The problem with using a closed glass is it takes a lot longer to get cold enough - if your freezer is only just cold enough to precipitate then with a lid on you'll have to leave it in there for a week. If you leave the lid off then it will only take 2-3 days to precipitate.
extremely crude dmt extraction
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sn23
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No. Overnight with lid on is enough. This prevents solvent smells and condensing moisture into the container. Naphtha does not become solid in usual freezers (melting point about - 90°C) plus it would contract, as opposed to water.
Any residual DMT that's not crystallized (be it due to time/temperature) will stay in the solvent, which you can re-use in the next pull. Very efficient (work-wise) is using two volumes of solvent and always have one sitting over your lye-solution to extract DMT and one sitting in the freezer to precipitate. This way you just need to transfer saturated solvent into the freezer, and filter + pour back the second one to the lye-solution once a day.
Any residual DMT that's not crystallized (be it due to time/temperature) will stay in the solvent, which you can re-use in the next pull. Very efficient (work-wise) is using two volumes of solvent and always have one sitting over your lye-solution to extract DMT and one sitting in the freezer to precipitate. This way you just need to transfer saturated solvent into the freezer, and filter + pour back the second one to the lye-solution once a day.
Not for my freezer it isn't. If you leave it in two days instead of one you get twice as much DMT. Three days you will get even more.
which you can re-use in the next pull.
Only trouble with re-using naptha is it tends to turn your DMT yellow instead of the white you get with fresh naptha.
sn23
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The scheme outlined in the previous post would amount to one pull per day. It's just convenient, because you would only need to spend less than half an hour per day (to filter the cold naphtha and siphon off the saturated naphtha to put it into the freezer). That's plenty of time to pull/precipitate. I think some of the teks have guidelines for how long the pulls need to sit to be efficient. I'm sure you can do it considerably faster than 1 pull per day.
With a reasonable amount of solvent you can expect about 5 pulls until the yield per pull isn't worth the work anymore. Rate limiting is the freeze precipitation and amount of solvent you want to use. If you decide not to recycle, you could use e.g. 5 (successively decreasing!) volumes of solvent, put them into the freezer overnight all together and be done the next day.
RE Ismene's point: you can just try out and see what works best. Definitely set it to the lowest setting and place your vessel(s) to the bottom, there the temperature is lowest. Yellowing is said to be due to formation of the N-Oxide, which is said to be active too.
That's the great (and sometimes frustrating) thing about chemistry: it's a mix of art, craft and science :D
With a reasonable amount of solvent you can expect about 5 pulls until the yield per pull isn't worth the work anymore. Rate limiting is the freeze precipitation and amount of solvent you want to use. If you decide not to recycle, you could use e.g. 5 (successively decreasing!) volumes of solvent, put them into the freezer overnight all together and be done the next day.
RE Ismene's point: you can just try out and see what works best. Definitely set it to the lowest setting and place your vessel(s) to the bottom, there the temperature is lowest. Yellowing is said to be due to formation of the N-Oxide, which is said to be active too.
That's the great (and sometimes frustrating) thing about chemistry: it's a mix of art, craft and science :D
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sn23
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You should agitate it from time to time, totally depends on how fast you want to do the extraction, and how big the batch is. Most important: don't do it too vigorously, or you might risk formation of an emulsion which separates very slowly. Turning the container upside down for a some minutes should be enough agitation for one pull. Just read some teks as they should cover these issues, and you'll get the idea.
The overall process can seem confusing but it really isn't. You could do a small test run to practice the process a bit, see where you encounter problems and work on solutions.
I guess we moved away from the original topic quite some time ago. Perhaps a mod could move this convo to the DMT extraction thread, please?
The overall process can seem confusing but it really isn't. You could do a small test run to practice the process a bit, see where you encounter problems and work on solutions.
I guess we moved away from the original topic quite some time ago. Perhaps a mod could move this convo to the DMT extraction thread, please?
Mailmonkey
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oy, fuck off pal
, only just seen this, MSB is overloading EADD again, so roamed out fora change....oy, fuck off pal
Get back where you belong monkey!! Roaming wild across BL...
This is the only "study" I've ever heard about:
In 1959, a Brazilian biologist, Gon�alves de Lima, wrote a study on mimosa hostilis, in which he reports that the "root-material" was found to contain 0.57% DMT. The part of the plant traditionally used as a psychoactive is the root-bark, which certainly has a higher DMT content than the inner parts of the root, and it is not clear which was used in de Lima's assessment.
