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[MEGA]Community Growing advice, tips, tricks, & experiences Part 4

Artificial Emotion said:
Miss Kursty I was just thinking about your plant. If it's a sativa it's roots may very well continue to grow during the flowering period so I would pot it up. I'm not sure if it's a pure sat (doubt it) though so I don't know. I would pot up just in case.



I wouldn't say the yellowing is you messing up. It's quite normal an easy to fix with a feed.
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Fat/wide leaves for Sativa...MayBe an Indica dominant Sativa.
 
Hard to say because it's just the leaf trait we can see. I don't think you mean Indica dominant Sativa though.

I've seen pure sats with the same compound pinnate leaves so it's impossible to say, although at the very least it's a sativa dominant strain IMO, (edit:in which case the roots would still theoretically grow during the flowering period).
 
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I think that the spreading of the yellowing stopped atleast. I removed the yellow leaf on the outside because I had to make space for bending down the branches.
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minddetergent. said:
yeah people must remember the first few leaves are their to help establish the seeding and once their job is done the plant redirects teh nutrients to the growth tips which is hte most important part for new growth.

You can still see the green veinsin teh above ouc which mnight indicate mag deficiency, if the leaves turn brown and curl up then you can be sure.
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I'm also thinking about magnesium deficiency but I don't have anything on hand right now to fix it =( "epsom salt" is never heard of in germany. Are there any household magnesium sources ?

I also started 12/12 yesterday since we probably are going to move out early april so I'm a bit late already
 
^Xayo said:
I'm also thinking about magnesium deficiency but I don't have anything on hand right now to fix it =( "epsom salt" is never heard of in germany. Are there any household magnesium sources ?
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It could be nitrogen like AE said, but I'd vouch for Mg def too because of the clearly green veins your yellowing leaves have. Mg def is pretty common too, just make sure that your problems aren't being caused by a pH lock-out.
 
I'm actually searching for my test strips. just noticed I haven't PH'd anything this time. good things its watering time so I'll have some data for the runoff soon =)

EDIT:
The strips were right in front of my face all the time. I tested every solution I had + Runoff of the problem plant. They all came out between 6 and 7 (The strips aren't that accurate srry =S) so I think I'm safe on that side.
 
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I wouldn't go adding epsom salts. Trust me when I say the best thing you can do is just use a good all round general purpose grow organic fertilizer. A good organic fertilizer should contain plenty of magnesium anyway, but that chlorotic leaf at the bottom is more like an N def IMO.
 
They like their new feeding and I raised the lights a bit to get a bit more space. Also the temperatures were lowered by 1,5°C which is good. I was sometimes running into 30°C. I hope this is sorted now

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If you're leaving the thermometer in that position the temperature reading won't necessarily be accurate Xayo.

Contributed by: Podge

In order to know you are providing the right thermal environment for you plants through ventilation, oscillating fans etc. you need to understand the physical nature of the 'heat' in grow spaces, how it should be measured, and the mistakes that can easily be made.

Essentially there are two aspects to the thermal environment that you need to be aware of:

1. The AIR temperature
2. The RADIANT temperature

Although obviously related, these are 2 distinctly separate phenomena and your plants have different tolerances for each.

1. Air temperature
Your standard mercury/alcohol-bulb or digital thermometer is designed to measure the temperature of the air (But not radiant heat). This is what is being referred to in the usual growers 'rules of thumb' such as maintaining your grow above 16degC and below 30degC.

Most thermometers are only designed to measure air temperature – growers often mistakenly place their thermometer in direct light; radiant energy will warm your thermometer and give a higher than actual reading.

*Assuming your air is well mixed up by oscillating fans, it doesn’t really matter where you locate your thermometer. The best spot is probably about half the way up a wall, with a piece of cardboard over it (To shade it from radiant heat), exposed to the mixed air in the grow room.

2. Radiant temperature
Radiant temperature is the result of heat transfer bewteen objects at different temperatures without whats inbetween i.e. the air, being effected. In our case the plants are naturally at a lower temperature that the light and reflector so heat is transferred to the plants foliage from the light/refecltor through radiation. This causes the leaves to heat up. The plants can withstand much higher radiant temperatures (around 40-50degC) than they can air temperatures but if this is too high the plants can 'burn'.

