So I turned my spore print into spore syringe. The spore print I bought was surprisingly tiny. It was tinier than a dime (10 cent coin). It was a tampanesis spore. So I put a tiny bit of water into a Styrofoam bowl, scraped the spore into the bowl with the water, mixed it and syringed up the mix and into my substrate jars. I read that tampanesis fruits easily, could the tiny amount of spore print I was sold is because it's a heavy fruiting spore?
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PD Moderators: Esperighanto | JackARoe |
does amount of spore print determine how much fruit a mushroom will yield?
- Thread starter ongos
- Start date
szuko000
Bluelight Crew
Its more likely that you received that amount of spores because they are small. I dont really think it matters if they are a large or prolific fruiting strain. I'm not speaking from experience though i only get syringes.
Simply put: no.
The amount of nutrients in the substrate and how well those nutrients are balanced compared to the needs of the mushrooms plus other conditions like the available water in the air and in the substrate (starting with adequate field capacity and also dunking in water to load to the max for a flush), those are what determine the yield.
The amount of spores you inoculate will determine something else though: it will determine how fast and how well of a foothold the fungus will get on the 'ground' i.e. the substrate, and colonize effectively reigning over other germs that were possibly not completely eliminated during sterile procedure.
In practice you should not waste too much inoculant on your substrate, that would often be uneconomical and a little desperate while you rather ought to focus on getting everything else right. If you inoculate cakes, it is often recommended to spread the spores over 4 sites that cover equal zones... most of the time 1 ml of inoculant (spore juice
) is used. If you inoculate significantly larger batches of substrate though - which is probably best to leave for when you get more advanced - then it is probably wise to use a proportionally larger amount of inoculant and inject at more sites.
If you opt for liquid culture, then often you don't have to be so sparingly with your inoculant liquid compared to spore syringes. On the other hand, I have heard that with proper prints you should be able to make multiple syringes like maybe 5? 10 would really be pushing it. I'm talking 10 ml / cc each. But that doesn't mean you can use less than 1 ml / cc to inoculate per cake or unit of substrate because there has to be enough liquid to drip down the sides and spread around a little so that the spores have a sufficient volume to use as a 'launch pad'.
Tampanensis has small caps I think, like the Mexicana. It does not mean they are more densely printed, I'd assume that this is a kind that you should not make multiple syringes with as not to dilute them too much. Apparently you already made it into a syringe so this info is not currently that relevant to you perhaps.
Why did you choose Tampanensis, I don't think they are that suitable for fruiting? It's a strain most often used to produce sclerotia, also called truffles or philosopher's stones. In order to do that you should keep them in the total dark in big jars, but it takes a while to grow them relative to mushrooms.
Good luck, but next time I'd advise you to start with a Cubensis substrain.
Answered?
The amount of nutrients in the substrate and how well those nutrients are balanced compared to the needs of the mushrooms plus other conditions like the available water in the air and in the substrate (starting with adequate field capacity and also dunking in water to load to the max for a flush), those are what determine the yield.
The amount of spores you inoculate will determine something else though: it will determine how fast and how well of a foothold the fungus will get on the 'ground' i.e. the substrate, and colonize effectively reigning over other germs that were possibly not completely eliminated during sterile procedure.
In practice you should not waste too much inoculant on your substrate, that would often be uneconomical and a little desperate while you rather ought to focus on getting everything else right. If you inoculate cakes, it is often recommended to spread the spores over 4 sites that cover equal zones... most of the time 1 ml of inoculant (spore juice
) is used. If you inoculate significantly larger batches of substrate though - which is probably best to leave for when you get more advanced - then it is probably wise to use a proportionally larger amount of inoculant and inject at more sites.If you opt for liquid culture, then often you don't have to be so sparingly with your inoculant liquid compared to spore syringes. On the other hand, I have heard that with proper prints you should be able to make multiple syringes like maybe 5? 10 would really be pushing it. I'm talking 10 ml / cc each. But that doesn't mean you can use less than 1 ml / cc to inoculate per cake or unit of substrate because there has to be enough liquid to drip down the sides and spread around a little so that the spores have a sufficient volume to use as a 'launch pad'.
Tampanensis has small caps I think, like the Mexicana. It does not mean they are more densely printed, I'd assume that this is a kind that you should not make multiple syringes with as not to dilute them too much. Apparently you already made it into a syringe so this info is not currently that relevant to you perhaps.
Why did you choose Tampanensis, I don't think they are that suitable for fruiting? It's a strain most often used to produce sclerotia, also called truffles or philosopher's stones. In order to do that you should keep them in the total dark in big jars, but it takes a while to grow them relative to mushrooms.
Good luck, but next time I'd advise you to start with a Cubensis substrain.