Two studies found the root-bark to contain an astonishing 11% DMT! [ref]http://www.lycaeum.org/leda/docs/16812.shtml?ID=16812 Given that no other plant has been found to contain more than 1% DMT, (Psychotria viridis, traditionally used to make ayahuasca, contains no more than 0.66% DMT) we must treat these claims as somewhat unlikely.
One frequently hears in the psychonaut community that mimosa hostilis contains 1% DMT. There do not seem to be any studies that found this level of DMT, and the figure perhaps comes from Jonathan Ott's observation that, "since Pachter's group [Pachter was the chemist who tested de Lima's samples] isolated 0.57% DMT, we can assume a total content perhaps twice as high [because much of the DMT originally present would have been lost in the extraction]".
sekio
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The big old DEA themselves found 0.8 - 0.9% in M. hostilis rootbark, I would imagine 1% is totally possible.
Of course its going to be seasonally, varietally, and regionally variable I would expect.
Of course its going to be seasonally, varietally, and regionally variable I would expect.
Mailmonkey
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I don't doubt that the plant contains less than 1% DMT Ismene...
But, and I've said to you before, I and most others regularly yield more than 1% of "product". We're not all making it up.
I don't claim my "product" to be pure DMT, I think there's other stuff gets extracted too, as well as the pure spice...
I'll get back to the cess pit now :D
But, and I've said to you before, I and most others regularly yield more than 1% of "product". We're not all making it up.
I don't claim my "product" to be pure DMT, I think there's other stuff gets extracted too, as well as the pure spice...
I'll get back to the cess pit now :D
dear spiral arm:
wow this is incredible easy and cheap! i did not know this was possible.
can the resinous dmt material be vaporized, or should it be smoked?
I need a little help. I tried doing this tek and just a few minutes after mixing the washing soda and mimosa bark powder, and adding OPA, the whole thing turned into a dark green/black sludge.
why did this happen? why did it turn into a greenish/black sludge? the final product turned into a greenish/black powder; not at all the results you got from them, which was a reddish brown oil/resin!
what went wrong here? And also, after you first mix the washing soda and mimosa bark powder, do you need to add water to this to make it a paste and let it settle for a half hour? Thats what someone on the shroomery said!
SteamboatBillJr
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I agree you shouldn't use the above tek. A/B teks are the best option. An A/B tek is an acid/base extraction technique. You could use either of these two.
Elfspice's Complete Acacia Extraction Guide (simple)
Vovin's tek (advanced)
Elfspice's Complete Acacia Extraction Guide (simple)
Vovin's tek (advanced)
Wait, why do you guys say not to use that tek that spiral arm came up with? Apparently it works for him, and on the shroomery forum someone tried the same tek, from 250 grams of mhrb got around 4 grams of this reddish-colored oil which was "high in dmt" content along with other alkaloids from mimosa! and I'm sure that you could simply cover some herb of choice (lotus flower, rose flowers, etc.) with the dmt oil and let it dry and smoke it for a full dmt experience! But why did it all turn green and black when i mixed it with washing soda and Isopropyl alcohol? what went wrong? Did i put in too much washing soda? I think I might have put more than a 1:1 ratio of mimosa:washing soda.
Humble Bumble
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@Nishith
Well it looks a bit too crude for my taste also, when there's better teks that give a more pure product while not requiring that much extra effort or skills.
I have no idea what happened in your extraction
[*] but if I were to do that tek myself I'd make a little adjustment to the phase where you add the soda:
[*] only things I can think of; were you using pure soda? did it come in dry form or pre-mixed? Was the IPA pure isopropyl with no adulterants?
Well it looks a bit too crude for my taste also, when there's better teks that give a more pure product while not requiring that much extra effort or skills.
I have no idea what happened in your extraction
[*] but if I were to do that tek myself I'd make a little adjustment to the phase where you add the soda:
[*] only things I can think of; were you using pure soda? did it come in dry form or pre-mixed? Was the IPA pure isopropyl with no adulterants?
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Hi,
Thanks humble bumble.
I was using what Spiral Arm suggested, which was Arm and Hammer brand washing soda.
Although when I looked at the ingredients it was like 85% washing soda and 15% water I believe.
But wouldn't that be perfect? The 15% that is water would make up for that step where you don't need to add water right?
