Fashion Designers, Seasons, Trends, Models, & YOU.

[hydroazuanacaine]

hope you enjoyed the walk, Joe.

i was feeling quite ambitious and optimistic this morning. i still think there's some merit to what i said.

valentino really eased up on its refined, ornate look for spring/summer. consumable and kinda generic looking.

NSFW:

i like the above dress, but not in lieu of real valentino.

been obsessed with avery tharp as of late ...

by robin black for a blog called beauty is boring

holy smokes, this is driving me absolutely crazy. saving photos fucks them all up and makes all the colors brighter. even if saved as a png. so i can't reduce their size. it takes forever to find a copy online that this hasn't happened to, and once i do i can't touch it or it fucks up. look at this ...

NSFW:

her skin is so much more orange and pink in the second photo. fuck computers. going to bed.

 

[Kenickie]

ok i'm coming back to talk about this in a minute, i just got the yosemite golden master and it stole all my battery life.

ok i'm back.

That Celine looks INCREDIBLE. Ondira looking fierce as all hell in that show. Celine & Jil Sander have got the lines. That Kate Bush song is held up as one of her best because of subject matter/melody. I own all of her albums now, after my psychotic episode with her, and I've got to say, that maybe that album is my favorite of hers. It's her last one before she kind of went quiet for awhile to have a baby and stuff, and it's amazing. It's called The Sensual World and the title track was supposed to be the end of Molly Bloom's soliloquy but the Joyce estate wasn't ok with it so she wrote her own Molly Bloom soliloquy to go with it. The Joyce estate realized what fuck arounds they were being and let her re-record it, but her version is better than some dead white irish dude from the 19th century or whatever.



It certainly isn't her strongest vocally, or even lyrically, but I think it's my favorite because I've never heard a song that so describes the complex feelings I have as a woman about sex. About romance (he called me flower of the mountain) to power and obsession (do i look for those millionaires like a Machiavellian girl?). I even get references to specific sexual acts, but I could just be a filthy person. There's nothing else to it - she's clever. I get to feel clever because I've read all the books she writes songs about. Her voice is just so polarizing that...well, I'm here for Kate Bush, and so is Big Boi, and that's all I need from that. Her movements are bizarre and so modern and conceptual. No one in pop dances like that, ever. She's got a really strong hold on me, and my imagination right now. To open her London shows, she apparently casts protection/opening spells before she begins to sing. I hope Grimes holds this woman close to her heart.

phew now that my Kate Bush rant is over.

Chanel/Karl. I actually find this on point and fascinating, from a feminist perspective.

Historically - women have been controlled by their clothes. Clothes that don't allow them free movement, not being allowed to wear pants, or swimsuits, or she was asking for it, dressed like a slut, girls suspended from school for wearing skinny jeans or a tank top because it 'distracts boys' or any of that hogwash. It's a terrible word, but I'm charmed by this. Personally, my feminism (as a WOC) is concerned about something far more base and primal than equality, no, I want justice, but Chanel is for women who are concerned about equality and it's Emma Watson trappings. This show comes at a time when it's unpleasant to be a woman, everywhere, which is so bizarre. Old white men tell us what the definition of rape is, refuse to allow us basic health care, it's a very ugly time to be a woman, for some strange reason, in 2014. Women who wear chanel regularly are concerned about these things, Hillary Clinton and access to contraception and getting Georgetown to pay for it. Karl was around for the '68 protests (which aren't exclusive to France), and I'd like to hear him talk about why he feels like now (instead of when Femen was everywhere, or Pussy Riot) is the time to do this? It's even got some of that clumsy 'Second Wave' in it (placard that says 'history, what about herstory?' which is the most ungainly of all the waves, christ!) It's great. It's absolutely fabulous. Even if it's awkward and silly at times, I will take someone with global recognition putting feminism up there for all to see, even better when it has a little critique or criticism. Holler at me Beyonce, Chanel, Emma Watson! Make feminism something to be excited about, instead of an insult rush limbaugh uses to demean college students.

it was outkast this weekend. i'm reading the poems of Francois Villion because that's what julie deply reading on the train in before sunrise. there are worse reasons to read a book. sorry for the text heavy post.

 

[Kenickie]

god dammit it hydro!

i'll come back for your post and your magazine tomorrow, i've got to work.

