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[MEGA] Every Year's Community Growing advice, tips, tricks, & experiences

Mother Plant Methods

so, ive got 2 very nice girls selected, one Sensi Seed NL#5, and a Privada Purple Wreck(Purp Urkle x TW).

ive kept a mother (purple ice) going with the Bonsai method; until i was incapacitated and unable to even consider tending to her: 1.5 L soiless.

i could go 5g DWC, but not if nutrient mix needed to be changed less then every 2-3 weeks (light ppm yes)

5-10g well aerated soil, or just a 3-5g container?

i have some RockWool Grow Cubes, and 2 sq yards of Perlite which would fluff the grow cubes up into 10g of medium, this seems most ideal for the plant besides a dialed in DWC. but, soil sounds safer for me personally, knowingthat there are multiple streaks, where for several days and nights,,, iam blind with pain, so...

i have a pumps, containers, tubing, drip steaks, aeroponic capability, a variety of soil(less) amenities, tube/cfl floros, 400w HPS & switchable 400w MH/HPS, sunny corners & raised sky lights ;)(topsytervy), an ebb & flood table (good for two medium sized mums)

um yeah, what would you do?
what did you wish you didnt do? hah
im limited with where i can ignite the halide, wish i could use it, but should for flowering, i have 4 various color temp t 10 tubes, and varied cfl's.


what say you?
feed my brain...
:p
 
@ minddetergent, ^Wolfgang knows what up bro, introducing the seedlings to HID lighting a little bit at a time over the course of a week is a good way to go. No changing bulbs is involved, it just involves moving hoods from the one running the MH to the CFL. Easy.
 
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@ PIP: I am going to recommend the larger soil container, but that's because I like to keep my set up simple with less pampering. Soil is the most forgiving medium imo.
Mate my plants only stretch when I put them in flower and when they get under the old HPS they start to grow faster! Stress would cause them to go slower and internode distance isn't increasing so your theory doesn't hold water. My plants are always very healthy as well, I can post pics if you would like to see how my plants grow.

Swapping back and forth whether its light levels, ph levels, root temp or any aspect of the growth process that can fluctuate can cause stress, we want a consistent environment.
You are taking my advice too personally. I never said ANYTHING about how your plants ARE. You asked me why I gave the method I did, and I told you. I don't need your pics to prove my point. You haven't even tried my method, so why bother giving me your results?
@ minddetergent, ^Wolfgang knows what up bro, introducing the seedlings to HID lighting a little bit at a time over the course of a week is a good way to go. No changing bulbs is involved, it just involves moving hoods from the one running the MH to the CFL. Easy.
Exactly. And to add to this, if you have multiple rooms set up for each stage of growth as I do, all you have to do is pick up the plant and move it to the appropriate light. Like you said, it's easy.
 
@ minddetergent, ^Wolfgang knows what up bro, introducing the seedlings to HID lighting a little bit at a time over the course of a week is a good way to go. No changing bulbs is involved, it just involves moving hoods from the one running the MH to the CFL. Easy.

But placing under HPS/MH and gradually reducing the height of the light works better which is why grower all across the world do it. Placing the light far away doesn't stress them, I don't brag but I don't think my plants could get any healthier at least not to the eye, green and very shiny, no deficiencies ever, yield well, thats the picture of health.

But if you want to make more work for yourself and delude yourself into believing that it makes a difference then you should also sleep in your grow room as the extra co2 will increase your yield.(obviously you must sleep with lights on).

We will have to agree to disagree. All the best for your plants, may they grow green and shiny.
 
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Aw man I remember naming my first plants, that's so cool.

Anyway, you want to make sure the sprouts are nice and healthy before changing their lights. 6cm is a little too small. Give them at least another couple of cms of growth. If and when you are ready, don't immediately give them your full vegetation hours of MH.

The first day give them a couple of hours of MH, then put them back in the CFL. Next day four hours of MH, and return to CFL. The next day 8 hours of MH and so on. This way if you notice any issues you can immediately address them instead of having a plant burn/welt/die in 24 hours without notice.

This limits the stress you put on them and allows you to transfer lights a little quicker than if you wait until they are big enough to handle the 24 hour change in one day.

haha thanks, names are kinda cool, helps me with idea when i actually want children :P
thanks for the idea on converting the lighting, i have a nice selection of equipment so the timing and changing process should go really swell.

i read previously in this forum but for the life of me i aint going thru 19 pages :) determining the sex early on i can take a cuttling and place it in a seperate room under 12/12 hour light and this will tell me what plant is what..... my question is, whilst at this point the other main plants will be under nice 400watt MH lamps, can i determine the sex of the cuttlings i ll take under a 130watt fluro??

thanks
 
HerBaL

But placing under HPS/MH and gradually reducing the height of the light works better which is why grower all across the world do it. Placing the light far away doesn't stress them, I don't brag but I don't think my plants could get any healthier at least not to the eye, green and very shiny, no deficiencies ever, yield well, thats the picture of health.

