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  • BDD Moderators: notsmokeymcpot42088 | RUC4

Cocaine acetone washed coke is worse than before

maybe this is what I'm missing to an extent, sorry I'm trying to learn, bare with me!

so in other words that 20 times differences is plenty enough for an acetone wash to remove enough of the caffeine to make it a viable wash for caffeine, is that what you're saying?


isn't that exactly what we want?


you can just buy anhydrous acetone, the specs on it will say how dry it is

According to your chart caffeine is 100 times less soluable than coke in water. Do you think anything less than 100% should work?
 
And even if we'd dry the acetone, dry the water, la la la la do we think users on Bluelight who just want a clean shot have the experience to do this 100% accurately?
 
If those questions can't be answered then page 2 is very misleading. Everyone's help and contributions are appreciated but can we admit that we aren't scientists.
 
maybe this is what I'm missing to an extent, sorry I'm trying to learn, bare with me!

so in other words that 20 times differences is plenty enough for an acetone wash to remove enough of the caffeine to make it a viable wash for caffeine, is that what you're saying?


isn't that exactly what we want?


you can just buy anhydrous acetone, the specs on it will say how dry it is
According to your chart caffeine is 100 times less soluable than coke in water. Do you think anything less than 100% should work?
and HEAT causes coke to degrade, the thermal degradation temp is high but its an ester, and heat destroys ester compounds like coke (and if its cut with soda, its gonna wanna to go free base in presence of water and warmth)

thus the acetone
next, we want to bring that shit back to 7.3 ph for the human body too, so after the evap of the acetone (very rapid at room temp btw) so no heat, they can dissolve the shit in water
but injecting this to begin with im against,

insufflation but to each their own, drug world is dangerous game
 
If you're one of those idiots giving shit information on purpose to make Bluelight less credible you can bet on me shutting that down from now on.
 
Oh word, easy peasy. Assuming you even know what you're saying, which I'm not convinced you do because you can't answer my simple question.
you assumed ya got all the sugars and whatnot' out first (otherwise all that water taking those too whereas not with acetone, id personally do both in proper order)

i stated: "
You can likely expect to remove: Sugars, starches, inorganic fillers, and many simple inorganic salts. These would remain as the undissolved residue.
You would likely not remove:
Lidocaine HCl, Procaine HCl, Tetracaine HCl (and similar local anesthetic salts).
Amphetamine/Methamphetamine HCl (or sulfates) to a significant extent.
Caffeine."
none of this is perfect and solubility is only part of the process, theres more to it like ratio per weights based upon solubility charts
 
maybe this is what I'm missing to an extent, sorry I'm trying to learn, bare with me!

so in other words that 20 times differences is plenty enough for an acetone wash to remove enough of the caffeine to make it a viable wash for caffeine, is that what you're saying?


isn't that exactly what we want?


you can just buy anhydrous acetone, the specs on it will say how dry it is
yeah except that heat gonna ruin ya yield and major product
but ya can do it, evap that water i never said ya couldnt
 
....okay

Well does anyone know how to make acetone 100% dry? Isn't there a method to dry the acetone completely? Maybe anhydrous acetone isn't enough.
desiccants
none of which we can get outside a lab for this purpose
not even drying tube imho would work bcuz azeotropic point between acetone and water is 95% max before it starts sucking water out air back to 95%

Edit: removed my snark comments

Added: proper Azeotrope (if i dumped water into acetone and began fractal distillation to separate them again, i would get to point where i can only remove the water up to 12%)
leaving 88% azeotrope,
whereas, taking dept store acetone (99%) pure acetone, and left the cap off or poured a glass full of acetone,, it would slowly take in water from surrounding air to a rough point of 95% due to miscibility

tricky but i want to be precise and accurate
 
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Regarding the preparation of acetone, If you want to dry what you have 3A molecular sieves are best, but acetone is prone to catalyze self-aldol condensation so the slightly basic nature of sieves can make things a little tricky.

If working with technical grade acetone I'd recommend laypersons use Drierite (anhydrous calcium sulfate) as is or simple dehydrated Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) as a drying agent.

Place Epsom salts on a baking tray, then bake in oven at 250c for 2 hours, allow to cool in oven without opening the door. When the oven door is cool to touch take out and brake up any clumps, this prepared magnesium sulfate should be used immediately.

Have the acetone nearby in a jar, add the dried Epsom salt or Drierite cover with aluminum foil fastened with a rubber band and lightly slosh it around then allow to stand for about ten minutes. Then filter and store in a sealed container with as little headspace as possible.

Now Drierite or dried Epsom will not get it as dry as sieves, but it is good enough for most applications.
 
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Regarding the preparation of acetone, If you want to dry what you have 3A molecular sieves are best, but acetone is prone to catalyze self-aldol condensation so the slightly basic nature of sieves can make things a little tricky.

If working with technical grade acetone I'd recommend laypersons use Drierite (anhydrous calcium sulfate) as is or simple dehydrated Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) as a drying agent.

Place Epsom salts on a baking tray, then bake in oven at 250c for 2 hours, allow to cool in oven without opening the door. When the oven door is cool to touch take out and brake up any clumps, this prepared magnesium sulfate should be used immediately.

Have the acetone nearby in a jar, add the dried Epsom salt or Drierite cover with aluminum foil fastened with a rubber band and lightly slosh it around then allow to stand for about ten minutes. Then filter and store in a sealed container with as little headspace as possible.

