Tryptamines Compilation of panaeolus cyanescens experiences & combo with THH or tetrahydroharmine, like organic psilocin LSD

[tregar]

1. Around 1 week later all the grain was colonized

2. Each of 6 cake pans (13 x 9 x 2) had 6 x 1/8" holes drilled, then placed a round sticky Air Filter Vent 0.22 Micron with 3m Backing. This is a small circular filter used for facilitating gas exchange (these come in packs of 50 for around ten dollars).

3. In front of flow hood: Into each cake pan (pre-cleaned with 91% alcohol in front of flow hood and allowed to dry) was placed substrate and all the mycelium grain from a single jar, hands were cleaned beforehand and rinsed & rubbed with 91% isopropyl alcohol, all the substrate and grain was mixed together by hand in the cake hand in front of flow hood, the lid placed onto cake pan, did same for remaining 5 cake pans.

4. Leave these 6 cake pans out on table for around a week or so for substrate to be colonized by the grain mycelium spawn. I like to keep a ceiling fan running on low.

Note: Manure/grass bulk Substrate is made from sun-dried horse manure, extra chopped straw, coir/vermiculite and ph buffers. Then is pasteurized for 2.5 hours in hot water bath. This kills bad bacteria but allows good bacteria to live. You can find precise recipes for this in Gordotek's tek writings.

 

[tregar]

Just go here for tek with pics: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28108398

 

[tregar]

If his (Gordotek) method works, I'll end up with a lifetimes worth of +5 level trips on just a single grow. We shall see.

As a long time chemist, my method of making tetrahydroharmine (see post #1 link) using zinc dust or granules is completely different from his method which uses magnesium which I would never follow. However, as far as I can tell, we are the only 2 people who have posted totally different methods on how to make pure THH.

I also do not smoke or vape dmt as he does in another video he has, as I prefer the oral only method of traditional Ayahuasca, combining it with at least 100mg of pure THH. I've used oral Ayahuasca capsules at least 90 plus times over many years. I march to the beat of my own drum. I don't make videos and don't like Patreon as you have to pay money to join, so there are indeed many things I do very differently.

I can see why he posted his video on Patreon however, as You tube banned it. You can't even get Caapi on ebay anymore, much less psychotria. "The man" has taken over media and auction monopoly. But you can still buy material items like Caapi necklaces, materialism still rules the Western world.

If you like LSD like I do, combine panaeolus with at least 100mg of the pure betacarboline THH, it's quite incredible, like a long lasting natural version of LSD. I give experiences from others who have tried the same combination in the link in post #1.

 

[tregar]

Gordotek said:

The "Estero" strain was the best strain that I tested until finding TTBVI which is even better (just as aggressive and easy to grow but even more potent and it prints better). They are extremely vigorous, potent, and produce high yields. There was some doubt at one point that the Estero strain was even pan cyan, some thought it might be pan cambo because it was almost too easy to grow. However thin layer chromatography clearly shows it is not pan cambo, it has the alkaloid potency in the HIGH end of reported ranges for pan cyan.

Comparison of Estero (Pan cyan) and Albino Penis Envy (Cubensis) mushrooms via Thin Layer Chromatography: https://www.patreon.com/posts/67621105

I will create a video explaining how to do this type of analysis, but for now I just wanted to show everyone a comparison between these species. Albino Penis Envy (APE) is widely considered to be one of the most potent cubensis cultivars, it was heavily represented in the latest psilocybin cup (if you want to see my comments/critique of the cup, click the link and scroll down to the bottom where comments are shown, to see comments on a phone you may have to tap settings (in chrome for example)->desktop view).

So how does APE stack up against Estero (pan cyan)?

Each dot in the picture above represents a chemical compound (these are labeled on the left). They are in two vertical columns, so the left side from top to bottom is all Estero, right side is APE. Starting with the two most important, look at the psilocybin and psilocin content - quantification is not precise, but you can estimate based on spot size and darkness.

The Estero cultivar is approximately three times as potent as APE (and it would have easily blown all other entries out of the water had it been submitted to the psilocybin cup). This should be a reminder to all to dose appropriately (pan cyan holds the record for most potent mushroom species in the world as per published research).

If you normally take 3 grams of cubensis, try 1g of Estero. It is always better to start with a lower dose and see how you respond before trying anything higher (you may want to start with just 0.5g). There is NO PRIZE for taking the highest dose, in fact there is no documented benefit of any dose beyond about 35mg psilocybin equivalent, just more fear & anxiety for most people.

But there's more to it than just triple the psilocybin and psilocin, Estero also contains baeocystin (hard to see, but its there), urea (quite a bit), and serotonin. None of these compounds can be seen at all in APE. Could these be partly responsible for the difference in anecdotes from user experiences on Estero?

Here are some comments people have sent on this subject:

"I strongly agree with starting with one-half gram dry. It was a much better experience than any cubes I've tried even at higher doses."

"Cubes gave me mild nausea and made me feel 'shakey'. Not at all so with Pan cyans"

"Penis Envy is and has been overrated. I think any other well sourced Cube is just the same. It’s that cultural conditioning at play."