 

[JoeTheStoner]

dro

fuck... 18,000 posts on tumblr. i totally hear where ya coming from about tumblr "offering" you something more than just track/reblog, tumblr/blogs/social media are invaluable tools to help launch/kickstart a brand. building a network online, meeting like minding individuals with the same passion to work together to create the project is all possible man. i have no idea tbh about the cost it takes to publish/print a magazine, especially one that caters to a niche market... fuck, just go for it, follow your dreams! who knows where it will lead you, worst is looking back and thinking "what if ?"

beautiful photos. matching boots for mother/daughter in the grass field, tranquility comes to mind. and i get exactly what you mean w/ the minimal design, love that shit. the form of something that appears to be mnml can often make you think more about the thought of design as opposed to one full of embellishments and color.

was a nice walk, stopped at starbucks and enjoyed the view. not my photo but these are the colors i see in the morning.

good to hear you were in high spirits as well.

valentino sent 79 looks down the runway this season. what i like most about it is the duo of designers working together to push their creativity. the sum is greater than the parts.

lol i can' tell the difference in the two photos tbh. i think i noticed that before tho when i saved the pic for my avatar tho.

ken

celine and jil sander were indeed beautiful. as i read you mention kate bush dancing, the video is playing at 1:56... wild. tbh i just never really listened to her music before/took the time to listen to her lyrics, but feel ya on relating to the lyrics and know what it's like when ya discover tunes that speak to ya. good shit.

yo, good looking on the post tho about chanel/feminism. i too would like to hear more about the idea behind it for the show and lagerfeld's thoughts about the history of it, since like you say, he was around then. i can see both viewpoints, but your post has made me appreciate it a way, rather than just label it as distasteful, the fashion world lives in a bubble. hell, i'd admit i live in a bubble, so if this can open my mind and see the other side of the coin, i guess im all for it. kinda reminds me of the moschino show that was "barbie" looks was it poking fun at the fashion world ? the consumer ? or just having fun without a care... don't know jeremey scott's true intention, fuck at least it makes people talk tho

yohji yamamoto is my fav collection this season. so beautiful, very byronesque imo.

shout out to green glasses guy.

 

[Kenickie]

having collected over 18,000 posts that i like on tumblr, i decided it's finally time to get things in order. viciously unliking and finding the highest resolution copies of the 1 percent to post. so then people started reblogging and following, and i realized how stupid i've been for the last couple years. thinking tumblr does not have anything to offer me other than track tags to browse. dude, if i had been posting and reblogging all this time, i could have so many followers. which totally matters. i got this idea that i want to be involved with publishing something amazing like Lula and Self Service. well, i'm starting to realize that creating a magazine is not that far fetched. i bet photographers are all about having their work in print in whatever, and quality, original content is just not that difficult or expensive to have. then what, how many little hipsters doing desktop publishing for some community journal to pay the bills would be all about a unpaid yet cool project. this dylan guy was only asking for $9,000 on kickstarter to help with printing and distribution of Transmission ... being an adult is a bitch, but has it's perks; i could actually bankroll something cool. then there is marketing. they are individuals following a blog specifically because they share my aesthetic taste. i mean, damn, talk about targeted. what's a reasonable number of followers? these blogs must get into tens of thousands. how many for each conversion? it seems like there is a little social network on there for the regular bloggers. how many blogs could i get to reblog the title and link? and that's just one, free platform. anyway, not saying it's gonna happen, but as long as i'm on there i might as well be creating the audience.

are you serious about this? if so, or if even vaguely so, you should create a throw away email address and email me. i have things & people that can help you. tumblr is incredible. it has a lot of things going for it. it's really awesome that you can use the tumblr api and just have your own hydroazuanacaine.com website with tumblr taking care of the back end. pretty dope. thats absurd, the number of likes and stuff, but we've been over that. i hover around 500-600, and get down to zero once a year or so.

in your comparison photos - the top one looks more orange to me. her face. her cheeks.

yo, good looking on the post tho about chanel/feminism. i too would like to hear more about the idea behind it for the show and lagerfeld's thoughts about the history of it, since like you say, he was around then. i can see both viewpoints, but your post has made me appreciate it a way, rather than just label it as distasteful, the fashion world lives in a bubble. hell, i'd admit i live in a bubble, so if this can open my mind and see the other side of the coin, i guess im all for it. kinda reminds me of the moschino show that was "barbie" looks was it poking fun at the fashion world ? the consumer ? or just having fun without a care... don't know jeremey scott's true intention, fuck at least it makes people talk tho

Also in the context of Chanel's last show, and who Chanel's customers really are. Chanel's biggest market isn't in the West, it's Saudi Arabia. Where women aren't allowed to drive. (See: MIA & Bad Girls for further feminist rebuttals.) Chanel's last show took place in a supermarchê. Where the damaging stereotype about women & fashion lives. Karl is smart. He knows what he's doing. I'd just like to hear it from his mouth. I mean. This is a man who picked a sexy leading man to sell it's most iconic women's fragrance, have a sexually masculine woman sell bags and make up (Alice Dellal) and runs a house founded by a (likely) bisexual drug abusing Nazi sympathizer. Fashion doesn't exist in a vacuum. He must have even at least met the tyrannical woman, even if he didn't take over at Chanel until 10 years after her death.