Answered?
wait, tampanesis is not cubensis? I went with it because it's supposed to be the lightest of all psilocybin, correct? You mentioned I could make atleast 5 syringes out of the print I received (about the size of a dime), very small. Are you sure about 5 syringes? Most of it would be water then? I'm just worried if I put too much water to mix the spore print. Does it even matter if I used a lot of water to mix the print with? When I syringed up the mix, it didn't even look like there was enough spore in the syringe, just water. It has only been 2 days, I still do not see the inside of my substrate jars turning white as it's supposed to. I read I need to wait atleast 2 weeks. My syringe is 1 ml/cc. I injected my substrate jars 2 times so 2 ml/cc. I used 3 jars total, 2 ml/cc for each of them. I just need patience right? I did order some penis envy, b+, albino A+, and golden teacher in syringes. I still have 3 substrate jars available, Should I use these to inject those, or which is best? Should I use those things being sold online that come in zip lock bags? It looks like it's ready made stuff, all I have to do is inject the spore.
Simply put: no.
The amount of nutrients in the substrate and how well those nutrients are balanced compared to the needs of the mushrooms plus other conditions like the available water in the air and in the substrate (starting with adequate field capacity and also dunking in water to load to the max for a flush), those are what determine the yield.
The amount of spores you inoculate will determine something else though: it will determine how fast and how well of a foothold the fungus will get on the 'ground' i.e. the substrate, and colonize effectively reigning over other germs that were possibly not completely eliminated during sterile procedure.
In practice you should not waste too much inoculant on your substrate, that would often be uneconomical and a little desperate while you rather ought to focus on getting everything else right. If you inoculate cakes, it is often recommended to spread the spores over 4 sites that cover equal zones... most of the time 1 ml of inoculant (spore juice
If you opt for liquid culture, then often you don't have to be so sparingly with your inoculant liquid compared to spore syringes. On the other hand, I have heard that with proper prints you should be able to make multiple syringes like maybe 5? 10 would really be pushing it. I'm talking 10 ml / cc each. But that doesn't mean you can use less than 1 ml / cc to inoculate per cake or unit of substrate because there has to be enough liquid to drip down the sides and spread around a little so that the spores have a sufficient volume to use as a 'launch pad'.
Tampanensis has small caps I think, like the Mexicana. It does not mean they are more densely printed, I'd assume that this is a kind that you should not make multiple syringes with as not to dilute them too much. Apparently you already made it into a syringe so this info is not currently that relevant to you perhaps.
Why did you choose Tampanensis, I don't think they are that suitable for fruiting? It's a strain most often used to produce sclerotia, also called truffles or philosopher's stones. In order to do that you should keep them in the total dark in big jars, but it takes a while to grow them relative to mushrooms.
Good luck, but next time I'd advise you to start with a Cubensis substrain.
Answered?
Just have some patience.
I meant that if the spore print was small because the caps of this strain are just small, you can expect less spores so I would recommend less spore syringe duplication. I really do hope you used sterile water and a way to prevent contaminations from falling into the water as you prepared the syringes. Common syringes are 10 ccs each, a superwild guess would be that you can stretch it to two syringes of 10, making 20 total but I would play it safe and not make more from them. When you dilute, remember to also use the sterile procedures. You can add lube by the way, to prevent the spores from sticking to the side of the syringe after they have been laying down for a while. Always gently shake the syringes before using them otherwise I'm not surprised if there are only few spores in there. They are so very very tiny that you generally only see a little blackish-purplish hue to the water anyway and not that much more unless they are quite concentrated.
Two days is nothing, just give it time.
Tampanensis are not Cubenses (plural of Cubensis), no. Like I said they are usually used to produce truffles which indeed like you say tend to be on the milder side of the mushroom experience spectrum, the Azurescens and Cyanescens being on the very strong side. Cubensis cover the broad middle ground of the spectrum, they are by and large the most common ones and usually the standard against which all psilocybes are measured.
Tampanensis can also be made to fruit but I cannot give you an expectation of how potent they would be, I guess roughly like P. Mexicana or somewhat like Cubensis or just a little less potent like the Tampanensis truffles. Use the mushroom dose calculator I mention later on, you can find it on the internet.
On the one hand it's a fine idea that you want to start with the milder types but on the other hand you should not really expect to be able to trip half-assed because you do not feel ready for a real mushroom trip. I think you would do well to decide to generally trip on mushrooms or decide against it and not look for a middle ground. BUT you can indeed approach it carefully by starting with a low dose and working your way up on other occasions.
I understand if you are confused now, and don't know whether to let them produce truffles or fruits (the mushrooms themselves). You seem in a hurry, are you? If so, maybe these Tampanenses are not really the way to go for you and you could consider this batch a side-project and shelve the jars in the dark to make truffles for the long term. Then order actual Cubensis spores, and choose your preferred property.
South-American Cubensis substrains like Cambodians or Equadorians tend to colonize faster and stronger, perhaps because of the 'law of the jungle' that pushes them on. Some substrains have a tendency to produce only few mushrooms but very large ones and others produce a large quantity of smaller ones. For a beginner it couldn't hurt to choose a strong substrain that is one of the most common ones like perhaps B+ or PF but in all honesty I don't think that the differences are big enough to make THAT much of a real difference. The way you cultivate them is much more important.