"lol who needs cubes when you can have Cyanescens! I’ve blessed a few people with them and they are now believers lol."

"When Estero kicked in, I wasn’t disappointed. At one point I forgot I ate Cyanescens and thought I was on a DMT ride! As often happens to me on DMT I was 'connected' to some kind of power cord or machine umbilical that was coming from my wall straight towards me and plugged into my third eye! And I felt the presence of a cosmic nurse at my side. Like she had her hand in my shoulder reassuring me all was ok! Then I was like “f*** I ate mushrooms this ain’t a DMT trip”

"I've taken enough cubes to know Estero is different... 2 grams. Most amazing experience of my life. 10 hours. And another two hours of happiness watching TV and talking about my experience with my wife. In the end I just want to thank you. No comparison."

"OMG, OMG, O. M. G. Had my first deeply religious experience on 2g [estero] yesterday. I have never felt anything like it in my life. It was truly incredible."

"I ended up taking a 1 gram of Estero since I’m used to taking 3-4 grams of cubensis. Man…you were not kidding about the potency of these. 1 gram easily felt like 4-4.5 grams of cubensis to me. These were by far the best visuals on mushrooms I’ve ever had. Also, the euphoria was quite intense, and giggle sessions were uncontrollable. All in all, I love pan cyans and they’ll likely be my go to. I’ll likely still grow cubensis for microdosing as well as less potency for sharing with others."

"Experienced people do sometimes doubt ones sanity trying to explain just how deep Estero gets on what some call a "micro dose" the pan experience for me is the most rewarding substance I've ever ingested and half reduced my dose and frequency of use to fine tune the benefits, plus stopped using synthetic drugs completely and have been experiencing recovery i didn't really know I need but pretty sure i do."

"I didn't really expect how good the differences were from Cube to estero. The visuals weren't comparable at all and the euphoria was so wonderful. My 2g trip was literally the best substance experience of my life next to marriage and kids. 10 hours of pure bliss." [Gordo note: 2g is too much for most people, be cautious]

"Funny because I went to an Ayahuasca ceremony in May and the Shaman told me to start growing pans... he said, “Cubes are for the people. Pans are for the elevated.”

"First experience last night with Estero pan cyan. Truly mystical, amazing, and the most beautiful and gentle psychedelic experience to date. Truly a gift."

"There's something about Pan Cyan that induces something special that no cube could ever bring, it isn't that it's a clean feeling either - it's something that must deal with happiness in general - so whether it stimulates serotonin production or a mixture of neurochemicals for the best experience, I have had consistently positive experiences with each trip both physiologically and psychologically. I wonder if it has to do with other alkaloids or absence of alkaloids vs cubensis"

One of this years funniest/best psychedelic reveals was the guy who actually came up with Penis Envy (the best selling cubensis cultivar of all time), when interviewed by Hamilton Morris essentially said (my paraphrase) 'Eh, it's still just a cube, and cubes don't do it for me. I find the Cyanescens far superior (they have entities)!'

Haha. So the guy who created the most popular cubensis cultivar in the world doesn't even like cubensis. Eventually I think most in the grower community will come to prefer other species. I would still like to see some reputable published research comparing user experience by species (this is challenging to do but worth a try). As an aside, if you listen to that Hamilton interview, the PE guy says a lot of "out there" things that deserve to be challenged, every so called claim of "supernatural powers" has always failed rigorous testing and he is no exception.

Since the temp at night was 70 degree F, the heating mat did the trick, after 3 days each of the 6 cake pans had completed snow white mycelium coverings, kept each heating mat at around 76 to 78 degrees F. It has auto-shutoff once temp goes above 77 degree in room. These programmable heat mats even come in packs of 4 for dirt cheap combo.

The Estero variety panaeolus (native to Florida) seems to prefer a constant 77 degree F. Temps between 70 to 85 degrees F work well.

1. This is how each of the 6 cake pans looked before I took the cover off in front of flow hood. Notice the tiny indoor humidity and temperature monitor placed on edge on top of each heat mat to monitor the programmed temperature, to make sure it was working.


2. Even though I used 2 mycobags full of casing dry mix, turns out I only needed one bag's worth in order to cover each of the 6 cake pans with a 1/4" layer. The casing dry mix is a proprietary blend of peat moss, vermiculite, gypsum calcium phosphate that was bought dirt cheap. The exact recipe is given in Gordotek's writings: https://www.patreon.com/posts/44645256



3. A 23 qt presto pressure canner was used to sterilize the soil at 15 psi for 45 minutes. It's very easy to use a canner, all you need to know comes with the instructions with the canner.

1. When you get your canner, just screw on the dial pressure gauge that comes with it by hand, put tray into canner that sits around 1/2" above the bottom, add 3 quarts of hot water to the pressure canner, put your mycobags full of soil into canner (make sure you have a couple clothespins holding it flapped over shut), put lid on canner and rotate it to closed, heat up canner on "8" or so stove setting. Watch air steam vent out of the open vent pipe for 10 minutes. Then put the pressure regulator on the vent pipe, the pressure regulator may begin to rock before pressure builds. Watch as pressure builds in canner, once the dial indicates you have between 10 to 15 psi, turn down the heat to "6" or medium or so, and allow canner to PC cook for 45 minutes. The bags can withstand the temperature no problem. They will not melt. Do not remove the pressure regulator from the vent pipe until the pressure has gone back down to zero.



