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[MEGA]Community Growing advice, tips, tricks, & experiences Part 4

The best way to get outdoor bud as fast as possible is to use the blacking out technique. I find a dust bin (trash can!) works well for this. You just place the trash can over the plant so that you ensure it is in complete darkness for at least 12 hours per day. You must do this every day at the same time, aiming to harvest mid summer when UV light levels are highest preferrably, so that THC levels are the highest possible and will produce bud better than pretty much any weed grown under light. This technique is called force flowering.

Pre-grow it indoors until the plant is showing pre-flowers, at which point it is ready to have cuttings taken from it. You can then grow as many plants as you need if the plant is large enough. You should never force flower a plant that is not yet sexually mature, which is why you need to wait for pre-flowers to show first.
 
Aw I wish I could just link to Overgrow, but you know.
Either buy or download the torrent for Jorge Cervantes grow guide 2 there's an excellent section about outdoor and guerilla growing.
 
Seems like they are loving their new space. Must feel like changing from man slips to boxershorts for them ;)

Also I think I got atleast 2 females.
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Also the two KC33xlowryder's are both some sort of mutants I think because on each node only one branch is really pronounced while the other branch just doesn't grow any bigger.


For the LED discussion:

I think the truth lies in between, ofcourse you have to see anything with a grain of salt, but I've read equally shitty argumentations on the anti-LED side too. Someone even claimed that the photons from LEDs and CFL's move SLOWER and therefore can't reach through the canopy.
What ruins the whole LED game at the moment is that there isn't anyone reputable actually doing something about it. If HID-Lights were made from dodgy chinese vendors there would be equally shitty HID's I believe.

Oh well, it all comes down to researching, researching, researching...more so with LEDs than with any other light system.
 
Here's a great post you should take a look at. The idea that LED grow lights = cooler watt for watt is a myth. An low wattage light will be cooler than a powerful HID, LED or not.

I and others here have spent so much time trying to get new growers to not waste their money on LEDs, I thought it would be best to have a topic on why they are not any good for growing cannabis. Bottom line is that they are not intense enough and cost too much.

I'm not going to bother with mentioning all of the unfinished LED grows diaries here, or the dismal results gotten by folks brave enough to finish a LED grow diary (oops I just did). However I do invite knowledgeable growers with experience to share their views and for the scientific and technical minded out there to share their disciplined knowledge in refuting the claims made by LED sales people and manufacturers.

What I want to do is share some information I have recently gotten ahold of. I was recently at a buildings trade show and picked up some trade show magazines on architectural LED lighting. What I found, despite the obvious hype you would expect, (trade shows are, after all, just portable/temporary shopping malls specific to that trade, with a few classes and speeches thrown in) is some very interesting and real world tests and analysis.

The magazines I'll be taking quotes from are LEDs Magazine June, 2011 and BeLight volume 7, 2011.

Here we go.

LEDs Magazine:

The first article to catch my eye was one titled, Field trials of LED outdoor lighting demonstrate benefits to potential adopters. The article was written by Philip Jessup, Director of International Lighting for The Climate Group. An orginization looking at technology to help us reduce emissions world wide. A nice sounding name, but basically a front for a group of businesses trying to muscle in by using climate change as a motivator. IMO.

Anyway. These folks conducted astudy of several cities (NY, London, etc) who are trialing LED units for street lights and other municipal areas (garages, tunnels). New York cities DOT (department of transportation) has liked the results so far and are buying more units.

Quote
...that among the nine LED products tested, several have exhibited excellent performance over the past year, matching or approaching the illuminence of the baseline while delivering significant energy savings, very good lumen maintenance and negliagable color (CCT) degradation.

Emphasis mine.

The key note here I want to underline is that this study only lasted a year. This theme will come up again.

In Canada they did a study using LEDs and T5s (fluro). Apparently the LEDs couldn't do it on their own. ;) The study was for about 2.5 years this time. In this study, they found that the publics perception and acceptance of the lighting to be very good. Residents thought they were brighter than the HPS fixtures that had been there despite a designed reduction in illuminance by about 20-30%.

The article concludes by saying that public perception of LED luminares was good and was a driving factor in acceptance by politicians. However cost still remained a significant hurdle.

