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[MEGA] Every Year's Community Growing advice, tips, tricks, & experiences

Wolfgang/greenstar, I'm planning on trying to make ice hash this grow actually, if I can find a cheap non-branded set of bags. I think this is one of the easiest/most efficient ways of making hash. The good thing about it is that when you use 3-6 bags of different mesh size you get different grades of hash. If you use decent trichome-covered bud leaf and popcorn bud you can make A+ grade hash, the best possible.

I was wondering though, using an electric food whisker to stir the water/ice/trim mixture makes it easier and separates more of the trichomes from the vegetation, but if the ice cube are too big I think it can be too difficult to get the blades moving as they get stuck. So do you think crushing the ice up with a tea towel and a mallet would make it easier? Do you think doing this is possible?

I was also thinking of making one of those cylindrical drum things made from a fine screen like a tumble dryer that sifts kief out using centrifugal force from the spin of an electric motor but I suspect just making ice hash would be more effective and easier.

I wonder what I should do with the lower grade ice hash that's made from the coarser screen size. I guess I could make better higher grade hash oil using an ISO wash on it. What do you reckon?

Also what do you guys think about drying bud on those fabric screens? I bought a drying rack with soft fabric washable porous screens but I'm starting to wonder whether it would be better to avoid allowing the bud to come into contact with anything by just drying them by hanging them in a string in mid air. Any thoughts on this?
 
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^ The more bags you have the more work is involved, but you are right about the different grades of hash. I believe the 25 micron is one of the smallest bags possible and it consistently produces A+ grade bubble hash (in the Netherlands I believe they call it Dutch Moonshine). Of course the 70 micron is good bubble hash as well, and you will get more hash from that than you will from the 25.

About the food whisker; I have heard mixed reviews about using it. Obviously, you are going to be saving yourself some time and work by using it but I have also heard of people going too far with it. I guess there is a possibility that if you use it for too long you end up breaking down the cannabis greens and leafy stuff so fine that it doesn't get filtered and it actually can ruin/downgrade your quality of hash. Your other option is to stir the work bag by hand (with a big spoon or something), which is suppose to work well, but obviously that takes a lot more effort and time.

I'm sure with a little practice, you could figure out a nice middle ground to work with the food whisker and the spoon by hand. If you do it by hand, you don't have to worry about breaking up the ice as much, but if you use the whisker you are going to need to break the ice up a bit. Just some thoughts for you to consider.
 
w01fg4ng said:
^ The more bags you have the more work is involved, but you are right about the different grades of hash. I believe the 25 micron is one of the smallest bags possible and it consistently produces A+ grade bubble hash (in the Netherlands I believe they call it Dutch Moonshine). Of course the 70 micron is good bubble hash as well, and you will get more hash from that than you will from the 25.

About the food whisker; I have heard mixed reviews about using it. Obviously, you are going to be saving yourself some time and work by using it but I have also heard of people going too far with it. I guess there is a possibility that if you use it for too long you end up breaking down the cannabis greens and leafy stuff so fine that it doesn't get filtered and it actually can ruin/downgrade your quality of hash. Your other option is to stir the work bag by hand (with a big spoon or something), which is suppose to work well, but obviously that takes a lot more effort and time.

I'm sure with a little practice, you could figure out a nice middle ground to work with the food whisker and the spoon by hand. If you do it by hand, you don't have to worry about breaking up the ice as much, but if you use the whisker you are going to need to break the ice up a bit. Just some thoughts for you to consider.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I too have heard about the issues caused by whisking too forcefully. I think I'll use it but do it in stages by whisking for a short while and harvesting the resulting kief for hash-making and then carry on for a further while so I can harvest a further lower-quality batch amd so on.

I am tempted to make a clothes-dryer style kief making tumbler, as shown in this thread. I'm keen on making the process as easy and quick as possible as I'm growing under a 1kW light, meaning I'll potentially have quite a lot of hash to make. Click here to view the Trich Tumbler.
 
yo my POWER WENT OUT guys

i think for about 6 hours.

what happens to my timers? should i reset them? i had it set up to when the day ends and it starts to get cold my lights come on. Will they come on later now? sooner?


i am having a hard time figuring out what effect this is going to have on the timing If any. I have one of those mechanical timers, but i think they still need current.
I am just gonna go up and check when they usually would come on, and turn them on if need be
what does everyone else do when the power goes out?
 
AE. if you have an electric toothbrush you can try taping a plastic spoon to it for agitation.

And fuck drying on screen unless you want your buds flat on one side, cut at base of stem and hang the entire plant.
 
