• CD Moderators: someguyontheinternet
  • Cannabis Discussion Welcome Guest
    Posting Rules Bluelight Rules

[MEGA]Community Growing advice, tips, tricks, & experiences Part 5 (2012-2013)

Wow. You stole my avatar.

Like... Verbatim. I put that color rim around the picture in photoshop and the right border has always been a little more pixel heavy.

+1 for originality.

:|

i was just about to say that... was confused as hell at first till i actually read the name of the poster (usually just look at the pics out of the corner of my eye).

dont steal avatars... not cool bro.

dont steal mine now.

also how do you have nearly 50 posts when you joined sometime in the last 11 days?????????? must spend a LOT of time on this site...
 
Will CFL's be adequate to grow 3-4 plants, what strength & how many?
If anyone else could please answer the questions I asked it would be appreciated, thanks for the advice so far, but I'm really trying to get as much info as possible
 
plants will grow much faster than standard lights

With respect there's a reason those lights haven't caught on with indoor growers and HIDs piss all over them any day. Every few months there's some new craze, whether it be plasma lighting or the latest LED setup. They never live up to expectations whilst the tried and tested technology that's been used for years still exists and perform as it has always done.

Iman_15 CFLs are poor for flowering. They work but they are, how shall I put it... disappointing. Almost all serious growers that start off with CFLs eventually make the switch to HIDs and never turn back unless they're main goal is to concentrate on a novelty micro grow. They just have too little penetration.

deleted previous post to avoid seeming to spoonfeed.
 
Last edited:
Will CFL's be adequate to grow 3-4 plants, what strength & how many?
If anyone else could please answer the questions I asked it would be appreciated, thanks for the advice so far, but I'm really trying to get as much info as possible

If you want to go down the fluorescent road i can strongly recommend getting PL-Ls. They are pretty much as good as fluorescent lightning can get and put out a whole lot of light.
You can get them pre-mounted with reflectors and driver. The initial cost of 50-100€ will seem a lot but often when you start with CFL's you will be adding more and more lights throughout the grow to meet your lightning needs and end up spending the same amount of money in the end.

You can check out the last mega grow thread to see how the CFL thing probably goes for a first timer. For me it didn't work but what I probably have learned is that you have to use every tiny "drop" of light with CFLs. All the actually successful CFL grows usually have a very tight concept, whereas with HPS it seems that you can pretty much stick that thing in there and it will atleast do something good
 
Well, I don't know much about CFLs other than I used them, and didnt get what I wanted in final product. MH/HPS is the way to go.


AE, quick question, should I buy a vacuum to purge my BHO? I remember you saying something about freezing it?
Also, What is this I see with people placing their pyrex dish in water,what is the purpose of this.
 
Yes I think you should buy a vacuum pump. I would get a powered one that creates a vacuum more rapidly than a hand powered pump so it does a better job of getting rid of butane bubbles. It's important to do it properly so I recommend that you invest in the right tools.
 
Last edited:
Whats the price difference between the both?
Im probably going to have to get this online huh?
I went to 3 stores yesterday, no good.

I hear the 'mityvac' works good, but Im not sure.
Also, is there any 'one' package
that I can buy, to where these things all come as one, rather than buying 3-8 peices separately?
What all will I need?

I'm just waiting on my butane now.

If I go ahead, and make the butane before I get the vacuum, will I be able to still purge the oil say, 5-6 days after I make the oil, or do I have to do it immediately there after?

My uncle gave me some of the hash oil he made (alot actually :D) , He didnt put too much into it though, didnt know the purity of butane, didn't use filters at the bottom, etc.
Can I 'purge' this right now using the freezer? Can I smoke it? Will smoking it harm me?

Also, what does the vacuum do? My thought would be that its just pulling out molecules that are getting stuck in the heavy oil? though I have no true idea.

Ahh, I bought a coffee grinder yesterday,
I hope this is fun, my Uncle was telling me how much a pain in the ass it is, haha.
 
I don't know but there'll quite a big difference because one has an electric motor and one does not.

Tbh I'm not the person to ask these questions because I don't make BHO myself.

I assume your uncle was 100% sure the butane was free of additives? I certainly hope so, because they can be very harmful to humans (unsurprisingly!). If not, I would pass on the BHO.

You don't have to purge the BHO straight away, but I would just wait until you have all the equipment because you won't be able to consume it anyway.

I would wait until you get your vacuum, so no I wouldn't just use the freezer if I were you. Ideally it's used in addition to, not instead of.

To answer your question about what the vacuum does see balloon in a bell jar vacuum for a graphical illustration.

Sorry I can't be more help.

Whats the price difference between the both?
Im probably going to have to get this online huh?
I went to 3 stores yesterday, no good.

