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[MEGA] Making hash/kief/cannabis extracts

Hoes call me santa said:
A little update. Turns out I couldn't really find a Canada based online seller for quality butane and somehow nobody will ship it from the US, even by ground... So after calling 15 cigar shops in the area one of them tells me they have colibri. So I head there, after 1 hour of public transports I get there, but the Colibri they had wasn't the one I was used to (this can : http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41V1qO6xxYL._SS500_.jpg. Is it similar to the other can?)

Since I wasn't so sure it was as good, I ended buying the London brand which had the "near zero impurities" logo on it. I did my bho extraction earlier this evening with 31 grams of little buds, the strain is unknown, probably a C+/B-, pretty sure it's grown outdoor, has a skunky smell. I yielded 2,2 grams of some "dark here and kind of gold there" oil, much better than before. After I mixed it it got to a really more brown/gold color. The taste resembles a lot it's smell, which is a great improvement. Also, I notice way less coughing after my hit than with my past oil experience.

Thanks for the advises again. This is the butane I used http://www.a51.ca/skateshop/published/publicdata/A51CAA51WEBASYST/attachments/SC/products_pictures/16728-web_enl.jpg. If what I read is true, ends up it is made by colibri haha.

Also the high is way better ;) Even though I hadn't dabbed for a week or so and smoked really less these days, 1 little dab hit me good :)
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I actually just washed out a few empty nug jars with 91% Isopropyl alcohol, I think if it had been a higher alcohol content, it would not have taken like 4 hours to dry. But what the hell, worth the wait. Kinda wish I had smoked it first, and then cleaned my pipes with it, instead of the other way around! Amount smoked with low tolerance was prob on par with earwax, off of reynolds wrap. Needless to say, I haven't felt this good from anything in a while. I've had BHO, awesome stuff, but never made it.

I have an idea, and I already know it's got some flaws, but here it is: what if you could immediately determine the value of any given amount of dried cannabis by performing a thorough extraction, vacuum all the solvent out, and weight the ratio of raw cannabis to oil extracted from it? I dunno how well this would work, or if it's realistic at all, but say you didn't want to have to inspect the whole bag nug by nug. There might even be a way to recapture and reuse the solvent during the vacuum process. The leftover plant material would be rendered useless I guess, but who cares? If there's any value left in it, it could be cooked into food (assuming it was safe to consume) I mean, with small enough bags, it wouldn't be hard to inspect the nugs, but why not just extract it right there, sample the extract, and give it a value based on average oil contents? Is "appraiser" the right word? If I were an "appraiser" or "value giver" or "source-finder" of certain essential oils, that is how I would do it (obviously significantly more technical, (fractioning) and I'm naive, no idea how that works anyways, don't even know if it operates on that kind of scale. but the point would be to make sure the buyer got 100% of what he paid for, no BS)
 
isomizer hash oil

i recently purchased an isomizer for producing hash oil, i am a medical patient and i need some thing for when my medicine runs out. i read on one of the forums some directions someone posted but the one i have have power settings 1 through 10 and i do not know which setting i should use or how the settings even work. if anyone knows it would help greatly.
 
Moved to cannabis discussion, any info on the brand and model of you isomizer?
Also, I really think you mean extractor or vaporizer but I could be wrong.
 
Doesn't isomerization require at least one reagent step and use of multiple solvents? I too am interested in how this "isomerizer" works.

ebola
 
the instructions i got say i can use a variety of solvents such as, grain alcohol, everclear, or isopropyl not all tho. it has a dial with setting from 1 to 10 tho. and it doesnt say anything like that in the instructions.
 
Finally a picture of my bho :) I used about 1g of it and was high pretty much all-day and everyday for a bit more than a week, around 1,3g left in there!

NSFW:
dscn2480v.jpg
 
^^ Tip - Buy a pyrex baking tray for $10 to use as you're evaporation tray. It will spread way thinner and cure extremely quickly. By the way, when you scrape it off the tray with a razor blade it should flake into shardy powder. If it's gooey it isn't cured. I'll post a picture of some of my amber flake when i return home on the 30th.

Otherwise nice job, amberish color means you're making damn pure product. Golden BHO is crap and i wouldn't even smoke it. Also, if it "sparkles" that means your smoking butane... amber flake won't sparkle it just melts and disappears.
 
Thanks, it's good to hear some feedback. That's only my dish where I put the oil after my extraction, I have a pyrex dish (2 in fact) to do my extraction in, it was more spread out in that pyrex dish.

Please do post your picture when you can, cause I don't really get what you means by sparkles, I took the picture under direct sunlight, but the bho reflects light if i'm putting it in front of my computer screen if that's what you meant.

