Lysergamides [LSD Subthread] Storage & Stability

[gonelight]

Every time I have stored LSD I have stored it in the freezer in foil. For shorter periods of time I have kept it in my wallet for a few hours. I've stored them for quite an extended period of time in the freezer and still experienced effects; however after awhile it will become useless in the freezer as well. I'd say after a 1-2 weeks it will start losing its impact, or at least this is what I typically experienced.

Seriously? LSD blotter should keep its potency for YEARS in the freezer

 

[XThexXTank]

Quick question yall when they say keeping lsd blotter away from light does it mean away from UV light like the suns rays or my desk light? Ok to close the blinds and open it up or does the desk light need to go off to?

 

[sekio]

UV light is the big killer, but some desk lamps emit UV too.

Just dont leave it in direct light.

 

[Bee The Change]

I have to agree with the Altoids can in the freezer I have had dancing bear blots stay quite well that method but remember that oxygen breaks down LSD as well not just light and heat.

Bee

 

[tired of crap]

Just wondering how effectively rice would work as a dessicant ..

here are my thoughts

paper, wrapped in tin foil.

place in the middle of a mason jar completely filled with rice (rice,paper wrapped in foil, rice)

and then placed in the freezer

I realize its not exactly ideal (ie an actuall desicant/ o2 absorbers) but it sure is practical (almost everyone has rice lol)


Interested to hear your thoughts,

Tired

 

[Jesusgreen]

How long does it take for heat to damage LSD?

In a rush due to unforeseen circumstances I had to place my LSD in a rather hot environment (or rather I didn't have to but it was the most secure place for it) - which probably remained at 30-40C the entire time. This was for a day or so total.

I wouldn't expect there to have been any significant loss in potency as previously me and a friend left our AMT right by a fireplace which was on for 24+ hours and we observed no loss in potency - but I know LSD is quite a fragile substance so I thought I'd come here to see if I should expect to have to take more.

 

[Mu-ham-mad]

I've dropped a blotter in a cup of tea, before-- and it seemed to be the same strength! So-------

 

[daytryptr]

Just wondering how effectively rice would work as a dessicant ..

here are my thoughts

paper, wrapped in tin foil.

place in the middle of a mason jar completely filled with rice (rice,paper wrapped in foil, rice)

and then placed in the freezer

I realize its not exactly ideal (ie an actuall desicant/ o2 absorbers) but it sure is practical (almost everyone has rice lol)


Interested to hear your thoughts,

Tired

Thats a good plan. It conceals what you have in the jar as well, although someone might ask wtf is a jar of rice in the freezer for? lol I've actually done this with liquid lsa extract in solution inside a jar of chia seeds. IDK how they work as dessicants, but that wasnt really the intent or necessary, just to block light/conceal visibility in plain sight/commonly found items in a freezer.

I know putting electronics in bags of rice that got wet has worked for me in the past, IE after a few days they worked again and were fully dry. Rice should do a fine job as a desiccant.

 

[tired of crap]

Thanks daytryptr,

if the method above is used (rice and goodies in mason jar, stored in freezer) should one let the jar warm up to room temperature before opening it?

 

[daytryptr]

Thanks daytryptr,

if the method above is used (rice and goodies in mason jar, stored in freezer) should one let the jar warm up to room temperature before opening it?

That's something good to mention as well, definitely let it warm up before opening it, otherwise the cold rice/glass on the inside of the jar will absorb moisture from condensation, same with the vial inside the rice/jar if you put your blotters in one. I just hold it in my hand for a few min until the amber glass vial is room temp and then your good to go. If you do a baggie inside a jar of rice, definitely let the whole thing warm up before opening the jar.

 

[CornPop]

MY STORAGE SETUP.

So guys, I have been pondering an hypothetical scenario:
You want to store say.. 25 hits worth of blotter for 40 years.
This is my proposal (of course you can store several more in the same setup)

--------------
Analyze it a bit
________

1.The Glass Jar is Airtight and WON'T LET AIR IN THROUGH ITS GLASS.
2. Silica Beads will absorb humidity if water condensates inside after someone opens the jar without letting it reach Room Temperature after taking it out of the Freezer. They also change colour if they are saturated with water.
3. Thick "Mylar"Aluminized Ziploc. The dense plastic plus the layer of aluminum make this bag airtight for 2-3 years before it lets in a couple ml of oxygen in.
4. Thinner and a bit flimsier "Mylar" Ziploc. This bag could let 1ml of oxygen in after a year.
5. Regular street drugs clear plastic baggie, just big enough to hold 25 hits plus some space at the bottom. This bag has selective permeability, it will let small molecules through in a matter of hours, see:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wO1yq6YTJDI
6. Aluminium fit snugly around the blotter.
---------------

