Jabberwocky
Frumious Bandersnatch
I can't remember for sure - and it's not my personal experience - but think it's either odyssey or profile that are crazy reliable in their lifetime warranties for cranks (ie they'll replace them for any riding-related bending/breaking) For sure tho, most manufacturers try to make this hard (duh) and i cannot imagine warranties being of any worth if you didn't send your warranty card in upon purchase (and you still have receipt / etc)Has anyone ever had any warranty experience with the manufacturer of their bike? How did that work out for you, what was your experience and did they treat YOU right in iyho?
I ride Jamis Parker full suspension bike. Its offered up as a do it all very aggressive/light downhill/4x bike that you can ride from the mountain and park or 4x race and then stop on the way home at the Coffee Joint.
I am going through the process right noaw of sourcing a new rear broken swing arm with a Jamis Bicycles Representative in my area.
Ive been riding a 1992 Japanese 4130 chromoly Univega Alpina Pro 26 inch. Its retrofitted with u brakes and has Shimano lx shifters and a mix of other very good components. Its very light ( sub 20lbs ) and I ride smooth 2.3 tires that handle up to 80p.s.i. I.ve got fenders for the front and the back as its my 2nd bike.
I'll post pics when I find my camera.
anyways though, <20lbs?? WTF? Dude are you sure about that? my ride is like ~24ish lbs.'s, and that's 4130/jap frame (at 21" top tube), smaller wheels (20" wheels and you're 26", and mine are 2.2 to your 2.3), w/ no brakes, no nothing (well, maybe 1/4lbs from my plastic pegs) Was under the impression that you needed to go aluminum, like w/ street bikes, to get sub-20lbs? My aftermarket bars, and aftermarket stem, are both lighter (and stronger

cannot wait for the pics

THANK YOU, i'm stoked even if you're the only one who watched that! The sport has come so far and it still gets no credit (ex.: garrett reynolds wikipedia page has been put up 3 times, and is always removed - he has won 6 or 7 xgames gold medals in bmx street, and he's apparently not worthy of a wiki pageBMXXX, I watched the vid you linked. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?annot...&feature=iv&src_vid=AjVAemENLXY&v=TVXOvRIC4q8]
I imagine your fit ass doing some of that stuff featured on the vid.

/and thanks for that ego-booster lol, but my small, fit ass is only hitting 180's like 1/4 the time, and I can only do 3 types of grinds w/ any reliability - and that's on ledges, not handrails lol!
It is cramped, and, on such a small setup, it's mind-blowing how huge the smallest adjustments feel; i've been doing <1/4" adjustments to my grips' position via the stem for a couple weeks now, and am still a few mm off from my ideal.I haven't rode a 20in in 2 decades. It looks so cramped. I am thinking about either fixing my Dyno Slammer with a 1 1/8 aheadset and proper fork, running a slammed straight seatpost and cushy seat and putting my radial laced rims on it. It doesn't have the posts for a u brake. I need a 3 piece crank and small sprocket also.
...But, I am intrigued by the sub $300 beautiful bikes you can buy from pinkbike.com
What year was that dyno? Many of the older gt/dyno rigs do not take 3-piece cranks, at least not any 3-piece setups you'd wanna ride... do you know if the bottom bracket is american, mid or euro? Many of those were american bottoms (the biggest of the bottoms- do a google image search to see what i mean) and the only way to put 3-piece cranks in is w/ kits or random, unheard-of products. I'm also curious what you mean about the 1+1/8" threadless headtube/fork setup, cuz if the frame is a wedge setup for the fork/stem like many of those were, that's a thinner headtube and won't take the wider 1 1/8" fork's steerer tube plus the headset bearings.
/slammed seats are so f'ing cool but difficult if you're not comfortable w/ the flexibility to squat "ass to heels" reliably.. hell, i've been alternating between ~4" of post, and 100% slammed*, for over a week now, and on days when my legs are sore it's really uncomfortable trying to sit on a slammed seat - i just stand the entire ride lol! (*i've been switching up based on what riding i'm doing... i do prefer a 4" post-height for sitting while cruising, but it's essential for me to hit barspins anywhere over 50% of the time; on the other hand, slammed looks sexy but, more importantly, it's all but essential for me right now because i've been trying real hard to hit a proper tailwhip and i need all the clearance i can get for getting that frame back under me! I know this sounds really lame, and i'd be *literally* the only one i've ever seen who's had this, but I'm about to put an adjustable-bolt into my seat-clamp, so i can just adjust the fucker for what i'm trying to do. I know it's tacky and will look ridiculous on a minimalist bmx but, well, function over form any.fucking.second

