Tryptamines Compilation of panaeolus cyanescens experiences & combo with THH or tetrahydroharmine, like organic psilocin LSD

[tregar]

Day 5 since adding grains to the 10 pint jars full of substrate, turns out the jars will not need any shaking, nearly fully colonized...will allow 5 more days for 100% colonization, then will add a few mm sterile casing (that I sterilized today for 45 min at 15 psi, added 1 quart water to casing so that only a few drops of water fall out when fist of it made, will allow to cool overnight) to the 4.8 quart pyrex trays and jars a few days from now.

Pic 1: day 5, all of 10 jars nearly fully colonized
pic 2: side of one of the 4.8 quart pyrex dishes
pic 3: bottom of one of the 4.8 quart pyrex dishes

 

[tregar]

Next day, after the casing had cooled down in the pc overnight, poured around a 1/4" sterile casing onto top of trays in front of flow hood, used a fork that had been cleaned with 70% isopropyl alcohol to smooth out...then sprayed the casing layer down heavily with distilled water after it was in place, then (optional) put a foil cover over tray just for 24 hours as the mycelia needs to poke through the casing just a bit before pins will form and keeping the top on seems to speed that initial move up, probably because it keeps the casing layer warmer, and put back into martha tent with temp controller set to normal 77 to 78 degree F.

The 10 pint jars will be ready to case in around 4 more days. They sit at bottom of tent waiting their turn soon.

 

[tregar]

Asura said: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/25987049

Quote:

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Fruiting (Part 1)

Successful fruiting of pan cyans requires the understanding of these factors: humidity, evaporation, temperature, and fresh air exchange (FAE).

Temperature

Pan cyans like temps in the 76-80°F range. If I could lock in a temp perfectly, I would have it exactly 77°F at all times. A little fluctuation doesn't seem to hurt, but if temps drop too low, especially before the first flush, it can ruin the entire grow. Drops can even happen in the middle of summer in Texas. This is why I have a heater in my grow room year around.

FAE
This is the easy part. FAE is always on. Sometimes that air is mixed with fog and sometimes it's just air. But there is always some amount of air going into the FC.

Some growers handle FAE using a repeat cycle timer that simultaneously pulls in fresh air while exhausting the old air. I prefer the always on model. It's just one less thing to think about.

Humidity & Evaporation

Pan cyans thrive a high humidity environment. However, evaporation is a major pinning trigger (by all observations). And evaporation cannot occur efficiently if your FC is always near 100% relative humidity (RH).

With this in mind, it's best to think of fruiting in two stages: pre-pin and post-pin.

During pre-pin, it's best to cycle humidity. I will set my humidity controller to a range around 90-98%. This means the fog will kick on at 90% and will shut off when it hits 98%. While on, moisture is being added and humidity will increase.

While off, humidity drops and evaporation will increase. This on/off cycle takes some amount of time, which is why some cultivators use a repeat cycle timer in lieu of a controller. Both can work well.

I don't want the environment to be too wet or too dry, so I do regularly adjust the range on my controller based on what I am seeing. Having an empty tray in the FC can really help with this dialing in. If my tray is bone dry when the cycle hits 90%, I know I can increase the range to something like 92-98%. If my tray is too wet at the high end, I might adjust the range to something like 90-97% or 90-96%. I will make whatever adjustments necessary based on what I am seeing with the empty tray.

In my current grow, for instance, I have the range set to 92-97%. These adjustments were made over the
course of the first three days of fruiting.

Post-pin is easier to manage. Once, pinning has occurred the substrate will continue to put out flush after flush. I don't worry about the humidity cycling once the initial pinning has occurred. After the pins start coming in I usually set my controller to a tight range like 94-95% to keep the environment mostly humid. Even with the humidity on, some evaporation will still occur.

RogerRabbit said:
You can have 100% humidity right at the substrate surface, while having +/-95% humidity within the air of the fruiting chamber itself.
Even at 99% humidity, if you're getting good fresh air exchange, evaporation from the substrate will occur.

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After 24 hours removed the foil cover from trays which had several toothpick sized air holes in it...filled humidifier with water, set humidity on humidity controller to TURN ON at 90 to 92 degrees humidity, and TURN OFF at 97 degrees humidity. Set variable PC fan blowing warm air up from the dual 150 watt ceramic lamp reptile lava rock heater to 2.5, low speed very quiet with still plenty of fresh air all thru the tent.

pic 1: trays look like this after removing the foil, substrate 100% colonized by the mycelium
pic 2: monsoon humidifier blows a rolling humidity over the trays (and jars when cased in a few days)
pic 3: humidity controller set to TURN ON at 90 to 92 degrees humidity, TURN OFF at 97 degrees humidity
pic 4: variable pc fan set to around 2.5 speed (low)
pic 5: monsoon humidifier set to around 3 setting (low)
pic 6: day 7 after adding grown out mycelium grain (1 to 1.25") to each of 10 jars with substrate and shaking, will case all jars in around 3 more days.

 

[tregar]

Ran across a problem with the Chinese made humidity controller I was originally using, it had no calibration feature, so even though the sensor was several points off, I was not able to calibrate to the actual real humidity in the tent, as I have 3 different humidity meters, all very accurate, while the Chinese made monitor was way off...

