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☛ Official ☚ The Big & Dandy Mescaline Extraction thread

I am sad to report that going STB with Peruvian Torch resulted in an emulsified nightmare.
So...
alcohol extraction then STB is what I'm thinking. Thoughts?

EDIT: Thinking about it, I presume that the alcohol extract isn't entirely water soluble, so perhaps alcohol extraction and then A/B?
 
^ Me and a friend once did a successful 99% Isopropyl extraction from Peruvian Torch.

Is your cactus dry or wet?

We used dry. The dried cactus was pulverized into a fine powder, the powder was divided evenly between two standard-size tall mason jars. The jars were then filled to the top with 99% IPA. The mixture was left to sit for 10 days, violently shaking each jar a minimum of 3 times a day.

After 10 days, the mixture had become a dark green/black color. After leaving the jars untouched for a day to settle, the IPA was siphoned off as far as possible. The collected IPA was placed into a glass baking tray for evaporation.

A second IPA extraction was performed on the remaining cactus goo, and then also siphoned off into the collection tray.

With heat, time, and fresh air, the IPA was evaporated from the baking tray (took a few days and some fan positioning). What was left was a dark green/black tar, which was scraped up with a razor blade and further dried, then put into storage.

The potency of the tar was about the same potency as one would get from making a boiled tea, i.e. minimal yield was lost.

I highly recommend IPA extractions if:
1. You can acquire 99% IPA
2. You have the time and patience to put a week or two into the extraction.
 
My cactus is dry. I don't particularly want to finish with a brown goo, but rather use it as the raw material in an A/B or STB extraction.
 
Yeah I saw that, just figured I'd post a quick tek for anyone interested in IPA extraction.

I would imagine the goo would be a suitable starting point for STB, but I've never tried.
The actual material you'd be performing the STB on would be far, far, far less than if you had just used dried cactus.
 
Vader said:
I am sad to report that going STB with Peruvian Torch resulted in an emulsified nightmare.
Click to expand...

if its a mess, you need to add more base and wait until the solution slacks

the goo should be a watery consistency before continuing
 
^Already stuck in another ten grams, shall I just keep going until it sorts itself out?
 
Vader said:
^Already stuck in another ten grams, shall I just keep going until it sorts itself out?
Click to expand...

if you are using lye, about 1:1 lye to dry cacti. You cant use too much base, and it will liquefy the cacti sludge and break emulsion
what np solvent are you using?

some np may be permanently lost in the slurry now... especially when using dry flesh its a good idea to let the mix set before adding solvent to prevent solvent from re hydrating any flesh and getting stuck in the mix

next time, dont add any np until the mix slacks(12-48hrs if based properly)

to fix emulsion:
time, heat, base, water
 
I started out with 1:1 cactus to lye ratio, it's about 2:3 now and still no better. I'm using xylene.
next time, dont add any np until the mix slacks(12-48hrs if based properly)
Click to expand...
I left it for about 24 hours, but I'll leave it longer next time.
to fix emulsion:
time, heat, base, water
Click to expand...
Thanks, will report back.
...
EDIT: Heat and time did the trick. Thanks for the help.
 
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Mescaline & Extraction

Posted in Aus Drug Discussion but thought it may get more exposure here

Hey all,

Did a search and not much came up that i could find.

First question is obviously to those who've tried it, what's it like. I've read thousands of experience reports all saying it is a fantastic substance, many claiming to be better than LSD/Mushrooms. I've seen a common trend where people say its like MDMA but a trip, which doesn't surprise me given the chemical relatedness MDMA has with Mescaline.

I did a thorough A/B extraction on 2ft of San Pedro i had recently (picture below) and am very happy with the outcome, both yield and quality.

Cactus:
305528326img0016.jpg


Mescaline yield:
imag01291.jpg


Has anyone else extracted it like this, and if so, did it turn out a similar colour/consistency?

I've seen tek's where you have to drink copious amounts of green liquid that tastes horrendous, so i opted for a very simple A/B extraction and was ecstastic with the result, especially seeing as i only used 2ft (apparently 1ft is 1 dose equiv to 500mg Mescaline). I'd say i'd easily have 4-5 doses here, and thats after several Acetone washes so its purity should be fairly high.

Cheers.
 
