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☛ Official ☚ [Mushrooms Subthread] Different Strains & Cultivation

Any of the ones that the mycilym is any other color than white (unless it is just the vermiculite you are seeing, of course) need to be discarded. Do not even open them or you risk spreading contamination to future grows. Also, three weeks is not too long. It often takes over a month for them to colonize if the temperature is not right.
 
It should be a 1/1 ratio of distilled water to ammonia. So spray the growth directly. And ammonia is most effective, but bleach can be substituted with thr same ratio
 
just need to know seen people do it two ways should i use a layer of tinfoil between perlite and colonized substrate cakes in fruiting chamber or no and just lay the cakes directly on top of the perlite without the tinfoil? was palnning on doin this and starting next step today so hopefully someone can give me an answer fairly quickly?
 
Personally I always made a little coaster out of foil. Apparently the perlite can be too wet for direct contact and this can invite more contamination where the mycelium is weaker. I have no clue how 'risky' it is without the foil. My idea was: better safe than sorry.
 
injecting into BRF cakes?

im in the beginning phase of trying to colonize my BRF cakes. I know water content of cakes has been disputed, depending on what forum you browse. But they look somewhat dry to me, and i was wondering if anyone has ever injected additional water from a sterile syringe after innoculating the cake? and if it proved successful. also, if anyone knows any additional nutrients or growth boosters that could be injected alone,or mixed with the water to stimulate a faster colonization that would be much appreciated
 
Never injected additional water, did you follow the pf tek if it is the first time would just follow that to the letter. Did you add a bit of dry vermiculite at the top as a barrier? As that will be very dry.
 
I added the top Verm layer to each cake, also I boiled wheat berries in distilled water until they were just soft and wet, then added them to the cake ingredients before I pressure cooked it. So I guess that's some additional moisture included whatever they sacked in through the holes punched in the jar lid during a 90 min pressure cooking
 
Also - I added 5ml per cake, so maybe it's possible that that amount of liquid from the spore syringe will add the extra moisture needed?
 
I hope you soaked the wheat berries in water overnight before doing anything else with them. You need to germinate endospores in them to be able to kill them properly by boiling.

You start out with the BRF verm mix being field capacity. That's how much water you put in as a rather general rule and you shouldn't need any more. Adding wheat berries should be fine unless you add them so soaking wet that it floods everything.

I don't see why technically adding sterile water shouldn't work, but I'd just start out with field capacity (compress some substrate in your hand, a little water should run out, but only make a little stream for a second or to and then drip).

AFAIK brf contains most things, but perhaps you can add gypsum for sulfate. yeast extract is also a possibility for nutrients. But what makes brown rice brown is among other things the bran. You can add bran to substrates that lack the proteins etc in them, but with BRF it's not necessary. Since I think BRF has a lot in it, maybe don't add too much of anything extra.

Liquid from spore syringe should be semi-negligible compared to the total water. Go for field capacity for starters.
 
i've also heard that melatonin, honey, or k*ro corn syrup (cant mention brands) can also boost the health of your cake, as well as produce higher yields. The honey thing puzzles me because honey is an organic antiseptic, anti-bacterial AND anti-fungal substance, so i really cant comprehend how that would do anything beneficial, aside from introducing natural sugars which i know mushrooms seem to like. Still seems like a paradox to me, but i'd like to try melatonin, tryptophan, brewers yeast, and corn syrup at some point down the road. Not all immediately, obviously but over the course of a year or two of harvests i may just designate an "experimental" jar and log the results.

Thank you for the info Solipsis, that really does help :)
 
I didnt soak the wheat berries overnight, i put them in a sterilized pot, with a distilled water, at a ratio of about 1 to 2.25 (berry to water) let them come to a boil, and boiled them until they soaked up almost all the water. they werent mushy or waterlogged, but they were definitely soft and grew twice the size they were when they were dry due to absorption. once i tossed them in with the verm, millet, and BRF - it made for a pretty chunky substrate. not the least bit runny, and quite porous when i spooned it into the jars




I hope you soaked the wheat berries in water overnight before doing anything else with them. You need to germinate endospores in them to be able to kill them properly by boiling.

You start out with the BRF verm mix being field capacity. That's how much water you put in as a rather general rule and you shouldn't need any more. Adding wheat berries should be fine unless you add them so soaking wet that it floods everything.

I don't see why technically adding sterile water shouldn't work, but I'd just start out with field capacity (compress some substrate in your hand, a little water should run out, but only make a little stream for a second or to and then drip).