I hear the 'mityvac' works good, but Im not sure.
Also, is there any 'one' package
that I can buy, to where these things all come as one, rather than buying 3-8 peices separately?
What all will I need?

I'm just waiting on my butane now.

If I go ahead, and make the butane before I get the vacuum, will I be able to still purge the oil say, 5-6 days after I make the oil, or do I have to do it immediately there after?

My uncle gave me some of the hash oil he made (alot actually :D) , He didnt put too much into it though, didnt know the purity of butane, didn't use filters at the bottom, etc.
Can I 'purge' this right now using the freezer? Can I smoke it? Will smoking it harm me?

Also, what does the vacuum do? My thought would be that its just pulling out molecules that are getting stuck in the heavy oil? though I have no true idea.

Ahh, I bought a coffee grinder yesterday,
I hope this is fun, my Uncle was telling me how much a pain in the ass it is, haha.
 
Last edited:
Can plants be left too long before harvest?

first time grower here, forgive me if this has been covered elsewhere.

obviuosly if i harvest too early i will have less yield / weaker buds

but is there any disadvantge to harvesting too late....?
 
They lose potency because the flowers (bud) begin to die according to the natural cycle.

It also depends on if you are growing an indica or sativa. You base it on the trichomes. If they are still milky/cloudy then it's earlier in the harvest. If there are more amber colour trichomes then the harvest phase is becoming later.

Indica = harvest early, and it will be a bit of a heady/energetic high like sativas; harvest late and it will be a lot more couchlock. Keep in mind though that because it's indica it will be a bit more couchlock in the first place.
Sativa = harvest early and the high will be a lot more heady, cerebral and energetic; harvest late and it will be a sativa that fades to indica toward the end; harvest *very* late and the heady high will be a lot shorter before fading to couchlock.

It's all strain dependent of course. A lot of people like to grow 50/50 indica/sativa strains because it lets them decide at harvest time what kind of high they want.

If all your trichomes are amber and the bud is turning from green to brown, it's either too late or you have very little time to act.
 
Here are some harvest notes (not written by me) which you will find useful. To see all the images you need click on the links.

When to harvest

Length of flowering is strain dependant, and even then you can't be sure that the seeds will do what they say on the pack. Any reputable breeder will give guidelines as to the length of time that the strain will take to mature. Most Indica dominant strains mature in 8 to 9 weeks as opposed to Sativas which can take anywhere from 13 or more.

As cannabis matures; the flowers - 'calyxes' - swell and grow. Pistils wither and brown but are overtaken by new growth which in turn does the same. Peak maturity is reached when about 90% of the plant calyxes are fully swollen as well as over 80%-90% of the plants pistils being browned with little in the way of new growth.

The following example shows the progress of a flowering plant from day 50 to day 71. Shown in order from left to right.

med_gallery_2710_244_193634.jpg


med_gallery_2710_244_264454.jpg


Notice the lack of new growth (white pistils) in the last two pictures. Lower sections of the plant may not mature at the same rate as higher sections and the entire plant should be taken into consideration when judging if it's ripe for harvest.

Click here for image

Once a grower is able to determine if a plant is ready to be harvested they can use additional methods to determine if it's ready to their taste. This is done by looking at the colour of the trichomes (trichs). Trichome FAQ here by OT1 and here

Trichome colouring

Summed up best by VRG and oldtimer1:

If you have a pocket microscope, or jewellers loupe, you can examine the trichomes (trichs). They start out as just little sticks, and as your bud ripens they grow bobbles on the tops of those sticks. As soon as your trichs have bobbles on, and appear to be ready to burst, you can harvest.

If you leave them on, and keep an eye on the trichs with your magnifier, you can taylor the stone to what you require. They will firstly go a milky white colour, this is the process of THC degrading to CBN, THC gives you the heady "up" high, whereas the CBN gives you the body stone. Going on the pistils, gives you a rough idea of when to chop, but if you get a magnifier, you can chop different buds, at different stages to see what you like the best

Most people chop when the trichs are mainly milky white. If you leave them a bit longer, you will see the trichs turn an amber colour, this is when the buds are at their most potent in terms of couch-lock, and is the best time to harvest if the smoke is to be used for medi purposes.

- VRG

High psychoactive varieties produce clear or transparent capitate heads then they turn transparent amber then slowly oxidise to brown, none translucent. This type is most psychoactive at the early amber translucent stage.

Most varieties do not have a translucent amber stage. What you get is transparent then the milky none translucent that develops over time to the oxidised none translucent brown stage. This type is most psychoactive at the early milky stage.

- oldtimer1

A quick note about psychoactivity by oldtimer1

The thing about amber trichomes, is that true amber trichomes only develop in some phenotypes and only with very high potency types!

