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Weed Storage for more THC!

Zija

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Feb 7, 2012
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First off I'd like to introduce myself, my name is Matt, or Zija. I'm 19 years old and have been experimenting with many psycho-actives since the age of 15, mainly cannabis and LSD.

Now back on topic. :\

I have a friend who has supposedly stashes his bud in a mason jar (picture below). In accompany he also tapes a moist cotton ball (again picture belooow) to the top of the lid, waits to up to two weeks and comes out with extra THC and moist bud again (previously dry, now just as moist as when he purchased it).

NSFW:
MasonJar.jpg
cotton-swab-ends-macro-thumb17673446.jpg



Now my question is, is this true? One could only find out if I attempted it myself, but i'm lacking a mason jar/will lol.
If anyone has any experience or has heard anything about these matters... please post here.
Any-ways thanks in advance.
 
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You'd be better putting orange peel or a fan leaf in there to donate moisture to the dry buds. Having too much moisture can risk mould, but I'm sure his method will have worked. It's just not how I would do it. The claims that the THC levels increase is bunk though.
 
The reason for a mason jar is for all the bud to have equal moisture throughout. When you put weed in a bag, the outside stuff and the stuff near the top gets a bit dryer and starts to crumble. Also dry buds lose their trichomes easier. If your buds need more moisture before going in the jar, like suggested before, put a fan leaf in a bag and mix it around every hour. if you can't get a fan leaf I suppose an orange peel work. I have done it before.
 
Actually, I think storing it in a cool dark place is supposed to help the potency of the CBDs, not the THC. Its called curing, and there are many methods that work.


TBH though, I wouldnt want to make my bud "moist" again, I like dry weed. When the crystals fall off, thats a good thing for me lol, it not only smokes nicer IMO, but also has a better taste... I just break all my buds over a plate though, so whatever crystals do fall off (a negligible amount) collect over time, and eventually I'll have a nice bowl of pure kief to smoke! :)
 
Curing does make the weed a lot more potent and sweeter/better tasting but it takes quite a while to do it properly and should be done it a mason-like jar. Rehydrating the weed won't improve the potency, it'll just make it less harsh to smoke as long as you don't go too far. There is a happy medium though.

Curing buds ideally takes at least a few months, but beyond six months there's usually no more benefit. But yeah, curing can definitely often turn mediocre weed into something heavenly.
 
There's no point in rehydrating your weed, it tastes and burns better when dry anyways. Doing so is just going to risk mold production.

And from the point the plant is cut, no more THC is produced, it only degrades. You can put moisture back in through these methods, but not THC degraded through heat, direct light, or oxidation.
 
There's no point in rehydrating your weed, it tastes and burns better when dry anyways. Doing so is just going to risk mold production.

And from the point the plant is cut, no more THC is produced, it only degrades. You can put moisture back in through these methods, but not THC degraded through heat, direct light, or oxidation.

Take a look at this. By the way I'm not sure if you've ever smoke flash dried weed but it's harsh as fuck and tastes horrible.

Does curing affect potency?

Contributed by: Fergetit & Skunk Works
Submitted: October 31st, 2003

The very short answer is YES. It does affect potency in a very positive manner. Curing cannabis after harvesting for few days to several months will improve the potency, as well as the taste and texture of the buds.

Curing takes place after cannabis has been harvested, manicured and partially dried. Most cannabis will retain a significant quantity of moisture within its stems and inner buds even when the outside feels dry. This is especially true for very dense buds, more care must be taken in drying loose airy buds because sometimes they can dry too fast.

Should a sample of bud become over-dried before proper curing is complete, many different techniques may be used to slightly re-hydrate the bud and continue curing as normal. Fresh buds, orange or lemon peels, lettuce, apple or many other fresh fruits and vegetables can be added to a sealed jar of pot to allow more moisture to diffuse into it. Plain water either sprayed directly on or applied via towel to the buds is also a good way to re-moisten them.

Be very careful when re-moisturizing buds though, because sometimes the re-moisturizing material can carry pathogenic fungi and bacteria, Which if not monitored carefully, can destroy your crop. Venting, checking, turning, and even re-moistening of buds is necessary so that the proper moisture content to promote curing is present, slow even drying is the optimum process for curing cannabis.

The preferred container for curing and storage of cannabis buds is an all glass jar, with a large opening for easy access. Wide-mouth canning jars with glass bodies and tops with a rubber seal are an ideal choice. Less preferred are small-mouth canning jars with metal or plastic lids. Generally try to avoid all plastics in direct or close contact with your cannabis. Generally these materials are slightly porous and the phenolic acids and terpenoids can react with plastics, but not with glass.

Initially drying can be preformed free hanging or enclosed in cardboard boxes or paper bags, both of which will act as a desiccant.

There are several process and effects which take place during curing that can rationally and scientifically explain the increase in potency and improvement of the smoke in cured material:

Moisture Content

Moisture is essential for the curing process, it is both your friend and enemy. If too much moisture is left in the buds, with out the regular mixing, venting and turning of buds involved with curing, molds and bacteria can quickly form and ruin the taste and potency of your stash. On the other hand, without the necessary moisture metabolic processes essential to curing do not take place.

