[MEGA] Every Year's Community Growing advice, tips, tricks, & experiences

[Arobskittle]

where the hell is prelude? how them yellow bitches doing?

 

[dontstopthemusic]

your light should be high enough to just about crisp/dry the top leaves then back it off about an inch... 14-18" is about average... if you are too far you will just make the leaves REACH for light which is fine if you are trying to create stems... if you have one available turn on a florescent lamp about 1/2 way up the plants height to aid the lower leaves in getting extra light... you can also trim some leaves off to get light from you hid too.

as stated above... trial and error...

also if you are using soil... try to let the thing dry out a little... currently i have my uncle on a 3 day watering cycle... not everyday... basically we have a chopstick in the soil... when he pulls it out he can feel with his fingers how WET and how DEEP the moisture goes kinda like you do with brownies and cake.

^ a way for you crackas to finally use chopsticks.

i also told him to aerate the soil too so it helps with compacting, enough perlite/sponge rock would do that also... he jumped the gun and put too much soil/perlite in the bucket. no biggie... week 4 and the plants are about 6' tall so hes do aight. currently hes using bushmaster to help with the height...

those who dont know what bushmaster is... id suggest you read up on it if you ever plan on growing a sativa indoors...


i have a question...

who here is only using florescent lamps... and is anyone using those new sulfer/plasma ones...

christmas bonus coming up just wanna know if its even worth the investment over my mh/hps 400's...

ive seen led lamps here and i must say it does work just not as they are touted with a 90w against a mh/hps 400... good for growing peppers... not pot... not yet at least... every site im a member of no one wants to give me info on the stealth systems... id prefer to run led if its available and grows as well as a hps. if you are using a stealth system please tune in or pm me... thanks

 

[Prelude2TragedyII]

Well, I kind of stopped posting here, or anywhere for that matter.
Felt like I was getting quite a bit of criticism, just for asking questions because I really didn't k now what the problem was , or what to do, and when I've got 15 - 20 different answers, thats not really going to help narrow my options down, I tried foliar spraying for a week and a half, no improvment.
Tried flushing, slight improvement.
Just decided to lower my pH to 5.5, that seemed to help.

I've got about 3 1/2 weeks left of flowering.
Should I still be using a bit of Tiger bloom, or should I use Big Bloom ( I'm not going to be able to switch my nutrient until my next crop,anywho, I just realized, alot of the Tiger Bloom bottles I see say "organic" the one I have says "extra Strength" but both products have 2-8-4.)
Anywho, What should I be using in the last 3 or so weeks to feed them, or just let them eat what ever is left in the soil?

[IF anyone has suggestions on Nutrients, I would greatly appreciate it,something simple, 3 part] Also, I think I may be sticking with Fox Farms Ocean Forest Soil, as it seemed to do pretty well, Im thinking about adding about 1/4th peat moss to help with pH. Are there better soils than FF OC? What are my options, also, what should I add to my soil, I just used straight FF-OC this grow, Im guessing I should add vermiculite, peatmoss, or just find a better Soil/Mix.

I remeber someone saying something about filling a trashcan with soil, and adding water, and letting it bake out in the sun, Im assuming it wouldn't get warm enough to bake the soil...

So, Sorry for asking the same questions over and over if thats the problem, if someone could help me out picking a high quality soil, and what I should add to it , to help simplify the whole feeding process so I can get some beneficial stuff going on in the oil, Idk,

I think a large problem is I don't quite understand chemistry, I passed biolology, but chemistry just fucking blows my mind, I can't understand any of it. It was all about the perioidic tables when i was in school, and that was just boring, i wanted to know how chemicals react with eachother, how biology ties in with chem, but never got the chance to put the two together, so , sorry for my ignorance, Ill take some pics tonight if I get the time.

Both Purple Kush are looking good, G13 and Sour Diesel have a Yellow top, Both of my Purple Kushes, which seem to be completely different are growin well, the Afghan kush is going well, Northern Lights has a nice sized bud, starting to weigh down the branch to the side, lol, Anywho..