The plants can withstand much higher radiant temperatures than they can air temperatures, but if this is too high the plants can “burn”.

'The hand test': Place your hand in a comfortable position for some time at the tips of your plants should be. If your hand feels “hot”, then the lights are too close, the radiant energy is too intense, and light burn may result. Do this test and raise your HID lights/reflectors periodically to keep light burn to a minimum.

Finally, monitor the conditions in your grow regularly as things are changing all the time, and you will soon get to understand the thermal dynamics of your particular grow space so you can get the most from it.

Editor’s note:
[Cannabis loves high light levels/high radiant energy levels, but exceeding their tolerance for light can result in light burn and chlorophyll leaching out of the leaves. 600's & 1000’s put out a lot of light, and light burn can easily damage clones and young plants.

Light burn damage: initially the leaves look pale green (the edges may turn upwards, mimicking a Mg deficiency), then they turn yellow and finally yellow/brown as the leaves scorch.

Often you can see a circular pattern of intense light where the reflector has focused the light onto the plants. If plants outside of this intense light zone look greener and healthier, consider raising your lights.
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Hey guys a really great tip is to re-use your potting compost. It not only saves money but it also increases yield - strange but true. The yield even increases the third time round, but the fourth time disease can affect the growth making it not worth it. The reason increased yields are seen is probably due to beneficial fungi, bacteria and protozoa becoming established. Using a slow release organic base fertilizer along with a handful of rockdust (azomite in the USA) per 6.5L potting compost will recharge the compost by providing enough nutrient content for much of the vegetative period. Also using mycorrhizal fungi is advisable.

In the UK the two main brands of rockdust are Seers and Pinetum. I prefer pinetum because it's finer but even so, I think grinding it up in a pestle and mortar before adding to the potting compost is advisable. The type of slow release fertilizer I would recommend is Biobizz pre-mix, which is added at a rate of 0.5L pre-mix per 10L potting compost. The pre-mix supposedly has some rockdust in it already but I would add more rockdust to the compost anyway.

After you've put the potting compost through a riddle/sieve as shown below to remove old roots, add the base nutrient and the rockdust, mix in and water. Then let it sit for a week or two. This is important and the compost should not be used straight away.

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Plant is Half female and a quarter hermaphro/male!!! HELP.....

OK...Now before i kill the yucky half, is there any way i can just bag it?...
So the plant was 1 seed that grew into two seedlings( twins)...Now months into it and starting to bud...But ive noticed there is a female side and a side that looks female but im sure its a hermaphrodite...A.E given me some excellent advice BUT before i kill half my crop, can i put a BIG plastic bag over the offending part and not kill it?...I have one plant and one plant only...its my last chance to have a wee bit of my own smoko for the year....I dont wanna loose half!!
Thanking you all for previous help...M.K<3
 
I would just cut it off with a pair of sharp, sterile scissors, but if you really want to you could just pinch off the male flowers if you get all of them before they open. If you remove the hermie plant the other one will have more resources and will yield more than it would do otherwise.
 
I guess i thought a bag mite keep the pollen inside and still allow me the chance to let it mature further before i kill it...Just trying to save what i can thats why i thought about putting the bag on it..

I guess i better do the chop...Its a stinking hot day today and i wondered what will happen to the plant with a black plastic bag on half of it!
A.E this is the first time i have tried to grow a plant and i guess what may seem a good idea to me, may seem a bit weird to you..Thats why i am here asking..I realise i aint the sharpest tool in the shed so help me!!!Ta man..
 
The bag will just suffocate it and kill it unfortunately. The only way to do it would be to pinch off the nanas.
 
Did you guys know that the idea that if you harvest your bud later than usual you get more CBD is nonsense? It's a complete myth, just like the one where it's claimed that high CBD bud is more sedating. It's all stoner myth.
 