Now that I think of it, on the Shroomery forum it was the same tek EXCEPT water was added to the washing soda/mimosa mixture like you mentioned;
and it was left to sit for a half an hour, but not heated. And enough water was added to make it like a paste.
So yes, I believe I was using pure washing soda, it was like a coarse white powder.
And also, I used a mixture of 91% and 70% IPA, it was an average of 80% IPA.
But the person on the shroomery got a very pure reddish-colored oil, and several grams of it at that! And it was pure dmt with other secondary alkaloids in the mimosa.
And since mimosa powder is so hard to find now a days, could I try acacia confusa root bark powder for this tek, and do you know what color that would come out as?
Thanks humble bumble.
I was using what Spiral Arm suggested, which was Arm and Hammer brand washing soda.
Although when I looked at the ingredients it was like 85% washing soda and 15% water I believe.
But wouldn't that be perfect? The 15% that is water would make up for that step where you don't need to add water right?
Now that I think of it, on the Shroomery forum it was the same tek EXCEPT water was added to the washing soda/mimosa mixture like you mentioned;
and it was left to sit for a half an hour, but not heated. And enough water was added to make it like a paste.
So yes, I believe I was using pure washing soda, it was like a coarse white powder.
And also, I used a mixture of 91% and 70% IPA, it was an average of 80% IPA.
But the person on the shroomery got a very pure reddish-colored oil, and several grams of it at that! And it was pure dmt with other secondary alkaloids in the mimosa.
And since mimosa powder is so hard to find now a days, could I try acacia confusa root bark powder for this tek, and do you know what color that would come out as?
SteamboatBillJr
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TLDR: You should use the proven techniques insuring you are successful and safe.
You shouldn't believe everything on the Internet and because this is necessary I am explaining. You should notice any person could make accounts on this forum. This includes you, me, and members of prohibitionist governments. These governments employ multiple techniques in the drug wars they wage.
-Miss-information attacks include:
-Disseminating flawed/confusing synthesis Teks preventing the production of quality illicit substances. An example of this is posting flawed meth synthesis Teks.
-Promoting the use of dangerous and undesirable alternatives of enjoyable drugs. An example of this is promoting PCP as wonderful while claiming LSD causes bad trips.
-Promoting fake or unreliable sources rather than secure and reliable sources. An example of this is saying you should use clearnet vendors rather than darknet vendors.
-Spreading lies about dosages and the safety of drugs.
-Social engineering attacks include:
-Manipulating social norms. This could manifest with the modeling of self sabotaging behavior. An example is sock puppet accounts complementing each other on forums and bragging about how they order drugs from clearnet sites with personal credit cards.
-Attacking credible people in an attempt at discrediting them.
-Attempting gaining control of groups through the assumption of leader/moderator positions and subsequently influencing the behavior of the group.
-Attacking the health, well being, and financial stability of influential individuals. (I loose sleep about this)
-making the forum stinky rectum smell place to being. An example of this is sock puppet accounts having discussions non-froum users find offensive and disturbing. This repels newer users.
Now if you are rational you are thinking this jeopardizes the safety of drug users and undermines the foundation of harm reduction while circumventing the judicial system. This is true, innocent drug users die because of these activities and can't pursue legal recourse if an abuse of power was involved. Worse yet people in other countries use the same Internet. These techniques also victimize people in uninvolved countries with less strict laws such as Portugal. I have noticed an improvement recently. I encounter fewer of these headaches discussing cannabis than I did in past times.
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Bagseed
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a normal A/B extraction (or even STB) can yield fairly pure DMT freebase and it is certainly not very complicated to do. yeah it takes more time than a crude extraction, but it is certainly doable.
here is how I did it:
1) I weighed out ~200g of MHRB and ground it as finely as possible in a coffee grinder. be aware that this stuff is very very dusty after grinding, so handle it very carfully and maybe wear a dust mask.
2) acidify to pH 3 about 1.5 - 2 litres of water (I used tap water, but mine comes from a mountain spring, so if your water quality is bad, use distilled) with a suitable acid. I used acetic acid, but hydrochloric acid will also work. add a drop at a time and check the pH with a indicator paper, which can be bought for little money. it really doesn't take much, just a couple drops with concentrated acetic acid.
2) put your ground MHRB into a pot, cover it with 1/3 of the acidic water and let it simmer for 1-2 hours in a well ventilated room, stir regularly. strain this through a piece of cloth (you want as little fibres in your extract as possible. collect the extract in a glass jar or similar.
take the MHRB out of the cloth, put it back into the pot and use another third of your water, and repeat. extracting like this 3 times will remove most of the alkaloids from the plant matter.
