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[MEGA]Community Growing advice, tips, tricks, & experiences Part 5 (2012-2013)

I was actually planning on trellising instead. Here's a diagram of what it should look like:

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This way the plant will grow on one single plane perpendicular to the east-west direction, so all the foliage will be facing the south. This is why I have topped once.

As for the autos in the fabric pots, because they're autos I prefer to grow them as single cola plants. There is some question as to whether it is a true auto or not but I've decided to just play it safe instead.

Hey sounds like a good plan to me. Good luck to you sir, I would love to see how they turn out with the trellises.
 
^ Thanks mate, I loving trying new growing techniques so it should be interesting. I can't see any reason why it shouldn't work.

Living, here's some pics I took today!! I didn't take any pics of the Thai Fantasy plants because they were very droopy after not being watered. They should recover by the next time I get to them. Getting water to my location is difficult and it hasn't been raining much so collecting rainwater has been out of the question.

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Damn that Thai looks healthy!
I have a Lasqueti Haze from BCBud depo (fuck these guys, they list fake landrace strains and don't refund you when they take the seeds off their site the next day after you purchase them), I planted the seed in may and it still hasn't shown sex yet! I'm thinking its all my nitrogen in the soil so I'm going to flush the shit out of it right now and then hit it with some bloom fish ferts and seaweed extract.

Do you guys think I should Ph my flushing water? I'm thinking I don't have to since ph effects nutrient uptake and I'll be phing my next feed like always, but yeah another viewpoint is always good :) Ps my water sits at around 8, but I ph to 6.5-6.8
 
Thanks mate. The plant in the first photo is an outdoor grapefruit (Female Seed Co), the second a frisian dew (Dutch Passion) and the second to last photo with the plant with thinner sativa-dom leaves is a purple maroc (Female Seed Co). I didn't include the Thai Fantasy plants in the pics above because they were wilted but I will next time. They are looking pretty good and have the furthest developed flowers of all the plants.

About BC Bud Depot, they have a terrible reputation and I just wish I could have warned you beforehand, but at least you know now. It's just a shame you had to spend money.

About flushing, I hope this quote will help. It's a post from oldtimer1 on uk420 (he's the guy that bred strains like oldtimer's haze, smile, no name etc.) and deals with flushing excess nutrients out and flushing before harvest:

As far as flushing goes, there are several misconceptions about flushing in the cannabis world that personally I do not consider to be true, I’ll deal with compost/soil as this is what we are talking about here.. In the cannabis world the term is used to cover several different things. Years ago in the cannabis world the term was exclusively used to refer to dealing with removing an excess of chemicals/minerals from compost/soil after an excess of fertiliser had been applied, by running several times the volume of water through the compost to remove the excess chemical salts.

This works where chemical salt fertilisers have been used and a large overdose has been fed in the short term. Say a 10 litre pot of compost by running 20 to 50 litres of pure water through it would save a plant where it had by mistake been fed double or triple the maximum dose, as long as done before the plant wilted down to much.

Where it does not work so well, is where slightly high chemical fertiliser doses have been used over a long period until the salts have been absorbed my the humus above saturation point and started crystallising in hard salt forms some of these are pretty toxic, start killing roots and can not be washed out of compost in the short term.

Anyhow the using the term flushing under the above circumstances is pretty much correct I think and in line with general horticultural termsused today.

Over the last ten years or so the the term flushing has started to be bastardised as a term in the cannabis world. Referring to removing elements from a plant via the roots into the compost by just using water for the last week or two and believing this happens. It does not happen as far as N:P:K is concerned, roots of plants do excrete various chemical some even work as complex weed killers inhibiting other plants growing close by, but not as fertiliser salts back into the soil, well not until the roots start dying/rotting and becoming part of the humus mass.

So the term flushing as far as removing chemical from the plant by just using water in the last week or two of a plants life may well be an incorrect term to use, if you equate:- to flush, to = to drive out or to wash out with a large volume of water. When as has been said what actually happens is in fact the plant is starved of nutrition and is forced to metabolise any internal excess and then past that into leaching from the leaves to try and complete its life cycle ie: finish flowering and make provision to reproduce its self.
 
Thanks mate. The plant in the first photo is an outdoor grapefruit (Female Seed Co), the second a frisian dew (Dutch Passion) and the second to last photo with the plant with thinner sativa-dom leaves is a purple maroc (Female Seed Co). I didn't include the Thai Fantasy plants in the pics above because they were wilted but I will next time. They are looking pretty good and have the furthest developed flowers of all the plants.

About BC Bud Depot, they have a terrible reputation and I just wish I could have warned you beforehand, but at least you know now. It's just a shame you had to spend money.

About flushing, I hope this quote will help. It's a post from oldtimer1 on uk420 (he's the guy that bred strains like oldtimer's haze, smile, no name etc.) and deals with flushing excess nutrients out and flushing before harvest:
Ah ok gotcha, yeah they all look solid.

And about the flushing, my thinking was that the plant was still up taking nitrogen which was stopping it from flowering, so I just wanted to flush the remaining nitrogen out of the soil so the plant will stop up taking it. Thankfully I haven't burnt the plant or anything, she (hopefully!) is very healthy.