AFAIK brf contains most things, but perhaps you can add gypsum for sulfate. yeast extract is also a possibility for nutrients. But what makes brown rice brown is among other things the bran. You can add bran to substrates that lack the proteins etc in them, but with BRF it's not necessary. Since I think BRF has a lot in it, maybe don't add too much of anything extra.

Liquid from spore syringe should be semi-negligible compared to the total water. Go for field capacity for starters.
 
Hey mox!

Yeah it's weird how some of these hobbies can just go away and pick up again... but for me plenty of interests see some rich days due to me not having major problems anymore and still time to spare (though I help out at two very cool places now)..

I assume you are talking about Cubensis, they do have a consolidation period prescribed which is not all that long. But actually if you look at gourmet mushrooms there are bunches that have ripening periods of often a month long or sometimes even several, so yeah that is after the colonization. Hard to say really why you had such a poor grow, I'd need quite some descriptions of what's going on at different points during the process.
At this rate I am getting more experienced with gourmet species perhaps, also because it kind of feels like most are a step up from Cubensis... so I am not an authority on Cubes anyway.

If by incubation you mean consolidation then sure a few days up to a week should be good, typically I'd say incubation means letting a culture run on agar or just letting spawn or bulk substrate colonize which is not really optional. Getting enough batches going making no difference, do you mean if you do a lot of tries at the same time there should be some successes among them? Well while redundancy is used to keep things under control, I don't think it is a way to offset bad grows where you are not really sure what the problem is - you'd better find out what the problem is instead so that you don't waste a lot of time and resources.

I don't remember much about having to trigger pinning on Cubensis esp in difficult ways, but I am finding out more and more about the intricacies with gourmet mushrooms and how they do require it, usually by cooling.

Yield is not related to colonization rate afaik except maybe there is a correlation between the two when it is due to general vigor... but say with gourmet mushrooms on wood you can get quicker fruits pumped out when using fine sawdust whereas the bigger coarser wood chips you use the longer it will keep growing and fruiting and the potential yield may go up but it can take a lot of time and seems pretty inefficient to try and capitalize on that - the best seems to be a moderate mix with most of it still being on the finer side.

The mycoponics just involve using humid CO2 rich air exhausted from growing mushrooms to grow plants, for me especially plants which love unusually humid climates. Though still the air probably needs to be dehumidified / only partially let in etc because otherwise it would be too humid for plants (like Novo's and kratom). It is not an original idea apparently but that doesn't matter. For me at home it would be awesome and where I work it can still serve as a pretty sweet installation although for a demo I have a much different design in mind, more integrated.

You can check out the packaging from Ecovative: https://shop.ecovativedesign.com/collections/packaging

I'd be totally down for some more discussion, on what we'd have to narrow that down? Here is the shroom cultivation thread: http://www.bluelight.org/vb/showthread.php?t=378996 but of course it is not meant for gourmet growing talk, there are subthreads like for magic truffles which I am also working on, but apparently not yet for woodlovers which is a bigger challenge and bigger focus for me. Anyway if you post there I'll join you. People who wanna IM about growing mushrooms can PM me.

Hey Solipsis!

Yes I am working with cubes, I'm familiar with the consolidation period needed and typically allow a week after the cakes are fully colonized to the eye, I'm at least 90% sure it was not allowing that period that resulted in so few fruits. I got pretty excited haha and birthed them early.

When I use the term incubation I know it as referring to providing optimal conditions for consolidation vs. leaving substrate in ambient conditions. The substrate will colonize as long as it's within a certain temperature band (something like 22-30 degrees celsius I think?) but this will occur most quickly between 26 and 28 degrees (again IIRC). IME though increasing heat to this point also increases favourable conditions for undesirable bacteria and gives a higher rate of infection.

When I spoke about getting multiple batches going to make it quicker I meant in this sense:

If I have some substrate I just inoculated, say it takes 8 weeks at ambient temperature to colonize fully. If I were to incubate them they might take only 6 weeks to get to that point. If, as you agree, colonization time doesn't influence yield, then I could stagger batches of substrate such that six weeks (e.g.) after I inoculate one batch, I have another batch ready to birth, thereby getting the same yield from less investment due to no cost of incubation.

The mycoponics is definitely a cool idea, I love the whole concept of natural farming/permaculture. Especially something like trying to incorporate it into indoor environments would be such a satisfying project and I can totally see using mycoponics like that.
 
The point of soaking grains and other bulk substrates for 1-2 days is that it allows for endospores in the grains to germinate - bacteria and molds which protect themselves by being in dehydrated spore form and/or well inside grains. Germinating them makes them actually vulnerable to sterilizing conditions, if not you have increased chances of contamination. Not well enough sterilized substrate can appear okay for quite a while but the contamination can get out of hand later although you wouldn't realize that it had been in there all along.

