Hello and an MDPV Question

To end this I'm going try once more, armed with test tube & empty house.

I am certain the white PV I will be using is pure MDPV hcl. Doesn't even seem sketchy really.

I would be a bit dismissive writing it off completely as the last PV I attempted with was cut with something, the water went green.

Can anyone explain why this thread, high on chemistry detail, is in EADD instead of ADD?

I am guessing a combination of the chemistry heads calling waffle on this one & EADD works better for advertising to the masses ;)
 
I just realised the stuff I attempted it with last time was BICARB of soda, not baking soda.. I presume that would have been instant fail hah.

Does baking powder work, no I again presume? Can't find any baking soda :!
 
Thanks mate! I will give it another bash just now. 100mg PV with 75mg bicard of soda & 300ml water? Is that right?

The thought that there is something more euphoric when chased & hypersexual than the pure white pv is just devilish hahah :D
 
Funny how you can get your hands on an illegal 95+ % pure substance like Methylenedioxypyrovalerone but are having trouble finding pure Sodium bicarbonate ;)
Are you using distilled water?

Anyway I just wanted to say that I believe this thread does not belong here in EADD because it attracts attention from people that can't comprehend what is going on. Major derailing and useless childish conspiracy theories should not be allowed in such threads.

Even if Stuffmonger has got multiple accounts and posts success stories for whatever reason, even if the "tan" is a myth, I don't see a fcking point why one should spend time to prove it to others, by using less solid arguments than the person he is accusing of fraud. I mean, what are you going to get even if you are right? You have got the right to believe whatever you want and say it, but you do not have the right to cause trouble to others who believe otherwise, by making the thread hard to read and possibly closed.

This thread contributes just one thing so far. It is linked in wikipedia and I quote from there:
(MDPV)
It has also been observed to rapidly degrade and change properties when in exposed to air as a free base.

Is there anyone that disagrees with this observation?
It is obvious that due to this fact Stuffmonger may have produced the hypersexual "tan" substance and there is no reason to doubt that. Exactly like zamzam made his and perhaps Alcyone too.

So I would like to request/suggest, that this thread is cleaned from all the useless replies (some are mine too) and is taken back where it belongs, in ADD.

I would also like to add that even if 100 people post and say it didn't work for them, still this doesn't mean Stuffmonger is lying. If a small number of people educated in this field do their best to follow stuffmonger's steps and understand what they are doing in each step and know what might go wrong prove that it is not even remotely possible to produce something like the substance Stuffmonger describes is, well that's a whole different thing.

Finally, I do respect your approach Alcyone as well as your attitude, but I believe that unless you produce a substance in the same exact way Stuffmonger has then you might have tested something different altogether.

Stuffmonger said it himself. He doesn't know what exactly happens in that mixture of oils and precipitates but has researched it as much as he could and has stated that what happens to the mixture might not be simple organic chemistry in it's classic form. So maybe one who is interested in researching the process should take that too into account..

Sorry for the long & tiring post. I would really like to see this thread continued with more mature posts and preferably slightly more scientific form. That's the only way imo to investigate.
 
Funny how you can get your hands on an illegal 95+ % pure substance like Methylenedioxypyrovalerone but are having trouble finding pure Sodium bicarbonate ;)
Are you using distilled water?

Anyway I just wanted to say that I believe this thread does not belong here in EADD because it attracts attention from people that can't comprehend what is going on. Major derailing and useless childish conspiracy theories should not be allowed in such threads.

Even if Stuffmonger has got multiple accounts and posts success stories for whatever reason, even if the "tan" is a myth, I don't see a fcking point why one should spend time to prove it to others, by using less solid arguments than the person he is accusing of fraud. I mean, what are you going to get even if you are right? You have got the right to believe whatever you want and say it, but you do not have the right to cause trouble to others who believe otherwise, by making the thread hard to read and possibly closed.

This thread contributes just one thing so far. It is linked in wikipedia and I quote from there:
(MDPV)

Is there anyone that disagrees with this observation?
It is obvious that due to this fact Stuffmonger may have produced the hypersexual "tan" substance and there is no reason to doubt that. Exactly like zamzam made his and perhaps Alcyone too.

So I would like to request/suggest, that this thread is cleaned from all the useless replies (some are mine too) and is taken back where it belongs, in ADD.