Well, if your power was out for 6 hours , your timer will be behind 6 hours, so,

Adjust the timer,
Put everything 6 hours ahead (as it all fell 6 hours behind)


Or just reset it from zero and put it back at the same times you had it.
Unless you dont know the exact time

And last time that happened to me, I was gone when we had the power outage, or my rooms breaker went off, but,
My timer was about 3-4 hours behind, I got home, and my lights also come on when its cold too, so , it was getting dark, got cold, and I didnt see lights turn on at 9:30 like usual, so , I flipped them on at 9:45 and just adjusted the timer to be 12/12 again,
Some times , if Im lazy, ill just set the timer for 12 hours, and if my light doesnt come on, speed the time up on the timer and just turn them on myself. then, you dont have to adjust your timer, if it was say 18/6 or 12/12, and you know when your lights come on, just flip them on at that time ( I dont have a digital timer, just the spinning ones, and if you have the same kind, just spin it till the lights flip on when they are supposed to come on and you'll be back to normal)


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Also, guys, When Ive been flushing my plants, should I be flushing with RO, or Tap water.
Also, After flushing, do I just let them dry out then give them food during the next water?
Anyone willing to help me out here, Ive asked about 3 times, feel like Im getting ignorned

Also, I did end up flushing most of my plants with water(tap)
I sprayed their leaves with foliar spray, some very small leaves, closer by the stem(where the bud would be) has started to turn green, though, Im not sure if this new healthy growth(I would assume it is because the tips are yellow and the rest is coming in green, I could be wrong, because the tops are still completely yellow, (Except for next to the stem, where the leaves are JUST coming out)

Should I still be aiming for ppm around 800 or moving up to 1100-1500? Or maybe 1100 for the larger plants and 700-800 for the smaller ones? idk...
 
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You are talking about flushing to remove excess salts from the rootzone?

If so you can use your RO water or tap water if its good, after flushing you can give a weak feed sure.

Depending on type of nute deficiency leaves may or may not green up again and it sounds like things are improving.

Using ppms is pointless, all meters only measure EC and use a conversion factor to calculate ppm, depending on manafacturer there are 3 different conversion factors so using EC means everyones on the same page. just make things easier.

idk what you should be feeding your plants, too many variables however I grow low EC EC1 for veg and EC1.4 for flower, (look into nutrient response curves)
 
minddetergent. said:
AE. if you have an electric toothbrush you can try taping a plastic spoon to it for agitation.

And fuck drying on screen unless you want your buds flat on one side, cut at base of stem and hang the entire plant.
Click to expand...

Well I'm planning on turning them at regular intervals throughout the day anyway to encourage even drying, so that may or may not prevent flattening of the buds. I've only ever dried using the regular hanging method so I'll try both just to see which works best. But yeah, I know from experience what you mean about the buds becoming flat, lol.

I've found out about something similar to your toothbrush idea which might work even better - one of those paint mixing bits that fit onto a power drill. I think the torque and arrow-like shape (in comparison to a food mixer which has two separate mixers attached rather than one) should make mixing a lot easier if the ice puts up any sort of resistance.

Prelude, why can't you just set the timers to the right time I they're out? Or am I missing something? As for the effect on the plants, don't worry. Just carry on like normal and it won't have any noticeable effect.
 
minddetergent. said:
Using ppms is pointless, all meters only measure EC and use a conversion factor to calculate ppm, depending on manafacturer there are 3 different conversion factors so using EC means everyones on the same page. just make things easier.
Click to expand...

I wholeheartedly agree with this. It can hard to know what reading a person is actually giving when they give ppms as opposed to EC or TDS. Your ppm reading can be completely different from mine for the reason stated. EC readings are universal so please try and give your reading in this unit if you can Prelude, otherwise it's kind of hard to help.

Prelude, after flushing, which can be with tap water or RO water (no need to ph adjust unless you have heavily contaminated water) , I would suggest letting your compost dry out a bit, like you would do anyway between waterings, and then proceed to use half strength feed for the next couple of waterings. Then carry on feeding as usual, Prelude.

Once again, if you give your nutrient concentration in terms of EC (electrical conductivity, or how well your nutrient solution conducts electricity between the carbon electrodes of your meter), then I'll be able to help better. In flower I would aim for an EC of about 1.4-1.8, but you really need to let your plants tell you whether they need feeding or not. If the leaves show a slight nutrient deficiency then they're telling you that the plant needs feeding and it's a signal to add a little bit more feed. This way you can titrate your nutrient concentration to the correct level and avoid burning your plants. This is a very important skill growers should master. Until then avoiding the use of additives in general is usually wise IMO.

Edit: I forgot to say, Prelude, when your plants are starting to show flowers you need to avoid foliar sprays of any kind whatsoever, even if it's just on the leaves. Spraying flowering plants is a big no no as this is one of the most common ways of causing bud rot. It's really important to avoid doing this at all costs if you can, Prelude. I just thought I'd warn you just in case you weren't aware.
 