But thanks for the quote :)
 
Perhaps but why bother when cheapo CFLs work? I can get 23W CFLs for under £1 ($1.55) and one of those works just fine. Why try and reinvent the wheel when what we have works perfectly well? IMO if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Don't get me wrong, I love the idea of LED lighting that works but when you compare the performance with the initial layout cost they are never worth it. One of the biggest attractions is low heat dissipation but once you start upping the power to try and make up for the poor penetration of the light (wattages nearing 0.6-1kW for example) you start producing a suprising amount of heat, despite what the manufacturers state.

For many years people have been saying just wait, the technology will improve to a such a point that it's viable for commercial and domestic growing and the cost will fall in one or two years but it just never happens. I've given up waiting and I think it's more likely different technology, not LED lighting will replace HID lighting in the future. As well as being more efficient this new lighting will hopefully give a light spectrum closer to that of the actual sun. It's really only a matter of time but I think it will take quite a number of years before this happens. Until then the I will stick with lighting that has a proven track record i.e. the actual sun or HID lights and fluorescents for clones.
 
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^I agree and I like the heat that is put off by the fluorescents as it helps in rooting even when using a heat pad..

IMO leds are a waste of money as i dont think they even add much even when combined with a traditional HPS set ups or at least thats what i concluded from looking at the results I got.
 
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Thanks mate. I finally decided to go ahead with an indoor grow now. I settled on doing my 6 fem Reserva Privada Sour Kush aka headband seeds so hopefully it should be interesting.
 
Are fluorescents even workable for growing entire plants? I've met people who claim they have done grows with them but after using an HPS lighting system for mine many years ago, I don't think I would go back. (I don't grow anymore, but if I did I would still use HID.)
 
They most definitely are.

You have to train the plant like crazy (think extreme LST for example) and be prepared for fluffy, low yielding buds relative to HID grows. I know of people that get surprisingly good results from T5s and T8s but as you suggest, there is no comparison to HID lighting. If you are looking to have a small setup just for personal use, a 250W HPS lamp is ideal and is a much better option. You can get use little as 100-150W HPS but 250W is the smallest I would consider using to grow weed. 250W HPS are less efficient than 600W and even 400W HPS but still perform reasonably well and are good for small, discrete wardrobe grows. A lot of people use fluorescents for vegging or clones and HPS for flowering but using fluorescents all the way through is not something I would do or recommend to anyone even if it's possible to do.
 
Take a look at this video. You can use a hand pump to create a vacuum inside those canning jars people use to store their bud so bud can be stored long term without the oxygen spoiling them so quickly:


 
in the early veg state, if spider mites appear will the plants still grow?

Your plants will go downhill from now on if you don't deal with it. You are better dealing with it now rather than hoping you can plod along not doing anything.

Get yourself some abamectin or ivermectin. Failing that get some SB Plant Invigorator, although be prepared for a small percentage of plants to react badly to that by way of mutations etc. Really the neonicotinoid pesticides like the -mectins are ideal for dealing with spidermites because they are safe and effective.
 
Finally got my first grow happening, due to some changes of my circumstances I was unable to order any proper genetics but have a variety of bagseed going, I will hopefully add some known genetics shortly but that remains to be seen.

I am doing an outdoor grow, but for the time being I have my plants inside under a CFL. I borrowed a setup off a friend that is just a small 1 foot by 1 foot tent that is about 2 feet high, inside it has a Phillips 80W 6500k CFL that claims to put out 5300 lumens. I was just wondering how many seedlings this space would be adequate for and to what age? I currently have 3 seedlings under there that sprouted on Monday morning, I have another 5 that I planted on Wednesday night, I am confident that atleast 4 of them will sprout (I soaked them overnight, 4/5 sank) and I was hoping to get 2-3 more in there in the near future. I just wanted to confirm that 5300 lumens would be adequate for this purpose, and to how many weeks I could take 8-10 seedlings under this light before I am just stalling when I put them out.

I am also curious what peoples thoughts are on planting seeds straight into potting soil, I did this for my first 3 because it was all I had on hand at the time, they came up fine but I then did some reading that suggested because it already had nutrients it could burn the plants, would this happen straight away if it was going to or would it happen after a week or two after the plants start forming stronger root systems? I went and got some soil that was specifically for seedlings, but I noticed the manufacturer added water crystals to it which I thought was bad, anyway I did 3 of my 5 new seeds in the seedling mix and 2 in potting mix so I can do a side by side comparison, so I guess I will find out soon enough. LOL

Also, is it advisable to use perlite in seedling soil? My first 3 which sprouted fine I used straight potting soil since I had no perlite on hand, but since most stuff I read on soil grows calls for perlite or vermiculite to be used I went and purchased some and mixed in about one part perlite to 3 parts soil for the 5 I planted the other night. I don't figure it can make a great deal of difference, just maybe change the frequency that it is advisable to water, but just wanted to confirm I haven't made a mistake by doing this.