I would also like to add that even if 100 people post and say it didn't work for them, still this doesn't mean Stuffmonger is lying. If a small number of people educated in this field do their best to follow stuffmonger's steps and understand what they are doing in each step and know what might go wrong prove that it is not even remotely possible to produce something like the substance Stuffmonger describes is, well that's a whole different thing.

Finally, I do respect your approach Alcyone as well as your attitude, but I believe that unless you produce a substance in the same exact way Stuffmonger has then you might have tested something different altogether.

Stuffmonger said it himself. He doesn't know what exactly happens in that mixture of oils and precipitates but has researched it as much as he could and has stated that what happens to the mixture might not be simple organic chemistry in it's classic form. So maybe one who is interested in researching the process should take that too into account..

Sorry for the long & tiring post. I would really like to see this thread continued with more mature posts and preferably slightly more scientific form. That's the only way imo to investigate.

I have never cooked crack & I don't tend to do a great deal in the kitchen that involves home baking so I thought it best to ask. And yeah distilled water. Although I'm now concidering hanging back, just realised I have no needle to extract that oil again! And going by previous attempt that was the trickiest part of the whole process.

And what legitimate reason could there be for posting under multiple accounts that it works other than some sort of personal benefit from doing so?

Also zamzam's said what he produced was not as good as what he had done in 06 and nowhere near as hypersexual as SM describes.
 
To end this I'm going try once more, armed with test tube & empty house.

I am certain the white PV I will be using is pure MDPV hcl. Doesn't even seem sketchy really.

I would be a bit dismissive writing it off completely as the last PV I attempted with was cut with something, the water went green.



I am guessing a combination of the chemistry heads calling waffle on this one & EADD works better for advertising to the masses ;)

Water should not turn green, or any color other than very slight off-white.

Captain, since you have shown perserverence and a willingness to make an effort, would you do us all a favor and do the process I humorously labeled "cold fusion" (since derided) a few pages back. It is utterly impossible to fuck up (assuming you can make the simple freebase). Within five or six days you will notice the dark oil begiining to form and settling to the bottom and can report back at least on that. It takes a while but is foolproof. I would be happy to return the favor any way that I can.
 
I have never cooked crack & I don't tend to do a great deal in the kitchen that involves home baking so I thought it best to ask. And yeah distilled water. Although I'm now concidering hanging back, just realised I have no needle to extract that oil again! And going by previous attempt that was the trickiest part of the whole process.

And what legitimate reason could there be for posting under multiple accounts that it works other than some sort of personal benefit from doing so?

The quick and dirty approach doesn't require ectracting the oil at all. Just dump the whole mix and aerate for a few days in the presence of water. Hopefully no-one is extracting the oil. I redacted almost the entire of those early posts talking about oil extraction. Thefe's absolutely no meaningful information left in this thread about that process and certainly it would be impossible to create anything from the crude outline that's there.

If you do extract the oil, what would you do with it? It's non trivial to create the Tan from the pure dark yellow oil.
 
Yes, I am a persistant drug pig! :D

Yeah I know, I ended up throwing it out. Was near impossible to extract the oil when the water was green & in general it just looked a bit radioactive. The PV I used was being sold as tan & was utterly shit, it stank the whole house out when my clothes went in the wash.

This white stuff is definately the best hcl I've done. I'm enjoying it as it is but I want to get this to work.

I will check it now and report back in a bit.
 
The quick and dirty approach doesn't require ectracting the oil at all. Just dump the whole mix and aerate for a few days in the presence of water. Hopefully no-one is extracting the oil. I redacted almost the entire of those early posts talking about oil extraction. Thefe's absolutely no meaningful information left in this thread about that process and certainly it would be impossible to create anything from the crude outline that's there.

If you do extract the oil, what would you do with it? It's non trivial to create the Tan from the pure dark yellow oil.

I thought the oil had to be extracted and dispenced? Bare in mind I did this by reading the thread about 3-4weeks ago. It looks that nasty it's probably better extracted anyway one would think?
 
I have never cooked crack & I don't tend to do a great deal in the kitchen that involves home baking so I thought it best to ask. And yeah distilled water. Although I'm now concidering hanging back, just realised I have no needle to extract that oil again! And going by previous attempt that was the trickiest part of the whole process.

Sorry if my comment sounded sarcastic. It was pure amusing irony I assure you.
If you need a needle then that means you are attempting the "qlean and tedious" method?

