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[MEGA]Community Growing advice, tips, tricks, & experiences Part 5 (2012-2013)

Don't get me wrong, you should do whatever you think works for you mate but I'm just saying it's definitely not something I would do or recommend because healthy leaves are what the plant uses to produce energy from the light it receives so it can actually grow.

Here's some info from the famous Robert Clarke in his seminal book, 'Marijuana Botany':

Leafing is one of the most misunderstood techniques
of drug Cannabis cultivation. In the mind of the cultivator,
several reasons exist for removing leaves. Many feel that
large shade leaves draw energy from the flowering plant,
and therefore the flowering clusters will be smaller. It is
felt that by removing the leaves, surplus energy will be
available, and large floral clusters will be formed. Also,
some feel that inhibitors of flowering, synthesized in the
leaves during the long noninductive days of summer, may
be stored in the older leaves that were formed during the
noninductive photoperiod. Possibly, if these inhibitor-laden
leaves are removed, the plant will proceed to flower, and
maturation will be accelerated. Large leaves shade the inner
portions of the plant, and small atrophied floral clusters
may begin to develop if they receive more light.

In actuality, few if any of the theories behind leafing
give any indication of validity. Indeed, leafing possibly
serves to defeat its original purpose. Large leaves have a
definite function in the growth and development of Can-
nabis. Large leaves serve as photosynthetic factories for the
production of sugars and other necessary growth sub-
stances. They also create shade, but at the same time they
are collecting valuable solar energy and producing foods
that will be used during the floral development of the
plant. Premature removal of leaves may cause stunting,
because the potential for photosynthesis is reduced. As
these leaves age and lose their ability to carry on photo-
synthesis they turn chloro tie (yellow) and fall to the
ground. In humid areas care is taken to remove the yellow
or brown leaves, because they might invite attack by fun-
gus. During chlorosis the plant breaks down substances,
such as chlorophylls, and translocates the molecular com-
ponents to a new growing part of the plant, such as the
flowers. Most Cannabis plants begin to lose their larger
leaves when they enter the flowering stage, and this trend
continues until senescence. It is more efficient for the plant
to reuse the energy and various molecular components of
existing chlorophyll than to synthesize new chlorophyll at
the time of flowering. During flowering this energy is
needed to form floral clusters and ripen seeds.

Removing large amounts of leaves may interfere with
the metabolic balance of the plant. If this metabolic change
occurs too late in the season it could interfere with floral
development and delay maturation. If any floral inhibitors
are removed, the intended effect of accelerating flowering
will probably be counteracted by metabolic upset in the
plant. Removal of shade leaves does facilitate more light
reaching the center of the plant, but if there is not enough
food energy produced in the leaves, the small internal
floral clusters will probably not grow any larger. Leaf re-
moval may also cause sex reversal resulting from a meta-
bolic change.

If leaves must be removed, the petiole is cut so that
at least an inch remains attached to the stalk. Weaknesses
in the limb axis at the node result if the leaves are pulled
off at the abscission layer while they are still green. Care is
taken to see that the shriveling petiole does not invite
fungus attack.

It should be remembered that, regardless of strain or
environmental conditions, the plant strives to reproduce,
and reproduction is favored by early maturation. This pro-
duces a situation where plants are trying to mature and
reproduce as fast as possible. Although the purpose of
leafing is to speed maturation, disturbing the natural pro-
gressive growth of a plant probably interferes with its rapid
development.
Cannabis grows largest when provided with plentiful
nutrients, sunlight, and water and left alone to grow and
mature naturally. It must be remembered that any altera-
tion of the natural life cycle of Cannabis will affect pro-
ductivity. Imaginative combinations and adaptations of
propagation techniques exist, based on specific situations
of cultivation. Logical choices are made to direct the
natural growth cycle of Cannabis to favor the timely
maturation of those products sought by the cultivator,
without sacrificing seed or clone production.
 