Sorry, I know these are fairly noob questions, I had a look online and struggled to find an answer to some of them, I am fairly confident that things should work out but being my first grow I am over thinking a little and just hoping to get confirmation from experienced people that I am not fucking up.
 
I keep my seedlings under a 150W for about 10 days to two weeks before using a more powerful light. An 80W CFL is tiny.

Seeds need to go into multipurpose compost or sowing/cutting compost rather than potting compost ('allmix').

As soon as I get into the perlite thing people bang on about what everyone has told them is the case. There's a lot of BS in the canna cultivation world, such as the idea that you MUST adjust tapwater pH when growing organically (I've never done this and my plants have always been just fine - the vast majority of tapwater is just fine and doesn't even have to be bubbled to get rid of chlorine). My take is that perlite is NOT necessary to add to soil. Do half with and half without to see if it really makes a difference but a really good container compost shouldn't require anything to be added to it and if it does, there's something wrong with it. I've seen the side by side experiments and I am unconvinced it really makes a difference. The idea you need perlite comes from the beginning days of canna cultivation when they didn't know how to grow and they started seedlings in massive pots (i mean huge, which is silly) and the medium turned into an anaerobic soggy mess. For some reason they discounted the advice of actual vegetable gardeners thinking that growing cannabis is completely different to growing garden vegetables when in fact cannabis is just another plant and is nothing really special in the scheme of things.

Remember you should ideally be 'potting up' i.e. going from a small pot to a larger one in stages. I like to go from a cup, to 1.3L to 3L to 6L to 12L and so on. You can of course leave out one or two stages if you must but try not to.
 
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I know an 80W cfl is tiny, I was originally going to be sprouting my seedlings in a backyard but because of a serious change of circumstances that was no longer possible, it was only by a stroke of pure luck that a friend happened to have this tiny tent set up spare and was able to lend it to me, I don't really have the budget to try and upgrade it, plus I know fuck all about electronics and am not too handy at the best of times so am not about to go fucking around with someone else's shit I can't really afford to replace.

I am doing a guerrilla grow, I just want to get my plants to ideally 3 or 4 weeks old before planting them in the middle of nowhere and was hoping that would be within this lights capabilities. I have seen numerous grow logs online where people claimed to get anywhere between 40 and 60 gram yields from flowering with CFL's in a total wattage not much greater than 80W (like 110-140W) and since that often takes around 10 weeks or more I was hoping I could get away with a handful of babies making it to a month old in there, would you say this is unrealistic? I could potentially supplement with a lamp or two for several hours per day and/or put them in a sunny spot of the yard for a few hours per day most days if that would be better, I just thought it might stress the plants a little to have such a commonly fluctuating amount of light.

If I am totally honest I was half hoping to keep one or two small plants in there and see how much I could get out of it, I would be stoked to get anything over an ounce and honestly as long as it was good bud even half an ounce wouldn't faze me since I didn't have to pay for the setup. My guerrilla is what I am really hoping will make me self sufficient doing the 80W cab grow would just be a bit of fun and hopefully a small early harvest. That is only a maybe though and my main concern is my guerrilla grow, which is basically why I am just trying to suss out roughly how many plants I can put in there for a period of anywhere between 3 and 5 weeks.
 
You have to remember growing from clone is very different from growing from seed. If they are cropping in 10 weeks in that setup they more likely to be using clones rather than seed which makes sense with such a tiny light.

Yes it would be fine to use but I think you would be better keeping them under the light for a couple of weeks and then moving them to a cheap coldframe to harden them off and get natural sunlight before planting them out. If you want to do an indoor grow take a clone or two from the seed plants when they are sexually mature and flower them straight away. You'll get far better results. If you want my advice I would stick with the guerrilla grow in your situation and concentrate on that if you want the best chances of success but it's up to you. It's just what I would do.
 
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I don't know how long people are taking to harvest in that setup, I was just saying ten weeks as a rough average for what I have seen and read about, overall that was probably a conservative estimate but to me that only reinforces my point that if people are finishing plants in barely over 100 watts then couldn't I get a handful of seedlings or so to 4 weeks under 80. I agree with you that changing to a coldframe would be ideal after a couple weeks, but as I stated I am unable to have them in my yard full time as originally planned. I have had the seedlings under a 18/6 light cycle, I could start putting the plants outside for maybe 4 or 5 hours most days if that would be helpful? Or would the fluctuating amount of light/lumens be more confusing and stressful to the plant than the little bit of extra light is worth? It is worth noting as well, due to colder night temps than I would of liked I have been having the lights off period during the middle of the day (to keep the overall temperature more even), obviously the time I would be putting the seedlings out for, so not only would doing this cause a fluctuating amount of lumens but also a restructuring of the lighting schedule I have been following.

AE I know you are a very experienced grower and I value your advice, I am curious though why you think a miniscule cab grow would detract from my chances of pulling off a guerrilla grow? I am not trying to be argumentative, and obviously you have a great deal of experience and knowledge on this matter, but if I am only able to go visit my plants roughly once a week then it would seem to me I am left with more than enough time left over to manage a tiny indoor grow.
 
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