And what legitimate reason could there be for posting under multiple accounts that it works other than some sort of personal benefit from doing so?
Too much MDPV and other psychological disturbances should be counted as legitimate 8o

No really, I do not see any personal benefit in the success stories other than perhaps trying to give new life to the thread. Maybe I would do the same if I wanted people to try this process and was getting impatient so I'm just saying it doesn't seem to change anything about the fact that MDPV is incredibly unstable and could produce 100 analogs even by mistake.

Also zamzam's said what he produced was not as good as what he had done in 06 and nowhere near as hypersexual as SM describes.
Yes I know, but still it is proof of how easily one could produce something different from a white hcl that still is tan and has different Pharmacokinetics from "the tan".
 
I thought the oil had to be extracted and dispenced? Bare in mind I did this by reading the thread about 3-4weeks ago. It looks that nasty it's probably better extracted anyway one would think?
I agree with stuffmonger, that you should probably start the "foolproof" method if you really want to have a go as with the other method that needs seperation of the oils 1000 things could go wrong and there is not enough info left in this thread anymore to use it as reference.
 
I suppose your second point could be valid. About trying to add life to the thread..

Yes well I just followed the step by step instructions written out on a piece of paper but in all honesty the look of that oil it seems a bad idea going near it, but equally bad leaving in your PV. Has a distinctly foul smell and looks harmful.

And yeah that's what I'm going to use now. Have all the stuff ready but probably not long enough left to carry it out today now before family are back. Don't really want the house stinking of it when they get in either.
 
I suppose your second point could be valid. About trying to add life to the thread..

Yes well I just followed the step by step instructions written out on a piece of paper but in all honesty the look of that oil it seems a bad idea going near it, but equally bad leaving in your PV. Has a distinctly foul smell and looks harmful.

And yeah that's what I'm going to use now. Have all the stuff ready but probably not long enough left to carry it out today now before family are back. Don't really want the house stinking of it when they get in either.

The oil is what turns into the tan. Ignore whatever you got from the green batch. Leave the oil. Mix well, dispense into a plate, turn on fan, keep adding water, wait four days (after getting the dark yellow oil).
 
somebody, somewhere in this thread, put all the various posts together about the quick and dirty technique and listed each step out in order. Anyone remember where?

The confusion here about the technique is unhelpful.
 
Ahhh, I see. Probably aswell I threw it away anyway wasn't the best raw ingredient to start with.

I'll do the fullproof method either later or tomorrow morning & report back.

I think about page 11, that's what I used last time.
 
Here you go Master Cods :)
please proceed with extreme caution since you are just a home cook right now and no scientist with proper protective equipment ( no offence )
page 21, thats why I say this thread needs some cleanup :!
NSFW:

STUFFMONGER'S "QUICK AND DIRTY" WHITE TO TAN MDPV CONVERSION PROCEDURE
condensed from: http://www.bluelight.ru/vb/showthread.php?t=541627

Summary:
1-Dissolve the white pv in distilled water (about a cup per gram)
2-Add an amount of baking soda equivalent to three-quarters of the amount of PV
3-Heat in water basin until bubbles, remove from heat and agitate gently to release oils, when calmed return to heat
4-Repeat until an egg yolk colored oil is formed at the bottom or under surface of water
5-Take the flask out, VIOLENTLY agitate the mixture for a minute (until the dark yellow globule is mixed in) then immediately pour into flat dish
6-Put a fan on full speed at the substance and wait for it to dry
7-Scrape up substance, add a small amount of water and leave to dry again repeating until the tan colour develops,
8-Dry completely, scrape from dish, chop into a fine powder, enjoy

-------

Detailed Process Description:

1. Dissolve the white pv in distilled water (about a cup/300ml per gram). PV hcl will dissolve completely in even a small amount of water - no murky suspension and nothing will settle on the bottom. The water should be crystal clear. A flask is good but if you don't have one then use a tall, clear glass. Although, the wider the flask, the shorter the time (generally) I would recommend a more narrow flask at first - easier to see the yellow globules in the precipitate. A large test tube is the easiest by far, and would probably guarantee a better result for the beginning cook. Put the test tube in a glass to keep the tube kind of upright.


2. Add an amount of baking soda equivalent to three-quarters of the amount of pv.
The fizzing is going to begin immediately on putting in the bicarb, even at room temperature. The fizzing will stop after a few minutes, depending on the shape of your flask. Wider flasks will stop sooner. Test tubes, for example, take forever. When the fizzing stops begin the heating.


