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Dmt naptha proportion question, need an answer quickly please!!!!

M

MagicalOrangutan

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Jun 9, 2012
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Firstly I need a fairly quick but ACCURATE response from someone that ACTUALLY has done things such as the following (STB DMT extractions), because now I have the naptha, mimosa powder and lye, FINALLY after all this time of waiting.

So, here's what I plan to do. I only have about 50 grams of mimosa powder. What I want to do is take 50 grams of lye (1 gram of lye per gram of mimosa powder), then and the first step will be to add the 50 grams of lye to water, put in the mimosa powder to said basic water and stir on and off for 1.5-2 hours in a warm environment with warm water, then take warm VM&P Naptha and add it to the mimosa/water/lye solution, stir on and off for 30-45 minutes, wait for at least an hour till a dark lower layer and lighter upper layer occurs, take a syringe and separate the top layer, repeat the previous naptha process and mix the two lighter layers together, let them evaporate with the aid of a fan, then vape.

Thing is, 1. will that work to produce potent DMT (not pure but a potent DMT containing compound), and 2. for 50 grams of mimosa powdered bark and 50 grams of lye, how much water and how much naptha would I need? PLEASE TELL ME WITHIN A FEW HOURS THAT"S ALL I HAVE. I know youre not here to hold my hand or spoonfeed me but this is a psychedelic emergency lol. If nothing else tell me in a PM please.

Thank you.

If I use too much naptha to add to the lye/water/mimosa solution, will that somehow lower the amount of DMT absorbed in the naptha when I extract it, damage the DMT, etc.? Or will it simply make it so that I have to wait longer for the naptha to evaporate or precipitate, if I go the freeze-precipitation route?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This isn't an instant response forum, there's no need to put "need an answer quickly please!!!!" at the end of your thread title.

Somebody will answer you soon, however. :)
 
Have you tried following a tek which has all the amounts already worked out for you? 50g NaOH seems like a lot for a small amount of MHRB.

I would do more pulls with smaller quantities of naphtha. I use 5x40ml pulls to extract from 450ml aqueous solution of basified MHRB extract.

Also make sure you wash the combined organic phases in clean water a couple of times to clean out any left over NaOH.
 
Synaptic Gap said:
LMAO...wish I could help but im only familiar with cactus extractions.
Click to expand...

Well I'm finding some answers on other sites anyways. It's just that I've heard of bunk extractions from probably bunk mimosa and maybe incorrectly followed procedures, with STB extractions. I just hope I actually get a potent product with my plan.

And I have no clue about cactus extractions, YET. But I must ask: is ingesting pure mescaline salt more potent/come on better/quicker than drinking cacti tea, assuming both contained the same total amount of mescaline?
 
Can't answer your water question, but your yield will increase greatly if you let it sit a day in between each step.
And also, use 20% more water when you find the exact amount to use since you have the powder. You'll be able to get a bunch of pulls :)
 
You should really get simple measures of getting your acidity (pH) levels, just by applying a drop of the brew liquid onto a color-indication pH paper! I don't find that anywhere in your descriptions and it's a proper way to check if you are actually ready to move on to the next step in your recipe. The steps described in teks can be followed relatively blindly which is utterly simply, BUT you should check at certain points before changing the pH (acidity) again by adding lye or an acid.

There are sooo many teks that you should not have to ask us how much liquid is needed for as speficic amount of MHRB. But to do your homework for you, Marsofold's tek (which is A/B and not STB but anyway) specifies 15 ml of water for every gram of MHRB, and also 1 gram of lye for every gram of MHRB.

The amount of naphtha used in any situation should be something like a quarter or a third of the amount of water, maximum but that is again acid/base tek talk. There is specifically no need for anything more than what is necessary to dissolve your converted DMT. Typically the naphtha is able to dissolve enough DMT (freebase), so that around of a third of the amount of water should be fine. But the less naphtha you use the better you need to shake stuff around and the longer you should wait between your steps.
 
Ok, I just mixed 55 grams of food grade Red Devil lye with 850 ml of distilled water gradually and waited till the reaction cooled down, then mixed in precisely 50 grams of mimosa hostilis root bark. I used 850 ml of water and 55 grams of lye instead of 50 grams of lye and 750 ml of water because it was in powdered form. I shook it vigorously in the clean glass jar this was in. I'll wait about 12 or so hours and then continue.

SO FAR, am I doing things right?
 
Actually I added 13 more grams of lye and 50 ml more water just to make sure most/all the alkaloids extracted. I'll be vigorously shaking the mimosa/water/lye solution 2-3 times an hour for 12 hours. Then I'll move on to the naptha adding step. Does this sound wise?
 
OP -> It looks good to me. 12 hours soak is ENOUGH though, but propably wont hurt.
I can't see, based on what you wrote, what could result in a low purity product unless the bark is of very poor quality.


Actually I added 13 more grams of lye and 50 ml more water just to make sure most/all the alkaloids extracted.
Click to expand...

-The NaOH(lye) aren't extracting anything. Just turning the DMT-salts into freebase which is soluable in naphta for instance.

If I use too much naptha to add to the lye/water/mimosa solution, will that somehow lower the amount of DMT absorbed in the naptha when I extract it, damage the DMT, etc.? Or will it simply make it so that I have to wait longer for the naptha to evaporate or precipitate, if I go the freeze-precipitation route?
Click to expand...

-There are a maximum for how much DMT freebase(or other alkaloid) a solvent(naphta) can hold. Hotter solvents can hold more alkaloids than cold ones. You can heat either the naphta in waterbath or heat the full naphta/NaOH/MHRB-solution.
Therefore the minimum 3 extractions, starting with the first as the biggest one and the last one with a smaller amount of solvent.

You can't use too much solvent, but there wouldn't be any idea using more than necessary as it will take longer to evaporate or freeze-precipitate :)
 
Annnddd of course, the fucking glass jar fucking BROKE and ALL the mimosa/lye/water solution went ALL OVER THE KITCHEN. Now I have NO MORE MIMOSA LEFT. FUCK.

They should warn you to NEVER USE GLASS for this shit. It's gonna be a stainless steel stock pot from NOW ON.
 
If I had followed this thread more closely then yeah I could have mentioned that normal glass does not tolerate temperature differences which are bound to arise when you really heat and boil stuff. Sooner or later there will be a little too fast cooling down to the ambient environment and bang, indeed the stuff breaks. I personally use lab glass which IS resistant to heat / heat differences.
But yes stainless steel pot works too.

Sorry the info is too late for you man! Happens to the best of us, happened to me in my GHB days.
 
I'd use an inch or two of naptha. I've kinda always just guessed. But IME the more naptha the more likely you won't accidentally suck up some root bark/lye. And the naptha will get evaporated or separated out anyway.
 
Vader said:
Is stainless steel OK to use with strong bases?
Click to expand...

Yeah - I once used an aluminium stockpot and went back 10 minutes later to find, to my horror, the stockpot smoking. Eventually ate it's way through the bottom. Stainless steel or nothing :)
 
Adding all that lye is probably what caused your jar to break also. Adding lye to water causes a lot of heat to be generated. The more lye you use, the more heat.

If you add the lye in slowly a bit at a time you can avoid some of the problems associated with all the heat (jar breaking, potential degradation, formation of a frothy layer, etc.)
 
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