3) after your third extraction, unify all the extracts, clean your pot, fill in your aqueous solution containing your DMT acetate and reduce this to one third of the volume on low temp. can take a while depending on how much it boils. after this, fill it into a glass jar and let it cool down. it will appear as a brown sluggish liquid.
4) when your extract is cool, put on safety goggles, get your sodium hydroxide (NaOH, caustic soda) and start to basify. only add one pellet at a time and stir continuously. basifying a solution is exothermic, so adding too much at once can bring the water to boil spontaneously, which can make it spit all over you, and you don't want anything highly basic in your face or anywhere.
well what happens is that when you keep adding the base, your solution will start to get thicker and white stuff will fall out. if you keep adding NaOH, it will eventually turn black and everything will go back into solution. at this point, it should be pH 13-14. now the DMT should be completely deprotonated, which means it is the free base.
4) now you need some device to seperate two layers of liquid, which are not miscible. many people use turkey basters or just siphon off the top layer, there are many ways to do it, so you should check out which looks best for you. I personally just bought a seperatory funnel, which is a handy lab device made of glass, designated to perform exactly this task. it is certainly worth the spending, because you can seperate the layers very precisely.
fill your basic DMT solution into the jar/funnel/whatever you're using, and add ~150ml of your nonpolar solvent (hexane, petroleum ether, naphtha, D-limonene, to name a few) and mix it with your basic solution. don't shake too hard, or it might emulsify if you're unlucky. after a couple minutes of mixing, let it sit, and the two layers should seperate again.
what happens here is that the DMT freebase is vastly more soluble in the nonpolar solvent than in the aqueous phase, so it will happily migrate into the solvent. seperate the layers, collect the organic layer (normally the top layer, unless you use something like CHCl3) in another clean jar, and repeat this 2 more times as well (similar to the inital extraction before).
unify the organic extracts, discard the basic solution (beware, maybe neutralize it before flushing it down the sink, it might damage your pipes). reduce the volume of the organic extract as much as possible (I used a hot water bath directly in front of the window, just make sure that the fumes actually go outside, and don't get pulled into the room. the more you reduce, the easier DMT will crystalize out of the solution later.
after reducing is finished, let it cool to room temp, close the jar and put it into the freezer. at freezing temperatures, DMT will become very poorly soluble, and crystalize. let it sit in the freezer for 2 days or so, and then filter it out with a filter paper. be very quickly, if the the solvent gets warm again, some DMT will redissolve. let your crystals dry on air for couple of hours.
5) enjoy your homemade DMT freebase.
PS: don't use this post as a tek to soley rely on. research the topic more, read lot of teks and reports, and then do it based on your own knowledge instead of using a strict recipe. I can't and won't take responsibility for any problems or wrongdoings
PPS: if you really can't comprehend this, you should question your quest of extracting DMT, no offense to anybody, but you will have to deal with strong bases and flamable solvents, so a basic understanding of the matter is absolutely important!
here is how I did it:
1) I weighed out ~200g of MHRB and ground it as finely as possible in a coffee grinder. be aware that this stuff is very very dusty after grinding, so handle it very carfully and maybe wear a dust mask.
2) acidify to pH 3 about 1.5 - 2 litres of water (I used tap water, but mine comes from a mountain spring, so if your water quality is bad, use distilled) with a suitable acid. I used acetic acid, but hydrochloric acid will also work. add a drop at a time and check the pH with a indicator paper, which can be bought for little money. it really doesn't take much, just a couple drops with concentrated acetic acid.
2) put your ground MHRB into a pot, cover it with 1/3 of the acidic water and let it simmer for 1-2 hours in a well ventilated room, stir regularly. strain this through a piece of cloth (you want as little fibres in your extract as possible. collect the extract in a glass jar or similar.
take the MHRB out of the cloth, put it back into the pot and use another third of your water, and repeat. extracting like this 3 times will remove most of the alkaloids from the plant matter.
3) after your third extraction, unify all the extracts, clean your pot, fill in your aqueous solution containing your DMT acetate and reduce this to one third of the volume on low temp. can take a while depending on how much it boils. after this, fill it into a glass jar and let it cool down. it will appear as a brown sluggish liquid.
