The Cannabis Discussion Thread Version 2

[justsayknow]

Seeds can have a lot of variation between plants esp with hybrids and you usually get some males.

I was thinking about things to reduce height and one other thing you could do is dig the pots in. It will give you another foot or so leeway also it will keep the roots a bit cooler when the summer fully kicks in.

 

[poledriver]

^ Would there be any trouble about them getting too wet if it rained a bit? Could there be a drainage issue? Or would you move them out of the hole if it was raining alot?

 

[drug_mentor]

I thought of digging them into the ground but then I also thought of the drainage issue that PD has highlighted in his post and I also wondered if roots would poke through the rather large drainage holes and get into the soil, thereby limiting how effective the pot is at restricting the size of the plant and also making it so I can't move the pots without fucking with the roots.

Can anyone recommend any (preferably organic) liquid fertilisers/plant food? I got some natural charlie carp, but the NPK rating is like 10-2-6, which isn't really ideal for cannabis. The strange thing is, that is actually one of the ones with the most P in it, I just could not find any that have an NPK ratio that is typically recommended for cannabis which is frustrating.

I topped my plants yesterday, didn't end up taking an extra node. Doesn't seem to have stressed them too much and the new branches are visible already.

 

[justsayknow]

I've never had problems with drainage but I think my soil and weather conditions might be a bit different from yours. Pretty sure I've seen pics of it being done elsewhere though. The beauty of pots is that you can move them whenever you need to. In my experience the roots will poke out the sides a bit but you can break them off if they get out of control or need to move the plant.

Biocanna vega and flores are what I use. Not sure what the NPK ratio is but they are certified organic and designed for cannabis if that is what you are looking for. No doubt you can get something designed for veggies heaps cheaper. Seasol and powerfeed comes to mind as an alternative. Pretty sure manure or solid fertilisers are even cheaper and need application even less frequently.

Check out a thread titled Organic Fanatics Australia on the other big international cannabis forum it has all kinds of ideas.

 

[pisspotnrock]

Don't get me wrong, I usually get good weed despite my complaints, in fact I would say that I normally get a good standard, for a commercial product. I don't think any commercially grown weed in this country is cured, I don't think most of it is flushed (certainly not properly/well) and the use of chemical ferts is pretty much a given. For the most part I get shit that is dried well and does not have that PGR shit pumped through it, but there are fairly irregular interruptions to this and I do occasionally have little choice but to pay for shit that is a bit damp, or the buds are clearly rock hard and pumped full of garbage. The thing is, as someone who relies on cannabis to sleep it isn't really an option for me to pass up when it is shit, but when it is I literally end up paying twice as much because it just doesn't stretch out when you account for how small it chops with some moisture or after PGRs have been used, or the times when it is just sub par quality. Recently one of my main people has gotten out of the game, and I always find around the approach to Christmas weed supply seems to dry up a bit, so lately it has not been as good as I would of liked. Most of the time what I am smoking is better than what I see a lot of other people smoking and selling, but it could just be a lot better in my view. Especially in the last year or two, my lungs have become a bit fragile, I would honestly rather some slightly less potent weed that tasted nice and wasn't harsh compared to super potent chemical taste harsh hydro, that is half of my problem or more right there.

I feel like 4 or 5 years ago shit was a lot better, I just don't remember most bags I picked up tasting so shit and I feel like ounces definitely seemed fatter and maybe a touch frostier then, even though I was going through them quicker because I smoked all day every day. Maybe it is just who I know, but some of the people have remained the same while it seems like the product has slid in quality. I don't pay a lot for an ounce compared to what I hear some other people do, but I would be happy as Larry to pay for quality, problem is, you don't have the option here like they do in North America and Europe.

I highly doubt anything I grew out will be the best shit I ever smoked, although I would certainly love that to be the case! I don't have any genetics from a breeder or anything, just some seeds from a couple mates grows last year, although it definitely was nice weed. I have been smoking cannabis for 11 years and in that time I have seen some pretty damn amazing buds in Australia, I also spent a bit over a week in Amsterdam 13 or 14 months ago and was only buying from the top of the menu in coffee shops recommended to me by people who lived or spent a great deal of time in the Dam.

