I love the way canna growers can take the simplest of ideas and turn it into something so effective.
Check this awesome growing technique. Training with a stick. I might try it as well as trellising (training onto a fence).
Basically what AE said, but yeah I just want to try them. They are kind of hyped and I can't get many good sativas up here without going to a dispensary, so an extra pound would be greatSalutations FreeHugs,
It's not all clear to me: why would you want to grow an auto-flowering strain outdoors when there's never 18 - 20 hours of daylight and even less sunlight?...
The benefit of being an "auto", i thought, would be a brief life-cycle as a result of receiving more light daily. If the seeds are germinated outdoors now then the vegetative phase won't be optimal and then it would only seem natural that they don't deliver a havest up to normal expectations. Personally i'd want to complete a satisfying early development phase, expecially when considering its flowering phase wouldn't be optimal neither... Only then i'd bring them under the sun to benefit from the protection of natural parasite predators, etc. Thinking some UV may do them good too.
Please tell where i've got it all wrong if i have!
Plus right now I get 12+ hours of full, hot ass sun so they will be great.
When I say fencing just to clarify I don't mean a scrog type setup, but rather the fencing at a right angle to the ground, training the foliage along one verticle plane. This could be facing the south, to increase light exposure compared to conventional growing. So in a way it would be like scrog, but instead of the scrog screen at a right angle to the grow bulb, it would be at a right angle to the south itself. This will increase yield quite a bit, and not just through creating more tops but as I said, exposing more foliage to the max amount of sunlight possible.
Instead of chicken wire it would use two posts 1 to 2 metres long 1 to 3m apart (driven into the ground) and wires stretched between them at 30-45cm intervals, like a wire fence or grape trellis. As long as it's oriented on an east-west axis it should give maximum sun exposure.
Here is what I mean:
Strain is not too much of a factor. A common growing method here is very large smart pots. I use 200, 300 and 400's. I would say 4-5 lbs in 100 gallons is pretty achievable for anyone knowledgeable and skilled in growing. A big factor is location. I am in the heart of the emerald triangle in northern California. There is a reason why these mountains produce much of the marijuana in the US. We won't get any more rain here until the fall. A good south exposure provides the plants with full sun all day. Without the location it is impossible to achieve such yields.
Salutations FreeHugs,
I conducted a simple experience once with percolated water collected at the bottom of my vase, thinking it would cause less stress if the seed could germinate in a medium having a PH level closer to that of the soil where it was going to grow a couple days later. This has never been sorted out for sure but i've observed what looked like a cracking skin of goo all over that seed's surface at the time and i also recall the smell was so terrible i thought it was about to die...
Good day, have fun!
Great post
Wait so just because the "silt" (what I'm guessing you're talking about when you say the material is not good for root growth) is in the tea you don't feed them every time with it? Man if you were just to strain your teas better I'm sure you could completely do away with synthetic nutrients, if you even use any. Plants can easily survive on worm castings tea alone, but if you had say seaweed extract, molasses, composted materials, and alfalfa meal, you pretty much have a complete nutrient for your plant that you can feed at every single watering without having to worry about burning.
