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DMT Extraction (Archived Scraps)

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Oh and I recommend against using fans to dry your solvent, as they have a tendancy to blow all kinds of nasty dust/lint particles into your product and they get caught in the goo.
 
semi-on-topic: could one theoretically use an acid other than muriatic, such as vinegar, for extracting DMT (i say theoretically, because who on earth would want to break the law?! :))
 
could one theoretically use an acid other than muriatic, such as vinegar, for extracting DMT
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I really don't know - but why? When you can get muriatic acid so easily and cheaply at the hardware store... Muriatic acid, Ronsonol naptha (in the yellow bottle), Mimosa Hostilis rootbark - that's what I always use, and I've had EXCELLENT results, many times. Theoretically.
 
Vinegar's easier to work with, I think, than the muriatic acid as it won't concentrate the way the acid will if you have to cook down the tea after the first step. I could be wrong.
 
as it won't concentrate the way the acid will if you have to cook down the tea after the first step
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What are you talking about? Tea? We're talking about DMT extraction here... I don't know of any "cooking down" in the DMT extraction process.
Can you elaborate?
 
Vinegar works fine for the acidification process, but you have to be careful because it will create an acetic acid instead of a hydrochloric acid and might have problems with certain defatting solvents/bases later in the process. I used acetic acid the last time I made an extraction and it came out a lot gummier and less crystally than my previous Hcl extractions. It kinda sucks, because its a lot easier to use vinegar, smells a lot better, and produces a milder smoke. But dissapointment is all a part of life, as most of us have learned.

There was an article on the old dmt world message board about which chemicals are incompatible with dmt acetic acid, but the lycaeum appears to be down for the moment so I cant do a seach for it. Any chemists in here have any ideas?
 
I used acetic acid the last time I made an extraction and it came out a lot gummier and less crystally than my previous Hcl extractions.
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Thanks for the info - I was curious about that.
That for me is enough reason to definitely NOT use vinegar. When I use muriatic acid, the end product has always come out VERY clean, and not gummy at all. Smoke is kinda harsh though, but not terrible.
Out of curiousity, what did you use to basify, and what non-polar solvent did you use?
Just seeing if my process can be perfected any more :)
 
I use technical grade xylene to defat (with a wash of the extraction solvent to get rid of leftover xylene), acs grade dichloromethane (methylene chloride) for my extraction solvent (I would never, under any circumstances, use anything else), and red devil lye as my base. Be careful with lye, my first time I didn't vent my seperatory funnel enough during the extraction phase and the highly basic solution blew up all over me. Luckily I was wearing lots of protective lab gear (goggles, rubber apron, and those fat rubber gloves people use when handling potent acids) and I just so happened to have a bottle of vinegar next to me to "shower" in. I still have a scar from that experience (it looks like a funny colored patch of skin).
 
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Ronsonol naptha does not evaporate clean... just be careful with what you put in your lungs, because it is hard to tell what residuals are left in the final product. you could be giving yourself lifetime lung damage, especially if you do a polar wash with NaOH.
 
Skrylla:


yah, you know, boiling the bark in vinegar or otherwise acidified water makes tea. Sometimes you have a lot of it and you want to evaporate some of the liquid in that tea off before you add the xylene, turpentine, or whatever you're using for your defatting. Just makes it more manageable, all depends on how large of a sep. funnel you're using...
 
extracting DMT from Mimosa Hostilis

Just curious, I was reading how to do this, and I'm saying I'm doing it, but I'm curious to know. I was wondering for those who know a little bit about the extratction process... Is it possible when extracting it from mimoso hostilis, during the actual extratction, to not let it it sit for a week, then filter through cotton, then have it sit another week, and do it again. (3 times total, first one 24 hours), and still get a good freebase product in the end? Maybe 24 hours, then 3 days, and 3 days?. Thanks.
 