...so found a much better INKBIRD humidity monitor controller with built in up and down CALIBRATION buttons, so was able to calibrate the new humidity controller to the actual real humidity based on the other meters in the tent, I was able to set the target high humidity to 97 and the "turn on differential" to 90 degrees humidity, so it was able to turn on humidity when it fell below 90 and turn it off when it reached 97. This new one worked incredibly well compared to the Chinese model.

....also place a large rim plastic cup way underneath the monsoon humidity hose on one of the racks, as every so often built up drips of water at the end of the monsoon hose would fall into the cup placed below the output tube, so the water would not just get dumped into the bottom of the tent as it fell...this keeps it much cleaner inside, so no drips of water would fall into bottom of tent or any of the mushroom trays.

pic 1: this inkbird humidity monitor controller works very well all day and night to keep humidity at a set TURN ON AT 90, TURN OFF AT 97, easy to calibrate too.

pic 2...it's also important to keep the monsoon humidifier with it's long expandable hose higher than the actual spot where the hose enters the tent, this way the built up water in the hose will exit the hose into cup far below in the tent as it drips out, otherwise the water can get built up in hose and will cause humidity to stop output. I used 2 x 5 gallon buckets on top a wooden stool to raise the monsoon humidifier high enough.

pic 3: the variable pc fan had to be turned back up to normal "8" mid-high setting in order to keep blowing the warm air up and thru all the tent, this made it easy to keep temp anywhere I set it, normally at 77 to 78 degrees F, the fan speed cannot be turned on low, or the temp will not go above 75 degrees when it is freezing outside and below 65 in house. The mid high "8" setting works very well, no matter how cold it is, it's able to keep a constant 77 to 79 degrees F in all the racks of the tent.

 

[tregar]

Don't make the same mistake I did, so after 1.5 weeks, not a single pin, and the humidity controller became a major pain in the ass, as it's calibration would fluctuate and it drove me a little bit mad having to watch and tend to it often...

...so I wen't back to what Gordotek recommended, and just put the monsoon humidifier on a timer, 1/2 hour on, then 1/2 hour off, all day and night long...

...also rolled up around 2" of the tent from the bottom and secured it with clothespins, put the ceiling fan on LOW in the room, and cracked a window around the width of a clothespin, this made a major difference, also cracked the door to the grow room around 2" all the time, and now the inside of the martha tent is no longer like a 24 hour rainforest.

...The FAE or fresh air exchange is perfect now...for 1/2 hour the humidity climbs from 80 to a perfect 97 degrees fairly quickly when ON, maintains the 97, inches up to 98 during the last 5 minutes of the 30 min ON cycle, then drops down to an ending 80 during the last 5 min of the 30 min OFF cycle very slowly when OFF, now I'm finally seeing evaporation from the surface of the casing during OFF and good moisture of the casing when ON.

As I've read in a dozen other martha tent topics on this forum, all the variables of a tent can be tricky, and why so many only use monotubs, but these are pans and would require a slightly different monotub design from your normal cubensis (babayaga covers this, see post #1 link)..but this at least solved the problem for me. Hope to see pins within days or a week now.

The temp is still at a perfect 77 degrees all day and night, as the 77 temp still maintains easily even with the cracked window (40 degrees outside and 65 inside at night) and even with the rolled up portion of tent, this is due to the double lamp reptile heater.

An empty saucer next to the grow during the humidity cycling shows hardly any condensation when the timer is OFF and then it shows some moisture but not wetness like you want when ON.

For the first time I've seen tiny pools of water (that were forming during the day) at the bottom of the tent floor on the stand finally evaporate, now it's dry, I was lacking any kind of FAE or evaporation before, and evaporation is a pinning trigger.

New optimal Settings:
(1) variable speed pc fan at bottom of tent set to 2.5 (lowest setting, reduced from previous too high of 7)
(2) monsoon humidifier set to "2"
(3) ceiling fan in room set to "low"

In other words, just about everything set to "2" from the 2 inches of tent brought up, to the 2 on humidifier and 2 on pc fan.

Pic 1: rolled up the bottom of tent a tiny bit to allow FAE
Pic 2: cracked a nearby window slightly all the time
Pic 3: timer, push in every other button so that you get 1/2 hour ON and 1/2 hour OFF of the humidifier just like the gordotek grow.

 

[tregar]

the elasticaltiger said:

Quote:

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Any fruits yet?

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Yes! finally today I came home and there are pins finally all over the trays!

mwj12977 said:

Quote:

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Biggest issue I had with pans was the temperature difference between cubes. I was trying to colonize cubes and pans in the same space. Cube myc was taking off and the pans were not. Once I figured that out it was all good. It also colonized much slower than I was used to with cubes. I’m no expert and could be completely wrong here but raising the temps made them respond and gave me the desired results. As far as fruiting everything was in the same Martha and it all worked out well. Glad you posted this thread! I got some good info and insight from the community. I thank you for that and everyone for their thoughts.

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Thanks mwj12977, the temp is at a constant 77 to 79 degrees in the tent even with the fan at the bottom of the tent on super low (2.5 lowest level) even though it's 40 degrees outside.

Yes, I'm super excited now, thanks for watching and tips elasticaltiger and mwj12977.

