junkie skumbag
Bluelighter
Are you growing indoors or outdoors??? lol @ dealer naming his weed B
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[MEGA]Growing advice, tips, tricks and experience: Mark 3
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Are you growing indoors or outdoors??? lol @ dealer naming his weed B
Artificial Emotion
Bluelighter
Try this:
If you are in fact growing outside use the native soil if you can. Growing in the ground is the way forward if it's an option. Nothing replaces well prepared soil.
If you are in fact growing outside use the native soil if you can. Growing in the ground is the way forward if it's an option. Nothing replaces well prepared soil.
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Prelude2TragedyII
Bluelighter
- Joined
- May 8, 2004
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Taking cuttings from Northern Lights today and then placing it (the large plant) outside to grow and flower. It's 2 1/f feet tall, couldnt imagine how tall it'd be if I flower indoors. lol...
'medicine cabinet'
Bluelighter
ah, sorry...indoors, small closet set up with CFL's totaling about 400w.
on my first grow i yielded about an ounce from two plants from the same light set up, and this time it will only be one plant, so im hoping to harvest around the same amount.
on my first grow i yielded about an ounce from two plants from the same light set up, and this time it will only be one plant, so im hoping to harvest around the same amount.
Artificial Emotion
Bluelighter
^ if you can afford it I would try and get a better light i.e. an HID.
Most of the commercial mediums are peat/peat moss based so you'll get just as good results with a mix of peat moss, loam and silver sand mixed in equal parts with a bit of dolomite lime and some organic base fertilizer.
If you want to keep it simple use coir or go with an expensive medium sold at a grow shop if you want.
Most of the commercial mediums are peat/peat moss based so you'll get just as good results with a mix of peat moss, loam and silver sand mixed in equal parts with a bit of dolomite lime and some organic base fertilizer.
If you want to keep it simple use coir or go with an expensive medium sold at a grow shop if you want.
junkie skumbag
Bluelighter
ohhhhh myyyyy goooodddddd dude she is lookin sooooo sexy 
Cheers Junkie! I am very pleased with how she's pulled through 
Obviously her buds should be a bit fatter by this stage, but typically she's been held back after losing half her root mass. Im not complaining though, I never thought she'd pull up half as good as she has done :D
Obviously her buds should be a bit fatter by this stage, but typically she's been held back after losing half her root mass. Im not complaining though, I never thought she'd pull up half as good as she has done :D
Hey JoshE, thanks mate
I actually prefer the look of your buds over my girl atm. Yours are more developed and swollen, which I dont think my girl will be able to match. Your ladies also have alot more crystals then mine too. So by no means should you be dissapointed in the buds on your ladies, there going to be top notch guaranteed
Remember to take some shots before you chop your ladies aswell
I actually prefer the look of your buds over my girl atm. Yours are more developed and swollen, which I dont think my girl will be able to match. Your ladies also have alot more crystals then mine too. So by no means should you be dissapointed in the buds on your ladies, there going to be top notch guaranteed
Remember to take some shots before you chop your ladies aswell
Artificial Emotion
Bluelighter
Here's a few buds shots of my lady. Some photo's under a flash, others under normal day light. She'll be 6 weeks flower on monday with 2 more to go
NSFW:
What was the strain called again?
She's really fatting up now wise. I love the colours of the pistils.
Have you planned next year yet? Are you going to do more plants to spread the risk? Are you going to start from seed again or are you going to take a cut and make a mother plant?
Her stem is really thick (looks about an inch in diameter now!) now.
Just out of interest, where you live in Australia when does the growing season start and end usually?
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Artificial Emotion
Bluelighter
For people growing outside I have an interesting article you might find reading interesting. Obviously this is really only for people that have found a spot they intend to use for several years that they know is perfect (remote, south facing, open to the sunlight etc.) and not if they just want a quick harvest or if they've had to move their plant under difficult circumstances like wise unfortunately had to do when his plant was found 
In his case any way to get the plant growing is desirable and he seems to have done a good job so far, touch wood.
Anyway, a lot of people dig a hole in the soil and then fill it with stuff like potting compost (i.e. the stuff meant for containers that contains peat etc) and other ammendments like garden compost, peat moss or manure and possibly mix it in with the existing native soil from the ground as they plant the plant in the hole. However, this has been shown to only make things worse. At the beginning you'll get good results, but as the grow goes on the progress will not be anywhere as good as it could have been. I must admit for the longest time I myself used to backfill soil ammendments into the planting hole and really didn't know any better.