Also what is your curing process? It was gooey/liquidy after my curing of 10-12 minutes in a hot bath.
 
cannabno extractionids

I took the class at Oaksterdam University. I need help with some questions. When extracting cannabinoids utilizing butter or vegetable oil use ? a) 60-120 micron screens b) Heat c) Sieving d) all the above.
 
iso thc extraction evap help

I have about a pound and a half of leaves and shake soaking in mason jars for a week now, now thats a lot of alcohol, and after testing one jar it took 5 hours to evap with a space heater, and I think it got too hot and destroyed most of the thc, so

1:easiest, non destructive way to evap large ammounts of iso alcohol
2:is the final product supposed to look like resi
3:should the final product smell like plant material
4:should the oil easily start on fire

this is my first time trying extraction, so answers would be greatly appreaciated!
 
Hoes call me santa said:
Thanks, it's good to hear some feedback. That's only my dish where I put the oil after my extraction, I have a pyrex dish (2 in fact) to do my extraction in, it was more spread out in that pyrex dish.

Please do post your picture when you can, cause I don't really get what you means by sparkles, I took the picture under direct sunlight, but the bho reflects light if i'm putting it in front of my computer screen if that's what you meant.

Also what is your curing process? It was gooey/liquidy after my curing of 10-12 minutes in a hot bath.
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If it literally crackles and "sparkles" like a sparkler when you smoke it via direct flame, that's solvent burning while you smoke it.

If i don't feel like waiting I cure it under a flouresent(low power) grow light for 4-6 hours depending on how thin of a layer I have. Even if it's initially golden, it WILL turn amberish red once it really starts curing, though with proper filtration it will come out either white or amber already depending on how mature the plant used as precursor was. (look at a growing pot plant with a magna find glass, most growers will harvest AFTER the trichomes turn amber inside - hence i have concluded that when i Blow white oil it's only because the trichomes were premature). Though Amber doesn't mean it's ready to smoke, i refuse to smoke "gooey" oil. It's only gooey because there is still solvent, if you don't believe me get it lab tested. Cured oil will flake off the tray into a powder when scraped with a razor blade.

Proper curing without the use of a light takes anywhere from 3 days to 3 weeks. Technically when i use a light i loose some potency but not enough that i notice..

Either way i plan on building a box that circulates warm air through with no light in order to cure my trays, should work wonderfully when i get around to it. A food dehydrator would probably work if it were large enough for my evaporation trays.

Here's an old picture from my phone. It's sparkling figuratively from the flash on my phone but it melts down and disappears when smoked with direct flame, no "fireworks." I'll post a picture of some more recent product when i get home tomorrow. Not sure how well you can tell in this picture but this is powdery flakes, not sticky or gooey and it won't melt down at room temp - it will lab test solvent free.
NSFW:
6gcyfk.jpg
 
Well clearly you did no research before attempting this... By the way there is a thread for these questions so I'll reports and have the mods deal with moving it - but in the mean time I'll help you out since we all have to start somewhere...

You're first problem was letting it soak for a week. You're going to have a dark green to black product now, but don't worry it isn't ruined. (except for the space heater crap..)

Obviously your second problem was the space heater.

For an ISO extract you want to expose the plant material for 12-18 seconds. Past 20 seconds and your starting to get chlorophyl. Litterally, thats all it takes. Use 99% ISO if you don't know how to make it anhydrous.

pour it through filter paper after your quick wash into an evaporation tray. Now boil a pot of water. Once it's boiling, take the pot either into a SEPERATE, well ventilated room or preferably outside and fill an EMPTY evaporation try with said boiling water. Place try of ISO in the tray of now slightly less than boiling water. Replace the water every 15 minutes or so with new boiling water, and you should evaporate quite a large amount of ISO within 30 mins. Further cure this under a flouresant light if you can't wait to smoke it, or put it in a closet for 3 days if you can manage. You do this once there is clearly nothing but the oil left by the way, don't start curing until all the iso is gone via the hot bath.

Good luck next time. :)

You can still smoke the stuff you made by the way, it just won't taste very good or look very good. Also, personally i would't smoke any oil until it flakes off the tray like powder with a razor blade. Goop = solvent. Oil cures flaky not sticky..
 
^^ LOL. I wouldn't use any of those methods, unless sieving somehow refers to using filter paper. the 120 mic screen is letting plant material through and the 60 mic screen is letting broken trichomes through. I guess for thicker fatty solvents cheesecloth would be best. But I'm picky, most people don't give a fuck - let alone even know about "broken" trichomes.

While on the topic of micron screen sizes, a 90 bag will catch full unbroken trichomes. Below that they are broken and above that there is plant material, but this is only relevant for those who have full bubble bag kits.(totally IRRELEVANT when making oil or canna butter - only useful knowledge for making hash. Just thought i would share)
 
thanks for the info! I actually did quite a lot of research but i dont have access to PVC piping and butane is quite expensive. I had read the longer it soaked the more thc was extracted from it, but that could've been for acetate...either way now i know, next year ill know what to do ha
 
Of course with a quick wash you won't get every last bit of THC, so why not do a second longer wash and get yourself two different grades? I always use my plant material for 3-4 different types of extractions before getting rid of it.

Though you would be surprised, a quick wash will yield the same as a proper BHO run.
 
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