4. Cooker was removed from burner and allowed to cool overnight. Lid was removed from cooker. This is how the 2 casing bags looked the next day inside the cooker.



5. The lid was removed from each cake pan in front of the flow hood.



6. This is a closeup of one of the cake pans.



7. With clean hands (pre rinsed with 91% isopropyl alcohol, and hands allowed to dry quickly in front of flow hood), the mycobag was held over the cake pan, easily eye'd an amount of casing out over the cake pan so that a 1/4" layer was spread out in a smooth even layer. I lightly tapped the layer down and sprayed it heavily with distilled water after it was in place.



8. This is pic of all 6 cake pans after casing layer was placed. Optionally I put the top back on each cake pan (the inside of the lids were pre-wiped with 91% isopropyl alcohol and allowed to quickly dry).

The lids are being put on just for 24 hours, the mycelia needs to poke through the casing just a bit before pins will form and keeping the top on seems to speed the initial move up, probably because it keeps the casing layer warmer. This may be helpful especially if your grow area is colder than 70F.

 

[tregar]

Tregar's super easy pan cyan or panaeolus cyanescens or copelandia cyanescens grow log, crown jewel of mushrooms - Mushroom Cultivation - Shroomery Message Board

Bottom of page 4, easy pan cyan grown in 1/2 pint jars: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28442574/page/1/fpart/4 For those who experience anxiety on shrooms...If you take shrooms

www.shroomery.org

Maybe there is some confusion, I only use the 91% isopropyl alcohol to rinse my hands and let dry quickly in front of flow hood before pouring casing over cake pans, patting down casing, etc.

Phase II:

There is little chance of contamination once the casing layer is on as Gordotek states. After 24 hours, I will remove the lids, and start the humidifier timer cycle.

1) Gather materials: Spray water bottle, monsoon humidifier with stretchable hose, a few humidity/temp monitors, mechanical timer.


2) Instructions for adding water to humidifier:


3) Program timer to turn humidifier on every 1/2 hour for 1/2 hour by first lifting every black button, then pressing down every other button.


4) All cake pans can be put into an empty kiddy swimming pool in a room to create a "sink/catch" for the fog or into a spare bathtub, we want to make a makeshift "tub/pool". First put down the programmable heat mats, set temp to around 76 degree F, place a humidity/temp monitor on each mat, then put cake trays on the mats, pre-spray the tub with lysol, clean well in advance.


Since my spouse will be using the mushrooms at threshold doses to treat her migraines (hopefully they will eliminate her migraines for weeks at a time, as she now gets them daily or every few days due to an ear infection back in June that finally went away months later but left here with this current head condition), she let me use a spare bath tub.

Gordotek said

If outside temps are 70F to 85F you can open a window. Some growers like to have additional fans running for more circulation but I found this to be unnecessary, the humidifier itself creates nice air currents that stream over the surface of the blocks and this is all you need. I did not use electric light, just natural indirect sunlight from the windows in the room, but if your room has no light, you can use 12 hour on, 12 hour off lighting. You could put the light on a time but since you will be adding water to a humidifier once a day, it's probably just as easy to turn the light on and add the water every morning when you wake up and turn the light off when you go to bed.

Set the humidifier at the top edge of your "pool/tub" elevated, so it throws mist out and forward into your tub. It should NOT be on the highest setting, a mid range setting may be fine, you want it to be throwing out some serious fog but not filling the entire room with fog. If you use a hygrometer near your tub, it's going to go up to about 95% RH (don't leave your hygrometer there too long or it will likely fail). Plug the humidifier into a timer so that it goes on for 30 minutes then off for 30 minutes, around the clock (so it will be on for 12 hours a day total, every day).

At this point, you just need to monitor it a little bit for the first day to make sure you don't have the humidity setting too high or too low, Ideal humidity is 95%. You don't want pools of water forming, just a nice fog/mist overy your cake pans. If you get one of the high capacity humidifiers I recommend, you will only need to add water once a day. From that point on, it should be "set it and forget it". You should see pins form in 5 to 7 days. If substrate looks dry, you can mist with water. Pick the mushrooms as they mature, dry them in a food dehydrator and enjoy!

this species tend to go into almost "continuous fruiting mode" with wave after wave of mushrooms. You should get pretty thick carpets of mushrooms using this TEK, some flushes will be thicker than others.

With flush after flush, a single grow could produce a lifetime supply for some people. A good strain can produce a crop that is strong enough to hold up a cell phone.

These can be harvested by cutting at the base with a sharp knife OR by gently twisting and pulling them out but there will usually be pins for the next crop all over the surface so try to avoid damaging those (I prefer using a long sharp knife).