Can I ask why you would never grow from seed again compared to clone? I have limited access to clones, but it is a hassle to get them and they all come from people running indoor set ups, I am sure they would work fine outside but I do suspect they are best done indoors. Either way I was happy to go from seed this year and get the whole life cycle experience, so to speak.

aww no doubt dude, its just the fact its never flushed/cured/full of shit ya dont want... it does suck when you're relying on it for your insomnia n your sources are limited...

yeah fuck knows why, but its always the end of spring/start of summer that it drys up till the end of summer.. thought that might have just been the case in WA but obviously not

I know ya have been to holland dude, but goin of what my older (very experienced) grower mates reckon (they to have been to holland, many-a-time), properly grown organic out-door mull with good genetics is next to impossible to beat.. hence why I said, if you're seeds are the beez-kneez, you're in for a treat the way you're goin about it

reason I would never fuck with seeds again unless it came down to it? well truth me told, lets just say some close mates of mine always have cuttings of high quality (femm. seeds they brand back from the cann. cup such as great-white shark, white widow n G-13.. which are now in their 4th-5th generation) available to me.. please dont see this as me trying to dick size.. fact is, giving where I currently live, I'm lucky to grow one outdoor plant a year when season comes around.. if I had my own place, I would have the phattest set-up (for personal use of course), but I dont.... so yeah, giving the fact theres a good chance seeds might be male and may be un-reliable genetics ontop of the fact my mates got some mad genetics cranking, theres no point be fuckn round with seeds

 

[junkie skumbag]

Ever thought of ordering seeds?? I've done it before multiable times with no problems at all always top notch grade pot....the last ones I grew were green-o-matic they grew from n seed to harvest pretty much 1 big bud the size of both my fists and soooo strong smoke...I'd have 1 cone and I'd be fucked up full on....talking about cloning I've been thinking of tipping parts of my plants so it encourage new growth and make clones out of them (this strain is fucking great and I'm stoked my old man found my last seed (I made a hybrid I guess there was a really tall plant that ended up turnin male so moved it to the orlther side of the yard...I then procced to harvest the pollen off the male and plance it in a glads coffe jar anything air tight then i waited til it was harvest time for the female cut 1 plant and leave the buds growing off the half cut plant then when the time is riggt id get the pollen and apply it to tje remaing buds and withon a weeku should seed little seeda starting to grow within anonthr week it shouls be good to go.
also adding c20 to the pots that have my plant in it (ill post a pic tomorrow or the next day[im speeding my fucking balls off atm]is it worth my time and effort to make the cO2 place it under the (how ever u spell it)akeep checking it each 2 hours or so to make sure all the yeast hasn't dissolved or should I wait further on in there growth cycle???ive never grown from clones but I plan to try it once we move and I can get my indoor set up nioce n sexy...got a new light one for veg and one for flower and maybe gonna get a fluro grow tube to grow baby's or clones with....what do you's rekon??? . Also I agree %100 with pisspot leaving the plant alone and only giving it the attention that it truly needa




I have a cert 3 in horticulture so I have a lil bit of info in my noggin....

 

[poledriver]

Medical marijuana debate: NSW rules out approving cannabis for terminally-ill patients

The New South Wales Government has ruled out allowing terminally-ill people to legally use cannabis to help deal with pain.

In May, a cross-party parliamentary committee unanimously recommended allowing terminally-ill patients and people with AIDS to legally use up to 15 grams of marijuana for medicinal purposes.

But the Government has rejected the recommendation, saying there is limited evidence about the efficiency of cannabis for medical purposes and it does not support the use of unregulated cannabis products.

The committee running the inquiry included three Coalition members.

Greens MP John Kaye, who was also on the committee, says the Government's decision is narrow-minded.

"I'm deeply disappointed that the O'Farrell Government has buckled to cannabis use hysteria when they had a perfect opportunity to bring some relief to the pain and suffering of terminally-ill patients," he said.