The way to define it, is that high potency or should I say the type of plant that develops what I call complex psychoactivity, only develop with clear trichome stages, they go from glass clear to very light yellow to amber to red amber as they develop. The onset of the first red amber just showing is when the potency is at its peak.

At all these stages the trichomes are crystal clear like cut jewels! Its only as they start to degrade that they start to go brown and start to cloud ie: become none translucent this finally degrades to a dark muddy colour.

Types that go from glass clear to milky [like frosted glass]. With this type when you get 40 to 60% milky trichomes, new thc production is being produced at a lower rate than it is slowly degrading, this is the most psychoactive point for this type or variety, it will never produce true amber, instead when you get the oxidised thc starting to show, which is more of an amber brown but cloudy. With this type of var as soon as brown trichomes start appearing you know thc production is way over the top and declining rapidly, at this stage psychoactivity is also declining and the effect becomes more and more narcotic. You see this much more with genes that come from hash making type genetics or so called indicas. Its the same thing as fresh lightly pressed hash has a nice medium honey coloured look, but this very quickly starts to darken, becomes brown then black over time as the surface thc oil oxidises.

Real Amber trichomes only happen on a very few varieties (mainly sativa dominant), the order is clear, clear slightly pale yellow, ie [going amber], to clear red amber. [at all stages they remain jewel clear]

With most varieties (indica dominant) you get clear trichomes then slightly cloudy finally milky.

What happens to both types (sativa and indica) is that eventually both milky and amber trichomes will finally degrade to brown, people often confuse this brown with amber, true amber trichome types remain crystal clear until they finally degrade, they are not the same, the final brown is cloudy/muddy in both types, when trichomes are getting to this stage potency is declining rapidly and the buds well over the top.

With sativa dom’s time means little, as soon as you see the first sign of trichome changes ie milky/clear straw, you start cutting a bud every week, then choose the stone you like best, sats take longer to mature especially real amber types, also longer to degrade to the brown oxidised stage.

Pictures of Trichomes

Some pictures of trichome maturation courtesy of Tricky knome and OT1. Shown here are pictures of trichomes which have turned milky in colour.

Click on:

this

this

and this link for images.


Few shots of trichomes ready for harvest. Shot on the left is of an indica dominant strain. Shot on the right is a sativa variety:

Click here for image.

And here for second image.

Finally you can clearly see the amber coloured trichomes on this leaf. This is about a month over ripe.

Click here for image.

If you're having problems getting hold of a loupe try ebay You're looking for at least a x10 and at the most a x30.
 
I was asking if the trichs can be striped off of the plant material with alcohol? I know how to tell if the plant is ready to harvest I've just never heard of stripping the trichs with alcohol only butane.
 
I want to make this grow as stealth as possible and just do a simple low key sorta stealth PC Case Grow. I have a budget of $400 or less, the cheaper the whole set up is the better but I don't want to sacrifice the quality of the crop due to cheaping out. Dimensions will be 2 feet deep, 1 foot wide & 2.5 feet high.. A couple questions:

STRAIN: Which strain of weed plant would grow the best in this sort of set up? I was thinking of growing 1-3 lowrider plants because they only grow a foot and a bit tall so I could let them grow straight, also they automatically go into the flowering stage on their own. Or I was thinking of just growing 1 plant and using the scrog or LST method, any advice on strains would be appreciated? Looking to get some high quality bud, quality over quantity would be my ideal

METHOD: Which growing method would be best for the size of box I have? (i.e. Scrog, LST)

FANS/VENTILATION: I was thinking of using a small computer fan at the bottom left of my set up for an intake fan and a small computer fan at the top right of my set up for an out-take fan. Do you think that would be adequate for a small setup like this? I was also thinking of putting a small fan on the plant itself.

LIGHTING: I was thinking of using a 42 watt 2,700 colour temperature CFL for the flowering stage this is the link to the light:
http://1000bulbs.com/product/2735/FC40-S27OD.html
For the vegetation stage I was going to use a 42 watt 6,500 colour temperature CFL, here is a link to the bulb:
http://1000bulbs.com/category/150-wa...-fluorescents/
- if it doesn't show up search FC42-MS65 in the search bar of the website
Regarding lighting I was wondering: How many watts total will I need for veg stage? how many watts total will I need for flower stage? will I need both 2700 & 6500 in both stages? Or should it be a clean cut 6500 colour temp. CFL's for veg stage only & 2700 colour temp. CFL's for flowering stage only?

BOX SIZE: Will the dimensions mentioned at the top of this page (2 feet deep, 1 foot wide & 2.5 feet high) be enough to work with?

Anything else would be appreciated.. I'm doing readings everyday but I wouldn't mind some steady input from everyone at Grasscity I'm a noob but I know I can do it with your guys help, thanks in advance
 
Top