Got rid of the 24 hour rainforest conditions that got me no where for 1.5 week, did the following 2 days ago:

1. Cracking the window made all the difference for FAE, I lowered the crack in the window from 1" down to just 1/4" crack, and it allows in plenty of fresh air yet no noise from outside, and the crack is hidden well behind the blinds, yet loads of fresh air can now enter the room! I can even feel the wind coming in from the crack.

2. lowered the fresh air gap at the bottom of the tent from 2" down to just 1/2" opening, this allows around 3 plus or so fresh air exchanges per hour, which is great for pans, the 2" opening was overkill.

3. Installed one of those super bright LED strings from a reel and put it on a 12 hour time ON from 7am till 8pm.

I came home today after just 2 days of the above changes, and see pins all over the place, even on the sides of the pyrex, they all point upwards towards the light. I so happy to see pins as I've never seen a mushroom pin in all my life.

Super excited as I was loosing faith, this has been a long months long project with lots of learning curves.

Pic 1: Tent is rolled up 1/2" at bottom to allow FAE in, and CO2 to exit.
Pic 2: A reel of LED lights was suspended above the trays, super bright, no more having to open any curtains, as the light coming into room was just not enough anyways.
Pic 3: A window near the martha tent is cracked 1/4" at all times to allow FAE into the room

 

[tregar]

For those who experience anxiety on shrooms...If you take shrooms along with 70mg of pure thh or tetrahydroharmine, not only does it eliminate anxiety, add crystal clear clarity, increased euphoria, but the shroom trip is extended by hours, done it countless times myself, absolutely incredible gorgeous experience. Thh is a psychedelic sri not maoi found in cappi. Damn near perfect psychedelic combo....other than that mescaline is all ready the perfect psychedelic, drank cactus tea over 150 times over many years. I love that it lasts incredibly long allready.

 

[tregar]

The tent for me at least has been a complete disaster, too many variable to contend with, nothing but aborts and no fruiting what so ever, side pins, even with a timer on a humidifier that goes up to 97% for 1/2 hour ON then down to 82% for 1/2 hour OFF has still not worked, and these are supposed to be optimum conditions for pan cyan. Variables that drive me crazy: how fast should fan run at bottom for FAE ?, how much of an opening on tent bottom ?, too moist ? too dry ? who knows..

I've switched to simplicity below, the tent can always be used to hold and grow grain jars, agar petri dishes, etc. at optimum temps.

Uses simply a sterile 54 quart (22.5 x 16 x 12.75") or a sterile 32 quart (18.5 x 14 7/8 x 11 1/8") tub

Sterilite 54 or 32 Quart Clear Gasket Box with Blue Latches & Gasket

--> Bod's Unmodified Monotub TEK:

BOD's Easy AF UnBODified Monotub TEK (No Holes No Polyfil) - Mushroom Cultivation - Shroomery Message Board

This tek is part of bod's cultivation is easy as fuck link list Bod's Unmodified Monotub TEK Quote: Bodhisatta said: All TEKs, by any author, that have results, can and will work. The TEK can only

www.shroomery.org

Bod said "This tub fruiting method is extremely low maintenance. No fanning is required, mist if needed, which will be infrequently. The lid is NOT latched down, EVER."

--> Baba Yaga Panaeolus in monotubs:

🍄🍄🍄 PANAEOLUS IN MONO TUBS 3.0 🍄🍄🍄 - Mushroom Cultivation - Shroomery Message Board

🍄🍄🍄 PANAEOLUS IN MONO TUBS 3.0 🍄🍄🍄 Feb 2023 This is the second update to the Pan In Tubs OP. I have added new findings about fruiting@spawn without casing, an easy substrate prep

www.shroomery.org

Baba Yaga said "Member kirkeng convinced me with his well performing unmodified tubs to give unmodded a try and I have to say that these are my new favorites. With those I fruit right at spawn and run subs without a casing. The lid goes on upside down."

Just grow pan cyans in unmodified sterlite 54 or 32 quart tubs, the lid does on upside down.

 

[tregar]

Elasticaltiger said:

Quote:

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Tregar, you went into this with so much confidence. What was your experience with growing mushrooms before? I wish you had reached out to the community for help with the issues you were encountering.

How did you select your cultures for the grow? Is there anything salvageable? It sounds like you just needed help dialing in the martha. The TCs tend to really try and dissuade new growers from automated setups for the reasons you've mentioned. They can be notoriously difficult to dial in.

I hope the tubs work out for you.

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Elasticaltiger...I've always been a good chemist, but really suck at growing all things, it's always been like that, give me something to extract, no problem, but I can't grow a darn thing.

I need help. I turned off the fan at the bottom of the martha tent, and turned on the ceiling fan to MEDIUM setting in the room, and changed tent bottom opening from 1.5" to 2.5".

This might be helping? the humidity goes up to 97 quickly while on 1/2 humidifier ON then down to 90 when OFF, perhaps it was drying out too quickly before, as humidity was dropping to 75 or 80 before. Now at least, it stays at 90 while off even when cold outside, this is more like the humidity parameters Asura used.

I will see how this works.

The window is still cracked 1/4" to allow fresh air into room also (depending on temp outside).

