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☛ Official ☚ The Big & Dandy Mescaline Extraction thread

no it is not possible that you made the organic phase (xylene) basic, because the OH- won't migrate into the organic phase because it is strongly polar. 120g of NaOH per 900ml of aqeous solution is overkill in my opinion but shouldn't have harmed the process. one thing I could imagine is that you made the solution so basic that you had a sigificant amount of the amine functions in the form of R-NH(-), which could keep them in the aqueous phase even though you extracted organically. but I am not sure about that and haven't checked pka/pkb of the involved chemicals.

ok a quick research made it appearant that the R-NH2 shouldn't be deprotonated, so I don't know where the error is.
 
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R-NH2 will not be deprotonated in water as water would protonate the deprotonated amine. You need to put it in a water free solvent and add BuLi or something like this.

The salting worked if the water used for salting is contains acid after the pull. In this case there was more acid present than amine.

What was the pH of your tea before you reduced it?
 
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R-NH2 will not be deprotonated in water as water would protonate the deprotonated amine. You need to put it in a water free solvent and add BuLi or something like this.

The salting worked if the water used for salting is contains acid after the pull. In this case there was more acid present than amine.

What was the pH of your tea before you reduced it?
The tea was not PH'd with a meter or PH paper but it was acidified with white vinegar. Funny thing. Salting solutions PH'd to 4-5 measured over a 6 after running through the alkaloid enriched xylene. Or it ran blue on the test strips which is far outside the range of the paper but blue does indicate a really high PH. After lowering the PH of further saltings to 3 which was half or less then the recommended amount of HCL with a method not using a PH meter or paper the saltings tested acidic below 4. So maybe it's possible that the first few saltings did not actually stay below 7 after being agitated with the solvent. Beware the poorly active Peruvian Torch varieties. In the future I would always suggest testing the plant matter before further processing is complete to avoid wasting two days.
 
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Prescottdave, Please keep in mind that some people here are not native speakers, like me, and their ability to compensate for mistakes is limited. Honestly, I can not understand the first part of your answer and thus can not comment on it.

The last part I can understand. How would you test the plant matter before processing?
 
I don't even know what depronated means but I do know that something in the xylene other then alkaloids was making the acidic salting solutions turn basic. It took an extremely acidic solution to stay acidic after going through the entire process.
 
SWIM did an A/B extraction some days ago. Just kidding. It was me.

Making the tea was no real problem just took some time. I used 160 g of dried Peruvian torch and produced 500 mL of a sirupy tea from it.

First, I made sure that the pH was low (<4) and started to de-fat. There the troubled started. I used over 800 mL of Xylene to pull out the fat and it did not stop! So frustrating. This was really tricky as one has to adjust the pH from time to time as the pH was going up in the process. I was pretty clueless in the end and just stopped defatting as it took too much time. I needed a water bath to separate the layers every time and needed to wait for this to happen.

After 800 mL of Xylene I stopped, added lye, and extracted with Xylene again. The same problem stayed as there was always a fat layer in the Xylene which was hard to separate. I ended up doing two pulls with Xylene only as I was too tired from the solvent exposure.

I tried salting form these pulls but this wouldn't work as the fat did contain too much water to make it work. In this case, the salting water comes out basic. In the end I decanted the clear Xylene above the fat and salted from this. This gave me 250 mg of slightly tanned material which reacts orange with a Marquis test.

Any comments on this? Help is greatly appreciated :)
 
Adding salt can help if you have separation problems.. the fat not stopping to come out could perhaps be improved by doing smaller pulls and making damn sure that there is enough mixing / exposure (swirling preferably rather than shaking) for the fatty stuff to dissolve in the non-polar solvent. The salt can encourage that whatever is able to be ionized will be ionized, not only by low pH protonation but also chaperoned. If that still doesn't work it may require another choice of solvent? BUT it is relatively normal to need a LOT of defatting pulls in this scenario.

Furthermore if you can't properly salt your xylene pulls I guess you need another A/B cycle but that means properly acidifying again when you have a xylene+aqueous 2-phase system, so that the mesc will go into the aqueous phase again which should leave the fats behind, which should be hydrophobic otherwise you got some amphipathic stuff?

Then when you got your now improved watery solution you can go to a non-polar extraction once again by basifying IF you used NaCl for your separation - otherwise skip of course, you might want to make your xylene a bit warm (which can also possibly help a lot in earlier stages, of course no open flame or anything - warming separatory funnel can work or pre-heating in other way)..