3. Heat on the stove in a container inside a pot of water. (Small amounts of water in a pot on a stove change temperatures way too quickly for this process, taking a risk of vaporizing the oils, so make sure you have enough water). To safely do this I would suggest you use a double boiler or place a riser in the pot - a brick, stone - whatever, that you can place your flask (or glass of water and test tube) on, so that you can have sufficient water in the pot.

Don't let the water level in the pot go past halfway up to the water level in your flask. I use a saucepan with enough water to come about halfway up to the water level inside your flask. This way the surface water in the flask doesn't get as hot as the precipitate so there is less chance of boiling off the mdpv initial oil that floats to the top.

I let the water in the pot do a slow simmer, just a degree or two below boiling. If you're not sure, let the pot boil, back off the heat slightly, wait 15 seconds and then insert your flask. Put the flask (or test tube in a glass of water to keep the tube kind of upright and put both) in the pot of water. Just take the test tube out of the glass and put it back in the glass during the process - don't take the glass out, it will take to long to reheat.

When the mixture bubbles take it out. After the first bubbling you will see a light greenish-yellow oil on the surface. This means all is OK so far. Let the water in the pot on the stove cool for a moment. After a minute put your flask back in. When it bubbles again take it out.

As the water in the pot evaporates, add more. About 15 seconds after the first sign of bubbling appears, remove the flask. If it begins a violent bubbling IMMEDIATELY remove the flask. Let it calm down for at least 30 seconds. For larger flasks, leave out longer. Replace the flask.

From 2 to 10 minutes into this process a thin, translucent greenish oil will begin to form on the surface of the solution. When this becomes visible, begin agitating the flask slightly each time you remove it from the heat. Visible bubbles of light green oil will rise to the surface at each agitation. Do not agitate enough to disturb the surface oil. After the oil appears, allow the bubbling to reach a point just south of (below) what you might call boiling each time you heat -- many bubbles simultaneously and a slight surface disturbance from the rising bubbles - but not "boiling".

I don't know your altitude and water boils at lower temperatures at higher altitudes. All of my work has been done at sea level. If the darker yellow globules do not appear with 10 minutes of the last visible rising of the light green oil, shake the whole mixture for 15 or 20 seconds so that the green oil is well mixed in, let the precipitate settle, and then begin the heating/removing process again. You may have to do this "shaking" a few times. This is what I've had to do if the water was less than 190 degrees F during the heating.


4. Continue this process until a globule of dark egg-yoke colored oil appears on the surface of the precipitate at the bottom, or is floating beneath the surface of the water. (This may take quite a while - 45min to 3 hrs - be patient). Batches in which the darker yellow oil globules appear imbedded in the precipitate rather than floating just above it, produce a far more potent and enjoyable end result.

If there is still a greenish oil on the surface of the solution after the heavy yellow globules appear, continue gently heating and agitating until the surface oil is no longer visible, but be cautious. It's easy at this point to destroy the dark yellow globules through vaporization, so don't leave the flask in the water for more than 15 seconds at a time.

****DO NOT TOUCH THE OIL. The oil is dangerous beyond belief. When I first started doing this I accidentally got a few drops on my fingers while handling a used flask and didn't sleep for 4 days. I had visual and auditory hallucinations and the worst paranoia of my life. It's all the bad aspects of white mdpv times a hundred. If you think the comedown from the white mdpv is bad, rub this oil into your skin. You'll be begging for a hundred milligram dose of the white in exchange. Use rubber gloves.****


5. Take the flask out (allow it to cool - stop bubbling) then VIOLENTLY agitate the mixture for a minute (until the dark yellow globule is mixed in) and IMMEDIATELY pour into a shallow, wide dish. The dish should be wide enough that the solution is barely measurable in depth - a few millimeters at most.


6. Place in front of a fan at it's highest setting and let evaporate. If the mixture does not darken slightly during evaporation, then the room temperature is too low. The temperature should be around 85° but no higher then 115° Move to a warmer spot or place in front of a space heater turned to its lowest setting (don't forget the fan - highest setting).


