst (fluffer/fermenting/foliar), safely as a foliar spray on orchid flowers with no burn, and in my Neem, Azomax, or homegrown tobacco & chili oil insecticide when necessary, or planted freshly established tobacco, rose, or mmj stretchers.

love it.
;)
 
I nuted heavily (heavy for me anyways) 2 1/2 tsp per gal (suggests 2-3 for normal feeding, 4 for heavy)
Kept my nutes around 6.2-6.8 , Ive been trying to keep my pH higher around 6.7-6.8.
As it seems my pH was a little bit low, (or so I was thinking)

You all have suggested alot of different products.
Anyone know what I should get, Im a little confused..

And again, Im growing in FoxFarms Ocean Forest. or whatever.

Kinda curious., I had 1 gal of water , added 2 1/2 tsp of nutes, and that brought my water down to 6.0, should I put base to bring the pH back up or should I just water it with what the nutes put the water to and let the soil buffer this water and even out the pH?

And the problem on the Northern lights is quickly going up the plant ...VERY quickly. All of those lower leaves have died, but the strange part is, the stems are VERY well connected to the plant. The leaves may be completely yellow and brown, but the stem is completely connected to the plant, its really difficult to pull the leaves off,
In the past, when I've had yellowing leaves and stuff, the plants leaves would just pull off with barely even a tug,

Anyways, sorry all for bothering you with so many problems....

Another question, Under my 600 watter, can I flower 7 plants? My northern Lights got upsized to a 3 gal, its a bit hard to keep as close to the light as the rest of the plants.
 
YES. Adjust the PH back up to 6.7 after adding the nutes, atleast that is what I do. Everyone has their opinions on PH and also some strains are more sensative to PH flucuations. Even those those leaves aren't just falling off easily, you can just take hold of the main stalk and then snap those older discolored leaves off. If these symptoms are spreading up your plant, that is NOT GOOD..you have some sort of disease or the plant is severely lacking something. Have you checked over that Northern VERY WELL for any spidermites? I know you did things to treat the spidermites earlier, but those buggers are alot harder to get rid of than you think.

Prelude you added 2 1/2 tsp of WHAT? The FF Grow? Since your vegging, I would assume you are using the FF Grow.
 
7 is pushing it, in a SOG type arrangement no problem. watch the container size with the rest...

go for it, but, in the future pruning and tranning so your girls are basically one thick cola would be ideal. NL is ideal for this.
use smaller 5-6L containers, a low retaining soil/soiless mix, a 10 gallon revoir, timer, pump, low nutes, 10' 1/2 IUD white vinyl main line, air pump, bubble stone, and spaghetti drip feeders, drip stakes, a decent pump running maybe 1 minute in morning, and one at lunch.

you can slowly accumulate this stuff cheap, its essentially what ive settled on, if in hydro ill vegetate with ebb and flood, then the drip for flower. ill set the soil containers along side if the plant demands it.

all Canna and Earth Juice, plus always a very long lasting bottle of Super Thrive, clones/seedlings love this, vegetating plants, foliar spray, spray roots with it during transplant. look for either, but the red lake stuff has a lot of Vit. B. one two or three drops per gallon, very distinctive smell, youll recognize it, smells like a nursery.
Super Thrive is in almost any garden center, a bit pricey, but should last a couple years with frequent use.

NL with its branches pruned and trained through out vegetation, you could fit maybe 10-12.
once you get in a rhythm flowering becomes boring almost, and vegetating is more hands on. once you find your strain(s), and personal method it meetings auto,,, second nature if you will...
;)
 
mr.muncheez said:
I've been suggesting that he get a bottle of Hygrozyme. That stuff is terrific. It is a medium cleanser..meant to eat dead roots and cleanse the soil of the plant's waste. Some people may not realize it, but plants do give off waste and it collects in the soil, so a product like Hygrozyme is terrific. I've been using it for years. Also, flushing with plain water after 2 feedings or so will really help as well..unless your 100% organic, then I suppose there is no need to flush every 3rd watering...I just happen to like giving a good watering of plain clean water after a couple of heavy feedings.

I agree foliar feeding your plants is essenstial. I foliar feed during veg and also a few weeks into flowering. During veg, I make up a spray with the Grow fert about a 150-200 PPM solution, there are other things like AE mentioned that you can foliar feed with as well. During flower, actually a week before I change to 12/12, I start to foliar feed w/ Humboldt's Ginormous, it helps speed the transition and then I use it til like the 3rd or 4th week, then I don't spary anything on the newly forming buds.
Click to expand...