But if you want to make more work for yourself and delude yourself into believing that it makes a difference then you should also sleep in your grow room as the extra co2 will increase your yield.(obviously you must sleep with lights on).

We will have to agree to disagree. All the best for your plants, may they grow green and shiny.

Relax mate, your taking this a little personal, your way works for you, good job. Glad your plants are healthy. But there is many ways to garden and the way I described is a proven method with killer results. Like you said lets agree to disagree, or understand there is more than one way to do something.
 
haha thanks, names are kinda cool, helps me with idea when i actually want children :P
thanks for the idea on converting the lighting, i have a nice selection of equipment so the timing and changing process should go really swell.

i read previously in this forum but for the life of me i aint going thru 19 pages :) determining the sex early on i can take a cuttling and place it in a seperate room under 12/12 hour light and this will tell me what plant is what..... my question is, whilst at this point the other main plants will be under nice 400watt MH lamps, can i determine the sex of the cuttlings i ll take under a 130watt fluro??

thanks

Oh yea and the fluro lamp will do fine to sex your cuttings.
 
I used to put seedlings or clones under my high wattage HID with the light raised high with no problems, but I think it's a but of a waste of electricity. In the long term I think it's better to use either a low wattage HID (250W) or fluorecents to save power. The 250W HID is ideal and the best more or less for this purpose if you can afford to spend the money. Using this light your cuts/seeds will get off to a much faster start.
 
I would like to ask, wolfgang, greenstar, PC et al, what do you personally do with trim or waste foliage?

I'm going to be making bubble hash out of my waste trim and am going to use my waste foliage in my new wormer which I'm setting up, to make homemade vermicompost. This way I'll be able to use 100% of the plant to produce useful products and feel all self righteous and warm inside!

mindstar, like GS says, don't take it personally. I have disagreements with people here sometimes but I don't hold grudges or take it to heart.
 
Well, I flushed my plants, I've started foliar feeding, The tops leaves that are coming out are still yellow but the small little leaves that are on the buds are coming out green, but the leaves on top are still yellow. Seems the leaves come out half yellow half green, then go yellow, odd.

They haven't changed much.
So, I guess Im gonna go spend another 75$ on a digital ph meter to see if the one I have is fucked up or, what, if that seems find, I will buy a PPM/EC/Salinity meter.(Currently just have the PPM meter).
Been running my pH at about 6.0-.65 right now. My PPM is about 850-900, Is this still alright for the size of the plants, or should I move that up to 1100-1500?

Well, I sure hope things start turning around, because the lower buds on the plant, where the leaves are green, the buds are looking better than the tops of the plant, kinda sucks.
The pistils are like as white/yellow as the leaves are, its lookin pretty bad. I really hope it gets fixed.

I tried cloning a few off of each plant, Not many really made it, I think the plant may have been too far into flowering, they didnt want to root, also,

Can someone answer my question about repotting my 1gals into 3 gals?! they are 2-3 weeks into flower and I need to goto 1 gal to 3 gal , would this stress the plants out? would it be okay? ??
 
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HEy no worries we have disagreed and thats that.

Personally I use trimmings in one of the washing machine style set up, run the trimmings until you get green hash and all thats left of the leaves/buds is a green foam, thats usually about 5 runs with the same material, 1st run is usually full melt(first run i run for just 5 mins to ensure only the best trics on the first run).

I only use a single 70u bag(+ filter bag of course) that comes with the machine, I don't bother with different bags to seperate different size trics, i just want a lump of nice hash and the 1st and 2nd run is always killer.

edit: PRELUDE that yellowing looks similar to offgassing problem but you're not growing in a tent. doesn't look like bleaching either.

IF you are 2 weeks into flower you can transplant but its the case of lesser of 2 evils and rootbound plants in flower is never preferable unless growing sativas.
 
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^ there will be virtually no root growth after two weeks flower, trust me. That's why people do their last pot up two weeks before flipping.

Hey I just noticed we live in the same place. You snowed in?
 
^ there will be virtually no root growth after two weeks flower, trust me. That's why people do their last pot up two weeks before flipping.

Hey I just noticed we live in the same place. You snowed in?

I am a little further south I believe, not snowed in really.