Here's more photos from the 'march'.

best really. i can't see the whole sign in the back which depresses me. from what i can read it says "...are not able to ___?"

single emma watson stanning dude.

 

[JoeTheStoner]

interesting to learn ultra-conservative saudi arabia is their biggest market. will look for any interesting articles on the show and post them here. love that 2nd pic with a smiling karl in the corner on the right. it will be so wild once he is no longer with the house, dude is 81 and still tapping into that well of endless creativity. amazing.

here is the show, HUGE SET

 

[Kenickie]

Fashion goes where the money goes, and Saudi Arabia, Qatar, UAE...they got tons of money. Tons and TONS of money. Shit, I'd like to follow the money. I've had a rough week in the press and am just about fucking over this stupid city.

hydro - you tracking Double Magazine on tumblr? I feel like it's your spot, and I've seen you post at least one image (Yumi Lambert, Champagne for the pain) from their photoshoots here in this thread.

Natalie Westling for Double Magazine

Is this the rest of that photo shoot?

now i'm paranoid i don't know what colour her skin is.

ps it took me like 3 hours to write this easy ass post because i stopped in the middle of it to GO GET AN IPHONE 6!! i loved you 4s, but now I got this sexy ass gold bar.

p.s i got an ello. @kenickie.

 

[JoeTheStoner]

some binx walton (her story sign @ chanel)

What Becomes A Legend The Most: Binx By Txema Yeste For Vamp #2

*oh and galliano is now creative director for margiela...

http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2014/oct/08/return-of-john-galliano-more-than-matter-of-style

 

[hydroazuanacaine]

falling a few posts behind, all the sudden there's so much to reply to. daunting.

i thought kate bush was the girl from Florence and the Machine until your post, Kenickie. they are often mentioned in the same breath.

what would you do if you didn't work in fashion? i think i'd be at school, hanging with my friends, playing soccer. i think. the normal 18-year-old to-dos.
damn, know she's not framing it as a negative, but sounds like the end of Lolita. appreciating that sacrifice.

Is this the rest of that photo shoot?

not as in all of it. more of it. usually won't give male/female editorials a second glance, but i'm a big fan on that one ...

that natalie photo is good stuff. Double Magazine seems worthwhile. ordered a back issue and giving it a 33 percent chance of arriving.

i'll hit you up about tumblr soon, Kenickie. found my account cited on thefashionspot for a nastya s photo. from when it was one of the five photo i had posted. thrilling.

*oh and galliano is now creative director for margiela...

http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2014/oct/08/return-of-john-galliano-more-than-matter-of-style

ooh, drunken anti-semetic slurs are pretty boring on their own, but this and the accompanying article are creating fun fireworks in my brain. "'Eau de Chanel' mineral water, was a fabulously witty piece of theatre, with a message about the power of branding in the modern world that was all the smarter for being lightly made." and then "When fashion oversimplifies it makes itself look stupid." right, using bottled water to pick at the influence of branding is so clever and illuminating. author is right on about fashion being democratic. democratic capitalism. and people will buy it. people will not rip up their season tickets; anyone that does will sink knowing their gesture was nothing more. a subset of fashion does boast this pseudo social commentary and cardboard ivory tower. that subset still isn't able to exclude itself from what's really good. the fashion industry hoists aesthetics upon a pedestal of diverted great minds, squandered resources, and frail little girls. and everyone fucking loves it.

lines are a fading interest and now it's the photographer. path is probably a circle; hope you two don't mind in the meantime. all about jonathan waiter ...

anniek abma

ondria

and the girl. that point isn't fading anytime soon. "they’re bags of sticks. aliens. monsters. golems. skinny creatures. angels. innocent and precious things." too bad he's dying.

 

[Kenickie]

so much good fucking content in this thread. i wish i could print it out, carry it with me. so when i'm stuck in a meeting with some person for something i could just thumb thru a few pages of next level shit. this thread is better than any fashion magazine i've ever read. and we only get better.

The appointment telegraphed Rosso’s daring approach to the fashion business and raised questions about how one of the industry’s great romantics might interpret a house built on avant-garde ideas like deconstruction.

one of the few avant garde ideas i understand and maybe even appreciate. article also says that 'no one pays attention to margiela', but i can think of several extremely popular rap songs with references to the brand. it's not like it's some niche cult brand.

Chloe Sevingy in Margiela for Purple Fashion.

hydro said the rest. not like there aren't bigger racists or anti semites in the crowd. galliano just got drunk and admitted to them. i personally think alexander wang is fucking atrocious on this score, but so is everyone else who likes rich black mega stars in their front row but won't have a single black girl walk for them. that ondira photo is haunting as fuck. how did some teen from a hole in north carolina get a name like ondira? i know you're a teen, even though you won't admit your age.

