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[MEGA] 2010-2011 Community Growing advice, tips, tricks, & experiences

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Yeah, you know you're wrong so you resort to just calling troll (it's all you can do since you can't argue the facts). You were willing to tell me how I was wrong etc. before but now you decide my attack on your ignorance is trolling. Nice.
 
Well thank you for the complement. Nice of you I suppose.

But, normally you would actually be right, but I have to admit you were the one that made me angry. I got really pissed off and perhaps shouldn't have insulted you like I did.

No hard feelings?
 
lol. Maybe it's time for a spliff. I'm about to have some Paradise Nebula that I cultivated myself. It's very potent so that 1/4 of a spliff gets me stoned but it causes quite a bit of anxiety for the first 1/2 hour. However, after that it's VERY nice. The next strain I'm growing is Barney's Farm Blue Cheese. I also got various freebies but the Blue Cheese should be the nicest. It's an indica dominant strain, unlike the Nebula which is a sativa dominant (which accounts for the anxiety).
 
dude I tried to be nice and explain. The coffee isnt for pH, its for nutrients. N and many secondary and trace. I dont care anymore, to each his own. I am outa here, like they say.. this thread aint big enough for the two of us, eat a dick AE.
 
subopm420 said:
dude I tried to be nice and explain. The coffee isnt for pH, its for nutrients. N and many secondary and trace. I dont care anymore, to each his own. I am outa here, like they say.. this thread aint big enough for the two of us, eat a dick AE.
Click to expand...

If you want many secondary and trace elements use rockdust. It doesn't matter whether you're adding it for the pH. The coffee will have an effect on the pH regardless of your intentions. This is why people sometimes use coffee grounds etc to lower the pH. The coffee doesn't care why you're adding it. Look up 'coffee', 'acid' and 'ph' on Google. It seems like an odd way to add trace elements.

Seriously, why don't you go and look on Google. A cup of coffee itself even has a pH of 4.9-5.2. Coffee grounds are also acidic obviously, you twit.

Oh, and go sit on a dick. You should learn to take constructive criticism ffs.
 
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Most nutrients are not at a PH of 7.0. In fact, a lot of people use their nutrients as a double for their "ph down". Kills two birds with one stone. Pretty simple if you ask me.
 
Well if the nutrients on their own were sufficient in every case they wouldn't use the coffee grounds. The compost itself is able to buffer organic nutrients but when you start messing around using coffee grounds it unnecessarily complicates things for the little secondary nutrients it adds. Rockdust is FAR superior in every way. It will drive the soil foodweb numbers up, helping to conver the organic nutrients into plant available forms. The foodweb has many other benefits such as keeping pests at bay etc. Rockdust is almost a miracle when you see the results it can give.
 
^ Rockdust does sound nice, but you DO realize it took you a whole page to come to your conclusion about liking rockdust, right?

constructive criticism: next time just come out and say "i prefer rockdust to coffee because of x y and z", instead of going on about how twitty twatty everyone here is.
 
No, you dont understand. It didn't take a whole page to come to that 'conclusion'. My POINT was that he doesn't need to use coffee and shouldn't, not that he should use rockdust instead. Rockdust was just a helpful suggested alternative, if he MUST add something. It isn't my responsibility to offer an alternative when I say the addition of the coffee isn't an idea. If he wants an alternative he can do the research himself.

You say rockdust 'sounds nice' which suggests you didn't know what it is. If you didn't know what rockdust is then it just proves my strong suspicion that you are a novice and don't really have much knowledge of growing.

Anyway I'm sick of having to explain everything to you when you should really be finding out all of this yourself. It's getting really frustrating. If you want to learn more about growing I suggest you go to a site dedicated to cannabis cultivation. This is what I usually frequent.

Oh yes, I wanted to add that I have been using rockdust far before this discussion started. So I came to no conclusion as you say.
 
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dude nobody invited you to the party so if you dont like it leave.

You act like there is one way to grow cannabis; if I dont do this exact organic method I am wrong. Dude guess what? There's more than one way to skin a cat. Thanks for the heds up on rockdust...... Its expensive though....... I use azomite in my compost, use molasses in teas, and coffee in soil mixes or brews. Everything I could ever want for like $20 extra dollars every three or four months.

So... basically I want to thank you for googling, reading, and then presenting me with a semi-viable alternative to my method. As far as that old dead horse... always tied to, it seems, any organic soil debate.. I will try and explain the idea once more. There are things we can do as growers to help ensure sustainable soils and healthy, bud producing plants. Some of these things include composting organic materials into humus, which can then be used as a soil base as well as continually releasing nutrients over a very long time. We can also customize our mediums and fine tune things in order to ensure premier growing growing conditions; this includes adding things like dolemite lime, kelp and alfalfa meals, bone and blood meal (if thats your game), guanos, etc. These will again provide large amounts of crude nutrients over a very long time period to the living soil, which then in turn makes them available to the help plant. Are you following so far?