4) when your extract is cool, put on safety goggles, get your sodium hydroxide (NaOH, caustic soda) and start to basify. only add one pellet at a time and stir continuously. basifying a solution is exothermic, so adding too much at once can bring the water to boil spontaneously, which can make it spit all over you, and you don't want anything highly basic in your face or anywhere.
well what happens is that when you keep adding the base, your solution will start to get thicker and white stuff will fall out. if you keep adding NaOH, it will eventually turn black and everything will go back into solution. at this point, it should be pH 13-14. now the DMT should be completely deprotonated, which means it is the free base.
4) now you need some device to seperate two layers of liquid, which are not miscible. many people use turkey basters or just siphon off the top layer, there are many ways to do it, so you should check out which looks best for you. I personally just bought a seperatory funnel, which is a handy lab device made of glass, designated to perform exactly this task. it is certainly worth the spending, because you can seperate the layers very precisely.
fill your basic DMT solution into the jar/funnel/whatever you're using, and add ~150ml of your nonpolar solvent (hexane, petroleum ether, naphtha, D-limonene, to name a few) and mix it with your basic solution. don't shake too hard, or it might emulsify if you're unlucky. after a couple minutes of mixing, let it sit, and the two layers should seperate again.
what happens here is that the DMT freebase is vastly more soluble in the nonpolar solvent than in the aqueous phase, so it will happily migrate into the solvent. seperate the layers, collect the organic layer (normally the top layer, unless you use something like CHCl3) in another clean jar, and repeat this 2 more times as well (similar to the inital extraction before).
unify the organic extracts, discard the basic solution (beware, maybe neutralize it before flushing it down the sink, it might damage your pipes). reduce the volume of the organic extract as much as possible (I used a hot water bath directly in front of the window, just make sure that the fumes actually go outside, and don't get pulled into the room. the more you reduce, the easier DMT will crystalize out of the solution later.
after reducing is finished, let it cool to room temp, close the jar and put it into the freezer. at freezing temperatures, DMT will become very poorly soluble, and crystalize. let it sit in the freezer for 2 days or so, and then filter it out with a filter paper. be very quickly, if the the solvent gets warm again, some DMT will redissolve. let your crystals dry on air for couple of hours.
5) enjoy your homemade DMT freebase.
PS: don't use this post as a tek to soley rely on. research the topic more, read lot of teks and reports, and then do it based on your own knowledge instead of using a strict recipe. I can't and won't take responsibility for any problems or wrongdoings
PPS: if you really can't comprehend this, you should question your quest of extracting DMT, no offense to anybody, but you will have to deal with strong bases and flamable solvents, so a basic understanding of the matter is absolutely important!
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Humble Bumble
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@Nishith
I'm afraid I haven't any experience extracting from acacia. I have some on the shelf but not enough that I would risk wasting it, I'm saving it to brew a tea.
I suggest you read up on the dmt-nexus wiki, here are some extraction teks (you probably seen them already):
https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Extraction_Tek#DMT
Also there's a Big & Dandy DMT extraction thread here,might be of help:
http://www.bluelight.org/vb/threads...-N-N-DMT-Extraction-Thread-Elves-are-watching
https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Jungle_Spice
As for mixing the MHRB/ base I feel time is a factor; you've got to allow time for the base to react with the alkaloids, so if you just mix it and add your IPA right away, this reaction would not be complete and you'd pull less alkaloids from your bark. Also a weak base like sodium carbonate wouldn't do a very thorough job I think and that's why edible lime is preferred.
I'm afraid I haven't any experience extracting from acacia. I have some on the shelf but not enough that I would risk wasting it, I'm saving it to brew a tea.
I suggest you read up on the dmt-nexus wiki, here are some extraction teks (you probably seen them already):
https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Category:Extraction_Tek#DMT
Also there's a Big & Dandy DMT extraction thread here,might be of help:
http://www.bluelight.org/vb/threads...-N-N-DMT-Extraction-Thread-Elves-are-watching
I believe this could be what's known as Jungle Spice and I think it's typical of Mimosa. I don't know what color crystals you'd get from acacia (Well, if you do it right, I'd guess white)
https://wiki.dmt-nexus.me/Jungle_Spice
As for mixing the MHRB/ base I feel time is a factor; you've got to allow time for the base to react with the alkaloids, so if you just mix it and add your IPA right away, this reaction would not be complete and you'd pull less alkaloids from your bark. Also a weak base like sodium carbonate wouldn't do a very thorough job I think and that's why edible lime is preferred.