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Hey AE, for making some really top quality bubble hash ive always seen the best results from a slow stirring method using a big spoon. This way if you are using dry trim you will get much, much less vegatative matter in your final product. Full melt all the way. Usually my buddy just uses 3 of the bubble bags, not sure on the sizes though.
 
Yep, 3 bags is good enough. Large 5 gal bucket (Home Depot), water and plenty of ice. Stir for about 30-40 mins, then take out first bag...throw out that crap, keep stuff from 2nd bag and the cream of the crop is the last bag!! Then we usually do a 2nd spin and still get plenty of primo trich's.

Last time I made bubble hash from my trim, my buddy helped me (as it was my first time making it), plus we split the cost of the bags..they were $80. I wound up with 16 grams of yummy blonde bubble hash :)

The mistake alot of people make is pressing the hash right away...BIG MISTAKE..all you are doing is pushing the moisture into the hash which makes it take much longer to dry. INSTEAD...

I scraped everything out of the bags onto a plate and chopped it up into little bits..almost as if you are chopping up an oxy or coke or something..just basically get the glob into a bunch of tiny pieces and spread it out all over the plate...let it dry for a few days... then a really important part...

Take all the dried pieces of your hash and stick it in a plastic bag (depending on how much you have a ziplock sandwich bag will suffice...run it under hot water..this will melt all the dried hash together..work the hash with your fingers as it is under the hot water so it is all mushed together...then stick the bag directly into the freezer for a while...the hash will come right out of the plastic bag in one huge beautiful piece!!! :)
 
Has any tried making bubble hash with just very very cold water? I will use my bubbleator as the back and forth motion(spin one way then the other)is excellent for knocking trics off but trics surely must get smashed up by the ice?
 
NSFW:
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G13



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Sour Diesel


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My Northern Lights Seedling(in back)



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Mostly the plants that had Iron Def.



They are about 2 1/2 weeks into flowering, going for about 60 days, 63, I like late harvest.

Anywho,
Do these plants look like they are coming back at all?
I have flushed with tap, and my last water was with nutes, so, idk if that was right, or wrong, but , yeah, thats whats going on at the moment.
 
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I think you'll find your plants have suffered from some light bleaching, I recognise the look of the top of the colas, now maybe your nute problem is the reason for this appearance but did you assume you only had one problem?

What HPS is that and how far is it from the tops?
 
Umm, I dont think its light bleaching because its only a 600 watt, and the plants are 8-12 inches away from the light.

Ive had light bleaching problems in the past, and they just started showing up in random places. Also, I dont see how plants 16 inches away from the light could experience light bleaching (the same symptoms the rest of them are suffering)And this problem slowly progressed from top to bottom, rather than bottom to top. The only plant that didn't suffer this problem was the Afghan Kush. The Northern lights started to show symptoms, but they quickly went away.

Guess Ill move the light up to see if anything changed if thats the problem?
Are you pretty sure thats the problem or is it just a guess, cause it looks like they just started to push out some green leaves instead of yellow , dont wanna screw up that new growth if its healthy.

Also, the temps are 69-73 degrees.
RH is about 20-30%
All plants have been flushed.
Fed plants with Big Bloom and Tiger Bloom, mixed in a small ammount of micronutrients. PPM was about 900. , wondering if I should move my ppm up or down/stay where it is?
pH was 6.0-6.3
 
I'm suggesting the tops could be bleached(and 600 8 inches a way can do that)closer isn't always better .alongside the other problem but it could have just been due to the iron deficiancy but the very tops of the buds have the same look that I've seen with bleaching under l.e.d, just wanted to point that out.

From what I can tell your in soil? You would get better plants simply switching to coco and its much easier to deal with nute probs in coco.
 
I wasn't saying that your wrong,
Ill move up the lights and see what it does, I just figured that a plant being 16 inches away from the light and still experincing the same symptoms

I just had some HPS chart that showed lumens to inches, but yeah, Ill try 10-11 inches.

I did my last grow in coco, everything went much better up until flowering time, everything went to hell for some reason.
Kinda like this time, except, within 6 months, the buds were the size that they are now on my 2 week plants.

But yea, just wanted to make sure I wasn't coming off in the wrong way.



I've used an EC meter, that I had borrowed from a friend, I kinda just messed with with EC readings of the water and saw what my meter would read them as because my meter does only read ppm (I do have an EC/Salinity meter on the way though)
I've just been shooting for about ec of 1.9-2.2, which on my meter was reading around 900-1100 at the time.
 
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I didn't think you were suggesting i was wrong, the emphasis was me saying its possible not definate!
 
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