7. After evaporation add more distilled water, just enough to cover the mix, no more (a quarter cup)
When you add water swirl the dish gently. Keep the fan going at full blast the whole time.
Continue this process until you get the color tan you're looking for.

attachment.php

If you do try it, here is what happens (the white HCL is on the right, the precipitate left out for 24 hours in water and air is on the left, the precipitate after 48 hours is in the middle. It continues to degrade all the way through dark brown over the course of a week. The color in the center is what you're looking for in terms of best characteristics. When dried it remains stable):


8. Let dry COMPLETELY. Three days is about perfect for most batches. Just watch the color change. As it continues to darken, take it out and dry it before it turns pure brown. Even at a pure brown it's not bad and a million times better than pv. If it gets a really dark chocolate brown it's not so good.

attachment.php

(shown after 72 hours, bottom scraped away)

9. Scrape the residue on the dish with a razor blade into a fine powder. Enjoy.



Notes on the Process:

This is the quickest and least tedious technique for getting 90% of the Tan pv effects. trust me -- it's still way beyond anything you've imagined.

There are dozens of things that can go wrong during this process - none of them irreversible. And there are a few possible end products that might look like the tan, but aren't (overheating the solution, for example, produces something, after evaporation and drying, that looks exactly like tan mdpv but merely gives massive, incapacitating headaches when bumped -- no euphoria, no high, no hyper-sexuality).

The worst that can happen is that you end up with a substance qualitatively identical to the white HCL that you started with. Unless you way overheat it while precipitating. That will fuck it up and you can't get anything useful back. So give it a try. At the worst you will have wasted time and have to to spend time drying the failed result.

You will notice a change in fragrance from a clinical-chemical smell of the white to a more organic, almost semen smelling substance immediately on adding the bicarb.

If you keep it dry after drying then it's stable for a very long time (at least six months).


From a physical standpoint, the two forms of MDPV are radically different. The HCL is snow white, the freebased is tan to dark brown. The HCl is a fine powder. The tan is clumpy. The Initial oil (pure methylenedioxypyrovalerone) is greenish yellow and lighter than water. This oil, in water an air, over time, turns dark yellow and becomes heavier than water.

The euphoric element of white pv (what little there is), lasts about an hour and a half at best.
The tan pv euphoria, which is indescribably awesome, lasts 5 to 6 hours.
The white pv has limited pro-sexual qualities.
The tan pv is hyper-sexual to the extreme - even to the point of being labeled "perv powder" by many of its users.
The white pv has a horrific comedown.
The tan pv has no noticeable comedown.
A 100 mg single dose [not recommended] of the white will keep you up for 3 days and create paranoia, depression, lethargy, confusion and a host of other negative and dangerous side effects.
A 100 mg dose of the tan [not recommended] will merely guarantee fatigue and sore genitals from non-stop sex and keep you up for 24 hours max.
And you would, quite seriously, run a danger of getting arrested for indecent behavior or molestation if you go out in public after such a dose. (not recommended to wander around in public unattended after an excessive dose of tan pv by the way).
The white pv creates a strung-out, edgy feeling in moderately large doses.
The tan creates a smooth hum.
If you observe people who are on the white pv, there are few smiles after the first hour and a half.
People on the tan pv can't get the smile off of their faces for the full 6 hours - this is a true observation.
The white pv creates a highly elevated heartbeat in any dose above 20 mg.
The tan pv creates only a slightly elevated heartbeat at similar doses.
White pv suppresses appetite.
Tan pv also suppresses appetite, but after a few of days of use, increases appetite enormously.
It's nearly impossible to sleep after large doses of the white without massive ingestion of one of more CNS depressants.
After the eight hour ride of the tan, most people can sleep like a baby (but you of course can't sleep while the tan is "on" during that eight hours).
The only similarities are dosage -- 3mg is more than sufficient for most people for both forms, and a tendency to fiending for both forms.
It's hard to avoid re-dosing with both forms - which, given the potency of both, is highly dangerous - more so with the white, I feel, because of the psychological stresses incurred at high doses.


The end product, as best I can tell contains only 5 or 10 percent of whatever the "Tan" substance is. The remainder is:
1. There's some amount of mdpv contaminant which was unreacted in the freebase process and is still in the HCL form
2. There is some amount of freebase mdpv oil present that was unreacted in whatever process transforms the the mdpv freebase oil (light green - lighter than water) into the darker, heavier oil (yellow - heavier than water) during the long heating process.
3. This darker, heavier oil is apparently the precursor to whatever this Tan substance is, and a very large amount of this oil is not transformed and is still present.
4. The sodium bicarbonate (and the sodium carbonate created through the heating) residue is substantial.
This technique is not perfect but will give you an end product that's still awesome and has few pv negative effects. The dosage requirements will be higher than normal because you will have some baking soda and other odds and ends mixed in with the end product (none of it, apparently, harmful or unpleasant).