A much better strategy is to dig up the soil and mulch (a mulch is where you place your materials on the soil surface instead of digging it into the soil) as big an area as you can manage. If the drainage is still poor, then beside the area where the plant is in the soil, dig a large hole, place a PVC pipe with holes in it which is wrapped in cloth or landscaping fabric down on its side, and then fill up the hole with gravel or stones. The water from the soil the plant is in will naturally drain into the PVC pipe, away from the plant, meaning you avoid the sort of waterlogged conditions you've been wanting to prevent. The landscaping fabric wrapped around the pipe lets the water through but stops the soil from getting in.
If you mulch the whole area the previous autumn before planting, the worms will come to the surface and slowly eat/bring down the material into the soil and basically dig it in for you. In order to encourage the worms to multiply and thrive, you need to get the soil pH right from the start. Get a cheap chemical pH kit from your garden centre not those analogue mechanical meters which are notoriously inaccurate, and measure the pH. If it's too low (which is more likely in clay soils which are most common), add the appropriate amount of dolomite lime (not garden lime which is different) and dig in. This will sweeten the soil and make the worm population explode, which makes the soil better because of the effect they have. Dolomite lime will act as a buffer, meaning if the pH is low, it will tend to raise the pH towards 7, but won't raise it past this point and will continue to raise the pH towards this point if you add something acidic to the soil at some point during the grow. It also adds essential calcium and magnesium which are very often missing from nutrients.
Once you've planted your plant in the soil, mulch the whole area (roots will grow to about 6 feet in diameter when healthy) and give it a good soak (use loads of water, since most people end up just watering the surface soil which is pointless). This will seal in the moisture and improve yields significantly. Mulching is one of the most important things you can do for a whole number of reasons.
Adding things like perlite to the soil unfortunately won't improve drainage at all. On the american weed cultivation forums I too often see this used unecessarily in outdoor grows in the soil and it makes me feel like bashing my head against a brick wall!
I know this goes against what you may have been taught by other gardens, or perhaps have even read by 'experts' in gardening books, however a lot of these so called experts are still using practises such as using crocks in the bottom of the pot, which we have known does nothing for years now. They might argue people have been using this technique for 100 years and if it aint broke, don't fix it, but these people 100 years ago where the same ones using horses and carts. Why can't gardening progress like other fields such as medicine and engineering? If new information comes along that proves current ways of doing things can be replaced with more effective techniques then why not give up the old ways and have an open mind? I find some gardeners (not necessarily ganga growers, but gardeners in general) can be so close minded and unwilling to adopt new better ways of gardening. I find that if they've been told something by an 'expert' or read something in a gardening book they are often so unwilling to actually reason with. This is not directed at anyone here obviously, but I'm just talking about some of the sorts of people I've encountered in mainstream gardening circles and it drives me mad.
In his case any way to get the plant growing is desirable and he seems to have done a good job so far, touch wood.Anyway, a lot of people dig a hole in the soil and then fill it with stuff like potting compost (i.e. the stuff meant for containers that contains peat etc) and other ammendments like garden compost, peat moss or manure and possibly mix it in with the existing native soil from the ground as they plant the plant in the hole. However, this has been shown to only make things worse. At the beginning you'll get good results, but as the grow goes on the progress will not be anywhere as good as it could have been. I must admit for the longest time I myself used to backfill soil ammendments into the planting hole and really didn't know any better.
A much better strategy is to dig up the soil and mulch (a mulch is where you place your materials on the soil surface instead of digging it into the soil) as big an area as you can manage. If the drainage is still poor, then beside the area where the plant is in the soil, dig a large hole, place a PVC pipe with holes in it which is wrapped in cloth or landscaping fabric down on its side, and then fill up the hole with gravel or stones. The water from the soil the plant is in will naturally drain into the PVC pipe, away from the plant, meaning you avoid the sort of waterlogged conditions you've been wanting to prevent. The landscaping fabric wrapped around the pipe lets the water through but stops the soil from getting in.
If you mulch the whole area the previous autumn before planting, the worms will come to the surface and slowly eat/bring down the material into the soil and basically dig it in for you. In order to encourage the worms to multiply and thrive, you need to get the soil pH right from the start. Get a cheap chemical pH kit from your garden centre not those analogue mechanical meters which are notoriously inaccurate, and measure the pH. If it's too low (which is more likely in clay soils which are most common), add the appropriate amount of dolomite lime (not garden lime which is different) and dig in. This will sweeten the soil and make the worm population explode, which makes the soil better because of the effect they have. Dolomite lime will act as a buffer, meaning if the pH is low, it will tend to raise the pH towards 7, but won't raise it past this point and will continue to raise the pH towards this point if you add something acidic to the soil at some point during the grow. It also adds essential calcium and magnesium which are very often missing from nutrients.
