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The Big & Dandy N,N-DMT Extraction Thread - Elves are watching

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STB means straight to base. It's typically used with mimosa hostilis root bark because there is so little fatty plant matter to worry about in the first place, which is what the acid stage of an acid-base tek is for. If you want to do STB, what you need is water, a strong base like lye, and a nonpolar solvent like naptha for relatively safe and easy extraction. The only use for vinegar or other acids in a STB tek is to have on hand in case you spill lye or lye water on exposed skin to neutralize it. You don't need to use it in the extraction itself at all. MHRB, basified water and naptha are the only components needed for the extraction proper, along with appropriate containers, safety equipment for working with lye and naptha, etc.
 
Then you're using a shit tek - on the previous page both Roger&me & Solsitus have really easy concise ways to do an STB extraction. Trust us, not some random tek.

Also go to the DMT Nexus (google it)

Come back and tell us how it went. :)
 
I looked at the post on the previous page actually. I was gonna use that in tandem or instead of anyways. The tek I'm talkin about is apprentl not shitty. Great yeilds and easy (except where I'm stuck).

What about the Nexus am I supposed to be lookin at? I've already been all over that site.
 
That site is just really great for Teks... and talking to people who are really into DMT...and extracting it.

I would suggest using a different tek - they're not hard to find - I've got 3/4 different ones somewhere on my hard drive for when I finally do an extraction.


How's about you post this tek up - it sounds crap to me...are you sure it's not just a A/B extraction tek?
 
Is it ok to do that step wihout ph papers and just let It sit longer
to be sure?

I imagine i'd just get a little bit less
if it was an issue. I've been keeping it heated. According to the instructions I'm on my third hour of soaking. Bout to move on if I can. It smells haha.
 
morbiddoctor said:
Is it ok to do that step wihout ph papers and just let It sit longer
to be sure?
Click to expand...

Well, you can work out the pH of your solution without using pH papers. Its not that hard, but it takes some number-crunching, and might be confusing if you haven't done it before. But its definitely worth crunching through if you can manage it, because knowing the pH of your solution is very important. If its too low (ie, the solution isn't alkaline enough), then you won't be able to convert the DMT in the bark to freebase. Its really important that the pH is as high as possible, because a highly alkaline solution wants to take the DMT's vulnerable protons for itself to make water and release heat, leaving the DMT in its de-protonated or "freebase" form.

Essentially, first you work out the concentration of OH- in your solution. NaOH has a molar mass of roughly 40g/mol, so you can work out the molarity of your solution using that value. Molarity is number of moles of solute per liter of solution. You just have to know how many grams of NaOH you added to how many liters of solution, and using molar mass you can calculate the solution's molarity.

[X]="concentration of X", expressed here in mols/Lsoln

Since there's 1 OH- for every NaOH, its a 1:1 ratio, so [OH-] = [NaOH]

Let's assume for hypothetical purposes that your NaOH solution [OH-] turns out to be 2.9 x 10^-4 M. I just pulled this number out of my ass arbitrarily for example purposes, mind.

pOH = -log[OH-] = -log(2.9x10^-4) = 3.54

Since this is pOH, and we want pH, we need to consider that pH+pOH=14.00

pH + pOH = 14.00
pH = 14.00 - pOH
pH = 14.00 - 3.54 = 10.46

The final answer shows that the solution is basic (pH > 7), which is consistent with an NaOH solution. Always ask yourself, "does this answer sound reasonable?" In this case, it does.

Alternatively, you can use the ion-product constant of water, Kw=[H+][OH-]=1.0x10^14, to calculate [H+], and then you can calculate the pH from the [H+].

Some useful relationships regarding pH:

Kw=[H+][OH-]=1.0x10^-14

pH=-log[H+]

pOH=-log[OH-]

pH+pOH=14

[H+]=10^-pH
 
Wow. That's long and confusing. I'm to high to look into that right now. I went ahead and Started the basificaton step. I'm gonna let it sit. What does the naphtha wash in the next step mean? Do I really just add it to the mix or what? I don't understand how that will turn it into crystals. Am I missing something? Pm?
 
^Well add roughly 40 grams of lye per liter of water, and that should put the pH somewhere around 14. Add the lye slowly though, because adding it to water releases heat.

Then add your ground bark and mix it as well as possible in the lye solution. Then after its been sitting for a while, you just slowly pour in the naphtha, and gently roll the container in your hands to mix it up, being careful of course. Then the naptha will separate out onto the top because it can't mix with water, so just suction that off and put it aside in a jar or something. Then do some more pulls, and combine them all together, and you can evaporate that down until its more concentrated. Then you just cap that jar, and put it in the freezer for a week or so-- when you lower the temperature, the DMT can't stay dissolved in the naptha so it forms crystals on the side of the jar that stick together. Then you just have to suction off the naptha and dry the crystals that get left behind.
 
OK, and just so I'M clear - after scraping off the crystals from the jar, if you want to recrystallize (say, for big crystals) then you just get a dish/bowl shaped vessel, pour all the crystal on it then add enough naptha to dissolve it all...then allow that to dry at room temperature. Right?

I'm very interested (for my second or 3rd pull) in creating as big crystals as I can get. They're so pretty.
 
morbiddoctor said:
Wow. That's long and confusing. I'm to high to look into that right now. I went ahead and Started the basificaton step. I'm gonna let it sit. What does the naphtha wash in the next step mean? Do I really just add it to the mix or what? I don't understand how that will turn it into crystals. Am I missing something? Pm?
Click to expand...

I'm assuming you went ahead and did q21q21 A/B technique?

So that means you have potentially extracted all of the DMT into your vinegar solution. The DMT right now is in it's water-soluble salt form, once you make the solution basic the DMT will convert to its freebase form. Naphtha is a non-polar solvent and will dissolve DMT. So the naphtha washes are going to be pulling the freebase DMT out of the basified water.
A naphtha wash is simply a way of saying that you put the naphtha into the container of basified water and mix it around a bit, essentially "washing" the basified water with non-polar solvent. The non-polar solvent will separate into a separate phase from the basified water and then you can remove it.

OK, and just so I'M clear - after scraping off the crystals from the jar, if you want to recrystallize (say, for big crystals) then you just get a dish/bowl shaped vessel, pour all the crystal on it then add enough naptha to dissolve it all...then allow that to dry at room temperature. Right?
Click to expand...

For a recrystallization you want to dissolve as much DMT into as small an amount a solvent as possible. So what you wanna do is have the DMT in a small glass container like a shot glass or something. Heat some solvent up using a hot-water bath (no open flame of course) and slowly add HOT solvent to the DMT until it dissolves. Once you have a supersaturated solvent, if you want the biggest crystals possible, you need to Slowly Slowly cool it down.

I remember someone saing they slowly lower the temp on their hotplate over time until it's off and then keep cooling slowly from there. Eventually as you make your way slowly to freezer temp you should have nice pure crystals.
 
How long does it typically take before one can start expecting to scrape the goodies off the precipitation tray? I put a sealed ziploc bag around it and white salty looking stuff is forming on the underside on the bag. Not much in the way of crystals on the glass. Been in the freezer 9 hours. Not much going on.
 
freeze precipitation only works if you use a minimum of solvent. if you use too much naptha, then nothing will crash out because you have too much solvent.

if nothing shows up after 48 hours in the freezer, take it back out, evaporate half the volume, and return to the freezer. that should do the trick.
 
What should I do if crystallization ocurrs on the plastic bags underside but not really on the dish? Evaporate some more?
 
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