Fresh cannabis plants are around 80% water (all %ís by weight); curing generally begins after the cannabis has lost half of itís initial mass, and contains approximately 33% of itís initial water.

Once curing is complete and the pot is ìdryî, it should still contain 10-15% moisture, approximately 2-4% of itsí initial water. This is an ideal because most bacteria and molds can not grow below 15% water content, and below 10% cannabis buds tend to powder.

Cannabinoid Conversion

Naturally, as the metabolic processes continue during curing, the conversion of cannabergerol to tetrahydrocannabinol will continue and the potency of the pot will increase. This is because cannabergerol (CBG) is the non-psychoactive precursor for tetrahydrocannabinol (THC). Of course, the exact change in THC content will necessarily be dependant upon the concentration of CBG in the fresh material at harvest. Of course any remaining precursors necessary to form additional cannabidiol (CBD) and other cannabinoids will also be consumed and converted.

Be aware though if curing is excessively prolonged (most connoisseurs would agree after 6 months no more benefit could be had from curing), the conversion of THC to non-psychoactive cannabinol (CBN) will occur. The exact rate of decomposition can vary widely depending on handling and storage conditions, but can be less than 10% to greater than 40% decomposition per year.

Storage tips:

Potency during curing and storage can be maintained by observing some basic precautions:

The buds need to be kept in the dark, protected from light, which will quickly decompose the THC.

Moderated temperatures should be observed during curing, 50-75F being ideal.

Excessively hot temperatures will promote oxidation and the growth of mold and bacteria, and very cold temperatures can prolong curing and drying for up to several months.

During storage, buds should be stored as cold as possible, if temperatures of 0C or less are to be used, make sure the bud is dried to a very low moisture content before storage (to insure that cell walls are not burst by the freezing water).
Also, if prolonged storage is planned evacuating the oxygen and replacing it with carbon dioxide, nitrogen, argon, nitrous oxide, or any other inert gas will help slow oxidation, as well as the addition of antioxidants such as ascorbic acid packets or vitamin C tablets.

The most stable way to store cannabis is as whole unbroken buds or unpressed trichomes. Excessive rough handling or pressing can easily damage the protective cell walls and plant waxes that help protect cannabinoids from oxidation.

Continued Metabolism

Also as these metabolic process take place, the plant needs energy which leads it to consume the sugars, starches, nitrates, and minerals. Many of these compounds are metabolized and released as water and carbon dioxide, therefore removing what is essentially inert material from the pot increasing the concentration of cannabinoids therefore making it more potent.

Much of these positive metabolic processes can be most effectively begun with thourough flushing and stripping of the plant before harvest. This will help reduce the amount of time necessary for a good cure.

Curing will not only improve potency, but the color and look of most cannabis buds because as the chlorophyll is broken down purple, gold, and white coloration can emerge and the trichomes will appear more pronounced.

Decarboxylation

Some decarboxylization will take place during curing as well. This happens when the carboxyl group (COOH) located at C-2, C-4, or the end of the hydrocarbon chain at C-3 is destroyed leaving a hydrogen attached and liberating CO2.

Decarboxylization is necessary to convert cannabinoids to usable psychoactive forms; the plants (and your body) carboxylize cannabinoids to make them more soluble in water (for metabolic reactions and excretion).

Research indicates that this effect is fairly minimal during the curing process though. Decarboxylization will take place naturally very rapidly at temperatures of over 100C. So smoking and most any cooking will decarboxylize the cannabinoids. As decarboxylization occurs, the loss of CO2 will liberate a small amount of inert material making the pot more potent via concentration of the cannabinoids.

Taste & Odor

Terpenoids are the highly volatile compounds that give marijuana much of itsí characteristic odors, and therefore tastes.

The most current research also suggests terpenoids lend to the high, sometimes very significantly. Cannabinoids are phenolated terepenes so itís not surprising that many hundreds of different terpenoids are synthesized as well.

As pot ages, some of the terpenoids go through polycyclic aromatization in the process of decomposition. This agglomeration of terpenoids will change the flavor; hence the ability of cured pot to show flavors that didnít seem present in the original fresh material. Much of the very volatile terpenoids will also evaporate and or decompose, especially with prolonged curing or storage. This action will remove some matter from the pot increasing the cannabinoid concentration and therefore potency.

It must be noted that excessively long curing or storage, higher temperatures, or extremely low moisture content will cause such through evaporation of the terpenoids that the cannabis will generally loose almost all of itís natural flavors.
 
Hey guys, I have been meaning to buy a mason jar for ages and me reading this thread yesterday coincided with me picking up an ounce of good weed which in turn inspired me to go and buy one. The main question I have is does size matter? Like do you ideally want a jar that is basically filled with your weed, or does it not matter if your weed only takes up say half the jar? The only reason I wonder is the more space in the jar not being taken up by weed means there would be more air in the jar at any given time, could using too large a jar mean I get unwanted moisture in my buds?
 