Dosage:

Anal dose (plugging) recommended, start with 3mg and work up, if insufficient, bump a little more.
About 5mg is a good hit for a new user. 10mg is a questionable hit. 20mg is scary. This is highly potent. Don't eyeball dosage, but 3 mg of this is not much larger than a pinhead. Always weigh it and never do more than 3mg at a time. If you plug it - take care: I believe the effects are far more pronounced and the dosage substantially less. Start with 5mg and work up. Never take more than 10 mg.

Oral dosage. I'm not a fan of taking anything orally, except perhaps a partner's genitalia and whatever food and liquids you can't figure out how to mainline. But-- the times I do dose orally, just to get the numbers down for the rest of you, I find that a minimum of 10mg is necessary for a reasonable effect.

Smoking, not recommended. It quickly destroys the active ingredient.

Insufflated, not recommended.


-----

Notes on Effects

stuffmonger writes:

"The euphoria of the tan stuff is indescribable - better than any drug I've ever had. And the hyper-sexuality is out of this world - way beyond anything else that chemistry has yet given us."

Extreme hyper=sexuality mixed with an awesome euphoria lasting 5 or more hours plus a mild comedown.
Tan is indeed easy on the body

The Tan produces very little vasoconstriction - nowhere near enough to affect male sexual performance [will be able to stay hard] and it brings on an indescribable euphoria - very, very smooth and slow and deep.

1. I don't see any use for it outside of sexual play.

2. I can still get an erection and have normal sex without it.

3. I used it every day for more than two months without ill effect.

4. I've had many days off. I've gone for a month with no intake.

5. No cravings at all

6. Haven't noticed any tolerence buildup. Still take just 5 mg



nunezzorro writes:

FUCK!!!!
FUCK!!!!
FUCK!!!!

Holy fuck, fucking Christ, fucking unbelievable, fucking wordless, fucking amazing, fucking everything. Thank christ I had a girlfriend who joined me. Most of the stuff we did that day we still can't talk about. Can't even look straight at each other while we talk around it. She blushes. I feel ashamed and uncertain. She wonders who I am. I wonder who she is. We wonder what the fuck happened. It was awesome. And scary. And unsettling. But we sure as fuck want more.

I am not gay, have never been gay, men don't turn me on, I'm not interested. But if I didn't have a female partner I know, fact, straight up, I would have gone down to a gay bar with a sign around my neck that said "Will pay $100 for every dick I can suck". Weird man!!! I can honestly, actually see how stuffmonger's friends wanted to fuck his dogs. I swear I could have done it. Two days later I was still fantasizing about the strangest, most ridiculous sexual things. Even now my mind is still affected.

This is some scary, fucked up, wild, wonderful shit and my hat is fucking OFF to Stuffmonger.
Still allow me to suggest you try the "Cold Fusion" method if you haven't already begun though (page 29).

NSFW:
OK. Here's a foolproof technique that requires no re-heating:

Dissolve the pv. Add the bicarb. Heat to 60 degrees C. Shake slightly until the pv oil forms on the surface. remove from heat and let sit until it cools. Plug the container and shake well until the pv oil is well mixed. Let sit with a screen on top of the container (to keep out bugs). Make sure air can get in. Once a day re-agitate the mix. You want to get the pv oil well mixed in the with the bicarb precipitate. After a week or so you will notice a small amount of dark yellow oil precipitating to the bottom. It will be on top of the whitish precipitate. (The dark yellow oil is lighter than the precipitate but heavier than water). Continue until all of the light green oil on the surface is gone (two to three weeks). It will look like this:

1627091.jpg


14j3pua.jpg


A note: make sure the agitations completely mix the pv oil with the bicarb precipitate and make sure plenty of air can get into the container.

This is where you would be after the heating-re-heating cycle of the quick and dirty approach that is giving so much trouble.

There are two drawbacks to this technique:

1. A large amount of the oil will stick to the sides of the container through repeated agitations (see second image above). There is no practical way to reclaim this oil, so a fair amount of the product is lost.