Every one of those things mentioned above affect pH in some way, yet in order to produce an extremely active soil we add them. We add dolemite lime in order to give additional buffering capacity and ofter grow in peat or compost mediums, which can be notoriously acidic. Kelp meal teas, molasses, nettle tea, and blood meal are all acidic, but again, with dolemite lime and the natural processes of aerobic bacteria any pH issues are mitigated, allowing the benefit of the organic foodstuffs without affecting the soil... Or turning it 'sour' as you so aptly put it (just for the record man, cause this really got me... If you want to sound smart and call people names try atleast looking up soome obscure chemical process whereby soils acidifies then come here and post it). I simply choose to use coffee in my mix.

Finally, after we have composted our organics to make humus, added a little extra for spice and long term nutrients we get to teas, brews, and top dressings. Teas are organic materials 'steeped' in water for a period of time then strained and fed to plants in diluted solutions. There are a number of ways to make teas so dont jump on be because I only mentioned one. Kelp meal, alfalfa meal, guanos, etc are all great for making teas. Different ingredients for different times, although I might add you should be able to pretty much sustain your plants through veg with the soil mix. Blackstrap molasses is a great amendment for any tea (about 1 tsp per gallon of mix). Provides P and many many trace elements. Costs maybe $3 at Whole Foods. Brews are much like teas, but simmered on the stove or grill for an extended period. Top dressings are like the mulch we put on top of flower beds, it provides a good moisture retaining top layer as well as slowly releasing nutrients with every watering. Its a really nice thing to have a 'just add water' soil recepe, but in practice it is good to have options.

We do all this to keep a great soil great, never having to buy bags of soil is a good thing. When we pull the last crop the next can practically be planted directly in the same soil and here we go again. For a little less than a couple hours a week and $50 dollars a year maybe.. we can keep our gardens green and our soil fresh. And ourselves high.

Also, rockdust is comprised of a good percentage of dolemite lime, or its equivilent. Be careful when you use it not to over do the DL or your soil will hover at a very exact and boring 7.0- 7.2 range.

Stop with the personal attacks and rediculous generalizations. No one likes to hear they are idiots for doing something they know works. If you havent a leg to stand on or any real experience to back up your claims, then fine, keep it up and I will just stop posting here until people get tired of you. If you do then great, post your soil mix and nute regiment. What you are using and how you compost.

<snip>
 
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stop the pointless arguing. i wish people would realize you don't have to reply back and defend yourself to somebody on a forum board.

this thread is full of helpful information, don't clutter it up with your nonsense.

carry on
 
subopm420 said:
dude nobody invited you to the party so if you dont like it leave.

You act like there is one way to grow cannabis; if I dont do this exact organic method I am wrong. Dude guess what? There's more than one way to skin a cat. Thanks for the heds up on rockdust...... Its expensive though....... I use azomite in my compost, use molasses in teas, and coffee in soil mixes or brews. Everything I could ever want for like $20 extra dollars every three or four months.

So... basically I want to thank you for googling, reading, and then presenting me with a semi-viable alternative to my method. As far as that old dead horse... always tied to, it seems, any organic soil debate.. I will try and explain the idea once more. There are things we can do as growers to help ensure sustainable soils and healthy, bud producing plants. Some of these things include composting organic materials into humus, which can then be used as a soil base as well as continually releasing nutrients over a very long time. We can also customize our mediums and fine tune things in order to ensure premier growing growing conditions; this includes adding things like dolemite lime, kelp and alfalfa meals, bone and blood meal (if thats your game), guanos, etc. These will again provide large amounts of crude nutrients over a very long time period to the living soil, which then in turn makes them available to the help plant. Are you following so far?

Every one of those things mentioned above affect pH in some way, yet in order to produce an extremely active soil we add them. We add dolemite lime in order to give additional buffering capacity and ofter grow in peat or compost mediums, which can be notoriously acidic. Kelp meal teas, molasses, nettle tea, and blood meal are all acidic, but again, with dolemite lime and the natural processes of aerobic bacteria any pH issues are mitigated, allowing the benefit of the organic foodstuffs without affecting the soil... Or turning it 'sour' as you so aptly put it (just for the record man, cause this really got me... If you want to sound smart and call people names try atleast looking up soome obscure chemical process whereby soils acidifies then come here and post it). I simply choose to use coffee in my mix.

Finally, after we have composted our organics to make humus, added a little extra for spice and long term nutrients we get to teas, brews, and top dressings. Teas are organic materials 'steeped' in water for a period of time then strained and fed to plants in diluted solutions. There are a number of ways to make teas so dont jump on be because I only mentioned one. Kelp meal, alfalfa meal, guanos, etc are all great for making teas. Different ingredients for different times, although I might add you should be able to pretty much sustain your plants through veg with the soil mix. Blackstrap molasses is a great amendment for any tea (about 1 tsp per gallon of mix). Provides P and many many trace elements. Costs maybe $3 at Whole Foods. Brews are much like teas, but simmered on the stove or grill for an extended period. Top dressings are like the mulch we put on top of flower beds, it provides a good moisture retaining top layer as well as slowly releasing nutrients with every watering. Its a really nice thing to have a 'just add water' soil recepe, but in practice it is good to have options.