Sorry guys for taking things wrong. I've just been having ALOT of emotional and physical problems lately. My Insurance is cut, paying 700$ for suboxone , another 200 for my Clonidine and Ativan,
-Was kind of curious to know what happens if you just continue to let a plant flower, will it just get airy and start producing crappy bud, or will it just die off

 

[Artificial Emotion]

Prelude you shouldn't spray during flowering as it is probably the best way to encourage mold. I'm sure you don't want bud rot, right?

As for nutrients, I'd recommend using Biobizz fishmix and I know thisbis available where you live. You can use it for pretty much the whole grow on it's own. Otherwise if you're in coir, which I think you would prefer anyway, for many reason - not least because the growth rates are much much faster, Ive noticed Hesi coir feed consistenly gets the most positive reviews (I certainly like it). Just make sure to get a coir feed I'd you're in 100% coir and a normal organic nutrient of you're in soil, due to the differing characteristics of the medium. Whatever you do, I personally would avoid the heavily marketed and expensive Advanced Nutrients. You'll find that a lot of nutrients are pretty similar if there's nothing majorly wrong with them. High yields don't usually come in a bottle.

If your nutrient is truly organic, an EC Reading is essentially meaningless anyway. If your nutrient is organic then perhaps this could be part of the reason your grow isn't going as you would have liked.

I know Canna soils are available in the US. I would recommend their coir or even their terra soils. You can't go wrong with their products.

I understand you're going through a tough time, so I apologise for being a bit harsh before. I know growing can be difficult when there are opinions and approaches that are often at odds with each other. But with some things you'll at least find some consensus, so it's not all that bad. I hope you have better luck next grow mate.

 

[Mehm]

On your last question..my understanding is that it produces something that resembles an actual flower. I'm really not sure though

For soil, here is a KISS recipe. Use the dank Fox Farm soil. Nutes won't be necessary for a few weeks. After that start top feeding (IE putting a cup full on top of the soil) with pure worm castings. If you really want to be a hippy about it you can make your own worm bin and produce the castings yourself. I find this to be a very therapeutic and interesting hobby..one of my favorites.

Just use worm castings from start to finish.

Also, make a tea with the casting and mix in a product called "EM". You can find it from a company called Might Microbes. Foliar spray every day or two with the worm tea/EM mix. Go very light or not at all with the spray once heavy buds start to form. I'll take a picture of my veggie garden to show you the results.

I'm glad you are getting something from your current grow.

Best of luck with the opiate/anxiety shit. Up your vitamins, fruits, and veggies for real

 

[Mehm]

NSFW:

 

[Artificial Emotion]

Prelude, I think you should just get an off the shelf compost and do nothing to it. If it's properly made you won't need to add perlite or anything to it. With this I would simply use a single nutrient such as fishmix. Once you've got to grips with that then you can start experimenting. Doing it this way there's really no reason why you need to deal with any of the issues you've been having.

 

[dontstopthemusic]

as stated here are a few pics from the transplant day (my uncle used just a store bought hydro mix, foxhill farms)

and here we are about 3 weeks in on the hps

and this is his first time growing ever... just in a bathtub sending pictures... prelude id suggest you do the same... post pics and what not of what you are seeing... it really helps make the right suggestions...

 

[Artificial Emotion]

Buying a simple off the shelf compost and using a single feed like fishmix can't get any easier, really. This way there are only three things you're really using (apart from the influence of the environment of course) - the medium, the single nutrient and water. I think if you're having trouble like prelude is, keeping it as simple as you can possibly make it is the only way of hoping to get a really good result.

I've said it before and I'll say it again, high yields don't come from a bottle. Understandably, it's easy to get caught up in all the hype. Unfortunately, before you know it your yields are less and your bud is worse than if you'd taken the much simpler, cheaper option.

However, I'm not sure whether Prelude is even posting anymore unfortunately.