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As
these leaves age and lose their ability to carry on photo-
synthesis they turn chloro tie (yellow) and fall to the
ground. In humid areas care is taken to remove the yellow
or brown leaves, because they might invite attack by fun-
gus. During chlorosis the plant breaks down substances,
such as chlorophylls, and translocates the molecular com-
ponents to a new growing part of the plant, such as the
flowers. Most Cannabis plants begin to lose their larger
leaves when they enter the flowering stage, and this trend
continues until senescence. It is more efficient for the plant
to reuse the energy and various molecular components of
existing chlorophyll than to synthesize new chlorophyll at
the time of flowering. During flowering this energy is
needed to form floral clusters and ripen seeds.

This part makes me think it is probably unnecessary for me to give extra N at mid/late flowering to save some bottom fan leaves that are probably put to better use being recycled by the plant.
 
The way to deal with leaves blocking light is to train the plant by bending it over as in low stress training, supercrop it, scrog it or use some other method that exposes the vast majority of leaves to the light by spreading the plant out on a low profile. So for the case of SCROG technique, the whole plant foliage is spread out on one horizontal plane so most of the plant gets the maximum amount of light instead of the plant being tall where the top is close to the light and the bottom is both shaded and far away from the light in comparison. You want as much of the plant foliage to be as close to the light as possible rather than the light far away from tall untrained plants.

A little bit of basic training will massively increase your yield and honestly it's really not a good idea to go cutting off healthy leaves in the misguided belief it will help. I really hope this is not taken the wrong way, I'm only trying to give constructive criticism.

Justsayknow, there is an amount of yellowing in flower usually so it's to be expected. You really have to just use your judgement - if the leaves look unhealthy and as if they are dying, remove them but if there is chlorosis because there is a bad N deficiency, the best thing to do is to feed a bit more N, especially if there is a lot of yellowing at the bottom

You really need to be able to tell the difference between a little bit of natural yellowing in the flowering period and a serious N deficiency.

You will find that the requirement for nitrogen in the flowering period is less, which is why cannabis flowering nutrients are lower in N but that is not to say you can't have a N deficiency that will have a bad effect on your crop. It's just that you have to make your own call but yes, an amount of yellowing is to be expected, particularly towards the end of the flowering period. Also I would say that cannabis does not only naturally have a tendency to yellow during flower, but as you know, leaves can even go red or purple due to the anthocyanin pigments becoming visible. This happens to a greater degree with some strains and perhaps not at all with others.

What I would strongly recommend you do is post a pic of your plant on a good 420 growing site and ask, if this normal for this stage of flowering and they will tell you.
 
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i typically pull the fan leaves as they yellow and begin to wilt... i do this from when they stat yellowing till i harvest... its an ongoing process for me all thru flowering... i dont just yank all the leaves but i dont want excessive shade or any dead foliage left on the plants...
 
I didn't know about anthocyanin. But I will look it up now.

My guess is what I'm getting is a mild deficiency and the effects of age on the oldest leaves- they are more than 5 months old now. From the grows I've done before it seems to happen more with container grows than grows in the earth. I guess its used up everything in the container and the liquid nutes are not giving it everything it needs. Flowers look fine though.
 
Indoor Closet Grow Log

Ok well this is my first grow log, I'm growing 1 plush berry plant thats about 4 weeks into veg that I am planning to SCROG grow. I'm using 3 100 watt, 1 75 watt cfl daylight spectrum lights. I just cloned all the clones in the humidity dome today using Clonex and Rockwool cubes soaked in a diluted nutrient. For nutrients I'm currently using Iguana Juice Grow which gives the plants a high amount of nitrogen to help increase growth in the veg stage. I also have moonshine going in my closet to get CO2 levels up as well. As soon as I get enough posts I'll upload pics of everything.