yes, yes it will be! It's mind-blowing dude, and when you get used to 2 very different bikes it's fuct at first but it becomes really cool. I ride a fixed-gear, ~27" street bike (700) with no brakes, and a 20" bmx cassette w/ no brakes. The difference is so huge - hell, even seats: I like a pretty 'tight' seat on my street bike (ie, about as high as I can properly touch my pedals from), and almost no seat on bmx (when my seat is slammed, i frequently bang my ass on my rear tire, lol!) The difference is huge but it's, as you said, a nice contrast - I wouldn't have it any other way, at least until i'm living somewhere that i'd want to have a 26", proper mtb setup for trails i could hit w/ some regularity.It will be a nice contrast to my 26 in full suspension bike.
I've got a handful of improvements on my bike that was already near-perfect, so time to update lol:



[it'd be nice if someone could just verify whether there are 3 pics above this sentence - I don't dare log out of imgur, cuz i don't know the password i set it to or the email account's password for retrieval lol, so as soon as cookie's clear that account is inaccessible!]
SO I got a new bike at an insane price, as mentioned earlier in-thread, but these pics were taken just now and show what i've done:
- pedals upgraded to Odyssey twisted PC's in clear blue (will need to replace them soon, too, cuz i have a bad habit of putting my foot down while grinding and am just shredding pedal spikes off

- bars were cut-down to 26.5" and I somehow stretched the ODI grips to be long enough to cover the beginning of the bend (~1" of the bend) in the bars; stem was flipped upside-down for maybe 6mm of a drop in bar height
- added 2 plastic pegs, front/back lamps (we get ticketed around here if it's after dark and we don't jet when cops come), and the drive-side hubguard (the black plastic thing in the 2nd pic that looks like a huge washer on the rear axle, between the pinch bolt and the dropout)
- swapped the odyssey bluebird chain for a nickel KMC 510 chain (woulda grabbed a 710 - the best available for my purposes, as far as i have been able to discern, but it's only available online and i was impatient, so grabbed a 510. the bluebird that was on the bike when i got it, was an odyssey re-branding of a kmc 510, but i've had some massive fuckups/injuries from failed-chains so i still replaced it, just as a CYA measure)
I f'd up and spent too much $ today so this'll have to wait some days, but the last thing this bike needs to be *100%* my perfect bike, is a sprocket guard (or, a sprocket w/ built-in guards). It's ~30 for a guard to attach to my sprocket, and ~50-60 for a sprocket w/ built-in guards (like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUNDAY-28T-...MX-Bike-Odyssey-Sean-Sexton-fit-/111413138604 ) This needs to happen, cuz i'm really a bitch when it comes to my chain's integrity, and i'm already mashing the fuck out of my chain/sprocket on like half of the failed grinds of a particular type (the feeble grind; usually, when i f it up, i end up spinning to my right and mashing the sprocket...)
Hopefully will have this upgraded within a week.. woulda been this evening if i was better at managing my $ lol!
/yes, yeah yeah that is a hellfire skateboard sticker on my headtube.. i'm only bmx'ing now but skated and bladed (and snowboarded) very much in my past, and i just love the hellfire logo above any other logo on the planet, so when my local store had that sticker w/ a silver-holographic background to it, i put it on headtube of my bmx and one on my fixie's headtube


am unsure if these pics are even visible to anyone but me (cannot log-out of imgur to check a 'public' approach/view, cuz i cannot log back in lol), but just took this for a forum i'm loving (bike forum, obviously):

shot just now, it's my bmx beside my fixie, both have same head-tube sticker and both are my equally-loved steeds

[edit: @b: dude, i get what you mean about how weird it is to switch it up - look at my 2 main bikes, i can ride hard on both and it's funny seeing them side.by.side like this, it just makes clear how different the riding is! On the fixie i'm wayyy higher, i'm (obvi) on a fixed chain where i cannot stop my feet, and my weight distribution has me jutted forward - if anything goes wrong, i'm over the bars for sure, but luckily it's very easy to gauge, the gear ratio is proper and i can feel it out well, i don't ride in fear like on my bmx.. On my bmx, the position is almost the opposite, instead of 'ass-up/back' on the seat, it's squatting even lower and hovering above a (slammed)seat. I'm prolly describing that terribly now but I think the picture of both my bikes - both of which are about as perfect as i could want, for their particular purpose - shown side.by.side, are kind of telling about the variances in riding styles. I probably spend my time at ~60/40 on fixie/bmx, simply cuz bmx sessions are short/intense and fixie sessions are long/smooth/distance rides. I probably spend, in terms of energy expenditure, 80% on bmx and 20% on fixie.
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