Use sulfuric or muriatic acid to salt, evap. Recrystallize from boiling alcohols.

Peruvian torch is notoriously unreliable / variable when it comes to potency, unfortunately mine was shitty.. I once or twice ingested it as slimy reconstituted stuff which I will absolutely never try eating again.
 
Honestly I don't even know why you are trying to de-fat your strained tea. It's tea made from dried powder that has been strained and cooked down correct?. I see no reason to defat. I would just follow Kash's method and run through a basic A/B. His recipe does not call for a defatting stage nor do any of the other successful teks on the nexus. Just make sure to thoroughly base your mixture to help the layers separate. I second the suggestion of using salt though I have never tried it with cacti. Heat and a strong base should have your layers separating in no time.
 
It depends on what you want your product to be like, I guess anything fatty which will end up in the end product making not some proper solid but a gummy consistency, I bet like the "tarballs" you sometimes read about. I don't know if that slows down absorption any (actually that could be a substitute for staggering your dose which is a pretty good idea)...

Wanting to do a clean extraction seems perfectly understandable to me - the closer you are to a properly purified product the more relevant dosing by weight becomes rather than having to totally guess. And crystals would of course be so sweet.
 
Adding salt can help if you have separation problems.. the fat not stopping to come out could perhaps be improved by doing smaller pulls and making damn sure that there is enough mixing / exposure (swirling preferably rather than shaking) for the fatty stuff to dissolve in the non-polar solvent. The salt can encourage that whatever is able to be ionized will be ionized, not only by low pH protonation but also chaperoned. If that still doesn't work it may require another choice of solvent? BUT it is relatively normal to need a LOT of defatting pulls in this scenario.

Thanks for your reply! I did 5-6 pulls using 100-150 mL of Xylene. From Nernst's distribution law it is clear that it is better to do many small pulls than to do one big one. The problem was that the amount of fat I got from each pull stayed the same over the pulls. I used NaCl when the solution was basic to help with the separation. Other solvents? DCM is too toxic without a real lab and without a real system to get rid of the solvents and MBTE will break down when adding acid.

Furthermore if you can't properly salt your xylene pulls I guess you need another A/B cycle but that means properly acidifying again when you have a xylene+aqueous 2-phase system, so that the mesc will go into the aqueous phase again which should leave the fats behind, which should be hydrophobic otherwise you got some amphipathic stuff?


Interesting idea. I guess I would then just make the tea basic, extract with Xylene, decant of the clear Xylene and do an other round of A/B on the fat that remains. Could be much faster than what I did ;)

Peruvian torch is notoriously unreliable / variable when it comes to potency, unfortunately mine was shitty.. I once or twice ingested it as slimy reconstituted stuff which I will absolutely never try eating again.

My yield was also really bad but I would guess that was because so much went wrong. As with every product from nature you never know ;) I still prefer this over buying stuff from shady places and I optimize for purity and not for profit.

Recrystallize from boiling alcohols.

As I scraped the solids from a pan I think the surface is so big that a simple acetone/IPA (dry!) wash should do the job. If I would have real crystals I recrystallize from acetone/IPA of cause. Thanks a lot for you answers, again!

Regarding your theory on the tar ball: I agree. Having fat in the final salting will do this.

I am a bit surprised. Is there something about PEAs you do not know anything about?
 
Thanks for your reply! I did 5-6 pulls using 100-150 mL of Xylene. From Nernst's distribution law it is clear that it is better to do many small pulls than to do one big one. The problem was that the amount of fat I got from each pull stayed the same over the pulls. I used NaCl when the solution was basic to help with the separation. Other solvents? DCM is too toxic without a real lab and without a real system to get rid of the solvents and MBTE will break down when adding acid.

I guess you quickly reached saturation for the solubility of the fats, that would just limit how efficiently you can separate the fats. It's discouraging but in the end it does determine if you can get rid of it - even with the extra A/B i proposed you would still run into that saturation just the same, unless you are able to physically separate a fat layer in a separatory funnel, if you do that you can turn the tables on it? Isolate it then try to quickly extract residu product back from it for maximum result? idk for sure but does make sense and should eliminate the problem.
If you don't have a separatory funnel, I think I have an extra if you want.

