I worship at the altar of Annick Menardo’s Bulgari Black, one of the uncanniest mainstream masterpieces of the past decade, but somehow, I never gave more than a cursory sniff to her Le Labo offering – In The Guide, Luca Turin compares Patchouli 24 to the smell of a Russian scientific library filled with specimen jars brimming with toxic juices. I can’t say I’ve had the same experience, but I agree the scent exudes that deep, smoky, intoxicating vanilla smell you get from old books – not surprisingly since vanillin can be extracted from wood pulp. The delicious tarriness of guaiacol – a product present in wood smoke and obtained from beechwood tar, and the currently preferred source for the extraction of vanillin – adds a cosy books-by-the-fireplace glow to the blend. As for patchouli, its phenolic fumes feel a little buried in the smoke, but then, everybody’s said it already: the names of the Le Labo scents don’t mean much.