• Psychedelic Drugs Welcome Guest
    View threads about
    Posting RulesBluelight Rules
    PD's Best Threads Index
    Social ThreadSupport Bluelight
    Psychedelic Beginner's FAQ

the volcano tek

why not just add more sodium carbonate after each naptha pull?


i mean, i am getting dmt out of it, ive smoked it on numerous occasions.

some dmt goes up into the naptha, the rest that stays behind gets deprotonated with more sodium carbonate..... all you gotta do is add a tad after each pull

ps i reallyl want this thread name changed its mad embarrassing
 
Last edited:
What exactly do you want it changed to? This:

the volcano tek, a lyeless tek that still uses shitty naptha but makes your dmt ten times as amazing as using lye

is too long a title.
 
lol hahahahah uhh kinda got carried away there

just the volcano tek would be fine =D


oh and word from the other side:

Where does that data come from? The water solubility for tryptamine itself is listed as "slightly" or "negligible" (~35-40g/liter), you would think at very low temperatures (freezing or less with a little NaCl) it would still precipitate...

Quote:
it was weird though, there would be this white precipitate that yeilds crystally pasty stuff that is dmt (rele good dmt too) but it forms when you add the calcium carbonate, then goes right back into solution about five minutes later! end Quote

That's strange, I wonder what's going on. Unless you didn't add very much CaCO3 and CO2 came into the solution and reacted with it. Calcium carbonate isn't a terribly strong base and isn't very water soluble. In fact in the presence of large amounts of CO2 it becomes acidic. You may not get good results until you use NaOH or KOH.
 
As I said in the ADD thread, you need to use a strong base (KOH or NaOH to pH 11-12) to make the product precipitate out in chilled water. pH 9 is too low for an amine that's already fairly basic. If you add a little brine you should even be able to get it to crystallize faster because you can get the temperature of the H2O below freezing. Also you've got to bring the temperature down, I don't you'll get anything decent at room temperature.

If you really want this to work with reasonable yields my guess is you would have to use both a strong acid and base. Not only that, but you still need a non-polar solvent of some sort to get rid of all the other plant material.
 
Last edited:
The problem I see with nampha is that since dmt isn't all that soluble in it relative to other non-polar solvents a large amount must be used to get all the dmt out. Then it must be evaporated down to effectively precipitate the dmt. Heating the nampha and aqueous layer to make dmt more soluble seems to pull more of the yellow gunk.

If a solvent with higher dmt solubility such as (xylene, mek, diethyl either?) was used a smaller amount would be effective for the initial extraction. The problem is those solvents can't be freeze precipitated. Extract with acidic water from solvent x and then extract the water with a small amount of nampha.

Lets say solvent x has extreme solubility for dmt, so much so that only one pull is needed to get the majority of the dmt. Even if it pulls more impurities than nampha, those will be purified in both the subsequent water and nampha extractions. I'm guessing nampha would be much more effective at pulling dmt from a small amount of water containing little else, than a giant carboy full of water and bark.

Just brainstorming, I know I'm adding an additional solvent when the goal is to get rid of them:)
 
nuke said:
As I said in the ADD thread, you need to use a strong base (KOH or NaOH to pH 11-12) to make the product precipitate out in chilled water. pH 9 is too low for an amine that's already fairly basic. If you add a little brine you should even be able to get it to crystallize faster because you can get the temperature of the H2O below freezing. Also you've got to bring the temperature down, I don't you'll get anything decent at room temperature.

If you really want this to work with reasonable yields my guess is you would have to use both a strong acid and base. Not only that, but you still need a non-polar solvent of some sort to get rid of all the other plant material.
Click to expand...

you couldnt just decant before basifying?
 
ok, so from this latest abortion (i just added naptha, theres a rainbow gathering today and this weekend ... actually its the whole month but... i just wanted to get my deemz out)

i let it evaporate after a warm water bath... just scraped up the crystals. not like regular dmt crystals. it looks almost like real big grains of tablesalt and has a yellowish tinge to it, their all the same size and produce a high thats real strange

this dmt is sedating (you dont want to move at any dose) and relaxing. this lasts a lot longer than regular dmt trip too. the colors are brighter than what i get with regular dmt, but its alot slower than regular dmt too. its also a little less potent (70mg might get you where 45 mgs would normally)

my guess is that something chemically altered the dmt allong the way. it might have caused the dmt to oxidize into dmt oxide (which fits the effects).

this didnt happen from my trial go with this, it only happened with the dmt that went back into solution after i let it sit too long.

this kind of dmt would be great for an oral dose if regular dmt is too crazy. my guess is that it would last a little longer and would be much smoother than a regular oral dose.
 
This whole n-oxide tryptamine thing is weird. DMT goes on to n-oxide DMT which could only be generated in the presence of peroxides which would be unlikely to happen in either the acid or base solutions (especially a strong base -- strong bases destroy peroxides!). Where is the oxidation coming from exactly?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top