Interesting idea. I guess I would then just make the tea basic, extract with Xylene, decant of the clear Xylene and do an other round of A/B on the fat that remains. Could be much faster than what I did ;)



My yield was also really bad but I would guess that was because so much went wrong. As with every product from nature you never know ;) I still prefer this over buying stuff from shady places and I optimize for purity and not for profit.
That's absolutely right, though what i meant was there are apparently differences and it is said that Peruvianus is variable but for example Bridgesii is more stable and reliable. But yeah luxury if you can choose.
As I scraped the solids from a pan I think the surface is so big that a simple acetone/IPA (dry!) wash should do the job. If I would have real crystals I recrystallize from acetone/IPA of cause. Thanks a lot for you answers, again!
Also @ previous question about recrystallization: there are two major ways, one being to choose 2 solvents that you combine to reduce the solubility making it crash out, the other way is taking a nice clean solvent, maybe even preferably not that high solubility, then take only a bit of it and heating it, just enough to dissolve the product. Then when you allow the solution to cool down, it's best to make it as smooth and gradual as possible (so you could isolate the flask a bit like a blanket to slow it down). Cool down to room temperature then even freeze it to make the solubility drop out. Filter it quickly while cold (it quickly redissolves when the solution heats up), of course a glassfilter will work better. Whatever is left you can just evap, but that slowly crystallized stuff is good quality.
That's because when it is allowed to cool from a saturated solution, it gets oversaturated and precipitates by crystallization. The more slowly this is allowed to proceed, the more 'perfect' a crystalline lattice is built. Quickly chrashed out product however makes more sloppy crystals that also incorporate other minor impurities, breaking the crystal structure.
Regarding your theory on the tar ball: I agree. Having fat in the final salting will do this.

I am a bit surprised. Is there something about PEAs you do not know anything about?

I do like chemistry. But actually there's probably a lot I don't know about PEAs. You recently pointed something out about NBOMe metabolism (open foundation conference lecture), which I did not know and was not an intuitive insight from actual research and very enlightening.
 
Add 10% (w/v) of NaOH and NaCl, then put it in a boiling water bath for 2 hours. That will saponify most of the lipids and make the extraction easier. Wash the organic layer with dilute aqueous H2SO4, adjust to pH 5 with NaHCO3, then evaporate and extract with hot 95% ethanol to separate from Na2SO4. The sulfate salt is easier to recrystallize, since it is sparingly soluble in cold 95% ethanol but very soluble hot.
 
@tryp2fun:

Thanks for you suggestion! Did you ever try this? This sound very interesting but after saponifying the tea you have soap in it, which is a very, very good emulsifying agent. Thus, facilitating the formation emulsions, doesn't it? If I were to do it, I would still use HCl for the salting, simply evaporate the water in an enamel pot and scape of the solids from the button of the pot. I have an induction stove which just works perfect for this as I can control the heat.

@Solipsis:


Thanks a lot for the offer with the separatory funnel. I have one which I used in the process, otherwise it just take too much time and you breath in too much solvent. As I studied chemistry I am much to used to these things to do it differently. Even with a separatory funnel I could not separate the fat from the solvent. The fat does stick to the side of the funnel and this is mixed when draining the liquids :(

In addition to this, doing this without proper glas ware is just plain stupid. The jars in Germany /always/ have something made out of soft plastic in the lid. You will extract the softeners with the organic solvent. These might end up in your final product... Uha...

Have you tried recrystallization from boiling IPA or acetone? How much ml/g would you recommend?

I heard that Bridgesii is more reliable but the only real paper I could find does not support this. Do you have any other sources?
 
It depends, what salt are you recrystallizing? The HCl isn't soluble in IPA or acetone, the acetate soluble in both and the sulfate is almost insoluble in them but when boiled it should work. I don't know how much to use, I didn't recrystallize mesc but bought synthetic mesc once. But recrystallized other things before.

Oh yeah that stickiness is a real partypooper, saponification seems like a clever idea then.

Agreed, without the glassware it would be terribly annoying.

That paper doesn't really tell us all that much, the point is that some species have a lot of varieties that also have varying alkaloid content while with bridgesii this is less the case and is more consistent, logically and from experience of cacti farmers, at least this is what I read. There are certainly stronger Peruvian Torches out there and San Pedro's though, even perhaps with some consistency if you are able to find that variety or ssp. Bridgesii does however also contain some sort of MAOI although I don't know if it is a RIMA or just very competitive substrate, or if DAO is inhibited.
 
I am talking about the hydrochloride. Preparing the other salts at home is not a good idea, from my point of view. The acetate would be an option as the excess would evaporate like the HCl but is is not nice to handle. For sulfates or other non-volatile acids one has to prepare the acid in dry(!) IPA and titrate the dry(!) freebase-solvent-mixture to form the crystals. In a lab this is not a big deal but at home the sloppy approach of using an excess of HCl and evaporating the rest is easier, in my opinion.