I believe if the plant is root bound it will grow new roots if re-potted, I've only done it once and yeah you should be potted up to the final pot before flowering but things don't always go according to plan. I'd rather slow the flowering cycle slightly then get big deficiency/lockout problems in week 4/5 etc.

The great thing about coco is you can grow a plant the yields , say a 100 grams in a 3 litre pot for example so its real hard to get root bound.
 
^ that's true. Coco is quite a different kettle of fish than compost though. It's hard to keep track of what media everyone is using.

Do you use bubble bags to make hash? Do you know or anyone else know of any cheap suppliers here in the UK? I don't want to pay for brand names.
 
haha thanks, names are kinda cool, helps me with idea when i actually want children :P
thanks for the idea on converting the lighting, i have a nice selection of equipment so the timing and changing process should go really swell.

i read previously in this forum but for the life of me i aint going thru 19 pages :) determining the sex early on i can take a cuttling and place it in a seperate room under 12/12 hour light and this will tell me what plant is what..... my question is, whilst at this point the other main plants will be under nice 400watt MH lamps, can i determine the sex of the cuttlings i ll take under a 130watt fluro??

thanks
No problem.

As for sexing your cuttings, Greenstar420 answered your question well; your fluros will work well for sexing the cuttings.

I would like to ask, wolfgang, greenstar, PC et al, what do you personally do with trim or waste foliage?
When I have a lot, and a chance to use (don't own one yet) a bubble bag, I'll use a 70 micron and a 25 micron in addition to the work bag. Sometimes I will cook with the trimmings I have to make cannabutter or I make an alcohol tincture (green dragon). The most common method I use though is making iso hash oil with my trimmings; it's the cheapest and easiest way for me to essentially get something from 'nothing'.
 
No problem.

As for sexing your cuttings, Greenstar420 answered your question well; your fluros will work well for sexing the cuttings.


When I have a lot, and a chance to use (don't own one yet) a bubble bag, I'll use a 70 micron and a 25 micron in addition to the work bag. Sometimes I will cook with the trimmings I have to make cannabutter or I make an alcohol tincture (green dragon). The most common method I use though is making iso hash oil with my trimmings; it's the cheapest and easiest way for me to essentially get something from 'nothing'.

alcohol tincture, that sounds quite interesting.... care to elaborate??
 
I use 95% grain alcohol (everclear), and I soak trim/bud/whatever in the alcohol for some time. Then using very low heat, I slowly boil the mixture to evaporate some of the alcohol in order to adjust the potency. It's difficult to achieve a consistent tincture because there are so many variables involved, but it's not too hard to make. UTSE for green dragon recipe you should be able to find some.
 
I would like to ask, wolfgang, greenstar, PC et al, what do you personally do with trim or waste foliage?

I'm going to be making bubble hash out of my waste trim and am going to use my waste foliage in my new wormer which I'm setting up, to make homemade vermicompost. This way I'll be able to use 100% of the plant to produce useful products and feel all self righteous and warm inside!

Hey bro, I just give my trim to a buddy of mine that has skills and patience to make some really good bubble hash using bubble bags. I hate pulling bags but love the end result! fine golden full melt=D!!
 
Well, plants are 2 weeks and 3 days into flower, the yellow leaves are still yellow(Except in one plant, I caught it early enough and the leaves are going back to green..)

Now, The plants that were having the problems are now pushing out what looks like green leaves where the flower/bud would be, along with all the pistils and what not, except , the tips of the leaves are yellow, but closer to the main stem, they get greener.

I think I will be moving the larger two clones into 3 gal containers, and if theres enough room under the 600 watt light, I might put the other 2 clones in 3 gal containers as well...
I know it was mentioned that there wont be much root growth during flowering, but, could moving them into a larger pot possibly help with some of the problems I'm having? I flushed all of my clones that were yellowing at the tops yesterday, so Im guessing theres not much in the soil, if I do transplant them, should I feed them? Or just give them some tap water with micro nutrients or something.
I've heard transplanting plants that are flowering is a bad idea and can stress out the plant? Im debating whether to change them or not and I gotta make the decision fast.

When Im just using straight water, to water my plants (days when they dont get nutes) , does my ppm still need to be around 700-1000? Or when I water without nutes should it just be what ever the waters ppm is.
Because my tap comes out at 425 ppm , as I've mentioned, and I don't know how to raise the ppm without adding nutes to the water, so if someone could clear that up Id appreciate it.


Also, tried to take cuttings, 2 wilted and died, the other 2 dont look too healthy, but they were flowering, so maybe they are just jacked up going from flower back to veg, anyways , Ill try to take some clear pics and post em
 
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