Artificial Emotion said:
Did you guys know that the idea that if you harvest your bud later than usual you get more CBD is nonsense? It's a complete myth, just like the one where it's claimed that high CBD bud is more sedating. It's all stoner myth.
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Oh of course ill believe you with all that scientific evidence you refer too...

Sources?
 
With something as empirical as smoking weed (obviously not a scientific thing) there always comes alot of emotional bias
 
Artificial Emotion said:
Did you guys know that the idea that if you harvest your bud later than usual you get more CBD is nonsense? It's a complete myth, just like the one where it's claimed that high CBD bud is more sedating. It's all stoner myth.
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lol I take almost everything I read about cannabis online with a grain of salt. I've definitely bought into some stuff before without critically thinking it over and I try and avoid that. Whenever passing advice I usually disclaim that "I have heard" or "I have read" just because I can't really say if it's true.
 
hx_ said:
Oh of course ill believe you with all that scientific evidence you refer too...

Sources?
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I try not to make such statements unless I know what I'm talking about.

I'm assuming you've bought into the myth propagated by internet forums online from your statement.

Do you have an understanding of what genes are? Do you understand that if you don't have the allele for a monogenic trait, you won't express that trait? Do you understand the primary difference between ganja strains, hash strains and hemp strains? See this graph for an illustration of the difference. As you can see, hemp/fibre strains native to extreme latitudes, such as Russia or Canada, produce CBD predominantly, hash strains from moderate latitudes such as morocco produce CBD:THC at an approximate ratio of 1:1, whereas ganja strains native to latitudes near the equator produce predominantly THC with virtually no CBD. What this empirical evidence suggests is that there is one THC allele and one CBD allele. Lets call the THC allele T, and the CBD allele t. Because they are codominant, the heterozygous Tt condition will produce an intermediary THC:CBD concentrations, as is the case with hash strains, where as the homozygous dominant TT will produce mainly THC as in ganja strains and the homozygous recessive tt will produce mainly CBD as in the hemp/fibre strains. Because CBD can lessen the psychoactive effect of THC, breeders selecting for potency will unconsciously breed out the CBD allele. This is why most of the drug hybrid strains available from seedbanks are missing this CBD allele. Interestingly the CBD crew have brought out a range of THC:CBD strains.

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This should help you understand cannabnionoid biosynthesis:

Grlic ( 1968 ) reports that various stages in the "ripening" of Cannabis resins can be observed. In this sequence cannabidiolic acid (CBDA) is successively converted to cannabidiol (CBD), tetrahydrocannabinols (THC) and finally to cannbinol (CBN). Five ripening stages have been defined based on the progress of this phytochemical process 'unripe' (predominantly CBDA), 'intermediate' (CBD), 'ripe' (THC), and 'overripe' (CBN) along with a final stage for damaged or very old specimens termed 'altered.'

So as you can see, assuming the CBD allele is present in the first place, you would need to harvest early if anything, which is the complete opposite to your assumption.
 
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1200 watt grow am I making a big mistake.

I have never done a soil grow. I have done lots of hydro grows. Big scale hydro grows.

I am helping a friend. 1200 watts. Prefab grow room.

6 plants per 600 watts. 12 plants for 1200 watts.

I hope for 2 pounds from this grow. I have got lots more from hydro 1200 watts but never have done soil. Alright.

I am about to flower plants are about 18 inches from the pot up. 5gallon pots. 12 plants. there great. healthy and super green. I am going to shave bottom 1/3 off bottom I think. I am going to flower tomorrow. I give them fox farm, silica, h202, ph of 6.8 or so. and im adding bush master and sweet soon.

I plant to flower them today. Even though they look great I keep freaking out im messing up or going to mess up. I mean with a soil grow is there a website to follow, or something so far off from hydro im missing a huge basic. I give them ocean forest soil, good nutes, good addititves I dipped them. I mean things going perfect so far. I can get 2 pounds per 1200 watts right? I know its high per gram but I have gotton so much more of hydro how can I not get it soil when its going great and no problems and I have 5 years growing exp.

I always did huge grows im finding a small grow easy am I missing something.
 
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