The bud can only possibly absorb moisture from the air in the mason jar, the difference between the amount of moisture in the air of a small mason jar or a large mason jar is negligible in this case.

It won't affect the outcome.
 
drug_mentor, you want to be sure those nugs are absolutely bone dry (stems snap cleanly and don't bend) before putting it in a jar. Otherwise, you risk a very high chance of developing mold: airtight jars mean no way for the nugs to get rid of their moisture. If you're absolutely set on putting it in a jar, air it out with the lid open at least an hour a day, twice a day for the best results.
 
drug_mentor, you want to be sure those nugs are absolutely bone dry (stems snap cleanly and don't bend) before putting it in a jar. Otherwise, you risk a very high chance of developing mold: airtight jars mean no way for the nugs to get rid of their moisture. If you're absolutely set on putting it in a jar, air it out with the lid open at least an hour a day, twice a day for the best results.

^Do this. It works.^

No you don't have to fill the jar with plant material but if you hypothetically had a large amount you'd want to make sure the plant material is dried out before curing it the way other people explained how to do.

I've never put fruit peels in a jar or bag, or done what the OP's friend does with a wet cotton ball. By using either fruit peels or a wet cotton ball you risk hypothetically having mold develop especially if you put the fruit peel or wet cotton ball in the jar or bag for a few days and then close it up and keep it in a dark place.

If you're hypothetically going to store plant material for a long period of time curing it and keeping it in a Mason jar is the way to go.
 
Hey guys, the bud I get is usually pretty dry, not exactly bone dry but it certainly isn't very moist. If I picked up an unusually wet bag I would dry it out before I put it in a jar. I am not really looking to cure my weed, I just thought storing in jars kept weed fresher and more potent (due to the static on plastic bags pulling trichomes off bud, as I currently store in plastic bags) is this not correct? An ounce usually lasts me two weeks but as I pick up another before I run out I may have a given strain for up to a month I guess, surely this wouldn't be long enough for mould to develop on relatively dry bud?
 
That "freshness" you seek to retain is the tiny amount of moisture that can cause buds to mold. You want the nugs totally dry before putting them in the jar.

To be honest, glass jars aren't worth the headache, especially since I've had 3/4 an ounce of top-shelf, expensive medical weed go moldy on me in a glass jar while I was airing it out for 20 minutes a day.

I just use plastic medicine bottles for 3.5g pickups, and even then I air it out for the first couple of days. Not worth the risk on an investment, just my opinion.
 
I work from home and don't go out as much as I used to, it really isn't a hassle for me to have to air out a jar once or twice a day. One thing I am not super clear on is do you keep airing out or 'burping' the jar even after the bud is bone dry, or at that point can you just leave it sitting in the jar? I have two different types of weed in two jars, one is really dry and I am not sure if I am meant to be opening that one, the other is the tiniest bit moist so I am opening the jar for roughly 30 mins twice a day, am I doing that correct?

ErgicMergic you say using glass jars gives a "very high chance of developing mold" but I am confused why medical mj dispesaries in the states tend to store their weed in this way and why so many people would suggest it is the best way if the risk is really that high? Also, how long goes mould take to develop generally speaking?

My main reason for trying glass jars for storage is reading this shit that static in plastic bags (the way I was previously storing weed) pulls trichomes from the weed and adversely affects potency. If plastic bags steal my trichomes and glass jars are more than likely going to make my bud mouldy then what exactly is the best storage method? I buy ounces at a time and I re up before I run out, so I generally have anywhere from ten grams to 1.5 ounces to store at any given time which means little prescription bottles aren't really an option for me.

I am really looking for an alternative to plastic bags and thought mason jars seemed the perfect solution, however as a daily smoker who doesn't make a great deal of money it would be DISASTROUS if I were to have anything upwards of a half ounce go mouldy, and honestly anything above a few grams would hurt my smoking for a couple days...
 
^ there is no need to burp the jar providing that you give it an extra week or so extra from the point at which the buds are 'snap dry' i.e. snap when the stems are bent.

Just make sure you actually dry the buds in the correct way first.
 
Just to clarify I am storing weed that I purchased and not weed that I have grown. I don't really do anything to dry my weed out but leave the bag open overnight or something if its particularly wet. Does this change the situation at all? Sorry to ask so many questions this is just new to me and everyone I know just stores their shit in a baggie or maybe a tupperware container.
 
Mason jars don't need to be burped unless your getting really damp stuff. They work great for short and long term storage.
 
That directly contradicts what Ergicmergic said about there being a high risk for mold so I am confused... Perhaps he thought I was talking about curing shit I have grown? As I said in my last post, my questions are relating to the storing of weed I have purchased off a drug dealer and not cannabis that I grew myself.
 
Well if it's not snap dry it needs to be dried properly before storing, otherwise it could become mouldy.

The question of whether the jar would need to be burped is contentious, but after my own experiences and after reading many other peoples' experiences, I think it probably does have some benefit.

However if it is snap dry it probably won't become mouldy. Simply burping it once a day would be sufficient. Surely you would be able to do this? If not, I would give it just at least a few days worth of drying out before storing in a jar just to err on the side of caution.
 
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