 

[Prelude2TragedyII]

No need to apologize , just , blah lately, my fault anyways, been feeling crappy lately and just , been taking everything wrong, sorry about that.

benzo withdrawal = not fun.
Kinda weird my doctor of 10 years handed my case to someone else when I told him I need back on medi-cal and might have to goto a state hearing and he would have to tell them the reason I need them to pay for my meds
(About 900-1000$ total monthly) and I make about, 300-400$ ,Wish I could find a full time job In California right now, blah


Anywho


Afghan Kush

NSFW:

Northern Lights

NSFW:

NSFW:

Purple Kush

NSFW:

All I had time to get pics of. Wish they were more clear, some of these plants have alot of trichomes (Northern Lights, and the Purple Kush seem to have the most, the Afghan kush doesnt have much , but it has pistils everywhere, thinking it might taking longer to mature, the G13 is still yellow, still is the sour diesel, I kinda dont care thought, its whatever, G13s leaves turned a nice pruple though [due to cold].

 

[Wise420]

There looking alright there prelude. I gotta say though, I think with that last shot there are banana's on the very top aka male flowers.

If they are then cut those things off asap

 

[Wise420]

Here are some shots of my little pineapple punch girl outdoors. She's going into the ground in 2 days then has roughly 1-2 months till she flowers.

 

[Prelude2TragedyII]

The Wind was blowing on that one, the picture was blurry, well the plant was because it kept moving back and forth, they aren't that large, and Im pretty they aren't, the rest of the plant is normal, should I really cut it off ? I dont have that camera annymore, ijust have my cell phone camera, I could try another picture (also, the top is yellow, it was one of the defcicincy plants. not nearly as bad tho)


What are the temps where you are outdoors right now, its about 30F here, lol

 

[Artificial Emotion]

Prelude they look okay. I can see a bit of nutrient burn but apart from that they look okay. So you'll definitely get some bud!!

Wise, very nice looking plants mate! Well done.

Prelude don't cut them off yet. Not until you/we are sure they're nanas. Definitely don't cut it off unnecessarily. Try and post a better pic of you can. However I think Wise may very well have a point. If they are hermies you need to pinch those balls off ASAP before it's too late and you get a seeded crop. However if they are nanas it might be too late. If so, it's not the end of the world as a) you'll get free seeds and b) the weed will be better than a lot of people might expect. I accidentally pollinated a crop before and it had only a very minor effect on the potency.

When I get a new PC (another one!) I'll try and post a picture of my grow. It's amazing that only 3 plants have almost taken over my 1.2mx1.2m DR120 tent scrog screen! It'll be nice to have a before and after photo. Hopefully I'll be able to get a photo of them in flower up for all to see!

Edit: after looking at your first and second pics blown up, Prelude, it does look like there are nanas or that seeds have started to form. Can you not take macro shots for us? Try and pinch off those suspect areas to see if seeds have formed too if you can.

 

[Prelude2TragedyII]

well its the smallest plant, if its going to (might)make seeds, Id rather take it out than risk it , lol, but , Ill try to post a better pic

 

[Artificial Emotion]

In the meantime pinch one of those oval-shaped bodies off to see if little white or brown seeds are inside. Hopefully you know where I referring to.

Edit: if it's seeded it might not necessarily be because of hermaphrodite plant(s). It could also because you failed to remove/cull a male quickly enough. Or are they feminized beans?