"This is not about spreading cannabis use, it was about those people who were in terrible pain, who are at the end stage of their lives.

"The O'Farrell Government has turned their back on some patients in New South Wales who are suffering terribly."

Former state Labor MP Paul O'Grady, who is HIV positive and has had cancer treatment, says a trial should have at least been considered.

The cross-party parliamentary committee unanimously recommending allowing medical marijuana for some patients

"Good public policy should be based on evidence, you need in my view, to have trials of these sorts of things so that you can develop the evidence," he said.

"It's not to say that everything works for everyone - whether it was acupuncture for me with neuropathy or whether it's marijuana for pain relief and appetite activation.

"It's about using what tools you have in the box to the best possible advantage."

The Government says it does support the use of prescription pharmaceutical cannabis products approved by the Therapeutic Goods Administration.

It has also committed to writing to the Commonwealth to see if it will allow more patients to gain access to approved cannabis pharmacotherapies, if their existing pain management is not effective.

No synthetic or natural forms of cannabis have been legalised for medical or recreational use in Australia but a synthetic aerosol form of the drug known as nabiximol is being currently being trialled in four Australian hospitals.

In its written response to the committee's report, the Government has also highlighted its Pain Management Plan 2012-2016 and some the initiatives to increase services.

Mr Kaye argues that raising that point avoids the difficult question of using cannabis.

"Pain management clinics are great, they're a big step forward but they don't remove the need to help people who have end stage HIV or terminal cancer and it doesn't avoid the question of how they could have been helped by giving them access to raw cannabis" he said.

"It's a great shame and people will suffer because of it."

http://www.abc.net.au/news/2013-11-16/nsw-rules-out-medical-marijuana-for-terminal-patients/5096476

 

[poledriver]

Yeah it is a shame, people are in pain and and dying and some of them know first hand cannabis works better for them than the pharma shit they are on and they aren't allowed to use it. Fucking everyone should be allowed to use it. 10 or 20 years from now we'll probably start getting those idiots in power do a total backflip and follow America on some of the things they have changed in some places regarding weed. Can only hope anyway. How expensive is it to keep doing this annual cannabis eradication programme each yr? And how much cannabis is there still around everywhere all the time? What a waste of money and time and resources. Fuckwits.

 

[laugh]

happy 7000 mate

and remember its only wrong if you get caught. the mightiest sin is stupidity.

bong on!

 

[poledriver]

Thanks, wow you've nearly posted twice as much as me and I joined like 6 yrs earlier 8(

 

[laugh]

i don't have a life and i lounge way too much. you should lounge more, its always good having new faces in there.

 

[lovepsychadelics]

^ I have citric acid in solution in the form of Ph down, today alone I flushed 2.5-3 litres of water ph'd to 6 through my two 125mm pots, which I can't imagine being more than 500-750mL in capacity. What is wrong with this as a flushing technique? Because according to my ph readings it did sweet fuck all. I did the same thing with water I got down to ph 6 or 6.5 the other day using lemon juice, there was also a solid two days of rain where I live, rain water I read generally is about 5.6 ph. My ph HAS come down a little, but I am talking from less than 8 to still sitting in a range between 7.2 and 7.5, it seems to me flushing with ph'd water is very ineffective for altering the ph of soil (which makes little sense, since the alkalinity of my bloody tap water is what caused this problem!), either that or I need to be using a more dramatically acidic solution, but until someone with experience advises me that is the case I am not going to risk killing my plants with low ph water.

The plants are all planted, the soil is branded potting mix, the ph is fine out of the bag but a month or so of watering with tap water has caused my soil to be come alkaline, I don't see how mixing shit in with the soil is an option for me at this stage? Not without stressing the shit out of my plants any way, which I am looking to avoid.

"Excessive flushing will not help if your not adding something to change the chemical balance present in the soil. Also microbial teas are of benifit."This line I don't fully understand, what should I be adding after I flush? Specifically what should I be adding to bring my ph down?