I don't know if the unmodified tubs will work during the winter as it get's down to 60 degrees in room at night, at least the tent stays warm.

Fresh air easily enters the tent from the bottom part that is rolled up due to ceiling fan running on MED, it's more of a slower air exchange which is what I think I needed, as things were drying up too quickly before.

I'll open up another colonized mycobag, put into tent and case 1/2 of it with just a few mm casing, other 1/2 of it uncased to see how it goes.

The fully colonized jars received only a few mm of casing and have also not reponding with pins or fruits at all, I'm hoping this modification with FAE helps.

It really sucks that I had clean grains, spawn and 100% still clean and colonized substrate in not only dishes (which I have since moved into aluminum cake pans) but jars as well. I did the hard part fine, people say fruiting is supposed to be easy, but just the opposite for me, may give up for good, to see no results. Work long weeks, work out twice a week as life long bodybuilder, little free time, just loosing faith in all this down the drain work. I've drank cactus tea over 150 times over many years, if this doesn't work, gonna stick with my cactus, just thought it might be possible to have an alternative as my rare cactus only provides so many limited opportunities for tripping, which have all exceeded my expectations anyways. The zero nausea Ayahausca capsules always work great, so either way I can just go back to what I'm used to....just took on more that I can handle.

 

[tregar]

This is my thread on 50 pan cyan trip reports and combo with 70mg THH or pure tetrahydroharmine:
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28108398/fpart/1/vc/1

Sterilite 54 or 32 Quart Clear Gasket Box with Blue Latches & Gasket

--> Bod's Unmodified Monotub TEK:
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/22337800/fpart/1/vc/1

Bod said "This tub fruiting method is extremely low maintenance. No fanning is required, mist if needed, which will be infrequently. The lid is NOT latched down, EVER."

--> Baba Yaga Panaeolus in monotubs:
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/27637997/vc/1

Baba Yaga said "Member kirkeng convinced me with his well performing unmodified tubs to give unmodded a try and I have to say that these are my new favorites. With those I fruit right at spawn and run subs without a casing. The lid goes on upside down."
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Great news!

I ditched the martha tent (only use it to grow out grains, jars, or mycobags, love both). As I had to throw out the cake pan from the attempted fruit in martha tent due to it just not fruiting, lack of pins. Too many variables to adjust and trial and error for a martha at least for this beginner.

And put the estero pan cyan substrate cakes which I birthed and 2 new estero pan cyan completely colonized substrate from the mycobags into 2 cake pans, this is what they look like only 3 days later, almost reconsolidated back together as pure white snow all over the top.

And bought 2 of the 54 quart sterilite clear gasket tubs, put the birthed cakes into it, along with the 2 cake pans.

I put programmable seedling heat mats under the tub but separated by can lids, so not touching, set thermostat to keep it at 80 degrees below, and the tubs stay at 76 degrees even when it's 55 degrees outside and around 70 degrees F inside the house at night. The air outside is humid due to lots of rain outside recently.

Punched holes in a piece of box cardboard to run the LED string light that comes on a reel, and plugged it into the timer that turns it on from 7am till 7pm.

The lid is of course put on upside down as per Bod's tek in first link below, ceiling fan off but I do keep the window cracked 1/4" behind the blinds which lets in a bit of fresh air from outside.

I misted only once the 1st day, and already see baby mushrooms all over the 7 jar cakes, the 2 cake pans should finish substrate reconsolidation after being moved from 100% colonized mycobag to the cake pans in about 3 more days, the mycelium is moving super fast to make it like snow all over the top.

Here is an estero pan cyan mushroom I picked from one of the cakes already.

I did not have any pins or mushrooms what so ever using expensive humidifiers and dual reptile heater at bottom with adjustable fan, while using the martha tent for almost over a month now...and all the sudden after moving into the Bod's tubs I have mushrooms in just 2 days!

The humidity stays between 94 to 99% all the time in the tub and the temp at 76 degrees F as I have electronic temp/humidity gauges in each tub.

I am so excited as the martha tent did not work for me, but the tubs rule at least in my case, so happy! I see baby mushrooms popping up all over the cakes just since yesterday!

Thank you Bod and Baba Yaga !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pic 1: I'm growing in two of the 54 quart sterlite tubs, and it's working !!!
Pic 2: Inside of one of the two tubs, the 7 birthed cakes the very first day they were put into tub, no mushrooms 1st day, but by next day, I have baby mushrooms all over the cakes, will take another pic when full grown.
Pic 3: I have a Vivo Home seedling heat mat 10" x 20.75" under each tub with can lids as spacers, and they fit perfectly and keep it perfect temp inside even with it being 55 degrees outside.
Pic 4: This estero pan cyan mushroom was picked already.
Pic 5: Piece of cardboard with punched holes on each end from large box with LED strip light reel is the lighting fixture.
Pic 6: Timer to keep lights on for 12 hours
Pic 7: LED strip light reel for price of a movie ticket.
Pic 8: Programmable seedling heat mat set to 80 degrees F underneath jar lids keeps it 76 degrees inside tubs during this January winter, even when it dips down to 50 degrees outside and 68 degrees in the house at night. Temp sensor probe for mats is stuffed underneath the heat mat itself as seen in 1st and 5th photos.
Pic 9: My pan cyan substrate broken up and added from mycobag seen fully reconsolidated in the cake pans or pyrex dish after 6 days.
Pic 10: Even adding a bit of grown out mycelium grain to jars full of sterilized horse poo/straw/vermiculite substrate become colonized in record time. I simply bought pre-packaged and pre-pasteurized 2.5 lbs bags of horse poo mixture substrate on line, added 2 cups or so to each pint jar, put lids on, sterilized at 15 psi for 1 hour, then in front of flow hood, poured some mycelium grain in, shook up, and it colonizes in a week.
Pic 11: The wide mouth jar cultivation lids with injection port and 0.2 micron filter can be bought on line for super cheap
Pic 12 and 13: The grain I started with, added wedges from Florida estero pan cyan agar plates to grain in front of flow hood.