Another article is by Maury Wright, the senior technical editor of LEDs Magazine. This is about the city of Raleigh in North Carolina (USA) which is one of th efirst cities to adopt LED lighting for street lights, through a partnership with Cree. The first part involved 188W HPS fixtures with 144, 70 watt LED fixtures (note they don't mention how many HPS fixtures had been replaced). This project has been documented for over 4 years now. The fixtures were on a dedicated circuit so cost savings could be well documented. In energy and maintenace, the fixtures have saved the city over $13,000 per year. Note they don't say hw much the fixtures have cost or what percentage of the savings was due to energy savings. :rolleyes:

Here folks thought the fixtures were brighter (and safer) as well even though the fixtures cast 11% less lumens. So again, less light is being achieved with LED fixtures. Also noted was how LED fixtures survived a tornado and vandalism. It was also noted how LED technology has advanced since these Raleigh projects ahve started and with the new technologies, they can use less LED lamps to achieve the same effect.

BeLight magazine:

A quote from Alan Kuan (TTiC Lighting vice president);

Quote
The critical technology for downstream product is heat dissipation for electronic component.


So much for heatless lighting. Every major LED lighting device seen in these magazines has massive heat sinks.

Currently the best offer from Cree on LED lighting is a family of fixtures designed to replace linear fluro fixtures. The CR series is dsigned to have comparable output of T8s (remember the quotes from the other magazine about apparent brightness) and offer a payback of inside of one year compare to the same fixtures. The heatsinks on these things are big. Apparently aquarium enthusiasts think these are barly sufficient for aquariums, and certainly not good enough for coral growth. Despite my looking all over the web, I couldn't find a price for these units, but a lot of columns stating how wonderful they are. :g:

Another interesting element were the articles claiming that LED testing and manufacturing needed vast improvements.

So this mag did not have as much for me to play with. It was far more techincal and sales oriented thean the other and really, just a big glossy ad for LEDs.

So what am I getting at here? Several points. Real world testing of LED lighting is still in it's infancy. LED lighting is almost as good as fluorescent lighting in terms of brightness and usability. And these are for the very best, high end (read very expensive) units now available.

Some folks like to say things like NASA uses LEDs, they've advanced so far, etc. Well, the reasons why people use LEDs (like NASA or cities) is not to grow cannabis with. ;) There are other reasons for them that make LEDs compelling. But even that is still mitigated by the cost. And there are reasons to believe that LEDs are reaching a technological dead end with how bright they can be. Unless of course some very innovative technologies are developed. Which won't be cheap.

At this stage it is my opinion that LED grow lights are crap. They cost too much money and do not do the job. It's possible they may someday be useful for growing cannabis, but they are not miracle lighting units and will generate heat and use just as much electricity as an HID I predict. And those units will not come soon.

Save your money, ignore the hype and buy what has been proven to grow incredible cannabis. There are no short cuts. ;) I know, I've tried.
 
I decided to look at it from a physical point of view rather than from anecdotal reports or angry/paid forum posts.
I read it up in german so I can't post a source and also can't be arsed to translate it all.

Basicly the article states that the average LED's on the market today rank at 30-80 Lm per Watt. Some of the best in the world hit the mark of 150lm/W which (as stated there) goes into the range of HPS lights. Still those are some experimental lamps probably cooled with liquid nitrogen and all that.

Fluorescense Lights are rated at about 50-70 lm/W.
Now you could go ramble about photosynthetic effiency etc. But personally I have made my choice to not use LEDs, I guess I was blinded a bit from anecdotal reports and the science behind it seeming so logical.

I'm going to stick with U-shaped T5/T8's then. I just don't want to take the risk of running a HID in such a confined space.

source:
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leuchtdiode#Lichtausbeute
 
I decided to look at it from a physical point of view rather than from anecdotal reports or angry/paid forum posts.
I read it up in german so I can't post a source and also can't be arsed to translate it all.

Basicly the article states that the average LED's on the market today rank at 30-80 Lm per Watt. Some of the best in the world hit the mark of 150lm/W which (as stated there) goes into the range of HPS lights. Still those are some experimental lamps probably cooled with liquid nitrogen and all that.

Fluorescense Lights are rated at about 50-70 lm/W.
Now you could go ramble about photosynthetic effiency etc. But personally I have made my choice to not use LEDs, I guess I was blinded a bit from anecdotal reports and the science behind it seeming so logical.