I'm quite fond of Hygrozyme. It's superior to the only other major competing product, Cannazyme. Cannazyme is terrible in comparison to Hygrozyme IMO.

Foliar feeding is really underutilised by growers. It should be used more since it's so effective. It can really reduce your nutrient costs. Although (if you're not suffering deficiencies) it's not 100% necessary, when you invariably run into problems like you have Prelude, it's invaluable.

Another point that mr muncheeze made is to not spray buds. Do not under any circumstances do this, unless you want bud rot!!

Edit: if you're buying neem as mentioned above be careful, since most of the neem oil products you can buy (particularly those aimed at cannabis growers) are extracted using harmful chemicals. You want to make sure you get cold-extracted neem oil that is organic. This is important. Neem cake when added to the soil will kill/prevent fungus gnats, pathogens and will help the microherd flourish in a big way. It's so cost effective (in the UK there's a product called Greenit). £5 worth of this organic product will literally last for years!!

edit: Here's the neem I'm talking about. They ship to the US so if you spend $20 or above it is worth having it shipped. Greenit Neem Fertiliser

I'm no fan of superthrive after seeing side by side sog trials where it's been tested on hundreds of plants. It just don't work IMO.

Of course all of these products are not needed Prelude. I think the thread's gone on a bit of a tangent when you just asked how to fix your nutrient deficiency problem. All you need is the fertiliser you have already. For a foliar spray dilute it more than you would use in a soil drench and you're good to go.
 
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I just installed an autotopup valve on my Grow Tank. When the nutrient solution falls below a certain point as the plants take up water/nutrients, the float valve opens and RO water from a standard water butt tops up the solution level. In this way I'm able to leave my Grow Tank for extended periods of time without any problem. I'm going away to Poland this Christmas for four or five days and I'll be able to leave it without any worries at all!

As the plants take up water, the EC (ppm for you yanks) increases, so as RO water is added it goes down again. In this way, EC and pH should be regulated to some extent, allowing me to leave it and not worry as the values will always be within an acceptable range for the plants.

Autotopupfloatvalve.jpg
 
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Wow AE your growing techniques are a cut above most people, great job! I haven't had the time nor the guts to switch to a hydro set-up, its definitely not as forgiving as soil. Another reason to foliar feed with the lights off is because the droplets of water on the leaves act as a magnifying glass and you will burn your leaves. I foliar feed either an hour or so after the light turns off or about an hour or so before it turns on.

Prelude..you haven't answered what have you been feeding your plants..you said 2 1/2 tsp per gallon, but of which nute? 1 tsp is 5ml's, so essentially you put in 15ml's per gallon, if it was the FF Grow, I think you are putting in too much. I know earlier on, you gave them the FF Bigbloom, I hope you have tapered off giving it just bigbloom, cause there definitely isn't enough of what they need in just the BigBloom.
 
For every article like that, you can find others that suggest foliar spraying with the lights off, or atleast turn the lights off while they are wet, then turn it back on again after an hour. It's known that the water droplets magnify from the light intensity of the MH or HPS lights...we're not talking about outdoors under the sun. Indoor plants are much closer to the lights.
 
Thanks for the kind comments mr muncheez but I still consider myself somewhat of a novice. I guess it's all relative in the scheme of things.

Hydro growing can be really easy though. Why not try a hempy bucket with fytocell? Simple does not mean inferior. In fact, people using this method have been known to reach or often exceed the gold standard, a gram per watt. You can water it daily in the same way you would water soil i.e. with a watering can. If you set up a water butt with a floom pump to aerate it and use a sprayer connected to a pump you can water it within seconds (it's quite therapeutic/satisfying doing it this way and isn't tedious and awkward like using a watering can is). All you need to do is add nutrients and adjust pH which you're doing anyway so it's not much of a leap. I would do this over using compost any day, especially if you're not using organic nutrients in soil.
 
mr.muncheez said:
It's known that the water droplets magnify from the light intensity of the MH or HPS lights...we're not talking about outdoors under the sun. Indoor plants are much closer to the lights.
Click to expand...
A sunny day creates more lumens than any bulb ever could.

I pretty much always foliar feed or spray pesticides with the lights on. Never noticed any burning. How do you explain that?