 

[tregar]

MacMerdin's Simple Pan-Cakes * 52

MacMerdin's Simple Pan-Cakes - Mushroom Cultivation - Shroomery Message Board

I have been successful with the following species: Panaeolus bisporus, Panaeolus cambodginiensis, Panaeolus cyanescens, Panaeolus tropicalis and Panaeolus sect. Verricuspora using the methods below

www.shroomery.org

shot gun fruiting chamber (called this because it looks like a shotgun blew holes all in it):
Basic Principles of the Shotgun Fruiting Chamber (SGFC)

Basic Principles of the Shotgun Fruiting Chamber (SGFC) - Mushroom Cultivation - Shroomery Message Board

This is part of my series "The Basics" Principles and construction of Shotgun Fruiting Chambers (SGFC): This guide is not focused on PF/BRF cakes per se. It's really just the basics of how the SGFC

www.shroomery.org

The above is the best method I've found for growing pan cyan for beginners in 1/2 pint
jars in a shotgun fruiting chamber.

 

[tregar]

How things change....I'm still learning.

As I've gotten older, I've found more and more that cactus tea is harder to recuperate from, the experience is absolutely incredible the whole day and night I drink it, but the next day it feels like I "been thru a major operation" as someone else so eloquently described it, by mid day next day I am so tired I have to take a nap for hours, and even after napping I am often still a bit tired, it's not till the next day after that I feel pretty much back to normal.

The pan cyan mushrooms leave me able to sleep easily the night after taking them and back to normal the next day, which at my age is much easier to handle. I will save the cactus for special occasions like when I walk down to the water park down the road and go swimming all day long, hanging out in outdoor nature. I'm just not able to use the cactus as much as I used to, too much next day recuperation time.

As you all know, I have been having excellent results growing the pan cyan mushrooms in 1/2 pint jars as opposed to the pyrex trays which although grow out easily, just never did fruit for me.

--> What I love most about this method is that there is never any shaking, or mycelium reconsolidation or recuperation time, it's fast beginning to end. Also no 4 hour pc time, only 1 hour pc at 15 psi. <--

This is the recipe I use for the 1/2 pin TTBVI and blue springs strain pan cyans:

13 cups manure mix substrate (I get 2.5 lb or more pre-mixed dried horse manure/vermiculite/straw/coir/water at field capacity/minerals that has been pre-pasteurized and sold vacuum packed by a multitude of places on line)
3 cups ground brown rice
2 cups water

As seen above, the ground brown rice makes up around 23% of the ingredients.

I mixed all the above together in a bowl in kitchen sink, when I squeezed a handful in hand, only a few drops to several drops came out in fast stream, at field capacity.

Load into 21 of the 1/2 pint jars, don't pack down, you want it airy and fluffy like.

Add the wide mouth filter disk to each jar (can find on-line from many places)

cover the jars with foil

pc the 21 jars for 1 hour at 15 psi

The canner holds 3 layers of 7 jars (3 x 7 = 21 total). Add 2 quarts water to pc.

Let cool in canner overnight

Before I had done all this, I scraped TTBVI and blue springs pan cyan spores from off the print into many pre-poured petri dishes found on line from many places. This was done using a sterile scalpel (pack of scalpel are dirt cheap) in front of flow hood.

In only 5 days each of the petri dishes was 1/2 full of mycelium. (kept at 77 degrees F)

At that point, I used sterile scalpel to cut a large section from each petri dish, opened the 1/2 pint jar in front of flow hood, and inserted agar piece on to top of each jar, and stirred the agar around on top the jar before resealing it in front of flow hood, this spread the mycelium from off the agar on to the entire top of the inside of the jar.

Each petri dish gave me 4 large sections, so each petri dish was enough for 4 jars, even though I did not take advantage of that this time and just scraped spores into 1/2 of the petri dish.

Placed the 21 jars into tent which I kept at 77 degree F all the time using lava rock heater with reptile lamps.

By exactly 15 days later, all 21 jars are completely grown out as seen in photo.

Now I will allow 3 more days to pass, then this coming Thursday, will place each jar into the SGFC (shot gun fruiting chamber) with a very thin (less than 1/4" casing layer saturated with water) and hope for them to fruit. I will daily mist the casing layer when it gets dry using once a day misting. I am using a string of LED lights to supply the 12 hour on 12 hour off lighting.