You're right about the rambling part, seeing how lumens measure light visible to human eye not light plants can use. Trust me you definately wouldn't want to grow with a http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium-vapor_lamp low pressure sodium lamp, despite it being one of the most efficient lm/W light source there is, even more than the HPS lamps used in greenhouse grows. It's all about spectrum and I believe presice calibration of it will be the way of future. To be honest though, after reading http://www.nytimes.com/2012/02/21/s...fficiency-barrier-in-led-technology.html?_r=1 the ordinary LED lights don't suddenly seem so appealing anymore, god damn. I don't think it will take long for them to start mass-producing that stuff after a breakthrough in research and development. Better wait a year or two and buy a goddamn LED 2.0 system rather than a goddamn expensive LED system. I mean I'd want the new stuff anyway when it hits the market and the old LEDs would be practically worthless at that point... well let's just say I'm committed to my hobbies but not THAT committed (or rich). Buying the LED stuff of today would certainly help the technology progress though, it just feels like buying an old computer haha. Maybe just something little like a LED tray to keep mothers in check, to satisfy the urge to experiment :p

I too believe that the ICmag forums have quite some corruption in them, and I try to watch out for marketing ploys. Definately always check other sources before making any decisions where to put my money.
 
^ You're right about the lumens comment. PAR is pretty controversial as well for different reasons.

If I were growing in a very small confined space, I would first look at 100-150W HPS lamps. If that's too much with sufficient ventilation then I would go for a smaller CFL or T5/T8. However a 100W HPS produces less heat than a 100W CFL or T5, so the HPS would be my first option. The 100-150W HPS would fit in such a small space that I doubt many people would have trouble using it unless you're doing a micro-micro-grow. The advantage of these smaller HPS lamps is that you can buy them in non-grow shop electrical stores with electronic ballasts for very little money. Sometimes even less than a decent T5 light. The main issue with fluorescents of all types is that they can perform well in the vegetative stage but fall short during the flowering period. An HPS however has a good enough spectrum and efficiency for both the vegetative period and the flowering period.

Here's a really useful tip. If you want to see what sort of spectrum your light has, hold a CD up to and look at the band of colours. It should give you an idea of what you're dealing with.
 
I'm so pleased, I got my pollination bags in the post today. I'm planning on using them to collect pollen from some males outdoors so that I can grow them amongst the females without pollinating them.

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It saves needing to have to completely separate outdoor sites as well and it means I can just pollinate one branch easily, so it's an extremely useful thing to have.

Hoescallmesanta, your inbox is full. I tried to send you a PM but it couldn't get through so could you empty your sent messages inbox or something so that I can PM you? Thanks.
 
Right OK so I have a few questions - one which will not be able to be answered properly I'm sure due to no pictures - I will try N upload some tomorrow.

That question that cannot recieive a definitive answer yet, is "what does curling yellowy-green crispy leaves with blackish brown spots indicate?" - I'm thinking possible nutrrient burn/buildup & necrosis, but seeing as i've never actually had this happen before(I'm looking after a friend's grown while they're away), I don't know...I know I could look it up (i've seen nutrient diagnosis charts online before) - I'd just like a quick word from any of youto see if I guessed right, before I go look (just done it) on UK420.com(fucking love this website)...it's DEFINITELY not because the HID (600w) is too close.

Also, am I right in thinking that if I use water straight from the tap (warm), the chlorine in it will inhibit H2O & nutrient uptake--growth? - I read in a few places that it's best to leave the water out for around 12-24 hours before watering with it.

Some of them have distinct purpling of the stems, which I believe is from low temperature/nitrogen deficiency, and bottom leaves going yellow and dropping off, is due to them not getting enough light because of un-LST-'ed colas blocking the lower branches?

If it was me I'd either use this sparse bud for hashish production, or trim the flowers from the bottom 1/3rd of the plants, but they're not mine, so I guess I will be making hashish with this ganja.
 
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Could be nute burn but it's too hard to say without a picture, really. Chlorine in tapwater does not affect nutrient uptake and growth at all. You'll see all sorts of people saying to leave your tapwater overnight because it can affect growth or because it kills of beneficial microflora, but none of these people have probably just tried to use water straight from the tap to see if it actually makes a difference in real life, because it doesn't. I've never seen or heard of it doing so anyway - not in the concentrations that the water companies use. Chlorine is actually used by the plants in small amounts. I've never had to and have had healthy plants anyway. The only time it might be an issue is if you're brewing up an AACT or have just applied some. Here's a plant that was grown with water that's never been left out overnight at all:

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As you can see it look perfectly healthy.