It's a pretty engrained myth dude. You haven't convinced me, but I guess I haven't convinced you either. Just try it out for yourself. If you burn your plants, you're probably overfeeding, that's all.
 
It's actually a petty thing to even debate. Ofcourse the Sun is stronger than any bulb, but your also talking about plants being much much closer when grown indoors. Have you ever seen bleach or crispy spots on outdoor bud??NO. But if you keep your plants to close to a 600 MH or HPS, you will see bleaching/crisping...that's gotta tell ya something. IF your plants are fine spraying them with the lights on, then cool..have at it. I'll just do things the way I have been cause it works for me.
 
Artificial Emotion said:
Thanks for the kind comments mr muncheez but I still consider myself somewhat of a novice. I guess it's all relative in the scheme of things.

Hydro growing can be really easy though. Why not try a hempy bucket with fytocell? Simple does not mean inferior. In fact, people using this method have been known to reach or often exceed the gold standard, a gram per watt. You can water it daily in the same way you would water soil i.e. with a watering can. If you set up a water butt with a floom pump to aerate it and use a sprayer connected to a pump you can water it within seconds (it's quite therapeutic/satisfying doing it this way and isn't tedious and awkward like using a watering can is). All you need to do is add nutrients and adjust pH which you're doing anyway so it's not much of a leap. I would do this over using compost any day, especially if you're not using organic nutrients in soil.
Click to expand...

Once I get the right set-up someday, I may try straight hydro, we'll see. For now, with my hectic schedule and not being able to keep close monitoring on a hydro set-up, just using a B'Cuzz Coco & Roots Organic mix works best for me. Plus the plants love that B'Cuzz Coco for some reason, it's not the bricks that you have to break up, it's already broken up and it's silky smooth, that stuff rocks!!. I am going to my local store in next week, I may go with just the B'Cuzz Coco, im not sure, but whatever I did this time around gave me great results, so I may just duplicate everything I did.
 
^ Just out of curiosity, why aren't you using a coco nutrient with coco? They're designed with the cation exchange capacity of coco in mind. Or is your nutrient designed for coco (I wouldn't know since I'm not sure it's available in the UK)?

If you want organic coco nutrients, Hesi coco nutrients such as TNT complex has 100% organic nitrogen and will give sweet tasting weed just like any other organic nutrient.
 
I would recommend any fertilizer based on (naturally organic) seaweed extract...

obviously it depends on how big your plants are regarding how many you can fit under a light, tho some of the more expensive reflectors will make a difference. But when you put them into flower they're going to grow a lot bigger anyway... Under a standard reflector, I would reckon you'd be looking at 4-5 plants in 3gallon buckets, if put into flower at 24" tall, producing 4-5oz dried bud each. but theres no reason why you couldn't fit a lot more in if in smaller pots, you'd just get a lower yield per plant.. It is probably a good idea tho to try and keep things as simple as possible therefore try and repot all plants together so they're all in the same size pots and therefore easier to manage... obviously thats tricky in your case because your plants are different sizes and ages but thats something to think about in the future.

with regard to ph as long as its between 6.0 and 7.5 everything should be OK, but the following link provides some interesting information.

http://www.greenmanspage.com/guides/phfacts.html

In the photos above the leaves seem to be drooping suggesting the plants need more water, you seem to have been erring on the side of caution regarding nutrient dosages so maybe its time to up the dose a little, both the NLs look like they need repotting although you've already done one of them, hope you gave the soil a good drenching when you repotted...
 
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Most composts are peat-based and as such are naturally acidic. This is why the mixes have enough lime added to bring the mix up to ph 6.5 after a period of interaction, that is where the mix stabilises, or put another way it is the mixed ingredients buffer level, ie a point where there is no longer an interaction between the individual ingredients.

If you keep feeding a slightly acidic liquid feed the alkaline ingredients will react bringing up the ph level at the roots to 6.5, it would take many months of feeding acidic nutrients before enough lime was neutralised for the buffer level to drop to 6.4, in fact the plants would have been cropped long before. So you don't need to ph your feed with compost as long as the compost has been made properly. It also works the other way if your tap water is high ph, the actual amounts of lime are really very small, the acidic parts of the compost will react bringing back the ph balance.

It does not happen quickly, the chemistry is very slow. This is why run through means nothing, it is where the ph of the liquid within the rootball stabilises that matters, this can take hours, its a slow process.

This is just my opinion and I know some of you disagree, but I thought I'd share it anyway.
 
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