Other threads similar to way I am growing:

MacMerdin's Simple Pan-Cakes * 52
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/18357343

shot gun fruiting chamber (called this because it looks like a shotgun blew holes all in it):
Basic Principles of the Shotgun Fruiting Chamber (SGFC)
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/20195542/fpart/all

https://mycotopia.net/topic/3295-waylits-pan-cyan-tek-plastic-jars/ (Waylit's Pan cyan Tek-- plastic jars)

 

[tregar]

Bezevo said:

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I MIGHT Have MISSED it but what were the proportions of the Manure mix (manure.../vermiculite,,,/straw..../coi..r/water) ?

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Bezevo, I just type in "manure mix casing" into google and select from any number of vendors and use their pre-mixed several lb mix, they do not give ratios of all the ingredients, but it is pre-pasteurized which allows me to pc it for 1 hour at 15 psi with the brown rice and added water.

As mentioned before, what I love most about this method is there is never any shaking, or mycelium reconsolidation or recuperation time, it's fast beginning to end. I am at day 23 since very beginning of spores scraped onto agar, and they are all ready to be put into SGFC today (I allowed 3 days of further growth after day 15 of all the jars 100% colonized).

I use 13 cups of horse manure casing mix no matter where it is from. I like the pre-vacuum packed mixes. I believe it is half vermiculite/half dried horse manure with added straw and coir, minerals and water to field capacity already.The pan cyan mycelium loves it.

Sure, I could use my own mix from scrap but I don't feel like pc for 4 hours. This is very similar to waylitjim's recipe except I am using 23% brown rice (similar to Macmerdin's 25% brown rice) instead of 10% brown rice like Waylitjim. Waylitjim suggested using more brown rice if starting from spores.

MacMerdin said:

Quote:

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I then place them directly into the SGFC after casing. I have seen people wait 48 hours for recovery but I find it not needed.

Here is the MacMerdin twist: I bury the jars/Ziploc bowls up to the top in the perlite. I figured that since a SGFC works from fresh air coming up through the bottom, I would use this fresh air as my FAE source.

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Another smart idea by MacMerdin:

Quote:

---

I use a water dropper (child medicine dropper) to drip water on the casing layer to keep it moist. Just drop water until it starts to pool a little and then don't moisten until you see that it has dried a bit more. Usually 1 or 2 times a day is sufficient.

I re-soak the perlite every week. The perlite becomes almost like quicksand. So watch that you don't lose them.

As for maintenance of the casing layer and misting/fanning:

Maintenance:

Since hearing advice from RR, I now mist the casing layer directly to keep it moist. Apply the casing layer at field capacity. After the casing has dried a bit, mist the casing until it starts to glisten a little and then don't moisten until you see that it has dried a bit more. Usually 1 time a day is sufficient.

Misting and Fanning:

I mist around the SGFC so that the mist gets blown around the chamber. Then I fan and mist the same way again.

---

MacMerdin's pan cyan fruiting in SGFC (1/4" holes every 2 inches on all 6 sides with bottom layer of pre-soaked and drained thru strainer perlite):

 

[nepalnt21]

what is a +5?

and does THH feel like other SSRIs? like prozac or that dirty dxm feeling?

i know some ppl do well on them, but i have grown to dislike the ssri yawny feeling.

 

[iom]

and does THH feel like other SSRIs? like prozac or that dirty dxm feeling?

i know some ppl do well on them, but i have grown to dislike the ssri yawny feeling.

Hello! I've started experimenting with THH. I'm sorry that I don't have experience with other SSRIs, so I can't make that comparison with confidence. What do SSRIs feel like? I've done 25 mg, 50mg, and 100 mg, spaced apart from 3 or 4 days so that I could observe the after-effects. In all cases, the effects were quite subtle, and in many ways, the after-effects were just as noticeable as the primary effects.

At 25 mg, I experienced a mood lift, an increase in talkativeness, and a bit of lowering of impulse control. It was strangely a bit like having a drink or two of alcohol but without the intoxication. This lasted for most of the day. That night, my sleep was quite restless. I think I spent much of it in REM but did not recall anything. The next day, I felt kind of stimulated, but not really hyperactive. It was rather pleasant. That second night I recalled an intense dream. The second day after, I was quite tired and a bit grumpy, but I slept well and felt quite good by day+3.

On 50 mg, I experienced the mood lift and a bit of color enhancement, which was kind of interesting because it doesn't feel trippy to me. I also found audio to be more engaging than usual. I noticed it was easy and rather pleasant to slip into day-dreams but also to immerse oneself in whatever one is doing. That night, my sleep was less disturbed than the first time but still obviously involved a lot of REM. The day after, I was very edgy and grouchy. By the second day after, I already felt mostly repaired.

On 100 mg, the effects noted at 50 mg were stronger. The introspection was much more pronounced and was clearly dominating the tendency toward talkativeness noted at the 25 mg dose. Music appreciation was very high. The night after, I slept quite well and noticed fewer sleep problems overall after this dose. I also did not experience much irritability. I don't believe this is because higher doses disrupt sleep less but rather that I had developed some kind of "tolerance" to this effect after taking a total of 3 doses within the span of a week. If my model below is correct, then this "tolerance" may simply be a matter of SRT density having already reached some kind of maximum after my first 2 doses.