Exploring Mary Ellen Mark's photos. She's got really good stuff sometimes. This picture of Jena Malone could have more and could have meant something. Wish she worked in colour.

i miss antonia thomas. i put myself into her as my visual avatar -- fantastical or not. i feel like i get to be seen, with her. she's not around as much as when she was on misfits. her misfits boyfriend is on game of thrones as an insane sadistic psychopath ramsay snow, and all i get from antonia is tiny little fuzzy photos every now and then.

another place, another time.

i'm weary. press was not easy on me the past couple of days, and things are stressful and exhausting.
today Pander and I modeled for a coworker's little side project called 'Atlanta Gothic', where a couple poses with tools of their trade. This is an outtake (obviously, we took a break between moving locations, we wouldn't take photos with cigarettes or booze) but if this is a throw away i'm excited about the rest. Pander Bear says he looks like a goon. I don't give a fuck. His hat says Southern Serves the South. We've been together for almost five years. BL love is real love. photo is huge.

NSFW:

american apparel france has the best instagram. i don't know why i even bother to follow the united states one. the french use this french model all the time and her name is Kenickie and she looks like me and she has my dream life as the american apparel model for the french. i hate her.

 

[hydroazuanacaine]

don't want to wait until my next real post to say that photo of you and Pander is phenomenal. found the full size -- well, the 1280 pixel -- on your tumblr. don't see how any photo from the actual set could capture what's in that outtake.

 

[Kenickie]

thanks hydro. the opinion of this thread is the only one that matters. i have a huge copy. like 8K by 5K pixels or whatever. you can see all my pores and my fading finger tattoos.

i'm surprised you weren't over the moon about that valentino. that gentle, sheer, transparent delicacy. screaaaaams hydrozuanacaine.

how soon till i can wear my transparent american apparel blouse to meetings? i've got leeway because i'm press and press is supposed to be looked at but what is the decent level of sheer? will valentino change it all for us??

she shouldn't be wearing panties.

the belt says something like the extent of unconscious water.

 

[modelskinny]

Found some backstage shots of me wearing Michael Costello from fashion week in LA a few weeks ago. I've come to the conclusion that I am not crazy about that specific dress. It's a bummer because some of his gowns are truly stunning.

 

[modelskinny]

And I must add, I fucking hate LA Fashion Week. It just can't even compare. Le sigh.

 

[THECATINTHEHAT]

Been keeping my vintage tacky tracksuit jacket collection stocked after losing a few items%)

 

[JoeTheStoner]

^ i can't wait to wear my puma tracksuit for days on end this winter.

Found some backstage shots of me wearing Michael Costello from fashion week in LA a few weeks ago. I've come to the conclusion that I am not crazy about that specific dress. It's a bummer because some of his gowns are truly stunning.

dress aside, the hair/make up looks dope. i remember michael costello from project runway, surprised he has so many instagram followers he seemed genuine on the show, glad he found success after the show.

 

[Kenickie]

UGH i'm so hungover. SO I WATCHED MALEFICENT.

why didn't anyone tell me that it's a rape revenge movie!? the misandry! i was like salivating the whole time it was so fantastic. i mean damn. that dude straight up date rapes her, but instead of sex its her wings. as a feminist i had a wonderful time. johanna fateman wrote a good piece about the feminist stuff happening in that movie, and with lana del rey's music as a choice. i was going to post something else but it's now been hours.

 

[JoeTheStoner]

o, reading your post and that piece ya linked makes me wanna watch it sooner rather than later. i love when kids movies have an "adult" take on dark subject matter.

amusing piece Tears, Shears, and Adderall: My Life As a Parsons Fashion Student

They just started a new class on the gothic, and it fills up immediately. There was this subculture in the '80s with this dark, gothic perspective in music, and books, and I feel like there is a revival of that in the high-fashion scene now — a lot of people are really influenced by those themes. I see people posting images of skulls and witchcraft on Instagram, and those are the influences we see in Rick Owens. People are also really interested in Twin Peaks all of a sudden.

i'd imagine it's kinda depressing for a lot of college kids, spending so much money for school and then not able to land a job in the field ya studied, stuck with debt, etc... imagine paying all that money then ya working some shitty job at a fabric store. none of this matters to those rich kids tho, it's just cool be a fashion designer so...

recently been into the photography of erwin olaf

check his stuff @ http://wearesodroee.com/?s=erwin+olaf

 

[JoeTheStoner]

i want that chair @ 0:58

 

[Kenickie]

Grimes in Rodarte for New York Times.

I don't know what is going on lately.