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[MEGA]Community Growing advice, tips, tricks, & experiences Part 4

When curing, I actually like to dry my weed for a week longer than usual so that I don't have to 'burp' the jars every day. It makes it so much easier and the end result is just as good IMO.

I got my seeds for my guerrilla grow today!! I can't wait to pop them.

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Just wondering if anyone can help, I've googled with the usual varying results & opinions.

Last grow I accidentally nute stressed a feminized plant which hermied, I caught it in time but ended up with a bunch of seeds.

So will these seeds be female? Opinions vary. Some say because true male chromasomes were never involved, these plants will be female. Some say they will be female but prone to hermieing. Some say they're worth planting, some say don't bother.

I don't grow many at a time so I can watch closely for bananas, thats not a problem, and i'm not averse to a few seeds in my smoke.

Any advice/opinions would be gratefully received.
 
It depends if the plant you stressed was a female that had hermie tendencies or if it was just a true hermaphrodite. If it was the former you will probably have females that also have a strong tendency to turn hermie or if it was a true hermaphrodite, the seeds will also be hermies. In either case it's a crap shoot and not worth the time or grow space. If growing didn't take up so much resources there wouldn't be an issue but life isn't like that and its probably just not worth it. I would give the seeds away or use them outside as a novelty (don't rely on them for a harvest though).

Plants grown from properly made feminized seed should be females 99.9% of the time and shouln't turn hermie like that unless you stress them a hell of a lot. I think the seed was probably from a crap breeder or the breeder was okay but let their standards slip, because that just shouldn't happen.
 
^ thanks for your input. They were from Dinafem, via Attitude so should have been quality, and yes, I did stress it a hell of a lot, both light & nute.
Like you say its a gamble - but I only do a 250w grow and I've got other supplies so I think I may take the risk as an experiment. I'll report back.
 
Are you 100% sure there was absolutely no light leak during at any time during 12/12? The reason I ask is because that is the number one cause of hermies for regular or feminized seed, and often the person isn't even aware of it. Or are you sure it was the over-fertilization?
 
Hmmm now you mention it the positioning of the hermie plant was such that there could have been a small light leak, but it was also the plant that got an accidental double dose of nutes (and it suffered) and also I let it grow into the light and get scorched. So I guess both are a possibility. I do have trust in the quality of the seed though. Maybe a dumb question but are you saying the cause of the hermieing is relevant, can affect the sex of the seed?
 
The sex is predetermined for the most part. Most plants are either male, female or hermaphrodite (with a small minority being the exception to the rule but I won't get into that). Some females however are more prone to showing the hermie trait when stressed. People making feminized seed intentionally stress all their females by altering the light period each day so that the majority start throwing out nanas. A minority will be resistant to this stress, and it is these females that are either selfed or crossed with another such female by reversing the one female and pollinating the other. Unless you've selected for such a female, the seed produced by selfing is more prone to showing hermie tendencies.

What I meant is that if the female plant formed nanas of it's own accord then it's a hermaphrodite, but if you just stressed it with a light leak then it might only be showing hermie tendencies and won't be a true hermaphrodite (in which case there's a better chance the a larger percentage of the seed produced by selfing will be pure females). Normally stress caused by over fertilizing shouldn't cause it to form nanas, which is why I wondered if there was some light leak instead.
 
I always had high percentage rates of females (in my early growing years) keeping my small green/sprout-house at a constant 80 degrees (w/ a ceramic lamp) & useing distilled water & total darkness until the seeds opened/sprouted
This was before I started cloning, of course...
 
I borrowed this from Dutch Passion. It seems it is of relevance here:

From literature and our own findings it appears that the growth of a male or female plant from seed, except for the predisposition in the gender chromosomes, also depends on various environmental factors. The environmental factors that influence gender are:

• a higher nitrogen concentration will give more females.
• a higher potassium concentration will give more males.
• a higher humidity will give more females.
• a lower temperature will give more females.
• more blue light will give more females.
• Fewer hours of light will give more females.