I must emphasize that even at 100 mg, the effects were pretty subtle. In all three trials, I noticed that right around the peak which develops somewhere between 2.5-5 hours in, I feel just a tiny sparkle of something psychedelic, but it's never anything more than that. Even at 100 mg, THH feels less psychedelic than say 2 mg of 2C-B. I'm more inclined to call it a oneirogenic neurotropic. It definitely enhances dreaming, and this enhancement seems not to depend on whether the subject is awake or not. It also may have an overall tonic effect on the serotonergic systems of the body.

Does my description above sound like an SSRI to you? I'm actually inclined to think of it as a kind of "anti-SSRI". Let me explain. As I understand things, pharmaceutical SSRIs cause reduced expression of the serotonin transporter over the long-term. This causes the drug effects to build with chronic administration as the number of serotonin reuptake transporters (SRTs) are reduced and serotonin is allowed to persist in the synapse longer, even without the drug blocking the SRT. This is one hypothesis for why it takes some weeks for SSRIs to reach their full effect.

Now I've seen it reported that THH is a "weak SSRI", but I have not seen details of the assay which supports this claim. My guess is that all that is known is that THH interacts with the SRT weakly. Essentially anything that interacts with a receptor but does not activate it as aggressively as the canonical ligand is technically an antagonist because it competes with the canonical ligand, limiting its ability to bind. So is THH an SSRI? Probably in some sense, just as DMT is arguably technically an SSRI, but in reality the interaction of DMT with SRT is much more interesting than that of an inhibitor. SRT can uptake DMT as though it were serotonin, which at once removes it from the synapse, but also DMT ends up stored in vesicles and then released much later under conditions in which serotonin would have been released. DMT inside the neuron may also interact with receptors inside to effect all kinds of interesting changes including to gene expression. It's possible that THH also merely "rides" the SRT to get into the cell or otherwise uses the SRT to access other functionality such as modification of gene expression.

In complete contrast to pharmaceutical SSRIs, THH is observed to cause *increased expression* of SRT. My thinking is that some hours after taking THH, SRT density begins to increase all over the body. The biggest changes may occur within 48 hours or so. With more SRTs, serotonin is depleted from the synapse more rapidly. This temporarily leads to a drop in activation of post-synaptic receptors, which may lead to the after-effects I have noted. Of course within a few days, the post-synaptic serotonin receptors begin to up-regulate, and chronic upregulation leads to increased expression, and so on. Eventually the body (SRTs are not just in the brain but also in the guts and platelets where they modulate serotonin activity for the purposes of digestion and wound/damage response, respectively) adjusts to a new steady-state in which more SRTs remove 5ht from the synapse more rapidly but this is compensated for by some combination of post-synaptic upregulation and adaptations involving pre-synaptic mechanisms. A potential upshot of this shift is that it maybe makes things more robust against shocks because more serotonin is being stored for later use. An exciting question is whether THH could be somehow used to assist with or treat the consequences of SSRI discontinuation. I'm not in a position to recommend this to anyone though, and it may be quite risky.

I think a deficiency of serotonin in the synapse may explain most of these after effects. Here is what I noted: decreased sleeping time and more time spent in REM; increased energy, wakefulness and physical stamina (much like stimulants); increased appetite (not at all like stimulants); tinnitus; some tendency toward anxiety or emotionally cold/agitated states; immune modulation and possible suppression---for some reason I got acne the day after each of my three doses. All these after-effects mostly faded within a couple days. I do note that for about a week after my third dose, I still felt like I was settling a bit as (presumably) the serotonin effects started to come back online again. Perhaps a slight bias toward lower serotonin could persist in the long-term, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. Except for the transient moodiness (which I did not encounter after the 100 mg dose) and the tinnitus, I haven't found the after-effects to be particularly unpleasant. The tinnitus was mild and most prominent in the morning. I don't believe it was indicative of toxicity because it went away after a few days just like most of the other after-effects. In any case, it's harder to say what happens after T+1 week because I drank some cactus tea which has strong after-effects of its own.

Anyway, I intend in the future to try 150 mg and probably 200 mg on its own some time, and I also hope to try THH combined with some psychedelics. I'm skeptical of the claims made in this thread and in other places about THH dramatically enhancing trips in general, but I'll still give it a shot. Perhaps it does potentiate DMT by momentarily blocking the SRTs to keep them from sucking DMT out of the synapse too fast. Now, supposing THH enhances a shroom or mescaline trip, what happens if I take THH with a drug like 2C-E? I'm very intrigued by the idea of this combo.

Edit: I should add that I have drank ayahuasca several times, with DMT, 5-Meo-DMT (don't recommend---tried to kill me), and mescaline. I have not taken Syrian Rue nor any other purified harmala alkaloids. THH reminded me a lot of ayahuasca but lighter and more subtle overall.

 

[iom]

How things change....I'm still learning.

As I've gotten older, I've found more and more that cactus tea is harder to recuperate from, the experience is absolutely incredible the whole day and night I drink it, but the next day it feels like I "been thru a major operation" as someone else so eloquently described it, by mid day next day I am so tired I have to take a nap for hours, and even after napping I am often still a bit tired, it's not till the next day after that I feel pretty much back to normal.