The reason they recommend you soak so long is to make sure you get it all. If you don't soak as long it should work but you may get a lower yield.
 
soaking the bark longer than 45 min. for each extraction (each time, soak strain, repeat) is not needed. soaking for days is not necessary at all, but it really does depend on how powdered the bark is...

also if you follow a guide make sure to use soma's guide and not QT's because he leaves out some very important steps...

also look at my posts in this thread:

http://www.bluelight.ru/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=131583

edit: ALSO make sure before you start the extraction you know how everything works and why you need to do what the guides tell you so you are not just 'following' what they say to do. understand first, extract second.
 
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^^^ Exactly what steps does QT's guide leave out? I've had nothing but great success using that guide. Even my first extraction went perfectly, following that guide (actually my first try was probably one of the cleanest extracts I've done).
 
QT's just skims over defatting, and leaves out recrystalization completely. I'm not too sure about the others. I've looked at both Soma's and QT's, and Soma's really does look more thorough.
 
i posted this in the other thread...

well, there are a few reasons why i would advise on not using the QT method (but it still can be used as a reference because it does have pictures along with easy to follow steps)

first, it recommends using muratic acid and ronsonol naptha, which if you plan on boiling down the volume of the DMT solution it can tend to concentrate to high levels, unlike vinegar which has a lower boiling point causing it to evaporate at lower temperatures. also, like i said earlier, ronsonol naptha does not evaporate clean so you could be 'contaminating' your DMT with other shit you don't want. just let some evaporate on a dish and see if it leaves behind any residue if you are unsure.

second, it tells you to use a pH of 2 water when extracting, which i do not advise using since DMT ionizes at a pH of 6. (a pH of 4-6 should work fine). the lower pH you use than 6, the more other shit in the bark you will carry over with you, which, well, you just don't want, hahaha. (be sure when reducing the volume to not have it too hot)

third, the ridiculous time it recommends for the salt extraction (7 days for 2nd and 3rd) which is not necessary. you can do each of them in under an hour (45 min. for each), but it does really depend on how powdered the bark is (the less powdered it is, the more time it takes for the acidic solution to penetrate the fibers) or how warm the solution is.

finally, it doesn't explain the process of washing or recrystalization which are actually very important steps if you plan on having relatively pure and 'clean' DMT without other left over residuals from the earlier steps.

like i said, just be careful with extraction procedures like this if SWIM plans on putting the product into his lungs, because you really can never be sure what is left over in the final product if you choose to skip the washing and recrystalization steps.
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Skrilla said:
^^^ Exactly what steps does QT's guide leave out? I've had nothing but great success using that guide. Even my first extraction went perfectly, following that guide (actually my first try was probably one of the cleanest extracts I've done).
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Following QT's extraction you will not have done a non-polar wash just before crystallization which, if you used sodium hydroxide as your base, will leave some hydroxides in your product. These are bad for your lungs and for your pipe.

Another step which QT left out is the fridge decant, put the extraction from the plant material in the fridge for a few hours and get rid of the gunk that falls to the bottom.

With QT's extraction one leaves the extractions from the plant matter sit for far too long and this will cause more materials which are not wanted in the extractions which can force you to do more defatting then usually is needed. You really do not need to let the extraction from the plant material sit longer then 30-40 minutes if you are using boiling, or close to, acidic water.(pH 2-3 is good, 1 is a bit too low)
 
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"first, it recommends using muratic acid and ronsonol naptha, which if you plan on boiling down the volume of the DMT solution it can tend to concentrate to high levels"

I have heard this is not a problem at all, I know for a fact that extractions done using HCl can be reduced without a problem.
Ronsonol lighter fluid is a very bad thing to use as a non-polar solvent, VM&P naptha works much better.

If you preform enough polar and non-polar washes then recrystalization is usually not needed unless you are looking for an ultra-pure product.
 
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thanks. I'm taking into account everything peopel have said, and am still contemplating which guidelines to follow. Last question, could I really get away with using lemon juice or vinegar instead of muratic acid initially?
 
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