After a harvest pour 1 cup of water as evenly as possible over the entire surface of the pan. It’s going to look like an excessive amount of water, but it’s not. At any given time, if it looked a little dry I would also spray the surface with a spray bottle of tap water (dollar store spray bottle is fine). The rumors that spraying water directly onto pins will kill them or cause them to abort have been debunked (by me). I have sprayed around, and even directly on pins just to see what would happen, and it didn't cause any problems, I have also directly sprayed the mushroom fruit bodies to see what would happen, it didn't make any difference. Remember how much this species loves rain. That said, I would try to avoid directly watering the mature mushrooms, excessive humidity can cause the caps to turn dark, as can low grow room temperatures.

Dry in a dehydrator, homogenize by blending, and pack into 00 capsules using a capsule maker tool as shown in my bulk mushroom grow video. Store in a sealed glass jar, at room temp, in a dark place preferable with oxygen absorbers. These are typically 3 times as potent as cubensis, so take 1/3 less. A single capsule (0.5g) is a good starter/test dose to get a feel for the species. A sensitive person might have 2 hours of closed eye visuals on such a dose. One gram (two capsules) is considered a normal dose similar to a 3 gram trip with cubensis and 1.5g (3-4 capsules) is a high dose. 2-3 grams could be very unpleasant for many people - you have been warned! Use moderation, homogenize your dose, and only increment in small (half gram) steps after trying a lower dose first.

 

[tregar]

5) In operation: Humidifier quickly achieved a 98% humidity set to "high range" so turned it down to "low range" via it's dial, timed to be on every 1/2 hour for 1/2 hour, 1/2 hour off. It's cool to view the fog flow all around the tub above the cakes, hovering and moving in a counterclockwise direction across the whole tub.

Placed a drape across the front of bath tub using a thumbtack on either side, and left one far side open an inch to allow air flow, and kept the overhead bathroom vent on all the time, although this does not probably matter, on or off probably no difference. A/C vent in ceiling provides fresh air all day long, and keep the bathroom door closed or cracked an inch, you decide.

 

[tregar]

Here I Totally agree with you treefrog....if I were to do this over again, I would have definitely used mycobags and an impulse sealer (well worth the cost) to mix the grain with the substrate...then when it's all grown out, simply break open the bag and crumble it into a fresh clean tray in front of flow hood and add the 1/4" sterile casing. So what if it takes an extra week to colonize...

...as I lost a container due to contamination...this would not have happened with the mycobags mix.

I cut around the contamination outside which was centered in one area, and broke up the rest and put it in an outdoor garden container with a 1/2" left over sterile substrate to fend for itself, luckily the humidity is perfect 95% degres outside after a rain, and 76 degrees F. So who knows....

 

[tregar]

For the tray I threw out due to contamination a week ago, I cut away all the good substrate from around the contamination and first put a layer of wet perlite into a garden container outside, then crumbled the good substrate on top the wet perlite, and added a 1/4" layer of left over sterile casing soil on top...this is all growing outside, I water it daily lightly with a watering can, and the temps and humidity are actually perfect outside except for night when it can dip. This I learned how to do for an outdoor grow from the 1st paragraph of this link: https://www.shroomer...-cyanescens-FAQ




1st pic above several days after moving into humidified bathtub (1/2 hour on, 1/2 hour off) the mycelium can be seen tunneling it's way to the top of the casing.

2nd pic pinheads are forming all over the place, closeup of a few of them.

Soon, will be moving the trays into a Martha tent ecosphere that was given to me by a dear friend who is moving to another state into a smaller place, what a surprise, as this will come in real handy, this way the bathroom can be freed up, and the tent will be able to maintain a constant 77 degrees to 80 degrees, however I set it, due to it having a bulb on the bottom which is a regular old infrared, heat emitting bulb for reptiles. It screws into the power source, and sit's under a tray full of lava rocks. A programmable thermostat regulates the bulb for the perfect set temp.

Even currently with a heater in the bathroom set to go off to maintain 80 degrees F, I just can't get the temp to go over 73 degrees F most of the time near the trays, except for the afternoon when it's 76 degrees, at night the temp can fall low to 70 degrees (and the heater is turned off so no fire hazard) and the heating pads I'm getting rid of too.

The martha tent with the reptile lamp at bottom is definitely an innovative alternative to a ceramic/coil space heater which almost always gets too hot and throws a stream of heat, where as with this the lava rocks diffuse it. That is the main function of the lava rocks, kinda like perlite with it's wicking properties.

The monsoon humidifier I have will be put to good use to throw out humidity from the top downwards, still going on every 1/2 hour for 1/2 hour then shutting off for 1/2 hour and repeat like this all day...and there is a 5" fan at bottom to push air, and large holes covered with replaceable large peel and stick micron filter patches to allow air exchange in several places all over tent. A drip tray that sits under the martha collects any excess water running down the tent. A problem noticed with the bathtub is that water likes to collect in tiny pools here and there.

Evaporation is taking place every 1/2 hour when the humidifier is off for 1/2 hour, and this is important as Jakeoncid419 saids below, as it's just not the temp but the evaporation that makes the difference in how good your pin set will be.

Jakeoncid49: https://www.shroomer...96/fpart/1/vc/1

Mary Fairchild: https://www.shroomer...Number/25248773

Jakeoncid419 said:
Quote

I like high 70s low 80s you can take it up higher though but the warmer your take it the more likely you are to contaminate however they do move faster peeking out in the upper 90s where are you will start hurting your fruits I like 82 Fahrenheit.