The idea of storage is to buffer as much oxygen and Humidity as possible.
The aluminum foil is enough to block light and the freezer cold enough to slow chemical reactions 8 times slower than room temperature. (double the time for a reaction to take place per every 10 degrees Celsius, I reckon the hypothetical minifridge will freeze at around -6 degrees [30 degrees under room temperatura], a regular freezer goes -18degrees [42 degrees under RT], which would be 16 times slower a reaction)
The thing is very little oxygen is needed to degrade very little LSD (micrograms after all).

----------------

ENTER X, Y and Z.

Hence I am pondering the use of OXYGEN ABSORBERS (X&Y) and SILICA GEL (Z) within the Mylar Bags. You can see the places in the image.
1. My OxySorb sachets are 100cc, meaning they will absorb 100ml of Oxygen, that is the oxygen of 500ml of air (oxygen is about 20% of air).
The air left in the ziplocks will be around 30ml which make these packets over-qualified which is not a bad thing, except for a little detail, which I will mention bellow.
2. My Silica Gel comes in orange beads (I have 40grams to dispose of) and 1/2 grams sachets (I have 20 of those).
Silica Gel absorbs 40% of its weight in water.

-----------------

Rationale:
Apparently OxygenAbsorbers carry their own amount of water in them, just enough to start the chemical oxidation of the iron in the packets. Originally they needed 65% Relative Humidity in the air to react, but now they carry their own humidity.
X and Y would absorb whatever oxygen slips in during the years.
Provided these OXYSORB sachets have some water in them, putting them in direct contact with the air in the final room where the blotter is, would rise humidity in unknown quantities.
I reckon the water in them is less than 1/8 of the weight of the sachet, but I will consider it 1/4 just to be safe (it could be as low as 1/20 of the total weight of the sachet, I know iron rusts with around 60% Relative Humidity, which in a sachet could be as low as a single drop of water).
So my idea to use the oxysorbs safely without rising humidity in the blotter is to buffer humidity within the clear baggie (Z).
Silica Gel saturates in a matter of hours (less than 10) according to a paper I found yesterday but cannot find again. Of course it saturates readily in abundant high humidity, if there is low humidity to begin with it will dry the space without saturating.
Oxysorb packets will rust completely if exposed to an open room in about 4 hours.

-----------------------------

My Theory:
If I put OxySorbs in X and Y and Silica Gel in Z, in the equivalent weight of the OxySorb sachet, then I can leave the whole jar at room temperature for a day so the OxySorb sachets deplete the oxygen in the Ziplocs, and after the Oxygen is gone (The OxySorb packets will have rusted to less than 10% of their capacity) they will still have humidity in them.
Then I can count on the Silica in Z to absorb whatever humidity is left after the oxygen in it is taken out by sachet Y.
I am sure there are still some loose ends there. I reckon though that the buffer of the clear ziploc will allow sachet Y to absorb all the oxygen before silica Z start drying sachet Y.
I think the safest bet is to go Overkill with Silica Z (1:1 the weight of sachet Y) just in case.


WHAT DO YOU THINK?
Will it last 40 years?

 

[cj187]

bump

 

[Jaia]

MY STORAGE SETUP.

So guys, I have been pondering an hypothetical scenario:
You want to store say.. 25 hits worth of blotter for 40 years.
This is my proposal (of course you can store several more in the same setup)

--------------
Analyze it a bit
________

1.The Glass Jar is Airtight and WON'T LET AIR IN THROUGH ITS GLASS.
2. Silica Beads will absorb humidity if water condensates inside after someone opens the jar without letting it reach Room Temperature after taking it out of the Freezer. They also change colour if they are saturated with water.
3. Thick "Mylar"Aluminized Ziploc. The dense plastic plus the layer of aluminum make this bag airtight for 2-3 years before it lets in a couple ml of oxygen in.
4. Thinner and a bit flimsier "Mylar" Ziploc. This bag could let 1ml of oxygen in after a year.
5. Regular street drugs clear plastic baggie, just big enough to hold 25 hits plus some space at the bottom. This bag has selective permeability, it will let small molecules through in a matter of hours, see:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wO1yq6YTJDI
6. Aluminium fit snugly around the blotter.
---------------