Briefly (no quantities here):

1. Fill jugs with "Basic water" created using Sodium Hydroxide.
2. Add cactus material, i used wet but ideally it should be dry.
3. Add Xylene
4. Sit over night, the Xylene will sit above the basic water and cactus material.
5. Following day, use a turkey baster to remove the Xylene, leaving the settled plant matter, then add Xylene to another jug with around a pint of water and 5-6 drops of Hydrochloric acid.
6. Place in freezer, water will freeze and Xylene won't. Pour Xylene back into the containers with cactus material in them to extract more alkaloids. Defrost water and evaporate, crystals will appear.

Repeat steps 5 and 6 several times to get maximum amount of alkaloids. Then a simple acetone wash and voila, beautiful clean crystals.

This tek or very similar variants are all over the net, there is no chance in hell im consuming some of the Mescaline people get in the more simple teks. This one is so easy everyone could do it.
 
Why do you use so much water to salt out the mescaline? I use about 10ml and it works fine, a pint must take ages to evaporate.
 
Vader said:
Why do you use so much water to salt out the mescaline? I use about 10ml and it works fine, a pint must take ages to evaporate.
Click to expand...

alternately, salt with ph down( H2SO4) from the aquarium shop and crash out crystals from water/acetone

this salt form isn't very soluble in cold water,
so you reduce the water containing salted material, add acetone, and put it in the freezer, filter crystals from solution


dual solvent crystallization

also, only add enough acid dropwise to get the solution down to ph 6-7, any lower pulls unwanted crap from the non-polar. one "wash" is all thats needed

titration
 
Recently acquired 5lbs of San Pedro and plan on doing my own a/b extraction, but I have a question:

Can you use any old muriatic acid acquired from the hardware store as the acid (most teks say you can substitute muriatic or citric acid in place of hydrochloric)? I just want to be sure, since what I've been reading about the muriatic at my local hardware store is for controlling the pH in pools and may contain a bit of other stuff within them.

Is this okay?

Other chemicals being used: pure NaOH and Xylol

edit// actually just came across Crown Muriatic Acid claiming to be 31%+ HCl .. I assume this will do?
 
I finally started my extraction this weekend... I compiled multiple A/B teks into my own and typed up my own lab / procedure report as an easy way to follow what I'm doing. One tek went through creating an acidic solution to remove most of the plant matter before depositing it all into a basic + xylol solution to get all the alkaloids into the Xylol .. this being my first tek, I kind of skipped the acidic solution (removal of plant matter) step and went to creating a basic solution + blended up plant matter + xylol. this is what I did

1) blended the nearly-dry cacti in a blender
2) made a basic aqueous solution with NaOH / Lye
3) deposited blended cacti into the basic solution
4) added 25% aqueous solution volume in xylol
5) turned the jar over for several minutes, and let sit overnight

this is what i'm left with:

20120929_100210.jpg


after further reading, if I deposited the plant matter first into an acidic solution, i could have gotten rid of all the plant matter .. instead, i skipped straight to the basic solution, so what i have now, as seen in the picture, is xylol layer at the top with the alkaloids and a lot of plant matter + a bottom layer of a little bit of plant matter and basic water.

should i siphon off the top xylol layer + the top layer of plant matter, and place it all in a prepared acidic solution to get rid of the remaining plant matter, THEN put it all back into a basic solution to convert the alkaloids? i feel like all that extra plant matter at the top of the xylol layer is bad juju
1
any help would be appreciated, i don't want to waste all this and i really, REALLY just want to know WHAT DO?!
 
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I have gone STB with cactus and xylene and been fine. For me, the mixture initially formed a thick slimy porridge. This broke down with heat to form a thin liquid that separated nicely from the ethereal layer. I would guess that the plant matter that's still sitting on top is still dry and so floating on the water, but I really don't know, it does look strange. My advice would be to add water, heat, base and time. Can't hurt, could help.
 
I'll add additional basic water and heat it slightly to see if that helps.

when I eventually do siphon off the xylene containing the alkaloids, how important is it that i not extract the remaining plant matter floating on top? that shit on top is making it hella difficult to siphon off just the xylene
 
Very important. You need to get it to separate into discrete layers. If there's cactus or water in the xylene, your salting step is going to be hassle and your product less pure. I would immerse all three jars in warm to hot water (make sure they don't crack now) for quite a long time. IME, heat is the key with STB mescaline.
 
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Great, thank you.

Just assuming the worse at this point, say I heat it and a lot of the plant matter doesn't float to the bottom. Would it be okay for me to siphon off the xylene layer, which could contain a small amount of plant matter, filter out the plant matter, deposit the plant matter back into the basic solution, then add more xylene to do another pull? Repeat until no longer necessary?
 
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