The graffiti wall at Fifth and Cecil B. Moore is an underground icon, a “permission wall” where property owners give graffiti writers free reign to display their talent.
The wall itself is really three continuous walls: a half-block of Fifth north of Cecil B. Moore, the entire block of Cecil B. between Fifth and Germantown, and a half-block of Germantown north of Cecil B. It’s been painted continually since the ’80s, changing constantly as one mural piece eventually gets swallowed by another.
That’s about to change. The property was recently sold to a developer, who plans to build townhouses on the site.
At 8 a.m. on a foggy gray Saturday a graffiti crew gathers at the wall. This is one of the last times it’ll get painted. There’s a slight breeze to cut the already muggy heat. The shredded plastic bags that cling to the coils of razor wire topping the wall sway along with it. The sidewalk along the wall is covered in spilled paint and scrawled names. The crew pulls tall weeds sprouting from the wall’s base, tossing them in mounting piles at the curb.
The writing on the wall isn’t careless doodles made while one eye watches for cops. These paintings are mural-sized and fully realized. Much of the work, done in DayGlo abstraction, resembles ancient Mayan glyphs, while other pieces look more like cartoon panels. Some of the portraits are so stunningly realistic they land on the eye like a punch, sometimes even clogging up afternoon traffic on Fifth Street as drivers slow to get a closer look.
Off to the side of some of the more accomplished work are the names that identify the artists: “TAME ONE,” “BOOM SKWAD,” “SHAO LINZ FINEST” and “NIGHT LIFE SUPERHEROES.”
For a while after the wall is freshly painted it stays pristine, though it’s hard to say for exactly how long.
After somebody breaks this invisible seal with a squiggled magic marker tag, another tag soon appears, and then another after that. Within days the entire wall is covered in scribbles that swarm the larger conceptual pieces.
The truly supreme work is the last to get touched. The artists behind these pieces are well known—even revered—so their work lasts the longest.
“Those are the little kids,” says crew leader XSR of the scribblers with the magic markers. “They want to get their name up on the wall next to someone well known. It’s a way to build your reputation up. They don’t mean any disrespect.”
XSR (who, like all the graffiti artists here, wants to keep his real name a secret from cops or anyone else who might take issue with what he does) is a rough-looking 26-year-old from Kensington who now lives in the Northeast. Most of his boys are from the Northeast as well, and are similarly rugged.
XSR’s arms are covered in tattoos that express affiliation with the local hardcore scene. He wears a black Dropkick Murphys T-shirt, black New Balance trainers and paint-spattered brown pants. Though he’s been painting walls for nearly 12 years, he’s never painted on the one at Cecil B. Moore before.
He says Philadelphia writers sometimes cross out work by artists from other cities. The wall has featured work by artists from New York, New Jersey and Delaware. Even the famed Seventh Letter Crew—as in the seventh letter in the alphabet, or “G” for graffiti—came all the way from Los Angeles to paint here.
XSR’s stated mission in repainting the wall is to fill it with native Philadelphia artists exclusively. Though XSR expresses respect for visiting artists, he wants to bring the wall back to Philly for a final encore before it disappears for good.
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