Then what was the reason for posts numbers 585 and 586? A shamanic dance won't make your scale perform any better. You get what you pay for. The bottom line is that one can find a half-decent new scale for $150-300, and such a scale will often come with a calibration weight (F1 or F2) and other goodies. As I pointed out earlier, the scale that you bought should only be used as a temporary stopgap. "It's better than nothing" but don't whine if it does not perform to your expectations. Get real.
Well as I said once I got it working, I had followed advice in this thread to tare the scale with the tray off, then apply the tray (so the scale read something like 2.504g) and do a little math to allow a more accurate reading (supposedly). I also calibrated it without the tray on, placing the weight where the tray sits. After a little tinkering, I noticed that the tray must be left on, the scale needs to have
some weight on it when tared, including when it is calibrated. Doing so has produced numbers within the +/-1mg range. I read the majority of the thread, I've done my homework, the particular scale in question was recommended by several members including moderators as 'the best cheapy scale, and just as good as those in the $100+ range' - so when I was getting greater than a .01g walk, it struck me terribly wrong and in stark contrast to every piece of advice I read in this thread.
Its not perfect, I concede. As of this moment, its meeting my expectations for what it is, it did not in those posts you referenced due to my own user error based on advice I had read. I will probably purchase a true 10g calibration weight in the future because I'm certain the calibration weight itself has to be off a few mg one way or the other. It would probably be even better to get something like a 10mg just to see where the scale is at and use that error average as a reference. Its pretty well accepted (from what I have read) that you cannot weigh out <20mg very accurately on any .001g scale, even your $150-300 ones. There is supposedly very little difference until you get into true balance territory.
I realize 2mg can be a major difference between a strong trip and really strong trip, but lets be real, ANY .001g scale can be off by 2mg throughout its whole range, even at higher weights. So the solution: weight out a larger quantity 50mg+, dilute it in a solution and volumetrically dose to get your 16mg doses. The 2mg error is spread out over the larger quantity and the error is diminished. I know I can't weigh out 10mg on this scale and have it be accurate. I know I can't rely on that with even a $300 scale.
This is for my own personal use, I'm not pushing shit, and if I weigh out 100mg and split it volumetrically and decide for myself "whoa 16mg was way too much" but in reality its actually 18mg, so what, Ill lower the dose the next time and it will be consistent through the batch and for my own physiology. This is why we start low when we dose, to gauge our personal reaction. Some people go off their fucking rocker taking 10mg of 2c-e and others report mild trips at 20mg.. In instances like that, does the 2mg error really make all that much of a difference? Its all relative.. There are a number of factors that come into play, the scale being one of them, individual physiology, tolerance, and so on and so forth.
I've done my homework, and I'm not ignorant to think that any scale, no matter its expense is 100% foolproof, nor am I ignorant to assume that the dose for me is going to be anything like anyone else's.