 

[Artificial Emotion]

Since this thread is about tips and tricks, here's one you'll all love. Ever wondered whether your hygrometer is at all accurate? The simple fact is many digital and analogue hygrometers alike can be wildly innacurate. So, here's a simple trick using salt and either distilled or RO water that can be used to calibrate your hygrometer at home:

So here’s what you’ll need to perform this simple experiment:
(1) Distilled water (purchased from any grocery store)
(2) Coffee stirrer (or other thin, clean object with which to stir)
(3) Bottle cap (Snapple bottle caps work perfectly)
(4) Empty wide-mouth jar with lid (like an old mayonnaise jar)
(5) Tablespoon of plain table salt (I suggest Mortons – it’s made in Chicago)
(6) Your hygrometer (duh)
Place the tablespoon of salt within the bottle cap and slowly add distilled water to the salt while stirring with the coffee stirrer. Only add just enough water to moisten the salt so that it becomes a thick paste. Do not add enough water to dissolve the salt!
Place the bottle cap with salt gently into your wide-mouth jar and add your hygrometer. Make certain the sensor is exposed and is not blocked by the sides of the jar. Seal the jar so there are no leaks and put it in a place out of direct sunlight and with a stable, cool temperature (like your closet).
Leave the setup undisturbed for a minimum of eight hours. After that, check the reading on the hygrometer through the glass jar – it should read on or near 75 percent relative humidity.
Due to the salt paste reacting with the confined air, the ambient relative humidity within the jar will be exactly 75 percent. Most inexpensive hygrometers are only accurate to within 3 percent, so do not be surprised if yours reads 72 or 78 percent. Whatever it reads plus or minus our 75 percent benchmark is the amount of error of your hygrometer.
If your hygrometer has an adjustment potentiometer then, by all means, try to tweak it to exactly 75 percent relative humidity. You should repeat the salt calibration test after making any adjustments. If your hygrometer can’t be adjusted but the reading is close, then my advice is to not worry about it; just remember that your hygrometer is X percent off – either high or low. If the reading is grossly in error and you are unable to adjust it, you need to replace it.

 

[goaheadanjuna]

I don't think it's light bleaching that's causing the severe chlorosis (aka yellowing in plain English). The tops look like they could possibly be a bit scorched, but it's hard to tell whether that's from the lights being too close. I doubt it if I'm truly honest though. But hey, you never know what the issue could be at the end of the day.

Edit:if some plants are only 8" then that's too close mate.

Prelude, are you able to give EC readings as opposed to ppm? Or does your meter only read in ppm units? There's no 'set' ppm you should be giving your plants.



Prelude, feed your plants at 50% the "regular" dose now at every feeding. Otherwise you might end up at square one again.

hi arofficial emotion, just need a bit of advice, ive got just one lovely lady on the go and its my first time, some of her leaves were looking a bit, well dowdy so i asked on here and it was me underfeeding her, NOW in just a day she looks lovely, she has been on a 600 for only a week now and she is very bushy, now wat im worried about is that in the uk where i live its fucking freezing and im a bit worried that she might get sick, she is in a meter square cupboard, any advice or should i just leave her be, she is looking very healthy, thanx

 

[Artificial Emotion]

If you're in hydro the solution is quite simple. However, you're in compost, right? If so, I would invest in an oil filled radiator. I use an 800W one in my DR120 and it works brilliantly. If it's too large to fit in I would place in by the intake so it works like an improvised fan heter and sucks the warm air into your grow room.

Otherwise, invest in tube heaters. They're usually green coloured and come in 2 sizes. You may need a couple though, and should use timers or an ET105 (I think that's the code - I'll check later) plug in thermostat to control it.

Make sure when you water your plants the water temp is 20-23C and turn down your extraction a bit if possible. You could also wrap insulation, like bubble wrapping around the pots so they retain heat easier. I'll try and think of some more things when I get back later mate.

 

[goaheadanjuna]

i hav a small fan heater that blows cold air and also it has 2 heat settings, wat do you think if i put it in on just warm for during when she is sleeping as the light does the job otherwise eh, she is looking healthy and the little problem of underfeeding is bow solved, how long should i keep her on 12/12? Im in no rush with her as i want to learn much as i can with her so the next time i will have a little more experience and hopefully a better did, i a read on here that you can get a gramme per watt so if i can get 600 g off one plant i will be very happy, i think i need to improve my set up, ie fan inlet, in the cupboard where she is i have a hole cut in the plasterboard tha goes directly into the lofty advice wat would be the best way to utilise it,