It is important to start these changes at the three-pairs-of-leaves stage and continue for two or three weeks, before reverting to standard conditions.
Click to expand...
 
^That's interesting !

Little nutrition question, I want to be well prepared before my seeds arrive. When do you suggest to start giving nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium? I'm using Canna Terre Professional Plus soil by the way.

Also, I have organic nitrogen 5-0-0 (2ml/liter), phosphorus 0-4-0 (3ml/liter) and potassium 0-0-5 (3ml/liter) all 2 times a week in soil. I understand the plant needs more nitrogen in vegetative and more phosphorus in flowering, so what ratios do you suggest? I have also found a list of other nutrients like manganese, zinc, copper, iron, do you suggest getting some of that too or stay with the 3 main ones?

I was suggested to weigh my plants to know when to water them (50% less weight you have to water it), but I don't want to buy a kitchen balance, is there any other way to tell?

Thanks %)
 
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Those fertilizers are the wrong type if you ask me. The potting soil will supply all the nutrients you need, but like we talked about you'll need a weaker mix for your seedlings. This means that you won't need to feed until a couple of weeks after your last pot up which would be two weeks into 12/12.

You won't need to weigh them. Just water them and lift to see how heavy it feels. Then you'll know, but it should be pretty obvious anyhow IMO.

If you running fem seed from a reputable breeder you won't need to worry about hermies. Well not for 99.9% or so of the time.
 
I've been having some trouble with LSF (still). At first I didn't realize what the wilting was being caused by but now I've diagnosed it thankfully. I'm using Plant Magic Essence and will continue to do so every 5 days, so hopefully I'll beat it. I discovered a really good trick with the PM Essence. The frothing can be a real pain in the arse, so what I do is add two drops of vegetable oil and it completely disappears. This is because the oil changes the surface tension of the water, preventing bubbles from forming. It means I lose a lot less of the mixture to use on the plants.

I'm also thinking of getting a sulfume sulphur vaporizer. It fills the whole area with vaporized sulphur, killing all mould spores. It might be useful to have, but it's quite expensive so I'll have to save up for it.

My move to Poland has been delayed for about 6 months at least so I'll be able to crack on with some growing. I'm glad because the laws over there are really harsh. I can't wait to get a good guerrilla grow in this year. I've found two spots, one of which I've already cultivated. I'm planning on using at least three or four spots to spread the risk and avoid keeping all my eggs in one basket, as it were.

My Ace panama x purple haze has started to germinated (one of four so far). That should be an interesting strain to grow. It certainly is a pretty strain (see last pic for what it should look like).



Ace panama x purple haze grow:
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Ace panama x purple haze grow closeup of pots:
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Sweet Seeds SAD S1 plant that's starting to recover:
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Ace Seeds panama x purple haze (yummy connoisseur's sativa):
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wow that bud shot in the end is just amamazing =OO

my plant has been doing quite okay she's putting out one set of leaves every 24 hours at the moment without getting to much into stretching
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the 3 kc33xlowryder sprouted but they havent been changing much for 2-3 days and look quite unspectacular so I'm not going to post them for now ^^
I also bought some lavender seeds because I was high as fuck in this "random shit" store..never go there stoned...but afterall lavender smells quite nice so why not ? :'D

Really getting into gardening as a hobby, taking care of my mums plants etc...
 
Nice, Xayo!

what strain is the larger indica-looking one?

Lavender comes in really useful for masking the smell of sneaky outdoor plants in greenhouses, so if you ever decide to get a greenhouse and grow one or two plants it could come in handy.
 
I've been asked a few times about how to germinate seeds, so I thought I'd write a picture guide. There are different ways of going about it but this is just my method which has proved very successful. Here you go:


1. Get either multipurpose compost from the garden centre or some other 'light mix' or sowing and cutting compost from a grow shop or garen centre. The former has enough nutrients to sustain the plant well into the vegetative stage but isn't too hot (containing too much nutrients) for delicate seedlings. The latter 'light mix'/sowing or cutting compost is designed specifically for delicate seedlings or cuttings but can be used for larger plants in the vegetative stage if nutrients are used to sustain the plant. Garden centre sowing compost can work just as well as the more expensive grow shop stuff IME.

