• BASIC DRUG
    DISCUSSION
    Welcome to Bluelight!
    Posting Rules Bluelight Rules
    Benzo Chart Opioids Chart
    Drug Terms Need Help??
    Drugs 101 Brain & Addiction
    Tired of your habit? Struggling to cope?
    Want to regain control or get sober?
    Visit our Recovery Support Forums
  • BDD Moderators: Keif’ Richards | negrogesic

Why is ghetto crack stronger than my DIY freebase?

Status
Not open for further replies.
I erred when I called these solvent carcinogenic. I still would avoid high exposures if for no other reason than the fact these vapors are extremely flammable to explosive. I never used diethyl ether recreationally.
I always preferred petroleum ether to diethyl ether. I think there are qualitative differences to their end products although these may just be my subjective experiences. Petroleum ether seemed to preserve more of the original's essence.
The trials where I tried acetone produced eye watering, unpleasant experiences to be avoided.

My thoughts about particle size are that thin, fine and flakey crystals are harder to vaporize at a slower and more controlled rate than substantial crystalline blocks.
This is especially relevant if one is using an open flame heat source to vaporize your product.
Pipe design and temperatures used in vaporization effect efficiency of drug delivery considerably.
 
Last edited:
When cocaine gets wet (from being dissolved in water, absorbing moisture from the air, or whatever) it breaks down to benzoylecgonine, which is inactive as a stimulant but still has all the same physical properties as coke and is a numbing agent too.

Ether does actually dissolve water in it, and liquids always get more intimate contact than solids do. When you rock up cocaine with baking soda in water, the water has a high ionic strength and the cocaine base pops right out and can't make contact with the water. Whereas cocaine free base dissolved in ether can make intimate contact with water molecules, so will actually react faster with any moisture and go to shit quickly. Especially if there's any acidic or basic catalysts around.

Solution: make sure to work quickly with ether, and dry your ether solution of coca with anhydrous magensium sulphate or something - ASAP. Before any water can blow that ester linkage apart.
 
When cocaine gets wet (from being dissolved in water, absorbing moisture from the air, or whatever) it breaks down to benzoylecgonine, which is inactive as a stimulant but still has all the same physical properties as coke and is a numbing agent too.

.

As a tangent, reading this part made me curious--so if you were to dissolve cocaine hcl with the intent on Iving it but say you for whatever reason do not IV it right away, will it significantly lose strength?
 
Very useful info and resource sekio and Laughing Man. Thanks!

I was careless with the ether. I let it evaporate on a very wide dish, producing thin fragile flakes and allowing maximum exposure to air after evaporation. I knew this would hurt yield and product but not significantly so. I also sometimes let the dish sit for hours while I was out.

However, Laughing Man, you've motivated me to just perfect the baking soda recipe and I'm almost there. Here's what I have been doing with excellent success. Product as fine as the one I spoke highly of in the original post.

This is for producing a small amount (maybe about 5 adult lung fulls, or 3 bell ringers?) This assumes very pure cocaine hcl! If you know your product is very impure, try an acetone wash or compensate the ratios.)

I'm writing this as simply as possible.. The important part is letting the mixture in the spoon cool.

* Take 150 mg of pure cocaine Hcl. This will ideally be an oily almost pastie rock or smashed rock (good coke rocks are soft and do not crumble into pieces that scatter everywhere.)

* Take 30 mg baking soda (fresher is better. left open in the fridge it will absorb moisture and get heavier.)

* Put both onto a dry clean metal spoon. You now have ~180 mg of powder on a spoon.

* Saturate a tissue paper and squeeze 2-3 drops into the spoon. Swirl around until everything dissolves. It will be a runny liquid.

* Light a candle, place spoon above candle flame (maybe 6-12" away?) until you begin to see solution bubble. Swirl once, move spoon away from heat and let the bubbling continue. Do not swirl, touch, poke or add anything. Just wait for the spoon to cool down naturally. This is IMPORTANT. It means just holding the spoon in your head away from any heat or fan and letting it become cold at room temperature.

* You now have a whitish paste stuck on the spoon. Touch the bottom of the spoon. Is it cold? If not, wait longer.

* Take the cold spoon back to the candle and slowly let it warm up again. Be careful as you want a gentle heating of the paste stuck to the spoon. Slowly just keep moving the spoon to get it evenly hot. STOP if you see any smoke or something burning!

* It's going to be solid and NO water is needed. Just continue adding heat and after a minute the white paste will begin to shrink and become liquid. Slowly and gently keep moving the spoon in small bits to avoid directly burning what's inside the spoon.

* When the majority of solids have dissolved in the liquid (might see some bubbles too), you may see either just a weird looking liquid OR blobs of oil floating around. Remove from heat. No more heat needed. When this cools, it becomes a solid. But before it cools, use a cold metal knife to touch these little blobs of oil. They will stick to the knife and cool relatively fast into a solid. Keep touching at the liquid until you get all of them.

Let the knife sit for a minute and then scrape off this mass. The liquid may even just solidify when it gets cold and leave you with a rock on its own. Now you have crack! You should place it in some water, remove and dry before smoking, to remove any salt/baking soda left over. These are water soluble and your crack is not so it won't dissolve in water.

Then place on screen in a short pipe, light gently until you hear sizzle and wheeee
 
I've been having major success with both baking soda and ammonia methods! I generally use both and then take .5g of assorted flakes/rocks, place them into a beaker of water, place that beaker into a pot of boiling water to avoid the beaker's internal temp going above 100C so the freebase doesn't evaporate away. After a few minutes, the beaker contains oil which comes together to form one solid glob of oil. I let this mixture cool and the rock becomes SOLID. I take it out, wash with water a little bit and dry. Then I smoke and OMG it's so good.

but I came across something. Here: http://www.bluelight.org/vb/threads...-coke-in-water-some-oil-sinks-some-oil-floats
 
well. Maybe this knowledge was better left in the dark, but if you're having trouble cooking up a batch or have any questions about the cooking process (w/ baking soda or ammonia or ammonia + ether or other), reply or message me and I'll explain the process in detail.

Converting Hcl to freebase requires nothing more than water, baking soda, good starting material and a little bit of heat. It's easy but once you try it there's no going back to lines really.

I started a thread on "the ideal freebase pipe" here:
http://www.bluelight.org/vb/threads...uot-crack-quot-)-pipe?p=12526484#post12526484
 
Last edited:
The baking soda method is a lie. Your method seems a little too complicated (I'll read again)... but it seem you say you still don't get the street yellowish crack, right?
Well, how the hell one makes the real thing...
Can't believe it's a hard thing...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top