Evaporation is what is going to induce pin formation evaporation takes place more at warmer temperatures I found they do best 80 to 82°F but it’s not just the temperature it’s the evaporation that makes the difference in how good your pin set will be.

As mentioned earlier, one mistake I made was not mixing my grown out grain into the substrate in mycobags in front of flow hood, sealing them, and letting them grow out 100% in a sterile environment like the mycobag...I noticed that when I put the trays into the fruiting chamber, they were maybe only about 75% colonized, which is why it's taking so long for the pins to form...as the mycelium needs to first colonize the substrate fully, that way it's not still doing it when you case the trays, as the pins are only going to form once the substrate is fully colonized.

Here's a pic of how I should have poured my shook up grain into the substrate loaded into mycobags: https://www.shroomer...trate-Pictorial Then should have sealed it with an impulse sealer in front of flow hood, let it grow out 100%, and then cut open the bag after it's colonized (in about 7 days) and crumble the substrate into the trays (all in front of flow hood), and then allow another week for the substrate to recolonize or recover, then case the trays with 1/4" sterile casing in front of flow hood, spray down casing heavily, put lids which have the 6 x 1/8" breathing holes on tray for 24 hours, then remove lid and move all trays to fruiting chamber.

Spent a good day reading thru all the teks I posted here on post #1 from all the other experienced pan growers to learn all I could: https://www.shroomer...28108398/page/1

 

[moonyham]

Sorry I didn't have time to read everything but why the particular mushroom strain? Would this not also work with cubes, subs or other more available mushrooms?

 

[tregar]

Moonyham said:

Sorry I didn't have time to read everything but why the particular mushroom strain? Would this not also work with cubes, subs or other more available mushrooms?

Hi moonyham, this is with the pan cyan grass/dung lovers strain, long considered the crown jewel of mushrooms, slightly harder than cubensis to grow, and the trips are way more visual, very euphoric, very intricate fractal and geometric visuals like acid with saturated tropical colors. Several of my indoor containers contaminated as I did not use mycobags to grow out the substrate...I followed a tek where they were not used, now I know better next time to use them.

More on this variety with 50 trip reports: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28108398/fpart/1/vc/1

Modern research has determined that the pan cyan strain of mushrooms with their HIGH BAEOCYSTIN and related analogues content hit the adrenal receptors with as much force as MESCALINE or DMT, see chart below. Notice how just plain psilocin alone hits the 3 adrenal receptors (responsible for enhanced colors, euphoria, beauty and music enhancement) with lighter activity.



Attached: Structure–Activity Relationships for Psilocybin, Baeocystin, Aeruginascin, and Related Analogues to Produce Pharmacological Effects in Mice, ACS Pharmacol. Transl. Sci. 2022, 5, 11, 1181–1196:

https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acsptsci.2c00177

by Grant C. Glatfelter*, Eline Pottie, John S. Partilla, Alexander M. Sherwood, Kristi Kaylo, Duyen N. K. Pham, Marilyn Naeem, Grant C. Glatfelter*, Eline Pottie, John S. Partilla, Alexander M. Sherwood, Kristi Kaylo, Duyen N. K. Pham, Marilyn Naeem, Vamshikrishna Reddy Sammeta Vamshikrishna Reddy Sammeta, Stacie DeBoer, James A. Golen, Elliott B. Hulley, Christophe P. Stove, Andrew R. Chadeayne, David R. Manke, and Michael H. Baumann.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Outdoor panaeolus cyanescens strain estero grow looks promising:

Of the 5 trays in the indoor grow bathtub, 2 of the containers did not contaminate, so 5 days ago, I took the two good containers outside, used a clean fork to scrape off the top layer of casing, and crumbled up the good substrate into two outdoor garden containers, I threw out what was in the outdoor container before, cleaned the inside of containers out well with a garden hose...

...and then added a 3" layer of wet perlite (for constant humidity) to the very bottom (as I did not have enough before) then crumbled in the good substrate with clean sanitized spoon, added a 1/4" layer of sterile casing to the top, and gave it a good watering with a watering can to soak the contents of the entire container, each day in morning I lightly water the container's top casing layer for around 1 second with a nearby watering can...if it ever gets super dry I'll give it a longer soak.

...to my surprise 5 days later there is pure white mycelium growing thru the casing layer! It's looks as if I was able salvage two of the containers as they are now growing well in the outdoor containers...the weather is perfect, between 73 and 85 during day, kept in shaded area, it rained yesterday with perfect 76 degree weather all day, and humidity varies between medium to high daily.

So it appears as if all is not lost...picture here page 3: https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28108398/fpart/3/vc/1

What's even more amazing is that when I remember crumbling the substrate into the outdoor containers, only about 50% of the substrate was even grown out before, so somehow, outdoors the rest of the substrate was able to fully colonize in just 5 days, otherwise it would not be currently growing out or "tunneling thru" the casing layer, as this does not normally happen unless the substrate is fully colonized below.

I have lots of outdoor containers of the same color, it's very rewarding to be able to grow outside, and since I live in a state where these naturally grow outside, I will continue to grow like this, it's just plain fun.