Once you've planted your plant in the soil, mulch the whole area (roots will grow to about 6 feet in diameter when healthy) and give it a good soak (use loads of water, since most people end up just watering the surface soil which is pointless). This will seal in the moisture and improve yields significantly. Mulching is one of the most important things you can do for a whole number of reasons.
Adding things like perlite to the soil unfortunately won't improve drainage at all. On the american weed cultivation forums I too often see this used unecessarily in outdoor grows in the soil and it makes me feel like bashing my head against a brick wall!
I know this goes against what you may have been taught by other gardens, or perhaps have even read by 'experts' in gardening books, however a lot of these so called experts are still using practises such as using crocks in the bottom of the pot, which we have known does nothing for years now. They might argue people have been using this technique for 100 years and if it aint broke, don't fix it, but these people 100 years ago where the same ones using horses and carts. Why can't gardening progress like other fields such as medicine and engineering? If new information comes along that proves current ways of doing things can be replaced with more effective techniques then why not give up the old ways and have an open mind? I find some gardeners (not necessarily ganga growers, but gardeners in general) can be so close minded and unwilling to adopt new better ways of gardening. I find that if they've been told something by an 'expert' or read something in a gardening book they are often so unwilling to actually reason with. This is not directed at anyone here obviously, but I'm just talking about some of the sorts of people I've encountered in mainstream gardening circles and it drives me mad.
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She's Skunk#1 AE mate.
Ive got a pretty good idea of what im going to run next season and the rea im doing it in. The area im using those is full of rocks and im considering growing a few out in 52 litre containers. I used the containers last year with good success.
There also a couple holes in the ground near my current site after big tree's fell over and completely uprooted itself. All i need to do is throw my mix of soil into it and im sorted
Going to be going from seed, a clone may come into the picture but ive pretty much got enough strains sorted for now. The one's im thinking in my mind are Bubba Kush, Black Domina, Super Silver Haze, Nevilles Haze and Trainwreck and more then likely 5-10 other strains to choose from, but ill probabaly start them later on.
I think I might grow 4-5 main girls, then take clones later on or start more strains and throw a few of em into the 52 litre pots and basically mini sog em.
Ive got a pretty good idea of what im going to run next season and the rea im doing it in. The area im using those is full of rocks and im considering growing a few out in 52 litre containers. I used the containers last year with good success.
There also a couple holes in the ground near my current site after big tree's fell over and completely uprooted itself. All i need to do is throw my mix of soil into it and im sorted
Going to be going from seed, a clone may come into the picture but ive pretty much got enough strains sorted for now. The one's im thinking in my mind are Bubba Kush, Black Domina, Super Silver Haze, Nevilles Haze and Trainwreck and more then likely 5-10 other strains to choose from, but ill probabaly start them later on.
I think I might grow 4-5 main girls, then take clones later on or start more strains and throw a few of em into the 52 litre pots and basically mini sog em.
Artificial Emotion
Bluelighter
Cool.
When you say mini sog, how are you going to manage to do that outdoors? Are you planning on starting them really late in the season so they only have say a week's veg and then flower immediately to get the sog effect?
I can tell you from experience that Trainwreck is a good strain to grow.
If you can get your hands on any UGORG strains I would really strongly recommend at least trying one of their strains. Oldtimer is one of the people who started that seedbank and he's been growing for 50 odd years and has the original genetics from way back. When you buy SmellyBerry, little hands, oldtimes, killerskunk etc. you know that you're getting the undiluted weed that's a cut above the rest. The SmellyBerry has real original Blueberry phenotypes (not the copies that other banks are sellings as Blueberry) and their Bluez is amazing. I wish I could give you a cutting or something. But yeah, they are definitely worth trying and I bet you wouldn't be disapointed!
Unfortunately most of the strains you buy today are not genuine F1 hybrids (i.e. two crossed true breeding plants) but are an amalgamation of dozens of different strains (most having Skunk no1 i.e. the original) and many others. However, there are some plants that are different and haven't been diluted yet. You should try and get them while you still can because cannabis is not a protected species and the genetics is being destroyed buy inept people making hacks who have no business breeding in the first place. ugorg, Mr Nice and a couple of other companies are the only few that are genuinely selling unique genetics that haven't been pillaged by unscrupulous people.
If you want a good cheap strain Mr Nice Shit is so cheap. For the cost of about 4 pints of beer you can get 18 seeds and despite the low cost, it's a really good strain (I was smoking some the other day and really loved it!).