NSFW:


IMG_0142_zps2722832c.jpg
IMG_0142_zps2722832c.jpg

IMG_0144_zps9bed7c41.jpg
IMG_0145_zps09530a0c.jpg
IMG_0146_zps08867735.jpg
IMG_0147_zpsff761504.jpg
IMG_0148_zps990ef423.jpg
IMG_0149_zps9c7041dd.jpg
IMG_0149_zps9c7041dd.jpg
IMG_0151_zps92393612.jpg
IMG_0152_zps831fc053.jpg

Pics are up %)



Got all them pics up :D
 
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@ artificial emotion, reading thru the thread... i seem like a cunt... my apologies... im an arguer... its a habit i picked up from my parents, that im still trying to break lol... even when i agree i argue... its more infhriating than when people disagree and deserve argument 8)
 
Salutations Trick509,

I'm using 3 100 watt, 1 75 watt cfl daylight spectrum lights. ... I also have moonshine going in my closet to get CO2 levels up as well.

375 Watts of CFL @ 67 lm/W translates to about 25K~ lm, i'd be curious to see what happens in 3 weeks when the surface to illuminate will start to expand.

Additionally, i was under the impression that CO2 enrichment is only desirable once everything else has been optimized...

Although i'm no specialist i did have the opportunity to enjoy some contemplative gardening in 2011 and then some less in 2012 until the "Borg" (Spider Mites) arrived to ruin everything. In any case i'd like to see a flowering phase being successfully completed under this amount of light. Which reminds me... If those are regular "photo" strains then the century-old "Gas Lantern Routine" (e.g. the 12/5:30/1/5:30 cycle) may be of interest as it could represent a slight reduction on your electric bill, at least that's the main benefit one is supposed to observe when trying this theory - especially with CFLs...

=D
 
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how many years have you been growing weed for?

you are living my cannabis cultivation dreams right nowo
 
The way to deal with leaves blocking light is to train the plant by bending it over as in low stress training, supercrop it, scrog it or use some other method that exposes the vast majority of leaves to the light by spreading the plant out on a low profile. So for the case of SCROG technique, the whole plant foliage is spread out on one horizontal plane so most of the plant gets the maximum amount of light instead of the plant being tall where the top is close to the light and the bottom is both shaded and far away from the light in comparison. You want as much of the plant foliage to be as close to the light as possible rather than the light far away from tall untrained plants.

A little bit of basic training will massively increase your yield and honestly it's really not a good idea to go cutting off healthy leaves in the misguided belief it will help. I really hope this is not taken the wrong way, I'm only trying to give constructive criticism.

Justsayknow, there is an amount of yellowing in flower usually so it's to be expected. You really have to just use your judgement - if the leaves look unhealthy and as if they are dying, remove them but if there is chlorosis because there is a bad N deficiency, the best thing to do is to feed a bit more N, especially if there is a lot of yellowing at the bottom

You really need to be able to tell the difference between a little bit of natural yellowing in the flowering period and a serious N deficiency.

You will find that the requirement for nitrogen in the flowering period is less, which is why cannabis flowering nutrients are lower in N but that is not to say you can't have a N deficiency that will have a bad effect on your crop. It's just that you have to make your own call but yes, an amount of yellowing is to be expected, particularly towards the end of the flowering period. Also I would say that cannabis does not only naturally have a tendency to yellow during flower, but as you know, leaves can even go red or purple due to the anthocyanin pigments becoming visible. This happens to a greater degree with some strains and perhaps not at all with others.

What I would strongly recommend you do is post a pic of your plant on a good 420 growing site and ask, if this normal for this stage of flowering and they will tell you.

Exactly...fishing sinkers work great for healthy fan leaves - Do not cut.
 
^ Ignore that advice,

Aluminum foil will create HOTSPOTS and isnt as reflective anyway,
Use Mylar or white paint. Mylar is the superior one.

These days they even sell mylar that is fireproof
 
Funny enough, this is my first grow. Its a pretty affordable set up you just need the space in a closet and get to it!
 
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