 

[tregar]

Timestop413 said:

Quote:

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I'm not sure the reasoning why but I have had varied success following a similar method to Gordotek where I mix colonized grain spawn with pasteurized substrate. Despite grain spawn jars looking and smelling clean, when things have contaminated, they've either contaminated after casing (trichoderma) or prior to casing (when I would go to case, I could smell bacteria which I assume is set to fail eventually If I smell that). I don't know where the vector of contamination is.

Other times I've been perfectly fine it seems without using the myco bag method(instead I did what you did here and just spawned colonized grain to prepared substrate in front of flow hood) which makes me think its either my grain spawn or possibly substrate not being pasteurized properly when things contaminated but I dont know.

I built a pasteurizer using an 50 quart cooler and I try to get the center of my substrate to around 160 for 2 hours. I let them cool and sit for 2-3 days before I use it usually.

I'm experimenting further around the subject of trays going bacterial. I'm wondering if It may be due to not enough air during colonization period once I mix spawn with substrate. The reason I'm wondering this, is some of my trays that have had very little room left in them between the sub surface and the lid once filled, have mostly gone bacterial so I wonder if it's anaerobic in these particular situations. I've put a few small holes on the lids with a layer of micropore or I've also used the "takeout" trays with no holes and tried to leave the lid loose but I don't think it allows air to flow. So I filled some trays less and tried not to pack the substrate down very much.

I see you have plenty of room between sub surface and your lid tops with air filters on them.

I will try colonizing in mycobags. I've been really perplexed why some trays have contaminated despite the spawn smelling and looking normal, it is disappointing when it happens.

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So good to hear from you my dear friend Timestop413, your comments are much appreciated! I picked up a 50 pack of the good unicorn spawn bags with filter patch. I believe that one of the sources of my contamination was early on when I was mixing the grain with the bulk substrate, I remember NOT cleaning the grain jar with rubbing alchohol on outside, and I had touched the outer surface of the jar many times at the same time I mixed the grain with the substrate, introducing a whole load of contaminants into the bulk substrate, a big no no. Like you I look forward to colonizing in mycobags this time, thanks for sharing your grow story, so cool to see you giving this a shot as well.



Started over, doing this the right way, 2nd time is a charm.

1. Under flow hood, for 1/2 half the agar plates, shot 1 cc of estero pan cyan into each plate, visible spores all thru plate, sealed with parafilm. For the other 5 plates, scraped spores from estero spore print into dish using a disposable, sterile scalpels (10 for cheap), all done in front of flow hood.

2. The mushroom ecosphere greenhouse took only 2 hours to assemble, complete dream come true, set the temp you want for inside the greenhouse, and the martha tent does the rest, notice heat source at bottom with lava rocks to diffuse the heat, and fan next to it to act as a convection oven, fresh warm air being sent upwards, fresh air flow is key. Notice polyfil filter discs attached 4" above each shelf, centered on tent, 4 on each side, and 1 on front, 1 on back of tent.

 

[SpiralusSancti]

@tregar do you maybe plan to extract baeocystin and try to experiment with that substance alone? It would be really nice if more info about activity of named substance was around.

 

[tregar]

SpiralusSancit said

do you maybe plan to extract baeocystin and try to experiment with that substance alone? It would be really nice if more info about activity of named substance was around.

Unfortunately, I don't have the resources or know how to extract just the baeocystin out, but I also forgot to mention the pan cyan's also contain x 3 times the amount of psilocybin along with the very high levels of baeocystin and analogues compared to cubensis.

This video is pretty cool, and expands on the chemistry with charts, tables and real world trip reports: https://odysee.com/@GordoTEK:1/GTEK-PanCyanTEK1080Compressed3500kbps:1

5 days later: The 5 agar plates that had spores scraped into them from off an estero pan cyan spore print using a sterile scalpel to scrape them off in front of a flow hood all show wonderful growth, around a 1/2" or more growth of mycelium in a circle surrounds all the spore deposit spots.

The lava rock heater works great without any water put into the rock bin. I found when water is put in it just creates humidity in the tent, not necessary during the agar or grain grow. It can be 50 degrees outside and 65 to 70 degree F in house, and yet the temp controller can be set to 77 degrees F, and the 77 degree F heating is maintained all day and night.

When the agar plates are completely grown out several days from now, will cut several wedges from each plate using sterile disposable scalpel and drop them into a sterile grain jar by removing lid in front of flow hood, and allow the grain to grow out. Have 6 sterile grain jars ready to accept wedges when ready.

Asura said:

Pan cyans like temps in the 76-80°F range. If I could lock in a temp perfectly, I would have it exactly 77°F at all times. A little fluctuation doesn't seem to hurt, but if temps drop too low, especially before the first flush, it can ruin the entire grow. Drops can even happen in the middle of summer in Texas. This is why I have a heater in my grow room year around.

Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens - Mushroom Cultivation - Shroomery Message Board

Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens Updated 9/19/2020 This is not a tek. This is all of the information you will need to grow pan cyans. I'll tell you how I do it and hopefully give you the information

www.shroomery.org

 

[tregar]

(1) I dropped 3 agar wedges into each of the 6 grain jars, and the mycelium 3 days later hopped off the agar and onto the grain, pure white mycelium now growing on the grain. This will be a separate grow along side a grow identical to Asura's below:

(2) I decided to follow Asura's "cultivating panaeolus cyanescens" word for word for the main 2nd grow consisting of two large unicorn mycobags full of substrate/supplemental grain.

I want to compare the two grows side by side. In case one fails, hopefully the other will make it to the end, but I'm hoping both will make it.

Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens - Mushroom Cultivation - Shroomery Message Board

Cultivating Panaeolus cyanescens Updated 9/19/2020 This is not a tek. This is all of the information you will need to grow pan cyans. I'll tell you how I do it and hopefully give you the information

www.shroomery.org

I'm starting with an LC prepared from a single estero pan cyan spore syringe. There are pre-sterilized LC kits all over the web that make this super easy, just inject your syringe into the medium. In just a few days, it is ready to inject into your substrate/grain medium.

I have the following: dried horse manure, millet, vermiculite, straw, spring water, 50 pack of the 0.2 micron spawn bags (specifically Unicorn 3T 8"X5"X19"), and two of the 3 quart pyrex trays.

Asura said:

This recipe makes about 7 quarts of substrate and is enough to fill two trays. I like 3 quart Pyrex trays. I will fill each tray almost to the top, leaving a little room for casing and I don't care having a little sub left over.

Horse manure 675g
Milo (rye or millet) 250g - not prepped in any way
Vermiculite 100g
Straw 75g
Water 1600g

 

[tregar]

I could not be happier with the new grow.

I decided not to go the LC or liquid culture route.

1 month ago, I used a disposable sterile scalpel to scrape spores from off a pan cyan estero print onto 5 different agar plates in front of flow hood, worked terrific, I don't recommend starting from a spore syringe, I tried and it was no where near as fast as just flicking spores off a print into the agar.

Another easy way to do this is as follows from waylitjim: https://mycotopia.net/topic/3295-waylits-pan-cyan-tek-plastic-jars/

Quote:

---

3- inoculate with spores, liquid culture, agar wedge or slurry
I like to shoot these containers with 6 cc of mycelium water. This way
the containers are completely colonized within 15 days and ready to fruit.

For mycelium water, shoot 6 ccs of sterile water onto an agar plate, mix up
the mycelium and water using the needle tip, and draw back into the syringe.
No need to dig into the agar layer, just wipe the myc. off the surface of the agar.
(Note, when starting with spores, try adding more BRF to the recipe.)

---

When each grain jar had lid opened, and an agar wedge inserted in front of flow hood, the growth took off in just a couple of days. In 15 days all 5 jars were completely grown out with mycelium, I shook the jars every 5 days and this really speeded things up.

I already had several 3 lb bags of pre-pasteurized mix of horse manure, vermic, water, coir, wheat straw which I cut open and emptied each 3lb bag into 1 mycobag in front of flow hood.

I then sterilized both 3 lb bags in the pc for 1 hour at 15 psi. I added 3 quarts of water to canner.

I let cool overnight, then put mycobag in front of flow hood, removed the clothespins from bag, opened up bag in front of flow hood, and poured one whole jar of mycelium grown out grain into each of 2 bags. This was sealed immediately after with a 25.00 impulse sealer inside the flow hood, worked like a charm.

Kept at a constant 77 degree F with the myco tent with lava rock heater, to my disbelief, the bag already showed signs of pure white growth all over the place in the bag 1 day later, and 3 days later I could not believe how great they looked, over-run with mycelium, at this rate 7 more days and they will be ready to be crumbled up and put into 4.5 quart pyrex trays for 1 week to recover, I'll place foil over the pyrex and poke a few holes for gas exchange. Then each pyrex tray will be ready for the casing and fruiting.

 

[tregar]

Reishiman, to answer your kind question, detail for above post:

Found for less than price of a discounted movie ticket: 3lb bags of pre-pasteurized manure base casing mix, these can be found all over the net from all different places in various sizes. These bags come pre-pasteurized for two plus hours. They have horse manure, coir, shredded wheat straw, minerals, hydrated lime, ph buffers like gypsum, and correct amount of spring water to bring to field capacity.

Had simply cut open the bag and poured it into one 8 x 5 x 19 large unicorn 3T 0.2 micron filter bag, then sterilized it for 1 hour at 15 psi, this way to sterilize not only the unicorn bag but it's contents, asura and blue helix and waylitjim all sterlized their substrates, I'm not taking any chances.

These are two better photos on day 4 after pouring 1 grain spawn jar into each substrate bag, the original fan broke that was with tent, so the normal all day temp dropped from 77 to 74, replacing with a better pc fan on the way here soon. The fan acts like a convection oven, blowing warm air from the lava rock heater below upwards to all the martha tent. With a good fan, the tent maintains a constant 77 degree F all over tent when set with electronic thermostat.

The reason you still see clothespins on the bag is because after I impulse sealed the bags in front of flow hood using a twenty five dollar impulse sealer with 4,000 good reviews, I put the clips back on just to keep the top of bag upright (front falling over) as it lays against the side of martha tent.