Room temperatures of like 20-25 should be fine for colonization / incubation, I agree too high temperatures probably just promote contaminations especially if you are not working with professional conditions. It's 20C in my home without having to do much about and I haven't yet built an incubator for petri dishes. If I were to build a bigger one I would want it to be able to cool too in order to induce pinning etc with it.

As far as I know Cubensis is really eager to fruit well and doesn't really require ripening. Short colonization is only supposed to make it stronger I think. Did you do something special to induce a big pinset like a cold shock or did you just go for it? There are specific conditions which trigger the different stages of growth. Light is not really much of a trigger though you do need some for a big part of the grow.
 
Yeah I mean I did everything identically to previous grows that went well except that I birthed the cakes early (not working with bulk substrate yet), and the ambient temperature/humidity is lower.

As usual I did a 8-12h cold water dunk in the fridge and keep them in a room with enough ambient light (as well as putting in an LED at one point but it didn't change anything).

If short colonization does make the mycelium stronger then that is a good reason to try to figure out why mine have been taking so long
 
I grow my mushrooms in a martha:

20170716_030809.jpg


http://www.zwonko.com/lab/myco-lab

I don't mention psilocybes on there..

From what research I've yet read, you should be able to grow mushrooms well under blue LED especially if you can get a certain wavelength.

Are you growing in a shotgun fruiting chamber with perlite?
 
I've read some interesting stuff about using 5-15 mT magnetic fields to boost yields, I'm interested to try that at some point haha.

Blue LEDs make sense. Hey if they don't work they could still be used to battle SAD lol

My FC is not shotgunned, yes using perlite. I previously used an air pump but found I had to fan the cakes anyway. Now I just fan them manually and don't waste the extra power. There hasn't been any buildup of that white fuzz that happens when they don't breathe enough so I think that aspect is fine.
 
Sounds alright :)

You could share pics of your setup and describe again in detail how you do stuff if you wanna analyze some..

I'm not even sure what your substrate is exactly etc, you use regular PF tek? BRF, verm?

Seems like you could use some good holes in your FC stuffed with polyfill. IIRC i fitted my SGFC with fans underneath to blow air onto the perlite from below. Needs to be modular so you can remove the fans when watering. Maybe I have too much ADD to fan that much. What I also like is combining a fan with a proper filter, maybe polyester if enough layers (polyfill / hobby felt) or certain HEPA vacuum cleaner filters. If you use a fan, just make sure it's not blowing directly onto mushrooms or myc.
While I understand that this can quickly go to far for a simple FC, one of the better ways to ventilate humid air is to use a fan/blower, a filter, a humidifying component and something like an aquarium bubbler but not for underwater: basically tubing with holes in it, so the air is diffused really nicely.

I wake up to the light shining on my seedlings, hehe.. don't need that LED
 
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Seems it's been a while since this thread was used but just wanted to share with you some wonders in the world of shrooms.

Like I am fascinated by Psilocybe weraroa which is a ghostly pouch mushroom only from New Zealand. I'm trying to germinate it's spores right now.

19110204645_5da6708cfd_b.jpg


It stays closed and can't shoot out its spores. It seems to be a sort of ancient proto-shroom.

Other than that I'm growing this strange variety of cubensis: Enigma

240253486-46453110_262415117800159_8779038763637538816_n.jpg


But also not my pic - i'm close to getting there though.

Also Psilocybe zapotecorum which i am growing on part leaf litter from the local woods, trying to make my own substrate recipes and getting good at it.

21283

I built UV-C in it in order to be able to make mutants using radiation.

And i grew these Psilocybe cyanescens woodlovers last season on my balcony - all for the love of it :)

21284

Plus growing medicinal fungi and a lot of edibles, and even biopesticides for the bugs on my plants.
Going on excursion to hunt fungi frequently with a group.

I didnt choose this, they chose me <_> Wanna do weird but legit shit with fungi professionally so im working hard on that.

Discuss or share if you have anything to say about mushrooms.
 
Wow I had no idea some of those existed, how cool! I grew some Golden Teachers strain a while ago, it was my first time doing it properly. Fungus is fascinating. I also forage wild mushrooms whenever I hike, or try to anyway. There are a lot of wild edible mushrooms where I love. My favorite is chicken of the woods (Laetiporus sulphureus)
 
I've been lusting for my own backyard patch of Ps. cyanescens for the last 15 years. Never thought I would be able to make it happen...

Low and behold I go out for a walk this fall and there is a nice patch under one of my shrubs. Good thing I mulch. Now to multiply!
 
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