I really don't want to use chemical fertilisers, I wanted this to be an organic grow, surely there is a way to acidify soil without going this route, however if it is a choice of fixing this issue with chemicals or letting my plants perform poorly because of inability to access certain nutrients I am willing to throw in a tiny dose of chems.

You need the solution your watering into the soil to be acidic slightly (adding acid to neutralize the base) so the acid neutralizes the alkaline content in the soil. PH neutral H20 will not resolve the issue with the chemicals present in the soil. Some times excessive fertilizing can cause ph imbalance, it can also be due to a lack of good micro organisms in the substrate which reduces the breakdown of nutrients such as fertilizers. Other examples may include the type of soil used or a number of other issues and I'm sure gardening Australia do pretty good stuff on soil conditioning lol, much better than I can explain. Those kind of TV shows do provide some useful information. Don't flush ph neutral to try and neutralize the ph balance when the soil is alkaline. This may not resolve the problem just remove nutrients and micro organisms, plus over saturate the root system with H20. Basically try watering with citric acid at ph 5 instead of 6. This should not cause the roots to burn but don't much lower.

You have been using water with a high alkaline content without neutralizing the ph first? Fertilizers of some kind are needed and if you want to go full organic you should be using symbiotic relationships that exist in nature like the "good fungi and bacteria" type microbial teas. These really help maintain healthy soils/substrates. If you have been over watering and leaching nutrients from the soil with alkaline water I'm not surprised you have ph problems. Don't stress these are lessons learnt for the next time and then next time there are new issues lol. I'd advise planting them out in well prepared beds/holes. Microbial tea added, nutrients and drainage (wood chips, perlyte, coco peat, whatever), soil ph checked and ph adjusted for each watering. Organic slow release fertilizer or bio mulch. Each time you grow and experience new challenges you find new solutions and become a better grower.

BTW potting mix is crap. Always get these kind of problems using potting mix from bunnings etc. I used to use these little bricks, cant remember what they were called. Placed brick into water and it'd swell and become a little mesh cover pot. Add seed/cutting and grow. Once it was of a reasonable size into a larger pot to grow. Preparing your soil properly and colonizing it with microbes that benefit the plant makes your life easier in the long run. That and ensuring you provide nutrients and a microbial ecosystem to make them available to the plant. Plus the Ph and water thing, it's all a learning curve even after doing it for years.

 

[justsayknow]

BTW potting mix is crap. Always get these kind of problems using potting mix from bunnings etc.

They do often sell shite.

I was reading the other day that the healthier your soil is the better the Cation Exchange Capacity. I don't understand the chemistry but apparently this means you will have less nutrients locked out and more leeway when it comes to ph ie it will return to neutral easier than unhealthy soil.

http://www.soilquality.org.au/factsheets/cation-exchange-capacity

 

[lovepsychadelics]

They do often sell shite.

I was reading the other day that the healthier your soil is the better the Cation Exchange Capacity. I don't understand the chemistry but apparently this means you will have less nutrients locked out and more leeway when it comes to ph ie it will return to neutral easier than unhealthy soil.

http://www.soilquality.org.au/factsheets/cation-exchange-capacity

Justsayknow your 100% correct. Another factor often overlooked are the Mycorrhizal fungi micro-flora, these help strengthen and increase root density by creating a symbiotic relationship with the plant roots. They also break down nutrients for the plant to absorb and prevent harmful micro organisms colonizing your plant's roots. Check out the article in this link http://www.sciencedaily.com /releases/2004/05/040510010924.htm gives a basic overview of this relationship and it's importance.

Jiffy pots I'm sure! Thanks laugh. Another factor is as the plant grows and absorbs nutrients it can create a nutrient deficiency resulting in ph imbalance. In pots this is a major issue but once planted in soil not so much. If the soil has been prepared properly this will be 0 issue. This all can be 100% organic just research the products used, for example you could use your piss as a source of urea. There are a number of products that are 100% organic and are for use with beneficial microbial colonies as they break down and release the nutrients (think liquid worm poo). Fish emulsion works wonders especially for stressed plants.