We do all this to keep a great soil great, never having to buy bags of soil is a good thing. When we pull the last crop the next can practically be planted directly in the same soil and here we go again. For a little less than a couple hours a week and $50 dollars a year maybe.. we can keep our gardens green and our soil fresh. And ourselves high.

Also, rockdust is comprised of a good percentage of dolemite lime, or its equivilent. Be careful when you use it not to over do the DL or your soil will hover at a very exact and boring 7.0- 7.2 range.

Stop with the personal attacks and rediculous generalizations. No one likes to hear they are idiots for doing something they know works. If you havent a leg to stand on or any real experience to back up your claims, then fine, keep it up and I will just stop posting here until people get tired of you. If you do then great, post your soil mix and nute regiment. What you are using and how you compost.

<snip>
Click to expand...

You are now on ignore. Sorry but I couldn't be bothered to read your ramblings.

Thanks for the advise Roose.
 
I wanted to say just, earlier in the thread there was talk of adding composted organic matter to potting compost (the reply I made earlier in the thread to thingamabob). Garden compost should not be added to container mediums as it contains pests. You could sterilize it but this would defeat the whole point of using it. It really should only be added to outdoor soil crops as a mulch (you could dig it in but this isn't necessary).
 
*passes out blunts*
I love you guys, now calm down, stop arguing and go smoke one.

hah.
Anyways, everything seems to be fine, plants have stopped burning indoor, outdoor , plants growth seems very slow, but, its alive and well , producing leaves that are , I guess "normal"

Indoor I think Im going to grow for another 1-3 weeks veg, then , by that time I should have a digital ballast and HPS, and should be able to flower with HPS.
Still dont know if I should go for a 600 or a 400, Im thinking 600 just to be safe and get a little more growth outta those 200 watts.

I should be able to do something ventilation, just need a few ideas, I've got 800$ to spend on all of it, nutes, containers, lights, etc.

Get my card in less than two weeks, woohoo.


Im going to do a complete organic and a complete soil grow next time around,
Maybe then we can settle this debate , eh..? Eh....?

lol
Thanks for all the good info on here, I started back on page one, lots of good stuff I forgot (Oh my short term memory where have you gone)
Thanks all for helping, giving info, and all of the help / advice, etc.
 
Artificial Emotion said:
So? What's the point in adding it? Why not add a bit of pizza if it grows? You don't because it's pointless and even counterproductive.

The point of the post was to get people to stop this pointless, counterproductive practise.

Like crocking at the bottom of the pot, it shouldn't be done!

Prelude are you using mineral salt fertlizer? If so, stop and flush to get rid of salts in the medium and then continue to water with plain water. The nutrient burn (which is what you have) will go eventually. I'm not sure why you are continuining to fertilize a burnt plant, unless I'm mistaken.

For the record I have grown in soil and I haven't had any deficiencies or burning problems or anything. I hit 1.3 grams per watt, which seems very difficult for a lot of people to achieve. Most can't even hit 1g/W. I'm in NFT and passive coco hydro at the moment.
Click to expand...


No, Not using mineral salt ferts.
I dont need to flush my plant, its doing alright as of now.(I flushed the plant a week or two ago, I believe I posted that somewhere)
and Im not continuing to nute the plant, Ive mentioned numerous times Ive stopped nuting, (I will continue not nuting until the plant shows signs that it needs nutes)

And as to , "Whats the point of adding it" , well, some people feel different compounds get different results, if you like the way you grow, hey congratulations, you found a way to grow, it doesnt mean that thats going to be the BEST way for EVERYONE.

Please, if you want to give suggestions , feel free, but don't try to tell everyone else their wrong just for doing things differently.

As for your 'pizza' analogy, well, I don't know if you quite caught on yet, but, everyone here is giving different suggestions and different mixes of soil, nutes, you dont need to force yours upon us, yes, you may have great , amazing , perfect plants, (if that does so happen to be the case) you've probably grown more than just a 'few'
(constructive criticism, we are all trying to help each other here)


Thank you for the info you have posted, and the advice you have given, hopefully it will be of use (Im sure it will be).
But please, just be a little less harsh.

I dont think people like being told their wrong, especially if what they are doing isn't producing negative results. Everyone has different ways of doing things, and I do appreciate everyone who has shared their way of how things are done, I plan on trying quite a few different grows just to see what yeilds the best for me, and whats best for me, might be completely different for someone in a different country with different climates and different strains of plant.

Do you use the strands of the cocoir or do you just use the dust ?

But again, thank you all.
 
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