The idea of storage is to buffer as much oxygen and Humidity as possible.
The aluminum foil is enough to block light and the freezer cold enough to slow chemical reactions 8 times slower than room temperature. (double the time for a reaction to take place per every 10 degrees Celsius, I reckon the hypothetical minifridge will freeze at around -6 degrees [30 degrees under room temperatura], a regular freezer goes -18degrees [42 degrees under RT], which would be 16 times slower a reaction)
The thing is very little oxygen is needed to degrade very little LSD (micrograms after all).

----------------

ENTER X, Y and Z.

Hence I am pondering the use of OXYGEN ABSORBERS (X&Y) and SILICA GEL (Z) within the Mylar Bags. You can see the places in the image.
1. My OxySorb sachets are 100cc, meaning they will absorb 100ml of Oxygen, that is the oxygen of 500ml of air (oxygen is about 20% of air).
The air left in the ziplocks will be around 30ml which make these packets over-qualified which is not a bad thing, except for a little detail, which I will mention bellow.
2. My Silica Gel comes in orange beads (I have 40grams to dispose of) and 1/2 grams sachets (I have 20 of those).
Silica Gel absorbs 40% of its weight in water.

-----------------

Rationale:
Apparently OxygenAbsorbers carry their own amount of water in them, just enough to start the chemical oxidation of the iron in the packets. Originally they needed 65% Relative Humidity in the air to react, but now they carry their own humidity.
X and Y would absorb whatever oxygen slips in during the years.
Provided these OXYSORB sachets have some water in them, putting them in direct contact with the air in the final room where the blotter is, would rise humidity in unknown quantities.
I reckon the water in them is less than 1/8 of the weight of the sachet, but I will consider it 1/4 just to be safe (it could be as low as 1/20 of the total weight of the sachet, I know iron rusts with around 60% Relative Humidity, which in a sachet could be as low as a single drop of water).
So my idea to use the oxysorbs safely without rising humidity in the blotter is to buffer humidity within the clear baggie (Z).
Silica Gel saturates in a matter of hours (less than 10) according to a paper I found yesterday but cannot find again. Of course it saturates readily in abundant high humidity, if there is low humidity to begin with it will dry the space without saturating.
Oxysorb packets will rust completely if exposed to an open room in about 4 hours.

-----------------------------

My Theory:
If I put OxySorbs in X and Y and Silica Gel in Z, in the equivalent weight of the OxySorb sachet, then I can leave the whole jar at room temperature for a day so the OxySorb sachets deplete the oxygen in the Ziplocs, and after the Oxygen is gone (The OxySorb packets will have rusted to less than 10% of their capacity) they will still have humidity in them.
Then I can count on the Silica in Z to absorb whatever humidity is left after the oxygen in it is taken out by sachet Y.
I am sure there are still some loose ends there. I reckon though that the buffer of the clear ziploc will allow sachet Y to absorb all the oxygen before silica Z start drying sachet Y.
I think the safest bet is to go Overkill with Silica Z (1:1 the weight of sachet Y) just in case.


WHAT DO YOU THINK?
Will it last 40 years?

Bump. Did you try out this storing solution, and if so how did it work out? Love the pic lol

 

[The Shadow Self]

I have said it before, many times, but I'll say it again. Get a vacuum sealer. Seal your tabs properly, and store them in a dark place that maintains a consistent, reasonable temperature, and they will last for many years.

In my opinion and experience, it is the simplest and most effective way to keep them as intact as possible for years. Anything else is unnecessary and, again, IMO, gives you results without tying yourself up in knots and all kinds of containers, freezers, etc.. Why anyone who wants to store drugs like LSD for the long term doesn't own a vacuum sealer at this point is really beyond me at this point.

 

[pupnik]

the vacuum sealer is also unnecessary - loosely packed in paper and stored dry and dark is sufficient for 100 years,
vac sealing and tight contact in plastic can remove particles from the surface of tabs, not that it would amount to very much damage, but a loose pack means you can get as much out of storage as you like whenever you like. locked storage is best.

 

[fastandbulbous]

The main thing is temp, as every increase of 10°C doubles a reaction rate, including conversion of LSD to iso- LSD (well short of exposure to elemental halogens or UV light, which pretty much instantly fuck any activity)