2. Sieve it through a quarter inch riddle/sieve. This is important for seeds (more so than larger plants in the vegetative stage, although I'd do it for these plants as well).

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3. Fill pot with the medium and tamp down to lightly compress with tool called a tamper such as the one pictured (buy at garen centres).

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4. Water with seaweed extract using a fine rose watering can designed for seedlings. Seaweed extract helps germination along and is good for young seedlings since it contains valuable hormones (especially gibberellins and cytokinins) and vitamins & minerals. Cold-pressed organic seaweed extract is best.

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5. Using a dibber (plastic green tool pictured) to make a hole 1/4" deep in the soil.

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6. Place seed in hole and cover with a small amount of soil.

7. Label with a plastic label and write the date and strain/plant number using pencil. This is one of the most important steps and shouldn't be taken for granted.

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8. Place under light such as a 125W blue CFL a few cm away. A temperature of about 23-28C is required for germination and the light should be able to provide this. At the beginning, do not turn on the grow room's extraction and intake since too much air exchange will dry out the soil in such a small container, potentially damaging the fine roots of your seedling.

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Thanks AE for the guide! I'll follow your steps soon!

That purple sativa on the last page looks amazing :O Can't wait to be growing some sativas myself!

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Grow tent is almost ready, missing the carbon filter and most importantly the seeds!!!
 
hoes call me santa, I forgot to say, even though I said you should turn the extraction and ventilation off when germinating seeds in small pots which can dry out quickly, I would still point an oscillating fan at them if you can, such as the small clip on type used in grow tents. This is because a gentle breeze can actually strengthen the delicate stems, in a similar way that weighlifting can boost muscle strength by tearing the muscle fibres. It also prevents etiolation to a degree i.e. leginess (although the best way to avoid this is to have a higher light intensity, something that is missing when a lot of people grow seedlings).

edit: Also, I'm not sure if I remembered to mention this to you as I noticed you said to me you had the small CFLs on a timer, but for seeds that have just germinated I would actually be using 24/7 continuous light rather than 18/6, 20/4 etc. This continuous light seems to work better with seedlings at this stage. Then once the seedlings have entered into the vegetative stage reduce down to 18/6, or 20/4 if you can afford the extra electricity. Trials with cannabis have shown that 20/4 lighting during the vegetative stage is marginally better than 18/6, but you have to weigh this against the extra cost on your electricity bill). The different between the two in terms of the yield is not enormous but it's large enough to be significant statistically.

Another tip I wanted to give you, since I understand you'll be using organic nutrients, is to not adjust the pH of your water/nutrient solution. This is because the medium itself will have been mixed with something like dolomite like which buffers the pH itself, meaning altering the pH of your water isn't necessary. Using pure chemical fertilizers with different media can be different, but in your case you can get by without doing it. This is part of the reason why I enjoy growing in soil so much, because none of the fiddly and annoying messing about with pH pens and EC meters is redundant and not necessary at all. It just makes things so much easier. Organic weed definitely tastes a lot better than chem weed, without a shadow of a doubt.
 
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Does the fan need to be oscillating? I'm gonna be using a fan that looks just like the computer ones but bigger, around 120mm x 120mm I think. I was thinking putting it just a bit over the plant, the farther away so it will have the gentler breeze possible since it's not oscillating.

You had tell me yesterday I think about the CFLs, i'm going to run them for 24 hours a day, then 10 days after the seeds have sprouted will put under my 430W HPS for 20/4 until it's done. (Using autoflowering seeds if anyone was wondering).

About the pH, i'm not touching any of that. I have been told the public water is really good here for the pH.

The bloom fertilizer I bought is Bio Flores 2.5-2.0-5.0 by BioCanna by the way, they didn't have plant magic bloom. 4ml per liter of water.
 
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