Excessive H20 is an issue as it prevents oxygen exchange at the root system and allows microbes that can exist without oxygen to thrive and these are some bad things to have in your soil and can cause root rot etc. It also washes away any beneficial microbial colonies and nutrients. Flushing with ph neutral water is best done in the last 1-2 weeks prior to harvest to ensure any residual fertilizer etc has been removed from the soil/substrate and the plant has been flushed of any excessive build up of trace elements (magnesium, phosphate etc). You would be surprised how foul smoke that has not been properly flushed prior to harvest can taste.

A well grown crop of even a just few smallish plants should yield 1-2 kg of dried manicured buds.

 

[drug_mentor]

Do people here foliar feed and if so do they usually adjust the ph of that water before spraying? It seems that there are people who swear you do and some who swear you don't, which is all rather confusing.

I wanted to foliar feed my plants tomorrow morning before leaving for work, was going to make up a litre solution with 4mL of Seasol in there tonight, let the chlorine bubble overnight and give them a light spray, I am just not sure whether or not I should adjust the ph or not. I have read from many sources foliar feeding a seaweed extract in veg is beneficial, but the main reason is that a couple of my plants are still showing mild signs of iron and zinc deficiency and I thought this might be a good way to get rid of that. I know seasol isn't a plant food by the way in terms of having minimal NPK value, but it does have a number of less important nutrients my plants have a slight deficiency in. The reason I want to know about ph is that I am fairly certain Seasol is alkaline, and I know that iron and zinc which I want my plants to feed on are inaccessible in soil above a ph of around 7, I am not sure if the same thing applies to foliar feeding, for some reason I feel like ph probably is less important for foliar feeding but there are so many differing opinions out there it is hard to come to a conclusion.

Also, anyone familiar with Neutrog Go Go Juice? They post some pretty damn impressive results on their website of consumable crops that half a field had this stuff applied and the other didn't, supposed to be 100% organic. Basically introduces a heap of beneficial bacteria to the soil so they can break it down and give the plant better access to nutrients. I am thinking I will pick some up through the week and give it a crack.

 

[lovepsychadelics]

Foliar feeding is fine. It helps add trace elements to the plant as well as hormones especially kelp based products. As an additional feeding regime it is of great benefit. Ensure you do it early in the day when the light levels are low to reduce the risk of burning due to the moisture on the leaves reducing the plants solar resistance (it's usually cloudy when it rains). Later in the day means the plant is preparing to go dormant for the evening cycle and the nutrients will not be as readily absorbed. Absolute no implications re foliar feeding and ph as it's absorbed by the leaves in the same manner they absorb rain water directly through the leaves pours. The only issue with ph is excessive high or low ph can burn the leaves, if your worried balance the ph to a neutral level and then apply the foliar spray.

The go go juice sounds like it's worth a shot for sure. No personal experience but it sounds like a product that fit's the bill nicely re organic growing. Opinions differ as people often develop a "method" of cultivation and anything that is not there own personal "method" is seen as being wrong, incorrect etc. The best teacher is experience either first hand or second hand such as from a seasoned grower. Tertiary resources such as TV show's, internet sites etc are also a useful tool ! I have seen dope plants repeatedly harvested for years on end simply by being pruned at the end of each flowering season and allowed to regrow and flower again the next years flowering season.

For the query about dry spells around summer. Pot buds seasonally unless indoors due to the available amount of ambient light, winter - shorter daylight hours and hence heads develop, summer + longer hours hence vegetative growth. I think the vast majority of Australia's dope is still grown outdoors in many places hence the dry spells.

D_M I had been under the impression you were using hard water ie water with a high alkaline ph. such as bore water or similar. I think your main issue may actually be as simple as over watering. Your plants look in reasonable health and you shouldn't stress out too much. Transgender plants I just rip them out, not worth the risk, even if you cut them back and remove all the male flowers it'll drop balls again the moment your back is turned. Once in the ground with a well prepared planting zone the plants will be in a more stable environment and should shock/stress less. Ensure good drainage and only water once a day or when necessary (ie plants are drooping from heat stress, they pick up within 30 minutes of being watered).