I don't suppose it's possible that this intense rest you are taking on the day after your cactus experiences may be something your body needed regardless, and the cactus is merely helping the body to do what it needs to do? My subjective experience of mescaline is that it keeps "working" for something like 5 days after the experience. Now, I don't think the drug is still active for that long, but rather the drug initiates a cascade of effects, some of which involve epigenetic mechanisms that can continue for a very long time. The "working" I refer to may be literally the earlier stages of the process of tissue healing and restoration. When we wound or injure ourselves, damage to blood vessels causes serotonin to be released. Nearby platelets initially amplify this release by dumping much of their stored serotonin. This kicks off a cascade of wound/damage response effects, which ultimately lead to tissue regeneration and healing. Psychedelics in the body may initiate a similar cascade of effects but not necessarily in an identical manner as serotonin. Actual effects may vary between drugs, and the specifics aren't studied well yet. I've personally felt mescaline to be a top tier psychedelics for healing purposes along with ayahuasca (the vine) and 2C-E (no not taken together!). I have taken ayahuasca with mescaline together (in a cactus free of tyramine, etc.) and felt it was profoundly healing.

 

[tregar]

Iom, thanks so much for your THH experiments ! I will be reading your post entirely and comment here tomorrow, unfortunately have to run an errand, but be back, thanks again for your comments!

Progress page 4: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28108398/fpart/4

So this beginner has failed twice before trying to grow pan cyan using a martha tent with expensive humidifiers and trays, zero mushrooms would fruit, however, once switching to the tech followed by McMerdin and Waylitjim, I finally am seeing great results!

Other threads similar to way I am growing:

MacMerdin's Simple Pan-Cakes * 52 https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/18357343

shot gun fruiting chamber (called this because it looks like a shotgun blew holes all in it):
Basic Principles of the Shotgun Fruiting Chamber (SGFC https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/20195542/fpart/all

https://mycotopia.net/topic/3295-waylits-pan-cyan-tek-plastic-jars/ (Waylit's Pan cyan Tek-- plastic jars)

I pasteurized the casing by putting it into a paper cup, poured boiling hot water into the cup, and let the casing soil sit for a few hours, then poured into a strainer, and the casing was room temp and ready to use in just hours, put less than a 1/4" layer on top each jar (just a few mm), misted once in the morning and once again at night (only twice a day). I misted real well, till the casing was "glistening" with moisture. Just like roger rabbit said, the SGFC is great for people who have jobs where you are away more than 10 hours a day (which I am), it's perfect.

Once the baby mushrooms formed, I then used this long pipette seen in photo to carefully apply water (around 1/4 of the pipette full) all over the casing and around the pins (stopped misting directly) but then after doing that would give around 6 to 8 total misting from far above the SGFC so it would gently rain down from way above down onto all the jars.

At night it would get down to 68 degrees F, so I used an oil filled radiant heater (simply pushed the button on the heater to set it at 75 degrees F) at night to keep it at exactly 75 degrees till I would wake up and turn the heater off. You want to always HEAT THE ENTIRE ROOM and never just the SGFC (or you will bake the mushrooms dry). During the day no heater needed, as it was 76 degrees most of the time. This heater rules as it does not dry the room out, and it makes ZERO sound, completely silent, and uses very little electricity.

Pic below is around 10 days after putting the half pint jars into the SGFC (1/4" holes every 2"). It has 4.5" of perlite on bottom which was moistened outside using garden hose, shook the 54 quart sterile tub back and forth for the perlite to drain, then took it inside, and put a 18" x 12.5" cooling rack on top the perlite, it fit the 54 quart (22.5 x 16 x 12.75") perfectly! I placed the jars on top the rack.

Every 7 days (each Friday) I "re-charge" the perlite by re-wetting it so it will again last for 7 more days. The humidity meter always reads 99% at all times every day.

With the SGFC, air comes up thru the perlite to humidify the chamber. As evaporation happens it creates an area of lower pressure relative to the air in the upper part of the SGFC. So humidified air comes up from the perlite and out the top holes giving CONSTANT FAE with out drying out too much during the day and night.

It's a workout drilling all the holes, so be prepared, I used a pair of dikes to then cut off any curled up plastic from around the holes, this worked well. I drilled outside while watching the puppies play.

You do not want to run any fans in the room, just allow your central A/C to come in as normal from the ceiling above, but you do want to crack a window about 1/4" behind the curtains which is what I did to keep the air fresh (not stale) just as Roger Rabbit said he always keeps a window cracked to allow in fresh air at all times, no matter what the temp is outside, I concur.

Lighting was supplied by a Grow Light LED Gooseneck Lamp,6500K 80W Full Spectrum 144 LED Plant Lamp Clip-on Desk. I used MILK CRATES under the SGFC as someone else said to do so that air could enter the bottom holes of the SGFC just fine while allowing strong support for the heavy SGFC.

You know what they say, "third time is a charm", this beginner has never grown any kind of mushrooms before, and happy that pan cyan is my first, can't wait to sample. Thanks so much shroomery members for all your help! I can't thank you enough.

 

[tregar]

The TTBVI and blue springs pan cyan jars even fruit without a casing, as an experiment, these 2 jars were birthed, dunked in water for 20 hours, then rolled in vermiculite, and fruited just fine.