Now Drierite or dried Epsom will not get it a dry as sieves, but it is good enough for most applications.
drierite i couldnt find w/o lab
klean strip was sds listed 100% acetone
 
yeah except that heat gonna ruin ya yield and major product
but ya can do it, evap that water i never said ya couldnt
Acetone is better than water for purifying cocaine HCl because it:


  1. Preserves Cocaine Structure: Acetone evaporates at 56°C, minimizing heat that can hydrolyze cocaine (an ester) into ecgonine and benzoic acid, which degrades potency.
  2. Selective Solubility: While cocaine HCl is highly soluble in water, acetone preferentially dissolves many organic impurities (like oils) that can contaminate cocaine, allowing for a cleaner separation.
  3. Lower Risk of Hydrolysis: Water's higher evaporation temperature increases the risk of hydrolyzing the cocaine ester linkage. Acetone reduces this risk, preserving the drug's chemical integrity.
  4. Easier Recovery: Acetone's volatility means cocaine HCl can be more easily isolated through evaporation or vacuum drying without the high heat that water requires.

Water's high evaporation point (100°C) can hydrolyze cocaine's ester linkage, turning it into ecgonine and benzoic acid—essentially destroying the drug. Acetone (56°C) is much safer for preserving that linkage.

if ya wanna ruin ya product go right ahead ruin the ester linkage when heating that water to evap it
This process is particularly important if you're dealing with cocaine hydrochloride, as the salt form is more stable but still susceptible to hydrolysis when heated in water. Starting with acetone ensures you're removing impurities while keeping the active compound intact.

But youre right water is gonna dissolve it HIGHLY
 
That's good info, I just really doubt anyone looking to quickly wash a bag of coke will know how to do it properly.
 
yeah except that heat gonna ruin ya yield and major product
but ya can do it, evap that water i never said ya couldnt
ahha!

heat, that's the kicker. bit impractical to wash with water then given how long it would take to evaporate it off, I just had a quick search and in aqueous solution coke starts to degrade at 70C, so keeping it at 60C would be fine but that's gonna take a bit of control and time to evaporate it off - I guess it's not undoable, but much easier to just do a single Acetone wash.

If you're one of those idiots giving shit information on purpose to make Bluelight less credible you can bet on me shutting that down from now on.
dude, they're actually giving good advice, not sure why you're beating on them so hard?
 
That's good info, I just really doubt anyone looking to quickly wash a bag of coke will know how to do it properly.
im not trying start off topic argument, bcuz thats taking away from our discussion my bad
COKE
Water 1°C 150
Acetone 1°C 0.04

CAFFIENE
Water 1°C 1.5
Acetone 1°C 1.2


so in cold ass water, youre right its dissolving coke up
but in acetone, i know my coke is gonna stay nice in pure, its not gonna get all dissolved together with hardly much caffiene at all, in fact 1.2 g caffeine in 100ml acetone, only .04g of coke in 100ml acetone
means my coke isnt gonna dissolve and break down much, caffiene will
whereas, 200g of coke just got dissolved and broken down and 2g of caffeine with water (say 200ml of water so i can account for both mass ratios)

id rather potentially play around with at max .04g (4 hundreths of a gram of coke in the wash) opposed to 1.2g being played around with in solution


If the goal is keeping the “coke” compound from dissolving, the chart suggests acetone is the better choice.
If the goal is extracting/dissolving caffeine, neither has a huge advantage at 1°C, but water is slightly stronger by the numbers given
If the goal was to prove 100ml water can dissolve more cocaine than caffeine, you win lol
 
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Cocaine is used mainly by those in the business of media - we know this because it is the first thing they will tell you when on the drug. In fact you will soon learn many things about this person, none of which you ever wanted to.

-Marcel lucont
 
in aqueous solution coke starts to degrade at 70C, so keeping it at 60C would be fine

That isn't correct... It at least isn't that black and whithe.

The hydrolysis(degradation due to reaction with water) is present even at low temperatures and starts from the point of dissolution in water.

The reaction speed is of course affected by heat, but even more so by neutral-to-moderate-sour pH(7,5-4,0) of the aquaeos solution - if evaporating an aqueous cocaine solution, pH will start in this zone and turning more sour as the water evaporates.

The half-life of cocaine in aqueous solution pH 7.25 @ 40 °C, is ~5 hours...
 
That isn't correct... It at least isn't that black and whithe.

The hydrolysis(degradation due to reaction with water) is present even at low temperatures and starts from the point of dissolution in water.

The reaction speed is of course affected by heat, but even more so by neutral-to-moderate-sour pH(7,5-4,0) of the aquaeos solution - if evaporating an aqueous cocaine solution, pH will start in this zone and turning more sour as the water evaporates.

The half-life of cocaine in aqueous solution pH 7.25 @ 40 °C, is ~5 hours...
thanks for the info, that makes it even worse!
 
I don't know a great deal about washing but couldn't this just be as simple as it's cut with something that acetone doesn't wash out?

IIRC even paracetamol/tynenol/asprin doesn't get fully removed from a cold acetone wash, you need to do a 2nd warm wash with it to help with solubility.

37% loss seems pretty shit, clearly cut with something, and I think paracetamol is a pretty common cutting agent these days sadly
Try ethyl acetate. This solvent is way more effective than acetone and the same process. You don't even need to filter. Just add in beaker, stir for a few min, wait 30 secs so the coke layer at the bottom forms, pour off the clearer EA, add more EA and repeat, then scoop goop up on to drying surface (hotplate optional) and wait at least 24 hours. I done it in 8 hours after hotplating the whole time but you should wait 24.

Thank me later.
 
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