When you say stems, what part of the plant are you talking about? The main stem in the centre or are you talking about the parts the leaves are attached to?

Bottom leaves becoming chlorotic indicates a possible N deficiency, but really we need to see a photo. There is no point in speculating without one.
 
I have picked leaves off 3 plants - one I haven't watered yet, due to suspecting nutrient buildup and block, but I've watered the others as I'm sure one of them was just nitrogen deficient (it definitely needed a good watering!).

This first one I'm not sure at all - just picked these off...I'm not posting up my friend's whole growroom
IMAG0032.jpg

This is the main culprit that I'm worrying about - my friend's coming back tomorrow, and I wanna flush it tonight if I have to, so she will see that I did what I should've done instead of just not watering it. The leaves are from the very top of the plant working 2/3 down. I think it's nute burn/block, but as I said before, I've never had any problems before with my grows coz I've never used artificial (organic) fertilizers on my crops, so they been modest.
IMAG0033.jpg

This one I was pretty sure was just gasping for some food, so I fed it.
IMAG0034.jpg

This first one I'm not sure at all...
 
What nutrient are you using? What potting medium are you using? Can you take a picture of a plant as a whole rather than individuals leaves?
 
Nah as I've said it's my friend's grownroom and I really don't wanna take liberties by broadcasting pics of it over the internet + it's got another 2 hours til the light cycle comes on.

Potting medium = compost w/ perlite.

Nutrient is Bio Bloom.

The plants aren't dropping or anything but the worst leaf in that pics with 3 leaves, I'd say the top 25% of the bigger leaves are all like that, and getting further down all the fan leaves are a lush dark green, a bit leathery but are covered with fucking tons of yellow spots. It's just the top 25% of the big leaves that have pale green, yellow, a ton of rusting with the ends appearing "burnt".
 
Can you not take a plant out and photograph that? Or do a closeup so that just the plant is in focus but not the background?

Anyway, it sounds as one possibility could be overfertilization that may be causing lockout. The dark green leathery leaves sounds like too much N and the tip burn would indicate nutrient burn. The middle photo of the leaf would make you think that it's not been fed enough but that could just be lockout causing that. The middle photograph of the leaf - are all the other leaves on that plant like that or do you have leaves like in the other two photos?

When you say bio bloom, which bio bloom is that? Lots of manufacturers call their nutrients Bio Bloom. If it's Biobizz, you should start using magnesium in the form of Epsoms salts immediately, but preferrably switch to a different manufacturer such as Plant Magic bloom. Biobizz are very well known for causing nute deficiencies - Mg in particular so using Espsoms salts is necessary.

When you say compost + perlite, which compost do you mean? Do you mean garden compost made from composted waste, or do you mean a potting compost? If so, which type of compost is that?
 
Thanks man - yes Biobizz. I have noticed she has already bought Epsom Salts, so she could realize she has a problem but didn't bother to tell me about it!

Errr how do I use the magnesium sulphate?

I will tell her to get a new nutrient.

The potting compost I have no idea what brand it is.

Here are a few pics I took the plant out.
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The middle picture - yeah I figured that it just needed a good feeding - N deficiency - yes all the fan leaves are like that, pretty much!
Nice one mate - mad props!
 
Thanks for posting that pic. I'm almost certain the problem lies with the Biobizz nutrient since it's well known that that nutrient causes issues for lots of people that use it. Mix one teaspoon of Epsoms salts, available at most garden centres, with each litre of tepid tapwater and spray the leaves, including the underside.

However you need to change that nutrient ASAP to either Plant Magic Bloom. In veg Biobizz fishmix works quite well I might add - their only good nutrient lol.

Just so you know, flushing the soil with water doesn't work when you're using organic nutrients. In fact, it can make problems worse, so avoid doing that in future.
 
Oh OK - I never flushed it anyways - I had it poised to sit in the bath...I'll just mix that up & spray it...I take it I shouldn't water it now until it starts to droop slightly? Or shall I water it, as I was supposed to water it yesterday with the others...

I'll make sure she gets another nutrient.

Peace
 
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