Anyway, I'm off to finish building my greenhouse and digging up some beds to grow all my fruit and veg for this year! Here are some seeds I bought yesterday which I intend to plant now!
When you say mini sog, how are you going to manage to do that outdoors? Are you planning on starting them really late in the season so they only have say a week's veg and then flower immediately to get the sog effect?
I can tell you from experience that Trainwreck is a good strain to grow.
If you can get your hands on any UGORG strains I would really strongly recommend at least trying one of their strains. Oldtimer is one of the people who started that seedbank and he's been growing for 50 odd years and has the original genetics from way back. When you buy SmellyBerry, little hands, oldtimes, killerskunk etc. you know that you're getting the undiluted weed that's a cut above the rest. The SmellyBerry has real original Blueberry phenotypes (not the copies that other banks are sellings as Blueberry) and their Bluez is amazing. I wish I could give you a cutting or something. But yeah, they are definitely worth trying and I bet you wouldn't be disapointed!
Unfortunately most of the strains you buy today are not genuine F1 hybrids (i.e. two crossed true breeding plants) but are an amalgamation of dozens of different strains (most having Skunk no1 i.e. the original) and many others. However, there are some plants that are different and haven't been diluted yet. You should try and get them while you still can because cannabis is not a protected species and the genetics is being destroyed buy inept people making hacks who have no business breeding in the first place. ugorg, Mr Nice and a couple of other companies are the only few that are genuinely selling unique genetics that haven't been pillaged by unscrupulous people.
If you want a good cheap strain Mr Nice Shit is so cheap. For the cost of about 4 pints of beer you can get 18 seeds and despite the low cost, it's a really good strain (I was smoking some the other day and really loved it!).
Anyway, I'm off to finish building my greenhouse and digging up some beds to grow all my fruit and veg for this year! Here are some seeds I bought yesterday which I intend to plant now!
NSFW:
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psychedelic_lsd_me
Bluelighter
Alright so the leaf is now green .... WTF dosent look damaged. But I got insects any advice on a cure besides other bugs ?
Artificial Emotion
Bluelighter
^ what kind of insects? Can you post a photo?
There are lots of different types of pest so identifying it is important.
There are lots of different types of pest so identifying it is important.
Prelude2TragedyII
Bluelighter
- Joined
- May 8, 2004
- Messages
- 1,206
Soap water! Weeeee
Or are they flowering
And what size, color is the bug, what marks is it leaving on the leaf if you can't provide a pic just try with an accurate description or google pictures of em and find them.
Or are they flowering
And what size, color is the bug, what marks is it leaving on the leaf if you can't provide a pic just try with an accurate description or google pictures of em and find them.
Artificial Emotion
Bluelighter
Why is bag seed bad?
Say a grower is growing regular F1 seeds. So the grower grows them until they start showing their sex, except me misses a male because he doesn't see it or is just too late, causing the females to become pollentated. Seeds then form as the calyxes swell and the buds form. He doesn't have sinsemilla bud as it's seeded. However, the parents of the seed are two F1s of the same hybrid, meaning you have no uniformity in the seed genetics and your results will be all over the place.
So, either buy new F1 seeds or get F2s and select the best individuals out of the population if you want to save a bit. Bag seed will always be hit and miss because the pollenated buds are an accident. They are not purposely and carefully selected and bred. I wouldn't even call it a hack.
Don't skimp on the cost of seeds. They don't have to be expensive. If you're not serious about your grow or you're eating-baked-beans-for-dinner-poor then maybe go with bag seed (that said, if you can afford dealer weed you can afford seeds). If you want quality genetics and therefore quality bud with the right care, then pay for your seeds from a decent seed bank!!
Say a grower is growing regular F1 seeds. So the grower grows them until they start showing their sex, except me misses a male because he doesn't see it or is just too late, causing the females to become pollentated. Seeds then form as the calyxes swell and the buds form. He doesn't have sinsemilla bud as it's seeded. However, the parents of the seed are two F1s of the same hybrid, meaning you have no uniformity in the seed genetics and your results will be all over the place.
So, either buy new F1 seeds or get F2s and select the best individuals out of the population if you want to save a bit. Bag seed will always be hit and miss because the pollenated buds are an accident. They are not purposely and carefully selected and bred. I wouldn't even call it a hack.
Don't skimp on the cost of seeds. They don't have to be expensive. If you're not serious about your grow or you're eating-baked-beans-for-dinner-poor then maybe go with bag seed (that said, if you can afford dealer weed you can afford seeds). If you want quality genetics and therefore quality bud with the right care, then pay for your seeds from a decent seed bank!!
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