Try even keeping a little journal for idea's and methods that work/don't work just don't call it my dope growing diary or something. Don't actually call them my mullies or refer to the dope as anything other than plants or whatever. An example: "watered at 0630 hrs, soil dry at 1330 hrs and heat stress evident. Temperature 30 degrees and sunny. Note: water twice on hot days" this is just a hypothetical example but put down things you notice work or ideas you want to test out and problems you encounter with solutions you discover etc. Next year you will have your own personal guide for the next time you plant. I suggest if you get pest problems try neem oil as a foliant spray for pest control. It's organic and works wonders.

 

[drug_mentor]

Hey guys, quick question regarding re potting cannabis.

I have two plants I need to re pot out of 125mm containers, ultimately I plan to finish them in 510mm containers. Basically I want to know if I would be better off repotting to a smaller size before finally transplanting into my final container, or if I should just place them straight into the pot I plan to finish them in. I have some 290mm containers on hand.

I thought it might be advantageous to gradually up the size of the container they are in, that way the root mass will grow more densely and will be less likely to get too big for the final container I am placing them in. However, I have thought that some drawbacks may be that it would cause extra stress to the plant, also, I am not super confident repotting and had never done it in my life before the last couple weeks, I sorta wonder if repotting out of a 290mm might be a bit of a challenge. It is a decent size container and it would be devastating to fuck up a plant at that stage in its life.

Just curious what people with experience would do. Thanks in advance!

 

[pisspotnrock]

my cutting died.. spewin (stems werent strong enough to support 25knt+ winds)

now I gotta fuckn wait till the next lot which'll be in a month or so, which in laments terms, means theyll be lucky to get a month of veg. AKA. they will be bonsia's hahah

gotta love ye ol fremantle doctor, NOT (doesnt help living right next to the beach)

 

[justsayknow]

Hey guys, quick question regarding re potting cannabis.

I have two plants I need to re pot out of 125mm containers, ultimately I plan to finish them in 510mm containers. Basically I want to know if I would be better off repotting to a smaller size before finally transplanting into my final container, or if I should just place them straight into the pot I plan to finish them in. I have some 290mm containers on hand.

I thought it might be advantageous to gradually up the size of the container they are in, that way the root mass will grow more densely and will be less likely to get too big for the final container I am placing them in. However, I have thought that some drawbacks may be that it would cause extra stress to the plant, also, I am not super confident repotting and had never done it in my life before the last couple weeks, I sorta wonder if repotting out of a 290mm might be a bit of a challenge. It is a decent size container and it would be devastating to fuck up a plant at that stage in its life.

Just curious what people with experience would do. Thanks in advance!

I usually repot twice without too many ill effects. Usually first into 250mm and then into the final spot whether that is the earth or a 400/500 mm pot. With vegetables etc I usually just put them straight into the final destination and there isn't usually any problems with that either. I have read people say that it is better to gradually increase the pot size due to the soil staying damp in the unused portion of the larger pots. Will have one of each this time so I could say for sure by next year. Maybe you could try one of each too? My bet is that it makes little difference.

By the time the plant has filled up the 250mm its usually pretty sturdy and will have a solid root mass. Growth might slow for a day or so after the transplant but should pick up again quickly. The actual job of repotting a larger plant can be a bit tricky especially if it has become quite tall and the roots have come out of the drainage holes but 290mm doesn't sound too big. I can remember trying to get one out of a 400mm pot into a hole in the ground: that was a struggle because I left it too long.

 

[justsayknow]

Spewin indeed.
Do you reckon outdoor seed plants are a bit hardier when it comes to that kind of thing?
I haven't ever done cuttings properly as I never do indoor but the ones I've messed around with off outdoor plants seem like fragile little things. There isn't really much point me using them as I'm not altering the light cycles at all.