Asura mentioned here https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/25987049 to allow 10 days for the bags to grow out completely, and to break up the bag and gently mix things up again on day 5 which will be tomorrow for me to do.



Asura:

Quote:

---

Colonization

I let the bags colonize for ~10 days (at about 72°F) in a dark closet. I don't know if it's the lack of light, the still air in the closet or a combination of both, but my bags grow out better this way. Prior to doing this, I used to just keep the bags on a rack in the kitchen. I would see a lot of metabolite expression. Since moving to the closet, my growth is stronger and the bags are mostly metabolite free.

12 hours or so after inoculation, I gently mix up the substrate for the first time. At day 5, I will also break up the bag and gently mix things up again. By day 10, the bags should be ready to be laid to trays. If it is not,I will toss it.

---

 

[tregar]

18 days later the 3 bags are completely colonized, they were shaken once every 7 days, will allow around a week for it to continue to sit, blue helix recommended letting it sit a week (after it's colonized) before going to next stage...

...where the bags are cut open, broken up, and laid in a pyrex tray around 2" deep or so with foil put on top, and several toothpick holes poked to allow for air exchange, this next stage will be the reconsolidation stage for 5 days before the mm thick casing soil is put on top.

I noticed that when it was below 50 degrees outside, the temp in the tent would not go above 72 degrees at night or early morning, so modified the original heater by removing middle board, scooting it to the end, installing a second 150 watt ceramic reptile heater lamp in parallel wiring with the 1st heat lamp, installed a larger baking pan on top, filled with lava rocks....this took around 1/2 hour for the modifications using a drill and screw driver and cutter for the wires.

....and installed a variable speed pc fan to blow the warm air upwards from the two ceramic heater lamps....works wonderfully! Now even though the mornings are below 40 degree F, and around 67 in the house at night, the temp still stays at a steady 77 degree F all day anywhere in the tent, morning, and night, the 2nd heat lamp made all the difference.

 

[tregar]

1st pic, after cutting open completely colonized bag in front of flow hood and crumbling and laying it out to a 4.8 quart pyrex tray, leveled with clean gloves pre-rinsed in 70% alcohol, covered with foil, poked some gas vent holes with tooth pic, and covered the holes with 0.22 micron 3m adhesive gas exchange tiny stickies.

To show that these pan cyan mushrooms can even be easily fruited from 1 pint wide mouth mason jars...

I had 2.5 to 3 lbs of leftover substrate (pre-pasteurized manure/coir/wheat straw mix), so I added several scoops to each of ten 1 pint mason jars from *arget or *almart and also found a dozen wide mouth lids with injection port and micron filters for cheap on-line, scooped the substrate into each jar, screwed micron filter lid onto each, covered with foil and pc sterilized all ten jars in pressure cooker for 1 hour at 15psi with 3 quarts water added to canner, let jars cool overnight, opened canner...

...and in front of flow hood, poured around 1" to 1.5" worth of grown out mycelium grain into each 1 pint jar, put lid back on, shook and swirled the jars to mix the grain with the horse manure substrate...

....put into martha tent between (temp controller set to 77 and 78 degrees F), and to my amazement, after only 1 day and night in tent, each of the ten jars shows super fast mycelium white snow like growth all over the jar...will shake the jars after 5 days, allow to grow out another 5 days, then will fruit easily just by adding a mm layer of sterile casing to ear jar, saturate casing with spray water, and place into fruiting chamber along with the pyrex trays which will be cased and fruited at same time.

It's freezing outside and lower than 65 degrees F at night, yet the martha tent with dual 150 watt ceramic reptile heater lamps and variable speed pc fan that blows the warm air up like a convection oven easily keeps the temp between 77 and 79 degrees F, where I set it, no problem keeping it very warm all day and night.

 

[JackARoe]

To show that these pan cyan mushrooms can even be easily fruited from 1 pint wide mouth mason jars...

Tregar you should put out a PDF or some documents on some of the stuff presented. It is so much info that some of it will be valuable for sure. Put it out, let people challenge as that is how we learn. It is so much info it can't help but be appreciated. And you do have patience when challenged. And as you know everything is challenged. If someone puts out an idea, it will be picked apart. It is the nature of this world.

EDIT: I just realized you are putting the info out. (had another cup of coffee) I was just saying gather it and put out a document or something.

 

[tregar]

Really impressed with the 1 pint wide mouth jars full of substrate (several 1/2 cup scoops), day 2 shows the ten jars almost 1/3rd grown out after adding only 1 to 1.25" inch of grown out pan cyan estero mycelium grown out grain, and shaking well. You can tell the mycelium really loves the pre-pasteurized mix of horse dung, coir, wheat straw, minerals, spring water mix that was sterilized for 1 hour at 15 psi in the 10 jars.

There is already puffy white snow like mycelium covering the surface of the inside of the jars. After 3 more days of growth, will shake the jars well, and allow to recuperate, consolidate and grow out another 5 days. Then will be ready to case with a few mm of sterile casing, saturate casing with spray water bottle, and fruit within the martha tent in no time.

The wide mouth filter disk lids with 0.2 micron filter are really useful.