From model to fashion pariah: Moss' career at risk
September 22, 2005
LONDON (AP) - Barely a teenager and posing topless in a Calvin Klein underwear ad in 1990, British supermodel Kate Moss sashayed her way onto the covers of glossy magazines amid controversy over her "heroin chic" image. But recent pictures of her allegedly snorting cocaine have turned the fashion icon into a fashion pariah with three labels dropping her.
The supermodel's fall from grace has forced a re-think on the types of role models the fashion world endorses.
It also raises questions about possible hypocrisy in an industry notorious for its drug-fuelled party life: Haute couture lovingly cultivated Moss' bad girl image, and she now finds her career threatened with the first evidence that the image may match reality.
"It's hypocritical," said pop culture lecturer Cary Cooper with Lancaster University. "The industry saw the warning signs. Others saw the warning signs. Something should have been done sooner."
Pictures published in British tabloid the Daily Mirror last week appeared to show the 31-year-old snorting cocaine in a London studio. This week, the fallout came in rapid succession: She was dropped by Swedish clothing giant H&M and Britain's Burberry, and French fashion house Chanel said it would not renew her contract. British cosmetics company Rimmel London announced Thursday it was reviewing its contract with Moss.
"Rimmel London is shocked and dismayed by the recent press allegations surrounding Kate Moss' behaviour. We are currently reviewing her contract," said company spokeswoman Caroline Pycroft, days after Rimmel said it planned to continue her $2.3 million US reported contract.
Moss issued a statement Thursday, saying she took "full responsibility for my actions" and apologizing to "all the people I have let down."
Much of the public appeared unsurprised by the cocaine allegations - but some expressed concern over the case because Moss has a nearly three-year-old daughter.
"She's been doing it for years and we all know it," said Marilena Rossina, 38, one of dozens of Londoners reading the latest headlines about Moss. "It's not like cocaine is something new in the modelling industry. But I'm worried about her child, and she's in the public eye - a role model for a lot of teen girls."
Some people in the fashion world defended Moss, suggesting she was the victim of a media lynching.
"I think it's really unfair," said Icelandic fashion designer Helga Vjornsson, who lives off the legendary Parisian shopping street Rue du Faubourg St Honore.
"She may be a product but she's a human being too," said Vjornsson. "The media are responsible for her loss of success or work."
Catherine Deneuve - a former face of Chanel No. 5 - said Moss' private life should be kept private. "She's a great model. If she's ruining her personal life, that belongs to her," said the 61-year-old cinema diva.
Originally from the unglamorous south London suburb of Croydon, Moss was discovered by Sarah Doukas, founder of Storm model agency, who spotted her at New York's John F. Kennedy Airport in 1988.
Two years later, topless pictures of the 14 year old were splashed across billboards. Critics condemned Moss' waifish appearance, blank stare and emaciated figure - but that didn't prevent "heroin chic" from becoming the most coveted look of the era.
The talk didn't let up as the model entered adulthood in the spotlight, boosting her celebrity cachet by dating actors such as Johnny Depp, and most recently Pete Doherty, the 26-year-old former Libertines front man, who has allegedly been in and out of drug rehab.
As Moss' status grew, so did paparazzi interest.
In 1998, she made headlines when she reportedly checked into a London rehabilitation clinic after suffering from what was termed "exhaustion." Two years later, she was hospitalized again, reportedly for a kidney infection. In 2003, the chain-smoker was reportedly diagnosed with a sleeping disorder. Allegations of her cocaine use never let up.
French fashion consultant Anne de Champigneuil said Moss should have been more careful.
"A brand has the right to ask for what it wants," she said. "People are lucky to have such great contracts, and they need to respect them."
"It's a shame to give (fans) this example," said Champigneuil. "Everyone identifies with a star."
As the glamour magazines crafted Moss' rise with constant shots of the wide-eyed, five-foot-six model, some parts of the tabloid press appeared just as determined to orchestrate her fall.
She recently settled a libel suit with Britain's Sunday Mirror that published an article in January alleging that during a visit to Barcelona, Spain, in June 2001, Moss collapsed into a drug-induced coma and had to be revived after taking large amounts of cocaine.
It was the same tabloid that ran the pictures of her cocaine use last week.
Simone Marchetti, a fashion writer for the Italian female magazine Donna Moderna suggested that the press has a love-hate relationship with international superstars like Moss.
"There's a tendency to create a myth and then to destroy it," said Marchetti.
And there has been a history of models crashing and burning over drug use. Gia Carangi, a Vogue model in the late 1970s, was known for her heroin and cocaine use and her raucous partying at New York Studio 54. The model later died of AIDS.
Moss' troubles may go beyond the loss of lucrative contracts: Scotland Yard announced this week it plans to call Moss in for questioning over the drug allegations.
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