I am still not convinced that saponification is a great idea. What you would do is to create soap in your tea. The sole purpose of soap is to create emulsions with non-water-soluble chemicals. As the tea is saturated with soap at some point the rest will be precipitated. You still will end up with a saturated solution of soap and extracting this seams very tricky.

Forgive me my skepticism but this sounds a lot like the people who claim that they know how much MDMA is in a pill from ingesting it ;) For cacti I would have the same feeling and only trust a solid chemical analysis
 
Good point, well you could sacrifice a little tea to see about that emulsion experimentally.. Question is: does that emulsion layer eventually just actually separate as a layer? Is it terribly lossy (probably).. Hmm maybe a sacrificial mini quantity of tea can not be properly handled in a separatory funnel unless you have a mini funnel.

Yeah considering people usually have pretty "wet" IPA, it would probably take a shitload of drying that is not even funny nor feasible (*maybe* at 96%?), compared to say acetone that just attracts a little bit from the air etc. (Which by the way is apparently terribly hard to get nowadays because of fear of bomb-making... I am very happy that I got like a jerrycan of it so that I can extract salvia someday). I have no idea about the azeotrope of IPA but it probably doesn't help with the distillation option.

I appreciate your skepticism but it does seem plausible that the more variegated and hybridized a species is, the more vague the whole potency gets as well as consistency of any other property that isn't fundamental.
 
Sooooo ive got about 3.5 to 4 feet of san pedro cactus, its super old like plus 20 years. If one were to simply blend it up, boil it until the pulp isnt bitter, and then strain it and evap the water into that nasty ass tar, is it active? I was able to preform this extraction with much more detail, but i never got a chance to try the tar. What is your guyses experience with the tar? Whats a dose equal to about 500.gs of mescaline hcl? I
 
It's pretty hard to gauge potency of cactus since the growing conditions and individual plant chemistry affect potency. Generally I believe it's recommended to de-spine it, and cut out the core. Then you can blend up the remaining parts and simmer it until the liquid reduces. You could probably then evap until it turns into a goo and swallow some goo balls. I don't know, I've only used dried cactus outer layer chips before. Boiling it too heavily might damage the mescaline and other alkaloids. It certainly won't ever not be bitter no matter how much you boil it. Cactus contains other active molecules, some of which probably help to inhibit MAO enzymes which leads to the mescaline being potentiated over pure mescaline. It's kinda hard to compare. My cactus experiences have been stronger and fuller than my pure mescaline experiences.
 
I don't think you can damage the mesc by boiling, but I do recommend that you do everything you can to remove any goo aspect of cactus sludge that you might get. A freeze-thaw cycle should be one method, check for others. If you really have a blob that is pretty much one piece it is really hard to reduce without burning it. I guess blending should also work. I had this problem with rehydrated powdered dry cactus, I guess it's not much of an issue otherwise but not sure.

It's not bitter if you can encapsulate an extract you make, even refined tarballs / crude extract in large caps.

Cactus is also significantly more potent if you cure dried cactus bits for up to 6 months.
 
Hello,

Recently I have come into 35ft of raw cactus. I boiled this down to a tea. I ended up with 5L
Several of us consumed 250ml each and had mid-strong effects.
The remaining 3.5L I performed an AB extraction on,
I defatted at ph4 (3 pulls, discarding xylene), based to ph10, three pulls from this and kept the xylene. This xylene was clear. I then took the xylene and mixed with ph2 water and HCl this yielded clear cloudy liquid, and caused the xylene to turn white and cloudy. I mixing until the xylene and water were at about ph4, using more water/xylene depending on the water's ph keeping all of the water. I evaporated this in an oven at 50C.
I have resulted with 2g of white/brown mushy crystals. Is this a normal yeild or have I lost a lot of it somewhere?

The second lot..
While I was doing this I made a further 38ft into tea, again about 5L
While it was still hot I took 1.5L and followed the same process, however the last pulls of xylene came out yellow, and it took more of this yellow xylene to make the same amount of water to ph4, this water came out yellow aswell.
From this water I let it dry under a heat lamp suspended a meter above in a closed box. I am left with a black mushy substance with a burnt smell and slightly cactusy taste.

How have I messed this one up, or have I?

Something to note, the first cook was de skinned, and had scum scooped off as it boiled, the second was cooked with skin.
 
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