I suppose you perhaps do not want to start over and see where these Tampanenses get you with fruits, well then just have some patience and get them to make mushrooms. Research how you can push Tampanensis to do that instead of staying in-soil making sclerotia. It shouldn't be hard, probably the biggest factor is just to give them access to a little light instead of darkness. Not a lot of light like you do with plants. Just a signal that tells them: this way is up and above-ground.
Then use the mushroom dose calculator I think they have over there on the Shroomery or some similar site to calculate what kind of dose is equal to a certain dose of Cubensis. Check our Beginners FAQ to read how you can find the First Time Tripper thread and First Time Shrooming thread on some opinions on how to pick your initial dose. If you are apprehensive, that could be something like no more than half a standard dose.
And another thing: when you harvest your mushrooms, start drying them immediately unless you plan on eating all of them within a very short period of time. In that case the fridge is okay. But in all other cases just suspend them on something like a plastic mesh (like mesh that keeps mosquitos out of windows) so that air can touch them everywhere. Put them in a place then, that is not so cold that they will dry too slowly but also not so hot that they will degrade. A draft is also vital, air has to flow or blow over them to refresh the air that absorbs water from them.
I recommend after that, that you put them in a tight box or container that has dessicant in it as well to draw the last of the water out and make them what is called "cracker dry".
For anything else, please use our lovely site and the endless info accessible with google.
I meant that if the spore print was small because the caps of this strain are just small, you can expect less spores so I would recommend less spore syringe duplication. I really do hope you used sterile water and a way to prevent contaminations from falling into the water as you prepared the syringes. Common syringes are 10 ccs each, a superwild guess would be that you can stretch it to two syringes of 10, making 20 total but I would play it safe and not make more from them. When you dilute, remember to also use the sterile procedures. You can add lube by the way, to prevent the spores from sticking to the side of the syringe after they have been laying down for a while. Always gently shake the syringes before using them otherwise I'm not surprised if there are only few spores in there. They are so very very tiny that you generally only see a little blackish-purplish hue to the water anyway and not that much more unless they are quite concentrated.
Two days is nothing, just give it time.
Tampanensis are not Cubenses (plural of Cubensis), no. Like I said they are usually used to produce truffles which indeed like you say tend to be on the milder side of the mushroom experience spectrum, the Azurescens and Cyanescens being on the very strong side. Cubensis cover the broad middle ground of the spectrum, they are by and large the most common ones and usually the standard against which all psilocybes are measured.
Tampanensis can also be made to fruit but I cannot give you an expectation of how potent they would be, I guess roughly like P. Mexicana or somewhat like Cubensis or just a little less potent like the Tampanensis truffles. Use the mushroom dose calculator I mention later on, you can find it on the internet.
On the one hand it's a fine idea that you want to start with the milder types but on the other hand you should not really expect to be able to trip half-assed because you do not feel ready for a real mushroom trip. I think you would do well to decide to generally trip on mushrooms or decide against it and not look for a middle ground. BUT you can indeed approach it carefully by starting with a low dose and working your way up on other occasions.
I understand if you are confused now, and don't know whether to let them produce truffles or fruits (the mushrooms themselves). You seem in a hurry, are you? If so, maybe these Tampanenses are not really the way to go for you and you could consider this batch a side-project and shelve the jars in the dark to make truffles for the long term. Then order actual Cubensis spores, and choose your preferred property.
South-American Cubensis substrains like Cambodians or Equadorians tend to colonize faster and stronger, perhaps because of the 'law of the jungle' that pushes them on. Some substrains have a tendency to produce only few mushrooms but very large ones and others produce a large quantity of smaller ones. For a beginner it couldn't hurt to choose a strong substrain that is one of the most common ones like perhaps B+ or PF but in all honesty I don't think that the differences are big enough to make THAT much of a real difference. The way you cultivate them is much more important.
I suppose you perhaps do not want to start over and see where these Tampanenses get you with fruits, well then just have some patience and get them to make mushrooms. Research how you can push Tampanensis to do that instead of staying in-soil making sclerotia. It shouldn't be hard, probably the biggest factor is just to give them access to a little light instead of darkness. Not a lot of light like you do with plants. Just a signal that tells them: this way is up and above-ground.
Then use the mushroom dose calculator I think they have over there on the Shroomery or some similar site to calculate what kind of dose is equal to a certain dose of Cubensis. Check our Beginners FAQ to read how you can find the First Time Tripper thread and First Time Shrooming thread on some opinions on how to pick your initial dose. If you are apprehensive, that could be something like no more than half a standard dose.
And another thing: when you harvest your mushrooms, start drying them immediately unless you plan on eating all of them within a very short period of time. In that case the fridge is okay. But in all other cases just suspend them on something like a plastic mesh (like mesh that keeps mosquitos out of windows) so that air can touch them everywhere. Put them in a place then, that is not so cold that they will dry too slowly but also not so hot that they will degrade. A draft is also vital, air has to flow or blow over them to refresh the air that absorbs water from them.
I recommend after that, that you put them in a tight box or container that has dessicant in it as well to draw the last of the water out and make them what is called "cracker dry".
For anything else, please use our lovely site and the endless info accessible with google.