2. There will be a large amount of pv hcl left in the solution due to the lower heat during freebasing. The solution will have to be siphoned off and fresh water added prior to pouring the solution into a dish for the evaporation phase. The hcl solution can be reclaimed through evaporation and re-used.

It's impossible to fuck this approach up, but it does have the above drawbacks.
 
Last edited:
@I NUK3D U, don't get me wrong, I really appreciate your posts. Yes I'm a chemist and I'm no stranger to recreational drug use, but I'm not into RCs and I have zero user experience with MDPV in any shape or form. Your insights into MDPV and the RC scene are unique and highly valued. I've got a feeling that you're for real and that you're actually on to something here. There is something strange and unusual about MDPV.

But with all due respect, your chemistry doesn't make any sense to me. While I would be inclined to agree, based on my own little experiment, that the methylenedioxy functionality of MDPV for some reason is less stable and more reactive than in other comparable substances, I think you've got the reaction mechanism and end product wrong. I can't see how an aromatic substitution could possibly be taking place here. As for acetone or acetic acid playing a role, well, I honestly doubt it. 'Acetic acidation' is not a term I've ever come across in any of my chemistry books, so I'm not sure what you're going at. Acetylation? Acetic acid might be a pyrolysis product when smoking/vaping MDPV, but I doubt that it's involved in the Stuffmonger reaction (sounds good, doesn't it?) and I can say with certainty that it was not involved in the Ramsay reaction (i.e. mine).

3,4-Methylenedioxypropiophenone is an 'interesting' chemical intermediate, no doubt, but making it from MDPV requires some reasonably advanced chemistry which will not happen by mistake in a jungle lab or in any other lab for that matter. Yes, you could make amphetamines from MDPV, but in my opinion, an amphetamine type structure can't explain the claimed activity of the stuffmonger stuff. If the stuffmonger stuff is for real, it's not a conventional stimulant acting on the release or reuptake of serotonin/dopamine/noradrenaline. If it exists, it's something entirely different. Look at the dosages and the reported effects, people.

MDPV and 3,4-DMMC in one pill? Brilliant idea (not), but what could possibly happen, other than psychosis and paranoia coupled with horrific vasoconstriction and cardiovascular toxicity? Assuming that you mean in vivo rather than in vitro, I can't imagine how they would react in the body to form anything relevant or interesting. Please try to explain what you mean.

Finally, what is this highly dangerous solvent which is required/produced? (ref. your posts #385 and #766) Why don't you spell it out, I'm sure some of us would like to know, and it would certainly be in the spirit of harm reduction.

I may have a PhD in organic chemistry, but that doesn't mean I know everything. The recipe for discovery is creativity, exploration and an open mind. Scientific knowledge can be useful too, but only to a certain extent. Keep exploring, my friend. But please skip the mumbo jumbo chemistry. <3
 
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Anyway I just wanted to say that I believe this thread does not belong here in EADD because it attracts attention from people that can't comprehend what is going on.

Ignoring your supercilious attitude just for a second....I agree it should be moved to ADD. I've asked why it's here in EADD in the first place. The answer is that your beloved Stuffmonger requested it be put here. And I wonder, just thinking out loud like, why a chemist, sorry, 'simple tan devotee' (with shitloads of lab equipment deep in the jungle) would want the opinions/advice/technical experience of kids in Dundee cooking up shit in their kitchens?

Major derailing and useless childish conspiracy theories should not be allowed in such threads.

Nice way to piss on critical enquiry. I've suggested no conspiracy theory. And alerting people to possible consequences of openly admitting the possible manufacture of illegal drugs on an internet forum counts as harm reduction to me.

Even if Stuffmonger has got multiple accounts and posts success stories for whatever reason, even if the "tan" is a myth, I don't see a fcking point why one should spend time to prove it to others, by using less solid arguments than the person he is accusing of fraud. I mean, what are you going to get even if you are right?

What's less solid than this 'simple' process that no-one has managed to replicate after 2 months? There is clear evidence of multiple accounts. Look at those worktops in the pictures. And I'm not trying to 'get' anything. I'd love all this to be legit. But I feel I have the right, in this forum, to raise doubts and concerns over the veracity of something that's leading to a lot of people in the UK possibly openly incriminating themselves.

Or perhaps its just a massive coincidence this thread is in a largely UK based forum - just about the only place pv is illegal. In a thread ogled at by vendors. And god knows who else.

Please feel free to take your scientific superciliousness elsewhere.
 
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